Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 103
  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244

    breaking a ring&pinion in?

    i recently installed new ring & pinions front and rear with aluminum bulkheads.i shimmed both where i had one too many shims and it wouldn't turn ,then took one out.when i spun the diff it was tight in a few spots just like everyone here has done it .went for a ride in the mountains jumps and bashing held up fine.went down in the flats to the street zipped around there but one hard stop flipped the car forward and stripped the front diff.
    took it apart sure enough front diff had 6 chipped teeth,checked rear diff had 1 broken tooth.pulled the rear diff apart took another shim !the ring & pinion had broken in and where before it wouldn't turn with the extra shim now spins fine!
    i think the ring & pinion might need to be installed and ran for a few packs then shimmed after it's broken in .
    i upgraded to aluminum bulkheads because in the last month i have replaced 4 ring and pinions that were all shimmed when new and didn't hold up.i will see how they hold up now.what do you guys think?

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Posts
    7,948
    r e m o v e d
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nhgfjrKi0o

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Rotterdam, Netherlands
    Posts
    7,868
    Are all bearings ok and is there any slop in the diff inside the bulkhead.

    Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
    Nobody is born with experience

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    No slop and everything is brand new. I am not asking if I have a problem to diagnosis. I am saying could this help someone who has bulletproofed there diffs and still strip ring gears.can breaking a ring&pinion in and then shimming it after help?

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    324
    Well I just built my front and rear ultimate hybrid bulks from FLM last week. When shimming, I tried 9 shims total at first, but it was too tight and shafts wouldn't spin. So I took one out, nice and smooth. After running twice, I noticed the clicking sound I got when my stock diffs broke. I stopped and took it all apart again. The output and input shafts had alot of play in them. Nothing broke, luckily, but I had to add 2 more shims and it was nice and smooth, solid feeling. So I guess having to re-shim after a break-in period can be normal? Mine was just the rear, the front one is still solid feeling.
    FLM EMBE P4de "Digger" Slash MT Backsl4sh Summit

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    Might be better to take it easy on a few packs then shim. We will see

  7. #7
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    121
    I try to run 3-5 packs very easy, still wished the ring gears where a lil bit tougher, I have replaced mine 3 times and have had m MERV for less than 6 weeks.

    Also 50togo thanks for ur help.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    Yep we will see how it goes

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Alma, Michigan
    Posts
    12,315
    I agree that a break in period then re-shimming would warrant a stronger mesh.
    It just makes sense... it is not like re-shimming is going to hurt anything in either case. lol
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    edmonton, alberta
    Posts
    289
    I heard that some people set them tight then take a drill to the shaft to wear them in..
    if its not broken, bash harder

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    I tried that but loosened up a bit and still broke in more on the first ride.might need power and deceleration not free rev

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    So far holding up good. I will keep on testing it

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    568
    Let us know 50. I never thought of that, I just assumed all u had to do was shim one time

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    That was the standard

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    568
    So did it work out good the way u did it

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    I am converting it for speedruns.lowering it with stock shocks with limiters ,3.2 rate springs, 100wt oil,and sway bars to be all ready for my neu 1110 1/y motor with brand new foams mounted on hpi 2196 web rims or keep it the way it is now so I can jump!

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    568
    U buying a neu? Would u consider parting with your old one?

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    i got cobra's

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    like you need it! i want to test it ,see if i can run a single battery in the mountains -jumps and bashing.don't really want dual's up there.and parallel for speed runs .i will have 2 boost 2 cell and 2 boost 3 cell just in case.

    then after the speed runs with the on road setup back to the exotek shocks and dirt hawgs for all around fun. had to find a project my merv was maxxed with regular bolt ons.
    i think i will keep the 6000kv as a spare

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    [QUOTEremoved=jimbo74;5193789]r e m o v e d[/QUOTE]removedewmovwd

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    Latest update - 6 speed runs with new combo neu 1110 1/y and mmp dual 3 cell boost and 35/45 gearing.ran out of running room but 65 MPH and diffs are holding up great!

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Rotterdam, Netherlands
    Posts
    7,868
    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    Latest update - 6 speed runs with new combo neu 1110 1/y and mmp dual 3 cell boost and 35/45 gearing.ran out of running room but 65 MPH and diffs are holding up great!
    Good to hear. I am wondering what your findings of that combo are compared to the got2gorc set.
    Nobody is born with experience

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    Hard to tell power wise I didn't run the 6000kv lowered and on foams .both motors hit over 60 easy but after 5 speed runs the mmp was 120 degrees and the neu like 110 where the 6000kv would be a lot hotter .need to find a longer smooth road for a good speed reading .the 65 on GPS had full throttle for about 2 seconds before I had to shut off

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Rotterdam, Netherlands
    Posts
    7,868
    Ok. Thanks for that info. Nice temps. Quite a price for the motor tho. I'm still looking at the Leopard 28mm motors, but those have that stupid 4mm shaft.
    Nobody is born with experience

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    Yep. I saw that when I checked them out!

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Rotterdam, Netherlands
    Posts
    7,868
    Hmm. Just found a 5-4mm bore reducer.... 5mm 48T pinions enough.... doubts doubts....
    Nobody is born with experience

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    Quote Originally Posted by Petertje60 View Post
    Good to hear. I am wondering what your findings of that combo are compared to the got2gorc set.
    the 6000kv motor made good power but any gearing over 23/45 you would have to watch the temp .
    with the neu 1110 1/y i ran 25/45 with 4" summit tires bashed one battery after another and temps didn't go over 120

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    Just did a motor test with the castle link. My 4550kv ran a 5058kv! Which makes sense the speed calculator with 27/45 on a 2 cell showed 43.6MPH and it ran 48.8
    Last edited by 50togo; 07-18-2012 at 12:55 AM.

  29. #29
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    1,206
    After i got done shimming my diffs, i was on the deck so i was barely tapping the throttle. Went to go eat dinner then i started to bash. I noticed when i gunned it up the curb it was a clicking sound.
    Do i need to add some more shims?
    Emaxx #3903, MERV
    RPM/PROLINE

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    how much driving did you do after the shimming? and was the ring&pinion new or old? doesn't sound good
    Last edited by 50togo; 07-18-2012 at 08:09 PM.

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mike-susieq1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    California
    Posts
    4,850
    i would have broke the diffs in after shimming for about a whole pack first to set the shims in first. I did this and worked out good even with a slighty damaged ring gear still (had stripped 3 teeths on it but didnt have a seal kit to replace since screws are stripped from factory). working great so far i can punch it on 2s lipo without any clicking anymore. if you drove it like 5mins first easy then went and hit full throttle then i think there is your issue. you needed to take it easy first 1 whole pack after you shimmed. open it up and take a look if there is no damage then add another shim or 2 and spin it like if you were reshimming ok if its ok then put back together and take it easy 1 whole pack if using 2s lipo ok if using nimh then about 2 packs since they dont last long thats what i used also 2 nimh's and 1 lipo for break in.
    DEU 8:18 ESV

  32. #32
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    1,206
    I realized that i put the shims on the wrong side lol.....
    So far shim 4 and 3 are gone. Down to 2. But i took a break for awhile.. will get done tonight.
    I drove around on my back deck barely tapping the throttle before i did some on road bashing. Same pinion not new.
    Emaxx #3903, MERV
    RPM/PROLINE

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mike-susieq1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    California
    Posts
    4,850
    yeah put it on the right side of the diff wont work the other way, i bought 2 packs just in case and for the front too just in case still gotta do that one.
    I'll be putting a new ring/pinion in sometime after getting back home from vacation hopefully dont have to do it up there if i break down .
    DEU 8:18 ESV

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    Quote Originally Posted by mike-susieq1 View Post
    yeah put it on the right side of the diff wont work the other way, i bought 2 packs just in case and for the front too just in case still gotta do that one.
    I'll be putting a new ring/pinion in sometime after getting back home from vacation hopefully dont have to do it up there if i break down .
    i have my front shimmed good but also lowered the brake power with my mmp to 25% .nothing will take out a front diff like a too much braking strength

  35. #35
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mike-susieq1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    California
    Posts
    4,850
    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    i have my front shimmed good but also lowered the brake power with my mmp to 25% .nothing will take out a front diff like a too much braking strength
    got it shimmed the front now took a little longer than i wanted but i cleaned and put some 60k diff oil in the front diff, it was bone dry in there. now its turning smooth and used 1 shim only i tried 2 but was just a bit too tight so i took it out and left 1. i need to change rear and open it back up again to change the screws on there. got any ideas how to take a stripped screw off there without damaging anything? i have some screws that would work for it.
    DEU 8:18 ESV

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    That would be difficult I have some craftsman easy-outs that have worked in the past but a seal kit 7080 at only 3.00 is alot cheaper if you could drill out the bolt heads which is also almost impossible without a drill press

  37. #37
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    1,206
    Use the dremel and just cut out like a flathead size on the top
    Emaxx #3903, MERV
    RPM/PROLINE

  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mike-susieq1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    California
    Posts
    4,850
    think i'll just have to pick up the seal kit and just take out the other 2 screws and somehow just spin or snap off the old seals without damaging the gears inside. i really want to get some diff oil in there 60k its real thick in the front one. i think it would help alot in the rear.
    DEU 8:18 ESV

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    i run 50k in the rear and the rear will come around with too much throttle. i think 60 would be a bit much

  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mike-susieq1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    California
    Posts
    4,850
    i dont mind the throttle i've been doing good with throttle control lately. 60k was the only thing i pick up as of late. i'm picking up some 50k shock oil as well in my next order on amain right now. i know i am missing something just not sure what. i got knuckles, seal kits x2, shock oil, bearings for steering, not sure what else i should get thats not too pricey for either my merv or emaxx. humm
    DEU 8:18 ESV

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •