Ok, so here's my first decent parachute vid. I've been playing with this thing for a few days now and since I got it sorted out it has not failed a single time. Currently my main line is a little too long which makes it pop a little slow and the chute material is way too porous, (I used a bandana) but it still works great. The video quality sucks I know but you can still see how effective this thing is. This pass was at 88 according to telemetry. It has already saved me quite a few dollars in broken parts, lol. Here ya go.....parachute on XO1... filmed with a sponge.
thats sweet man .
seems like you got to 88 pretty quick within that distance is your gears ratio setup right in the app .. would love to see this in action over 100 lol
XO-1,SLASH 4X4 ,SLASH 2WD , 2/RUSTLER
Very nice! I think you should do a write up on how to fab up one of these... because I want one on my XO1 now.
If I remember correctly, you're using the launch control switch from the 1/8 Funny Car, correct? Meaning, you've binded the FC transmitter to your XO1, correct? I really wish Traxxas would have set up the XO1 ESC settings as they did with the Funny Car.
E Revo brushless, XO-1, Nitro 4 tec 3.3, HPI RS4
Yeah, when I get a minute I'll put up some pictures and stuff about how this thing works. Kinda busy with a sprint car motor on the dyno right now but won't be long and I'll put some stuff up. Pretty simple really.
Ok, here is how to do this if you so desire. I should have taken some pictures of this as I was building it but I didn't. If there is anything that you have questions about I can take the device apart and take more pics tomorrow. First I made a small "spring tube" to house the launching spring. Next I made a cylinder to house the parachute itself as well as the launching piston. The piston itself is just a billet disc that is a very tight fit with the barrel. Probably only .001 clearance or so because I didn't want to risk getting the lines pinched between the piston and the cylinder. The piston is pushed by a spring and captured by a sliding bolt that is secured by a nut in the back of the spring tube.
Next, I used a piece of sheet aluminum to make a mount for the tube. Nothing fancy. Just bent a piece of aluminum and trimmed it to fit. Then cut a hole in it to make room for the spring to travel through. Then I welded the spring cage to the mount and the mount to the cylinder. The entire apparatus is just servo taped to the diffuser. If you crash, it just pops off with minimal damage to the parachute system. (works great, lol)
I mounted a servo as far inboard as I could and used the longest servo arm I could find. (I'm still looking for a longer one.) This will help to release the parachute as quickly as possible. I used a little welding wire slipped inside an antenna tube as the morse cable. Just zip tie it to the body post and loop the wire into the servo arm. Works great.
To activate the servo I used my funny car transmitter. Just found the channel that works the launch function and used that to activate the servo. Works perfect.
The parachute is just a bandana that I sewed the corners over until I had 8 corners instead of 4. Nothing fancy, I don't know how the heck to sew either. Octagon shaped more or less. Then I put in metal eyelets that I found at Hobby Lobby. I used thin nylon string (also from Hobby Lobby) to make the 8 chute lines connected to one heavier line that is attached to the car. I am going to make a new one that is made of a more silk like material that I believe will stop the car faster when I can find some good material.
The barrel of the launcher is wrapped in a tube of cloth that I made in the same fashion. I just put a little AB epoxy on the tube and slid the cloth on to the point I felt would work correctly. This cloth tube is cut into four flaps. THIS IS IMPORTANT. If not, the parachute will just hang in the sock and not pop out. I did have metal eyelets in this as well but they fell out due to the cheap cotton cloth. (bandana again). I'll make a better sock later but it doesn't really seem to affect it's functionality.
Next, I drilled all the way through the barrel at a point just past the piston when completely compressed. This is to hold a "cocking device". I just use an allen wrench. Push the piston all the way back and slide in the rod. You are now ready to load the parachute.
I use one wadded up napkin first for two reasons. One, to take up some extra space.....without it I felt the parachute wasn't quite getting pushed hard enough. Two, as wadding. I felt it would keep the parachute lines from getting caught between the piston and the cylinder which could lead to a failure. So far it has worked. ZERO failures. I don't know a real chute that can claim that, lol.
Now just coil the chute lines, fold the chute and put it in. Wrap the flaps around it and slide the wire through the holes. Pull the pin and the piston is released.......ready to go.
I'll try and post a few more pics tomorrow of this thing taken apart. If you have any questions about this, fire away.
Very good idea. It looks like I'll be on the look out for the Funny Car Transmitter now, lol.
E Revo brushless, XO-1, Nitro 4 tec 3.3, HPI RS4
Thats pretty neato 4 sure. Good job! Like your motor vids too. Keep on "Blowin this junk up"
XO-1, Roadrunner Slash
Very cool. Glad you posted a video on this.