Results 1 to 37 of 37
  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    49

    What is the best/strongest body for bashing?

    So I was new to this hobby until I purchased my Slash 4x4. I absolutely love it and have had a blast learning how to drive, however the stock body has not enjoyed the learning curve as much. It is still holding up for now but I would like to start thinking about what body to go with next.

    What is the best body out there for bashing?

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Sillion Valley, CA
    Posts
    462
    I have the Pro-line Monster Truck "2008 Ford F-250 Clear Body for E-MAXX 3905, E-REVO, REVO 3.3, T-MAXX 3.3 & MGT" part# 3252-00.
    It holds up very well since it's much thicker, stronger than stock body (and I guess for most of sc bodies or 1/10 bodies) since these are built for MT, which weight a ton more.
    I've it rolled multiple, countless times on parking lot and it still holds strong.

  3. #3
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    49
    Will that fit stock slash 4x4 body posts?

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Sillion Valley, CA
    Posts
    462
    You will need some longer body posts for most of the MT bodies.

  5. #5
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    49
    I have seen RPM has body posts with spacers. Think that would be enough or do I need another type of posts for the thicker MT bodies.

  6. #6
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    SD California
    Posts
    1,152
    My proline body is really thick.

  7. #7
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Davenport, Iowa Quad Cities
    Posts
    2,471
    You can make any body into a tough one just by using shoe goo and drywall tape or spray bediners. You has some great tuts.
    Thrash It, Bash it, Break it, No Regrets!!!

  8. #8
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Worcester, Massachusetts
    Posts
    1,398
    id say the jconcepts bajr, so you dont have to worry about cracked wheels wells....
    SL4SH Mamba Monster-Rustler Mamba Max 2400kv

  9. #9
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Northern Alberta
    Posts
    56
    How thick are the jconcept bodies?

    What are your thoughts on the Montana one

    sent from my Galaxy SII using Tapatalk 2.0

  10. #10
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    100
    Jconcepts are really thick as compared to the Proline bodies.

  11. #11
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    49
    I actually have a great idea if I was to coat a body in spray bedliner. I just can't decide if that's the route I want to go because I feel like it would make it very heavy.

    Does anyone have any experience with that.

  12. #12
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Davenport, Iowa Quad Cities
    Posts
    2,471
    I've seen bedliner peel and crack from hard hits. Myself I haven't used it but have seen others try it out. We tend to go to the skate park alot and I prefer the shoe goo method...
    Thrash It, Bash it, Break it, No Regrets!!!

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    El Sobrante, Ca
    Posts
    10,202
    On one of my trucks, i have the New Era roll bar. It has made the body for that truck last for more than a year! It keeps the body from collapsing and tearing out the rear body holes. I have been meaning to get one for my new truck but I keep putting it off.
    Member of the 10,000 posts club

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    468
    i grabbed a can of rustoleum leakseal spray (or something like that) from home depot a few months back and used it to coat the inside of my body and it's worked really well so far. i used aluminum hvac tape over the windows on the inside so they didn't just get blacked out, and now they're "mirrored" on the outside, it adds a nice look. the leakseal is pretty heavy so just add one or two light coats but get good coverage in the crack prone places. before you apply it reinforce your body mount holes with some drywall mesh tape and shoegoo before spraying.

  15. #15
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    49
    I think I am going give the spray a try. I will keep the coats thin so there is not too much bulk. Now I just need to decide which body. The jconcepts bajr seems like it would work for my idea but it says it's for the 2wd not 4x4.

  16. #16
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    1,463
    Will still fit mate - all 2wd shells fit the 4WD
    Time I enjoy wasting is not time wasted

  17. #17
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    1,463
    Strongest body I've used so far is JConcepts manta. Proline Flo-Tek has been good too. 14RS seems much thicker and Proline seem to have sorted out the thickness of the rear mounting area (used to break real easy but is VERY thick on the shell I've just got) - not bashed it hard yet and have shoe goo'd it - follow the "Low Maintenance Thread" to see how it holds up ;0)
    Time I enjoy wasting is not time wasted

  18. #18
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    49
    My son has a cheep little RC car. I am going to try my idea on that first just for practice. I will post it on here once I finish to see what you guys think.

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    468
    here's my bug body that i coated a while back. even after the area in the back by the motor started cracking before i applied the leakseal its still held together.

    [IMG][/IMG]


  20. #20
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    49
    I have never painted before so I decided to practice my idea on my sons cheap RC car. Good thing I did because I realized I need to spray nice thin coats and let them fully dry. Once I realized I was messing up the paint I just went with a destroyed look.

    When it comes to the Lexan body I think I will do the silver coat on the inside and black on the outside so when it starts getting scratched up the silver will show through.

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    468
    coat the inside of the body

  22. #22
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    49
    I was thinking it through and I think I can get the effect I want by keeping all of the layers on the inside. Let me know if this plan would work.

    1. Mask out and paint the red and white stripes and the N7 logo.
    2. Spray a thin layer of the black and scratch out wear spots while it's still wet.
    3. Full coat of silver to show through the scratched spots.
    4. Final coat of the black bed liner spray for durability.

    My painting skill is pretty much at 0 right now so any pointers would be awesome.

  23. #23
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    1,463
    Quote Originally Posted by joshua.himes View Post
    I have never painted before so I decided to practice my idea on my sons cheap RC car. Good thing I did because I realized I need to spray nice thin coats and let them fully dry. Once I realized I was messing up the paint I just went with a destroyed look.

    When it comes to the Lexan body I think I will do the silver coat on the inside and black on the outside so when it starts getting scratched up the silver will show through.
    McQueen without the gleam - what have you done with Lightening? Lol my sons got that RC too.

    To my surprise the Shoe Goo 14RS is holding up EXTREMELY well. My 5 year old son finds it Extremely amusing to, at full pelt, sharply turn the steering and see how many rolls/flips he can achieve. My 7 year old daughter has a real skill, she can get the truck up on 2 side wheels and drive for about 100m on 2 wheels at about 30mph - looks awesome! I have absolutely no idea how she does it (nor does she) I try and try (resulting in many roll overs lol) but can't do it for more than 5, maybe 10m. Some odd flips have sent the car 10ft in the air. After more than 10hrs of this there is not a single crack (not even a little one) on this shell. Sure it's scraped up a bit but I really can't believe nothing has cracked. Every single one of my previous shells has cracked on the first run by my kids (but the were not goo'd) so, although a bit ugly, it's fast becoming my favourite shell so far:

    Before:



    Now, after 10hrs of rolls/flips:





    Not much difference!

    Just a note, sure I read somewhere that the truck bed liner paints works better directly applied to shell because they eat up the paint otherwise - just check a bit first - would be a shame to ruin a nice paint job

    One way to get the scratch effect would be to paint the silver "scratches" first by hand, thick, then back with black (the truck liner might work like this). Another way to get a real scratch effect is to paint the inside of your lexan silver or rough silver and rust brown random patterns, then paint the OUTSIDE of the truck with your black and red pattern - when you take a bump a little black will scratch off leaving the silver below showing through. For the latter method to work well it's best to light sand the outside of the shell so the paint sticks well and then scratches, rather than flakes, off.
    Last edited by BrabusBen; 05-29-2012 at 09:05 PM.
    Time I enjoy wasting is not time wasted

  24. #24
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    49
    I would be so upset if I messed up the paint job from the bed liner. I keep thinking about how I want to go about getting the body the way I want it. Maybe for my first paint job I will just use all the proper paints. I found some great decals today so now I don't have to try and paint them on.

    For now I will clean up and repair my stock body and try the bed liner on that because I don't care how it will look.

    I ordered the BAJR body tonight so it might be a while before I get this painting done.

  25. #25
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    49
    The Lightning McQueen car was a promo one from Best Buy so it was blue and yellow. If it was the original red one I wouldn't have painted it. My son actually likes it more now.

  26. #26
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    1,463
    Quote Originally Posted by joshua.himes View Post
    I would be so upset if I messed up the paint job from the bed liner. I keep thinking about how I want to go about getting the body the way I want it. Maybe for my first paint job I will just use all the proper paints. I found some great decals today so now I don't have to try and paint them on.

    For now I will clean up and repair my stock body and try the bed liner on that because I don't care how it will look.

    I ordered the BAJR body tonight so it might be a while before I get this painting done.
    Sound like a very good idea ;0)

    To me the simple, but neat, shells always look better than the complex patterns with overspray etc (not saying that complex is bad - just it's VERY difficult)

    Patience is the secret - LET THE PAINT FULLY DRY before doing anything, also go round the edges of masks with something like the flat lid of a biro to ensure they are rubbed down fully before painting, oh, and make sure you fully clean the inside of the shell with a soapy solution then fully rinse and dry to remove any oily traces - otherwise the paint will crack off
    Time I enjoy wasting is not time wasted

  27. #27
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    1,463
    Quote Originally Posted by joshua.himes View Post
    The Lightning McQueen car was a promo one from Best Buy so it was blue and yellow. If it was the original red one I wouldn't have painted it. My son actually likes it more now.
    Lol, wonder if "rare" promo car would have been worth more in years to come (just kiddin) if your sons like mine the box is ripped to shreds and the car is bashed to pieces within a few hours of buying (never understood why my dad always said "keep the boxes" of my toys - do now lol)
    Time I enjoy wasting is not time wasted

  28. #28
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    49
    so I'm finishing up my first real paint job. the process has been exciting and stressfull all at the same time. I think it's because i try to be a perfectionist. once I'm all done I will get some photos posted on here. I will most likely just start a new thread

  29. #29
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Clayton, CA.
    Posts
    367
    Flexseal, even better.

  30. #30
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    49
    I actually used a can of flex seal to coat both sides of my stock body. it was cracked in many areas but now it's rock solid. I would use it to coat the inside of my new body but I am not sure how it will hold up over the paint. I would hate for it to crack or peel paint off.

  31. #31
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    20


    I too have the slash 4x4 and i destroyed the body after 2 weeks.I dont really care i hate the look of it anyway.However its all i had and i really liked the drywall tape idea and tried with that the as seen on tv spray on rubber it worked well but i think i used a bit too much tape and sprey cause it added alot of weight.

    What i did was spreyed a good amount on the underneath of the body put in washers over the mody mount holes ,waited like 15-20 min to set up a bit so the tape would stick.Next i put layer after of tape and keept spraying more on waiting between coats.Be careful not to put too much tape and sprey on cause your cotter pinds wont go in cause the mount stud wont stick out as far.Over all it is really durable and flexable.

    Over all it worked good and thganks to trhe nuckle guyy for your sug.

    If anybody could tell me if there different body styles for the slash i would apreciate it.I hate the look of the stock 1.

    Last edited by shakey0818; 06-07-2012 at 08:22 PM. Reason: picture link didnt work

  32. #32
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    49
    check out my other post about the N7 Renegade themed BAJR body. The BAJR is made for the 2wd version but fits great on the 4x4 if you don't mind it being smaller. The BAJR has some great lines and feels very durable.

  33. #33
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    1
    New to all of this thanks to everyone for all the knowledge shared. I will be attempting to match the orange metal flake paint job I have done to my Yamaha superjet by spraying with waterborne paint at my body shop will mix the pastic adhesion promoter with the house of kolor heavy flake then the orange next light coat. Instead of white last coat will hope someone will have an idea how to protect the finish with a white colored sealer as not to darken the color. Thanks again everyone. Of course I will not be running my slash 4x4 ' s new body until I learn how to steer and not fly off the track every 2 min. What a blast had no idea how much fun these trucks are.

  34. #34
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    99
    I took my body to line x and they sprayed it it's indestructible I love my car stays on lid and it doesn't peel or scratch I think they charged me 5 bucks

  35. #35
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    El Sobrante, Ca
    Posts
    10,202
    Quote Originally Posted by Mlw202 View Post
    I took my body to line x and they sprayed it it's indestructible I love my car stays on lid and it doesn't peel or scratch I think they charged me 5 bucks
    Did you get the inside or the outside coated? Do you have any pictures of the body? I am curious to see what you have done.
    Member of the 10,000 posts club

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    319
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRAXXAS-Slas...item5d3b91e539

    and

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRAXXAS-Slas...item5d3b91e539

    I use that combo on my stampede 4x4 which is strictly an insane hardcore basher....better than any lexan body imo. This thing has taken a beating
    Last edited by blazer; 03-13-2013 at 12:45 AM.

  37. #37
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Davenport, Iowa Quad Cities
    Posts
    2,471
    Quote Originally Posted by TRAVECKA55 View Post
    New to all of this thanks to everyone for all the knowledge shared. I will be attempting to match the orange metal flake paint job I have done to my Yamaha superjet by spraying with waterborne paint at my body shop will mix the pastic adhesion promoter with the house of kolor heavy flake then the orange next light coat. Instead of white last coat will hope someone will have an idea how to protect the finish with a white colored sealer as not to darken the color. Thanks again everyone. Of course I will not be running my slash 4x4 ' s new body until I learn how to steer and not fly off the track every 2 min. What a blast had no idea how much fun these trucks are.
    I spray a light coat then a heavier coat of faskoat the a couple coats of krylon after all the painting is done. Has worked for me. BTW great choices using House Of Kolor paints. Faskolor paints have additives that help the bonding between the lexan and paint better than other brands.
    Thrash It, Bash it, Break it, No Regrets!!!

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •