Okay, today I stared my process to seal the differential case.
I used a counter sinking bit, and followed the guide on youtube. This is the result:
Theres a tiny gap between the o-ring and the case, how ever the o-ring will be slightly pressed with a washer against the case. Hopefully it will seal then.
Since the integy case needs shimming, the seal and a washer will make it tight and nice hopefully.
Tomorrow I will order some teflon washers and 500 000 silicone oil. I dont have any "RTV silicone", how ever I have a can of Permatex liquid rubber seal (form a gasket), and Loctite liquid rubber seal (form a gasket). I think this is equivalent to RTV.
I also have other types of silicones sealants used in motorhomes, I may take a look.
Last edited by ttThree; 07-19-2012 at 06:33 PM.
i used traxxas 100K lube and it was ok. i have done about 7 diffs now. it is best to leave the diff on it's side for a day just to be sure it has no leaks.
slash revo vxl x4 rally x2 ped 2wd slash vxl rus
Okay thanks for your opinions. These days I will order some teflon washers and diff fluid, and hopefully I will seal my diff this week. I was about to do this last week but I have been away for a while.
See you soon with new updates.
tthree.. i didn't follow up . what is that O ring sealing for ? i mean what it's role ?
It seals the tiny gap between the hole and the axle. At least in theory. Im not sure how good this works but its a common mod.
thanks . When i first saw it i recall back my memory and didn't remember anything like this when i replaced my gears.
Update of today:
After some holiday and hassle I finally sealed my differential. Due to postage issues it took nearly 2 weeks to get some diff oil and teflon washers.
Packed it with some 500 000 diff oil. It was really thick.
I sealed the diff with some "Permatex form a gasket 3". Hope this will work. I may lay another layer tomorrow.
The next days ahead I will probably do some testrunning.
UM, you dont need to do all this to make it do 70? mine does 76 and all i did was throw anacondas on the back, a 3s 50c
5000mah lipo and a wheelie bar on it and i didnt have it getting airborne at all or have any trouble with it. i would race it back
and for untill the battery died topping out all almost everytime and never had it flip or anything once.
Could you go and flip my truck back over?
I think there difference is between it doing 70, and it doing 70 constantly, controllably, and with no durability issues.
Mine is controllable and durable, i put a rpm front bumper on it and went into a curb full speed and broke nothing. But now ive had mine for 3-4 months so its upgrade quite a bit, but ive never actually broken anything yet and i beat it
Last edited by Dadx2mj; 08-16-2012 at 11:12 AM. Reason: Language
Could you go and flip my truck back over?
Maybe, but there's no denying that if I was going to be using it exclusively as a speed run machine I'd rather have his extensively modified truck than a near stock Rustler
Anyway, ttThree, how did the diff work out? Has it leaked?
I dont know yet, the seal is still curing, it will take 24 hours.
76 mph bone stock is not a good idea with a rustler because it was never build for those speeds. Sooner or later those anacondas will shred. Beat the crap out of a expensive truck is just stupidity, so that statement isnt valid.
A stock rustler going 76 without getting airborne is just a sign that it never really went 76..several people claim the rustlers gets airborn at around 60. I also doubt that a stock velineon will bring the rustler to 76, that is more like 3800kv and 3s territory.
Last edited by ttThree; 08-16-2012 at 09:33 AM.
i wouldnt say the 76mph statement is invalid because there's a guy on my street who's mission was the same as yours(70mph) but he wanted to do it with minimum upgrades as possible and i've seen him hit it with half the upgrades as yours. if it's built for 70mph speeds then im sure it can handle 6 more (hence the x0-1 going well over 100mph) he told me the biggest factors are staying planted and run space and its achievable. however i would say yours would make out well if it was to flip over at those speeds so i can understand your build. but i think the "closer to stock" is the better challenge. just my opinion.
Well, this wasnt precise a challenge, since I havent got a proper gps yet. It was more of a common project, not different from others that are upgrading their rustlers. I dont think any of my projects will be close to stock, i like to mod.
There is something about knowing your truck is different than everyone elses. That's why I like to make my own parts when possible. I know that NO ONE has the same thing.
I make mods that are needed, this truck has some unique home made mods, how ever people have done similar in the past.
Let us know how the seal is holding up. I too am planning to seal the diff.
1 extended pede
1 stock length pede
Well, while done proper this mod should seal the case 100% i believe how ever in my case still some oil is ozing out in one place. I just put some more rubber seal and mounted it in the case. I dont care if i have a bit of leakage beause i use 500 000 oil and it would be much worse if i would have used thiner oil. The silicone oil some how prevents the rubber seal to cure proper. I dont know what the rubber seal is made of though, I just had it laying around.
Overall there are other mods to achieve limited slip, like the lock washer mod. Im not planning to fiddle with the diff any more. At least it is "more" sealed now than before.
FLM makes a sealed diff case out of alloy i believe, but it cost like 40 dollars, which is to much. It is as much as the whole tranny itself.
But try the mod, it is pretty cheap. You can use any kind of silicone or rubber seal I believe, just make sure the surface where you put the seal is clean. Also im not quite sure that my problem was due to the diff, how ever the car tracked a bit more straight during heavy acceleraton.
Also the rustler is pretty old chassis, I guess newer trucks from different brands comes with sealed differential from factory and performance parts.
They do a ball diff, but geez, you could get a whole kit from another brand sometimes from the price of the Traxxas ball diff. And that kit would come with a ball diff!
Yeah, ball diff requires maintanance as well, even more than a geared diff.
As turok posted if you take it off the plate and the doulble sided sticky foam put that on the chassis and put your esc on that it may come off i just superglues mine down that worked
I dont care about those videos, generally it is a very bad idea to push a stock truck to that limit. Thats why you see people complaining all the time with burnt motors, fried esc, shred tyres, etc.
I still dont believe a bone stock rustler without front weight added and not lowered will reach 76 mph. That video you refering to does not show a stock rustler, it has aftermarket taped tyres, lowered, weight in front.
My statement is still valid, no 70+ mph without front weight.
I dont really know how this contributes to this thread, because this build logg is clearly not about doing speed records with stock trucks. My truck isnt stock and it will never be stock either due to selling all original parts, so this does not apply to me.
Also, thats why people get gyros, it helps them with the driving "if they cant drive" .
Dude, when i get some new tires for my rusty ill take a vid of her doing 76, she doesnt have front weights she is just lowered a little
Could you go and flip my truck back over?
So it goes from this:
Did you even attempt to do 70mph with the truck stock or did you struggle to get past 60mph? I can't tell because you said people claim the truck goes airborne at 60mph, but it doesn't sound like you validated those claims yourself through actual trial.
No I didnt, I was never going to do stock runs. In the beginning where i refered to stock i meant the motor and esc. As I have been told, you need weight in front and lowering mod to keep the car from airborne. Simply I didnt want to test this risking to ruin my build. There arent to many 70 mph vids with rustlers that has stock hground clearance and no weight in front. How ever several vids with rustlers doing 70 with weight in front. And by weight I mean tire weights, gps, battery moved to front etc.
Alot of stuff we do and say is due to others trial and errors.
Last edited by ttThree; 08-18-2012 at 10:06 PM.
Nice thread! I recently purchased a Rustler VXL and am really enjoying it.
These days I have been doing some testruns and all I can say is that the sealed differantial along with thick fluid made the rusty to track much more straight during heavy acceleration and heavy braking.
I recommend everyone to do this cheap mod to their rustlers if they are doing a speedrun build. One might think that stock differential works well, and it does in the beginning, but due to not beeing sealed, the grease and fluid will eventually leak and you will end up with a really loose diff. This makes the rusty pull to the side during acceleration because unequal power comes to the rear wheels. By having a really tight diff, each rear wheel gets the same amount power during heavy acceleration.
Even though my diff is sealed, it isnt 100% leak-free, but it is 100% tighter and better than stock. Traxxas should have made sealed differential from the beginning, it makes a huge impact on straight line driving.
I'm playing with weight on the front of my rustler VXL. I didn't have any tire weights so I taped a socket to the front, it couldn't have weighed as much as u seem to have but idk what it weighed. All mine did was spin in circles like the weight was throwing the balance all off. But like u say, there's tons of them on YouTube. Maybe I need to experiment more.
LOL thats my car. There is a video on my channel where it went 77.9 on the same setup. I just needed more room to leave it WOT. I've since rebuilt the car and am now shooting for 100mph.
I am kinda sad to see that it has gotten this far from stock and wish the pics worked better
Chickens are for hauling.
Me too, I regret removing them because shorty after the build was done I sold everything and left the hobby. In retrospect, I think too much time and money was invested in a truck that had very limited usage.
A couple of issues with doing a "dedicated" speedrun build was the need to have a long straight road in order to make these high speed runs possible. Another issue was to keep the truck straight to minimize potential accidents, because crashing in 55-60 mph will break alot of parts. I had some issues with the truck not going straight while accelerating and that was fixed with the sealded diff case and 500k oil, but eventually the diff case started to leak again slowly.
Then there was the issue with weather, I could only use the truck on days without rain due to traction and non-waterproof esc (mamba max pro). The gearing was also pretty tall and wasnt suitable for bashing without risking to overheat the esc or motor.
I could have converted the truck to a all purpose basher but that would require new wheels (since I used the jaco foams) and new pinion. When I bought the castle system I sold the stock Velineon that was waterproof so I would have to solve that some how. But ultimatley I just got bored from doing speedruns so I went back to PC modding instead.
I have recently come back to RC hobby after 4 years and this time I will work a bit on an E-Maxx and we will have to see how that turns out hehe. I dont recommend anybody doing a dedicated speedrun build though because I think it will get boring after a few times. Even when I had my rustler I was thinking about a 4x4 basher that you could play around with being less dependant of the type of road, surface and weather. It was also difficult for the nerves to accelerate up to 60 mph, always thinking about keeping the truck straight and break properly to avoid accidents. Normaly you are alot closer to the RC while bashing so it is easiler to controll the outcome, the speed is also less so you wont break everything if crashing (if having the right parts).
A further issue was lack of gps unit so I could never get a reliable reading of my speed. I used a badly mounted outdated android phone that has varying results. It wasnt really any point anymore to drive back a forth a few times on a straight road and then let the engine cool, and after a couple of runs the acceleration and top speed gradualy got lower due to battery getting low on juice. But all builds have upsides and downsides. The positive part was that I learned a few stuff about the hobby and the negative was of course a huge financial loss even after selling all parts used.
I still question if the rustler is a good all purpose vehicle for the price. Maybe if you run on 2s with a couple of mods it can be fun. But on 3s, I really dont see any point specialy if you are going to bash around. It will be too much power for 2wd.