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Thread: My FPV Summit

  1. #641
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    Thanks you guys, I can't wait either - trust me!

    I just cut up the flashlights I ordered last year, I need FOUR but only have three - gave one away as a, "good guy cousin" move ages ago. More have been in the mail for the past week or so at least, so I'll have what I need INN TIIIME.

    Using 1" clamps, I've attached them facing forward and backward (there is a backward facing cam) as such:


    And here's how the main unit looks now, all that's missing is the main camera, the transmitter + antenna, annnd the green laser >)



    Still working on proper cooling for the laser, but that'll be soon! I redid the four side lights, they have long threaded sleeves that got in the way of the camera, so I put another .125" abs piece, and in photoshop made up a spacing guide so they were all exactly spaced. Hooray!

    Then I put the bezel plate on for that Pixim WDR camera:


  2. #642
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    you're gonna get some good attention here. Good luck on that!

    pe
    Last edited by nadineyates; 02-28-2014 at 08:13 AM.

  3. #643
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    I don't quite understand what you're saying nadineyates, but thanks for the good wishes!

    TODAY I started on the ESC up front.

    Got the flashlight power button working as planned, kinda super cool!

    I tore in to my old MMP that I had previous, "water-proofed" with some old dried up plastidip. Some advice; NEVER use old plastidip.

    It didn't peel off, it snapped off. The case is in 400 pieces now, and the plasti-dip hurt the board!

    Here it is coming off:


    I did a once over, and found this:




    Re-wired the receiver output (3 pin servo wire, for throttle control) and the power switch wiring. I removed the fan, it NEVER came on since owning it, and it gave me room inside the box anyway.

    Held my breath, powered it on, no beeps! .. wait NO beeps! The thing wanted to be hooked up to a motor first, once that was done, no problem! I Had a bunch of LED flasher boards hooked up to the receiver, and when I unplugged it smelled burning electronics - kinda scared me, but I'm positive it was the led flashers not the ESC.

  4. #644
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    The motor does the beeping...

    I use Corrosion X to waterproof... less messy and can be soldered through and re-coated if needed.

    Hope you are right! I imagine ESC's are more pricey than LED flashers. lol
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  5. #645
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    The beeps also tell you how many cells you have though! I always here, beep beep beep beep as four cells.

  6. #646
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    Did the wiring up for the front and rear lights, and the camera drive lights.

    TONS of light coming from the front, like highbeams on a 1:1 scale car!




    The camera lights look pretty awesome when they're all lit up too!


  7. #647
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    Once all the lights are running - Rear red, three front facing white, and four front facing camera whites, it's 12v @ 440mA total. Not the GREATEST but certainly not bad at all!

    Camera lights total 70mA
    Rear light is only 40mA
    Front lights 330mA

  8. #648
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    I bet you will fry any bug flying in front of it, with that amount of light! that is coool!
    Summit RX8/1550kv-Slash4x4 MM2/2400kv Twin-V Merv.

  9. #649
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    You sure you didn't spend any time with Nasa...you know or maybe Area 51 ...black ops projects...lol stunning work on this project.


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    they have tried

  10. #650
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    Naaa, he is from outer space! Only aliens can have floor like that at home!lol!(joking about the floor!)
    Summit RX8/1550kv-Slash4x4 MM2/2400kv Twin-V Merv.

  11. #651
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    Hahah this stupid floor!

    Years ago we recorded a tornado coming at us, ran through the house to the other side to see it, and as we did the camera showed the floor. The video ended up on all the news channels (only ones stupid enough to record the thing) and people kept calling, "I SAW YOUR FLOOR ON TV!! I KNEW IT WAS YOU!" hahah.

    ANYWAY.

    No time at NASA, just too much time in front of my computer on eBay! But thanks =)

  12. #652
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    I understand the Area 51 stuff is still classified and can't be discussed...lol


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  13. #653
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    Clearly you don't understand my inability to speak or be spoken to in regards to said Area 51! :P Hahaha

    TODAY I've printed my first 3D printer part for the build. The walkie talkie speaker is too quiet inside the speaker box, so I wanted to cut a hole and put a "grill" over it.

    Built said grill in 3D:


    Printed it out, in this picture you can also see the DC to DC converter I'm using for the walkie - 12v down to 3.7v. When power is applied - through a receiver switch - the walkie will turn on!


    And size/fitment:




    Printed with PLA material. (like ABS, but hippies like it, and better for printing in my opinion.) Unfortunately I don't have BLACK PLA. For testing purposes it's more than adequate though!

  14. #654
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    Wow, soon you will be approached by traxxas to feature this build, its mind blowing
    What 3d printer are you using again, were you able to print very heavy duty parts....they still range in the 5k range for a decent one right ?
    Live life to the fullest

  15. #655
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    Hah, that'll be the day!

    $3000, Cubify's CUBE X printer.

    Was the best at the time I purchased it - a year ago almost - and I haven't used it very much at all. It's not the QUICKEST thing, and not good for details, but I'm extremely shocked at how strong the parts are! I don't like building with ABS because it warps weird and doesn't stick to itself nicely - parts lift up and screw up the build - but PLA so far is my fav! The two main types of 3D printing are ABS and PLA.

    Regardless, I've tried to stay away from building everything with the 3D printer, and I'm glad I went the Servo City route as it's all as strong and lightweight as aluminum and threaded parts are FAR nicer than plastic! =)

  16. #656
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    yeah I saw the servo city options. thanks to your build I came across it, in fact I will be using lots of their stuff to for my build.
    cannot wait to see the video of you build....
    Live life to the fullest

  17. #657
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    May be someday i will do some thing like that! But for now i have enough projects running and starting( snowplow, snow blower, lawnmower...) If you see what i mean! But FPV on the lawnmower could be integrated!(Would be cool to do the lawn sitting in a sunchair with some adult brevages!)
    Summit RX8/1550kv-Slash4x4 MM2/2400kv Twin-V Merv.

  18. #658
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    Did a bunch of testing and wiring today.

    My backup transmitter arrived today, 700mW vs the 1000mW that I've been using.

    Re-wired both of them with easy disconnects, and got some testing done.

    I wired up the reverse camera using one of my DC to DC converters - the camera wants 3.3v I'm giving it 12v.

    My desk is a disaster again!



    This is the size of the reverse camera:


    This is it mounted:



    The two transmitters:



    The transmitters are identical in size, the one that is open is the Lawmate 1.2ghz one.

    They are both "1.2ghz" but the new one is 4 channel - one of which my lawmate receiver picks up, 1080mhz - and the Lawmate transmitter is 8 channel.

    I go between channel 1 & 8 on my receiver to pick up from both of them.

    Lots and lots of soldering tiny wires today, but it all worked out!

    I ran the lawmate 1watt transmitter without a heatsink for about 10 minutes, OOOOOPS! Seems fine though, but that's probably the DUMBEST thing you can do when working with one.

  19. #659
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    After playing around a bit with the cameras, I realized I still need a microphone!!

    I was planning on using those original smaller cameras from the start of the build:



    But then I ended up getting better and better and better cameras until eventually those two turned in to, "heh THOSE peices of junk.... but they still work!"

    They have a microphone built in to their boards, they are 480tvl, ir sensitive (good for night vision) and auto white balance etc....

    Sooo, I've decided NOT to use the uber cool micro camera for the rear, and instead use one of the original 480tvl guys!

    Fits, JUST fits!



    Now I have all three cameras installed, it's finally coming together, but I'm calling it quits here for the night before I wreck something!


  20. #660
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    Came up with some mini y-adapters, super cool:



    Did some testing with various microphones for the FPV, and wired up a stereo jack, now I can just put any stereo/mono mic I want in to the system!



    Worked on mounting the transmitter up top. Lots of hurdles there, but once it was all figured out I think it's great! The ISSUE is....... the 1000mW lawmate gets a tad TOO hot for my liking even with this huge heatsink on it. I know that when I'm driving it would be just fine, but it still gets VERY hot and I'm not a fan of electronics being hotter than they need to be:




    Sssssooo, I've mounted a fan on top, not sure I like it, it's very much vertically larger than I want, but it certainly does the trick. It's a 5v 240mA fan, I modified it and it's only 90mA now @6v silent, but does the trick perfectly.





    Then after messing around, I took this video:


  21. #661
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Questions:

    1 - For those Y adapters... what header pins did you use?
    I think this would be a great way to reduce bulk in my next project.

    2 - How did you mod a fan to use less current at more voltage?
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  22. #662
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    Haha I swear, when I posted those y's, I thought "I bet this'll turn Jimmie's crank!"

    Just double row header pins! Nothing fancy =)

    As for the fan, I put a 20ohm resistor on each lead +/- and it did the trick, just ONE got too warm, but with two it's perfect. 6v only because that's what my CC BEC is set for.

  23. #663
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Spacing?
    And are they scored to be reduced to 2 pin?
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  24. #664
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    Same spacing as the servo connectors, whatever they are!

    I don't know what you're asking, but it was just these, double row header pins cut at every 3..


  25. #665
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    I just realized my second question was a silly one.


    Does the connector fit both ways? but leaving the signal unattached?

    Sorry for the bother...
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  26. #666
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    I'm not positive, but it most certainly SHOULD fit - you mean vertically instead of horizontally for instance?

    No bother at all, the whole purpose of this thread is so others can learn something!

  27. #667
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    Right, vertically instead of horizontally.

    Cool... I'm ordering some now!
    This will reduce the clutter in my Rx box for sure!!
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  28. #668
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    Good stuff! They have 3 and 4 thick and on and on! Right angle and so fourth.

  29. #669
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    I have a row or two of single right angle... I don't know why it never occurred to me to try double or even triple row.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  30. #670
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    Will have to get Jimmie to translate that into layman's terms or for an electrical inapt person LOL.

    Real nice work Krall, I keep fallowing this project but at times you lose me which is not really hard to do.
    Endeavoring to persevere !

  31. #671
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    Hehe as long as it's only SOME TIMES!

    Something strange with testing today;

    I took an RSSI signal from my receiver ages ago, put it through a circuit and feed that in to my OSD. The OSD reads it as RSSI but it's really just signal strength from the 2.4ghz TX/RX which for me is far better. It basically says, 100% strength beside each other, and 0% when I turn it off. So I can tell how far I can go before I'll lose signal. Not bad!

    HOWEVER, 1.2ghz video transmitters are supposed to interfere with 2.4ghz radios. I bought a low pass filter, and have never had issues.

    Today I put the 700mW 1080mhz transmitter near the receiver 12 inches away, and 100% signal. 8 inches 80%, 2inches 30%, and when I put it RIGHT beside, the transmitter went in to failsafe 0%. Then I put the low pass filter on, annnnnd I got no video at all. No idea why, so that was a bummer.

    So then I went to the 1.2ghz (1280mhz channel) and put it near the radio, and it had ZERO affect! Signal strength didn't BUDGE! WITHOUT a low pass filter! So......... what on earth!?

    No real issue, the receiver and transmitter don't affect each other based on how close they are on my build, but it's still a technical mystery as to HOW this could happen.

  32. #672
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    ( hmm, something seems to be wrong with that low-pass filter.. seems it cuts frequencies that it should not cut, at least )

    I would like to congratulate you from here !!!

    I was especially amazed with the hard word you have done with the 3d modelling!

    I am really happy to see all this project finishing ! IMHO, this was very important - avoid to get lost in all this complexity and lose the final target !

    I have a little proposal, since this thread is huge, if you could save a little time to make a sort of final reference to what has finally been used (in case of FPV hardware and not only! ), since this information is spread among a huge amount of info !

    Warmest wishes for good luck and soon finishing the project !!!

  33. #673
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    I'm super glad that you're getting in to FPV!

    Thanks for giving the thread a read-over, you and I are BOTH waiting for a final parts list though!

    In SHORT, I'm using:

    Two 4s 5000mah 25c batteries for driving either a 2100 or 2350kv motor (not sure on that yet) through a castle MMP esc.

    I will be using the full voltage for the drive.
    12v for the lighting and cameras and video transmitter.
    6v for the three receivers and all servos.

    Castle 10A BECs are giving me power to the three receivers - not positive on using one for rear two and one for camera or not. The steering servos are super strong, and need lots of power.

    Then I am using some eBay sourced DC to DC (just like the Castle BEC but tunable above 9v) converters for the 12v equipment.


    ORIGINALLY I was planning on using a Traxxas 1400mah 3s battery, but unfortunately it's just not powerful enough. Makes charging things quicker too, in the end I'm going to use only the two drive batteries both reducing wiring, AND weight.

    I am using three cameras:

    27x Optical zoom 0.0001lux camera (SUPER sensitive in the dark, don't even need IR but will use it for range and clarity) will be used for the main drive, centered on the turret.

    PIXIM Seawolf WDR for secondary drive camera, WIDE DYNAMIC RANGE allowing me to drive directly in to the sun and still see clearly without the sun washing it out.

    480tvl REAR camera for quick rear-view capability, since the pan takes about 1.5seconds to turn all the way around, I can just hit a switch and look out the rear immediately.

    The video transmitter is a 1000mW Lawmate V1 transmitter (V2 is out, and better audio quality and less heat and weighs less, but I've modified mine to be better than both V1 and V2)

    Lawmate 8 channel 1.2ghz receiver.

    I'm using three 6-channel 2.4ghz radios to control everything. I am using SunHans 2000mW wifi boosters from ebay, with SMA extensions from both the radio circuity TO the amp, and then from the amp to their antennas. On the car, I've modified the three receivers to accept SMA connections and antennas. ONE of the receivers has been modified to output signal strength to my OSD - was a big project, cannot explain it I apologize!

    The OSD - On Screen Display - is what I figured BEST for ground use. Lots of people have mixed feelings about it, but it is an EZOSD from Immersion RC. SUPER quality, and shows speed, power consumption, battery voltage, distance, signal strength and direction to vehicle! It's all GPS.

    The car itself is two Summit chassis cut roughly in half, joined in the middle as per the pictures previous this post. The wheels and tires came as a package, big joes - kind of want to change them out to larger tires, we'll see how that goes.

    All in all the FPV portion consists of three cameras, a camera switcher, 1.2ghz video TX/RX and all running at 12v.

    You can find a $16 1.2ghz video transmitter at 700mW, a $30 1.2ghz video receiver, and a $10 camera all on eBay. That would be your FPV! Costs VERY little. Then if you want to add pan and tilt, you'll need more servos, more channels on a remote to control it properly, and a BEC to handle the extra servos.

    The price range goes up and up and up and up and up the more you do, the more quality you throw at it!

    As you can see I've gone through a lot of, "versions" of this throughout the past couple years as I've been building it, but I finally threw the towel in this year and said, " Just spend the cash and do it right" and I'm in the thousands now after everything is said and done. Eek!

  34. #674
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    Quote Originally Posted by krallopian View Post
    " Just spend the cash and do it right" and I'm in the thousands now after everything is said and done. Eek!
    That reminds me of a statement an old friend of mine used to tell me when I would get the urge to build and/or tinker with something "Learning can get expensive" as you have found out.
    Endeavoring to persevere !

  35. #675
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    Krallopian it is a great great sum up what you wrote!

    I m more than thankfull now! I really believe that this can help also your summing up in the end, and will be very usefull for the next readers of the thread - and also current ones! Maybe a link in the 1st post to the final list, later when completed, be a nice idea too.

    To be honest for many of the applications you have made i have only tried to follow up generally! I mean i.e. I do understand what's done, but may miss some of the how-to. I know that I will learn a lot more in practice, but you have already given me very good general gudelines that I can follow!

    I m sure about that, as I m sure that I will meet many and even silly obstacles at the beginning, i.e missing a cable or the power for something etc ! But that's part of the joy too lol !

    After all as you also state many times it's the joy of personal try and creativity that matters, like the 'road to Ithaki' where the way matters more even from the final target.. that's even life haha !

  36. #676
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    I agree that's a very good idea!

    Glad I could help you George, very glad indeed =)

    TODAY has been another very long day of wiring and testing.

    I re-wired the Castle MMP with new wires and connectors.

    Did a test the other day and smelled burning, it turns OUT I had the castle BEC hooked up as WELL as the main battery, ooooooops! ESC still works today no issues, so that's a massive relief!

    I re-wired my batteries to use black XT60 connectors from ebay, lookin good now!

    I re-wired the pixim cam so it's just using a servo wire now, instead of it's factory 10 pin connector. Much more room.

    Got my charger put back together and just NOW finished charging the second drive battery. They both took 2400mah in to them and stopped at 16.79v each.

    My CASTLE LINK drove me nuts for an hour today. I got some beepers that when you press a button on the joystick it makes it beep, but at 6v as my castle BECs were set to, they malfunctioned. I had to reprogram them to 5.5v or less, and of my 16 usb connections on my computer, only ONE finally worked, "You need to update your USB adapter for castle link to work" and now they all work, what a mess! So I reflashed them to 5.5, and went through all the settings on the MMP again. Everything is looking good!

    The wiring for all the power has gone through a massive re-work today as well. Going to run both batteries through 12 gauge wire in to a 10 gauge pair that runs up to the front of the car to the esc connecting through two 6.5mm barrels.

    I re-wired my older 2100km motor today forcing the wires out the BACK of it instead of towards it's front. Installed THAT instead and it looks better silver instead of the old black and reddish/pink one at 2350kv. My COOLER doesn't fit the motor nicely though, going to look at some options there.

    For NOW I'm calling it quits, been a long day - have I said that yet? - and don't want to rush in to anything else.

    Exxxxcept maybe the audio jack for the camera mic, annd maybe the wiring to the top turret annd well .. enough

  37. #677
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    Well ended up doing the mic jack!






  38. #678
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    Worked on the ESC wiring today.

    Headache!

    I had to lengthen the motor wires, but it's all worked out!

    Here it is mounted:



    Here's that LASER! Laaaaaaser:


    The laser is also mounted in the ESC box, facing the front, through that hole. Haven't hooked power up to it yet, need to reposition it's control board to make more room inside that box - bit too tight for my liking.

    THEN I wired up the power switch!

    FOrtunately I had 3 lights to test. First one I smashed the switch. Second one the switch came apart and all 10 pieces went ... I swear they teleported away. The LAST one I finally got out intact, soldered up some leads, plugged it in annnd:


  39. #679
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    Absolutely loving this build and happy to see it all come together!


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  40. #680
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    Hey krallopian... I have a question for you but I cannot ask it here, because it is not a Traxxas vehicle, but more about electronics. PM me if you can please,


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