Hahah yeah that 'Merican wasn't supposed to be there... it was from some Alchemy testing I was doing hahaha, OOPS!
Yeah there's a lotta work ahead, but I'm really excited to get to it. I'm not building anything until I have it all. I have mentally wired it 1,000 times, and so far there is no issue. Biggest concern was with the Ammeter reading MONITOR/SYSTEM current.. but that's been figured out.
Spacing is no issue, and I'm going to have three main terminals, a zero rail, 5v and 12v rail inside. I'm plannnnning on using terminals on the edges of the main platform board, so that when I open it there is only one giant disconnect - similar to a PCI power connector on a computer.
The transmitters will all be separated;
Switches/Knobs/Joys will all be hardwired to the main computer parts of the transmitters, and then wires to the antennas will be run up to the top of the case to their transmitter (it's nice, my TX has the actually transmitter as a separate board) then through ipex out the top as in the diagrams.
I have collected so many bits and pieces over the past few months, that I have every connector and wire and jumper etc that I could possibly use! I also just received 200 m3 nylon locking nuts ($1.50) and another 100 M3x10mm screws to put it all together with for a dollar and something. MUCH better than these RC Hobby stores asking for $5 for 4 screws haha.
Thanks for showing interest, Mayberry - I've said it before; peoples interest/excitement is my biggest push in doing all of this! *cheers
Got some more parts in today, ipex cables and the relay board.
First up, modify my transmitter by installing an ipex connector, and using one of my new 2.4ghz antennas:
The original antenna was just directly soldered to the board:
Flip it over, and a nice smooth surface to solder the ipex to:
These things are so tiny, talk about hard to handle! (my silver Penny!)
Took it for a spin, and it worked great! The issue is, I didn't have my rear steering servo powered, so the rear wheels were all over the place hahaha, trying to drive straight was impossible. No biggy, the point was to see that range wasn't reduced, and it certainly wasn't! Too dark to carry on testing, but tomorrow I'm going to do the same thing for the receiver, and have a typical 2.4ghz antenna coming off of it.
The relay board was ordered before I found HeyOK and Al's skills have shown I don't really need this thing. The idea was to use this to turn on and off high power devices with my low power receiver board. Obviously the receiver board can't switch on and off 12v at 10amps, so I was going to use a receiver switch to switch the relay, which itself would switch the high current devices. It's pretty small, a tad bigger than I expected, but here:
8 Nicely soldered 10amp relays, with connectors, status leds and easy-access switch pins:
This is it just placed on my summit chasis (it's in pieces, and wires everywhere I know I know, testing)
Last edited by krallopian; 11-14-2012 at 04:31 PM. Reason: Removing brand name..
What a small connector! Do we get to see the after photo?
Yeah, when I soldered it the first time I then measured it to make sure there was no short, BUT there was a short. After unsoldering it, I found it was still shorted!? Pulled up an rf schematic and it turns out it IS shorted, to DC at least, but not RF. Go figure! So I RE-soldered it and bingo worked even though my multimeter says shorted haha. Learn something new everyday.
After 150 tries to get this page to LOAD, I finally have links to the AFTER pics :P
After the second solder:
After connected to a 2.4ghz antenna through the ipex:
In that second pic, the rf board isn't even mounted correctly, it's just showing the complete connection.
On my ground station, I will have that rf board up top behind the monitor, and the ipex connect from IT, to a hole in the top with its SMA connector (it's an ipex to sma adapter) and then the antenna just connects to the SMA. Being mounted on the top of the case as per my design, it allows the transmit antennas to be at least a couple feet higher than if I were holding it. In early range tests, I just had the remote down on my deck railing horizontally, and the car was able to glitch-free go much further than my other radios have allowed it to. So being higher, and the correct position (vertical) I have no doubts of range being an issue.
I WILL have three transmitters side by side by side, but in early tests with my first 10-channel TQ/TQI remote, having the two transmitters close to each other didn't seem to have any affect at all on performance.
Crazy soldering skills!
Awe shucks! Nah, it's all in the soldering tip! Nice and tiny solder tip for that job - at about 750° for a quick heat up.
Thought u might enjoy my robots and control unit
Geeeeeeeeeez! YOUR robot, as in you made that?
I can't get over how similar the layout of that controller is! The joysticks, the power switches, the squared off areas... pretty awesome! I bet mines faster :P Hahah Very cool, thanks for sharing!
I got some goodies in the mail today, going to throw some pics up in a bit.
Haha I wis I could build one half as good as yours this is an EOD bot it's part of my team gear lol it's pretty quick for how big it is prolly around 10mph
Hahah thought so! I didn't want to assume though, still... totally cool!
So here's all the goodies that showed up today! POWER SUPPLY, YAAAY FINALLY! 12mm offset hubs, and the HeyOK Steering Computer and light switch!!
I couldn't figure out how to take the wheel hubs off, and then blamo: GRUB SCREWS
The cars left side (right side in this pic) has the extenders on, you can see 12mm on one side makes a difference!
........ while testing, this happened:
......... dunno why! There aren't any instructions for installing these things, and I think I've ruined one.
Basically you take off the stock hub, slide the new one... then slide a screw inside and tighten it down and then put the wheel on. That's about all there is to do? Then the wheels fell off haha, that one first, and then when I grabbed the front right wheel to pull it towards me, it just... fell off too! Anyone have these things installed, and know how to make them........... not fall off?
After looking at the way they are supposed to be installed to the car, I realized that it's... wrong! There's no WAY they can stay on the car... I'm going to have to put some lock washers and some locktite to keep them on there. Oh hwell!
In OTHER news, here's the first test of the HeyOK (before the wheels bailed) I basically just... hooked it up! No config or anything, and it's on a STICK channel, so I couldn't make the crab steering work, I don't have any 3-way switches right now soldered up.
Sorry about the quality, I recorded it sideways on my phone, so I had to zoom it in to fill up the sides.
looks good so far this will be one mighty cool summit. one of a kind for sure.
Mountains cant stop me
they have tried
So today I said, "the heck with it, I'll just MAKE them work" and have made the hub extenders.. work!
They were made for the axels that have the PIN that keep them on, not the screw, you can see here the silver is the new one, the blue is the stock one:
So I just lined it up, measured the holes, and made my own, and luckily all four lined up well enough and fit just snugly enough! So I once again have properly installed hub extensions.
I've started wiring up some basic tests on my remote: Converting the sticks to 3-way switches. Long story short, it isn't working!
For some reason, when I wire up a 3 position switch (on-off-on) to replace the LEFT & RIGHT stick, it turns off the remote! I don't know why!
I was worried the steering computer wasn't working, but it's just that my remote is strange. This isn't good, because I have a lot of on-off-on switch uses on my case! I'm sure I just need to eat breakfast, but.... it's 4pm so that can't be it hahaha.
Anyone ever experience this with 3 position switches?
When I do this, I lift off the wire that normally goes to the wiper of the pot and solder it to the arm (usually the center terminal) of the toggle switch. The two outer terminals of the toggle get soldered to the two wires that are on the pot. One to one end, one to the other.
This will let the toggle switch connect the signal line to one end of the pot or the other. Normally this is something like +5v and Ground. You mentioned that this is a three position toggle so one would assume that when the switch is in the middle position, the arm of the switch is now "floating" or disconnected. What needs to be happen now is to create a voltage divider so that the arm is at 1/2 the voltage that was normally across the pot. To do this, you connect two resistors of equal value to the center terminal of the switch and the other end of one resistor to the top terminal of the switch and the other resistor lead to the lower terminal of the pot.
I'm too lazy to draw this so I hope my description was okay!
*** as I was writing this post, I saw that you replied and it's exactly what I was writing! Thanks Al **
Turns out I just needed some resistors across the switch.
Using Two 2.2k resistors across the switch, it works perfectly! The HeyOK didn't like dead center though, so I had to program a bit of subtrim in to the controller, and voila! OFF, CRAB, 4WS! Very exciting.
Glad to see you got it hooked up and working.
Probably explains why I tend to walk in circles when I'm not watching where I'm goingThe HeyOK didn't like dead center though, so I had to program a bit of subtrim in to the controller...
Just a tip - probably doesn't matter, but when you are using a double pole switch and only need half the contacts, you might want to jumper across them so that you are using all the contacts. The idea is that it will be more immune to noise and / or last longer.
Neat, never heard of that before!
I'm actually using these switches though to power the status LED's on the ground station, that way when I turn on 4ws a little LED lights up beside it so that I know that it's activated - the throw on these mini switches is very short.
Good idea using them for status!
I've re-wired the switch so that it does:
CRAB, OFF, 4WS. By default the controller is OFF, CRAB, 4WS which makes sense IMO, but for the design of my ground station I've spaced it all out to be 2.5v, 0v, 5v instead of 0v, 2.5v, 5v. Using a triple pole 3 position (on off on) switch, I will be able to do what I need, and power the led's to show status.
For those curious, I asked Al via email and he responded with:
So, right now we have
5V = 4WS
2.5V = Crab
0V = OFF
Wire you switch to these voltages in the order you like.
Let's call the terminals on the switch 1, 2 and 3
2 is the center terminal
Make a voltage divider from 2 of 2K2 resistors. Connect the center of those resistors to pin 1 of the switch
Connect pin 3 of the switch to ground.
Now the weird part. Connect the wire that went to the pot's wiper to a 2K2 resistor and then connect the other end of the resistor to pin 2. Connect a 10K (might need to be 20K) from pin 2 to pin 1. What this will do is make the sensor wire 5volts when the switch is in the middle. Then because it is a fairly high value of resistance, it shouldn't swing the voltage too far off when the switch is flipped to 4WS
This way if anyone in the future wants to do what I've just done, you now know how to do it, else you can ask him to send you a custom firmware one for a few bucks more I'm sure!
Here's to hoping I receive my extra steering assembly tomorrow, and extra shocks so I can start loading up the Summit with all the gear and get something happening!
I've changed the design from SEPARATE batteries for the monitor and system now, it used to make sense to me when the batteries were inside the case, but now that they are external, I'm not worried as much (plenty more power to work with) and so I've changed the upper part of the system:
I will still have a temp gauge in both the top and bottom halves of the case. Doing things this way (1dc in, instead of two separates) also helps simplify the current readings and reduces the amount of wiring within the case.
I've just replaced the RX antenna, with my custom ipex - SMA - 2.4ghz antenna, and it works excellent! I have only range tested it to about 90 feet so far (wet and cold outside and I don't feel like putting everything back together right now) but it certainly seems to be happy with it.
There is less support for the ipex connector on the receiver board though, there is about a total of 3.5sq mm of solder holding it in place, unlike the 5-6sq mm on the transmitter. No biggy though.
Now my car will have the same style antennas mounted on them, that the transmitters have coming off the case!
Also, I've decided to change the power switch from PRIMARY and BATTERY to, PRIMARY & BACKUP.
This way, I have three modes of power:
Primary is either AC-DC in, OR Lipo In (no matter what, it's 12v in) OR I select BACKUP which will be one of those 2300mah 12v batteries I have that are nice and small, and really only weigh about a pound or so. Whenever AC is brought in to the ground station, the 12v battery will be charged up. So I will keep the two power inputs, one will be battery in that powers ONLY the system, no charging, and the other will be the AC-DC in which powers everything, AND the Traxxas Charger, AND the automatic charging of the 12v lead-acid.
SO if I'm out in a field (unlikely) and my wall adapter can't reach........ annnd my 10,000mah battery pack dies, then I switch to BACKUP power, which will provide more than enough control/seeing power to get my car back to me in one piece.
Last edited by krallopian; 11-19-2012 at 04:10 PM.
Lol...I haven't read this thread like a week and have a lot of updates.
Looking nice krallopian
Hahah, yeah there's all kinds of things being changed. I should change the title to, "Concept Designs for an FPV Summit" instead of the current title.
Right now I'm trying to track down a pretty looking 8 position connector, so that I can plug in a hand-held controller. Instead of using the ground station controls to control the truck, I would "jack-in" a Traxxas controller and just use it - for the trigger/wheel function is much better driving a car than is a stick. It will be nice to have the option, and just a switch to change between controls.
The handheld won't need batteries or a radio & antenna inside, so it will be as light as anything - some playdo might fix that - and I will have all six functions:
Steering Style Select
I'm thinking of using a DIN connector, like the one oldskool mice & keyboards used to use. The style I WANT is about $12 each connector, so that's a plan b if it comes to it.
If I find the connector, I'll end up customizing another Traxxas controller, replacing the stickers with some custom vinyl or something to make it more, "project specific."
The controller will be carried in the battery case, as to keep everything easy to manage and on-hand.
The DIN sounds nice looking. I'd be tempted to go cheap and use a 9 pin D connector.
Yeah I've decided to go with this guy:
That will be on both the joy stick and the box, then I will make a male to male connector between'm. Keeps the size down, makes it easy to connect/disconnect and it keeps the over-all design consistent.
I still have to make certain that my joystick will allow me to common all the positive and grounds to their respective signals. Right now EACH channel in the transmitter has its own three wires going to them, but visually it looks like it will work when I common them all.
I'm now just trying to find a switch that will switch all 8 wires though!! :\
Last edited by krallopian; 11-20-2012 at 03:54 PM.
Why can't they be hooked in parallel?
Or am I missing something...
Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.
I believe they would offset each other..
impossible to type on this phone.
Pede 4x4 PE - Slash 4x4 PE
Miss Geico Boat
Off to the hobby shop I go.
I got THIS in the mail today!
It's something Al from HeyOK made custom for me: Channel Expander
It's not like those other ones you see where you cycle through features on a channel, this one allows ONE channel to control five separate functions - in my case, ZOOM IN, ZOOM OUT, FOCUS NEAR, FOCUS FAR, MENU button.
Here's a quick video from his page showing ONE channel, with five different switches lighting up leds showing that they are working:
I'm going to go wire it up now, and will hopefully get a running video in a little bit.
Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.
I wasn't able to work on the camera controller today, I had to be....... social!
Now that I've finished doing that, I came home to work on the design for the External Joystick connect:
I can't find any SIX pole double throw switches, so I've decided to just use TWO 4pdt switches to switch between internal and external controls. I have one switch for the basic FWD/REV LEFT/RIGHT controls (2 pins) and another switch for, DIFF 1, DIFF 2, TRANSMISSION, and STEERING SELECT (4 pins).
This way I can grab the controller and just... drive basically with it, or if I want to use total control from the handheld I hit the second switch and those controls are now switches over.
Not sure how the radios will like the quick switch from controller to controller, testing will have to be done - but I just ordered the 4pdt switches 5 minutes ago, so THOSE tests won't be done for a little while.
Either way, after about 5 design ideas, I think this one will work best. It will be mounted on the same side (left) that the power comes in to, and again... the joystick will have an 8-pin DIN connector on IT, and a cable will be made to go between the controls on the joy, to the case itself plugging in to the DIN connector in that picture.
Oh man........ been a long day! I just realized those are KNOBS not SWITCHES!! Hahah, either way.. I have knobs and rotary switches - EUGH why did I bother ordered more switches!! Hahaha
AND now that I think of it, I won't be able to power those leds with the rotary knobs OR the switches..... uh yi yi!! Sleep is my only option I guess.
Last edited by krallopian; 11-22-2012 at 12:41 AM.
Have you considered using a toggle switch to control a couple of four pole relays to take care of switching all the lines at once?
Yeah that was actually the first solid idea, but I wanted to come up with something "smaller" and less power-hungry than using three relays. First was the ONE switch, than was two switches - one for just steering and drive - but then I wanted status LEDs and when I made the second switch I figured, "status leds, hooray!" and then posted here realizing I didn't even HAVE switches in the design, THEN that I couldn't even power the leds with just two switches anyway haha.
SO, I think it *IS back to the relays idea - I have a ton of 4pdt tiny ones, it's just a matter of finding them from their projects going back over five years.
What I'll do is still have two switches, one will control two relays, the other will just be a direct connect - that will give me the design symmetry seen in the above picture keeping things basically the same.
Last edited by krallopian; 11-22-2012 at 12:11 PM.
After some seaching:
Tiny!! I'll only use two of them, four signals switched in total: Diff1, Diff2, Transmission, 4ws. The Steering/Throttle channels will be switched by the physical "DRIVE" switch itself, no need for relays.
Today was a great day for deliveries! I got about $150-200 worth of shipments today!
First and foremost, the BATTERIES! 5000mah each, they're pretty big! WAY smaller than 5000 lead-acids, and less than half the weight. They are 3S 12c (more than enough to power the case electronics) and will fit nicely in to my "battery case."
The servos on the right are awesome too:
SM-S4315R 360 degree Servo - 213oz Torque -- Used for PAN
SM-S4315M - 230oz Torque -- Used for Tilt
SM-S8166M - 460oz Torque -- Used for Rear Steering
Here's how the SM-S8166M fits in to the rear:
Fits exactly - perfect. I just quickly mounted it, the rubber gromets aren't there, and the steering assembly is barely hooked up, but I tested it anyway the servo is SOO Quiet compared to the Spektrum, I didn't think the servo was even working it was so quiet.
All these servos are analog, so they're much quieter than those annoying buzzing digital servos - I didn't want to hear them whining on the camera over every single bump.
Also received today was my ORIGINAL power supply I ordered back in Q3 September, a bunch of rubber grommets, a 10-pack of 10v 4700uf caps, a 4PDT switch (for my joystick disconnect) annnnd some screen protectors.
Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.
Heh yeah, MONSTER torque! It's far stronger than my hand that's for sure! Got my finger pinched accidentally, thank god for the servo saver or I'd probably be one digit less!
Woke up today and went straight to work on making its mount nice and secure, and threw some extra TRX in there!
It's completely solid, nothing budges and its end points are near perfect. Anyway, this is supposed to be an FPV build, not a 4WS build, so enough 4WS for now...
Today I'm most likely going to work on breaking out the buttons from the monitor remotes, and DVR etc... (those tiny 3mm push buttons) and make certain it will all work. That'll lead me to getting the camera buttons all setup and functional - there's a control board on the camera that is connected via a 9pin ribbon cable, I want to remove it completely, and just make my own ribbon that goes to a project box that has the camera controller build in there - 5 buttons, video out, power in, etc..
Thanks a lot snowslider, I've said it before - peoples positivity in this thread is my main drive!
It wouldn't fit at all, it's huge!
It fits EXACTLY between the rear body mount poles. So take a look at your rear body mounts, that's how wide it is! This one dwarfs the "standard" sized front steering servos. The other two that I have would work though - but they're not powerful enough to run alone. The Spektrum S6030 that I have (digital) would work fine as a front steering single servo, it has about 50oz more torque than both the Traxxas ones combined.