Hey guys its that time of year again when the n00bs come out with stupid questions so not wanting to disappoint here I am
Anyhow I'm not a complete n00b I've had a few nitro cars in the past but to be fair this is my first Electric car.
Anyhow long story short I got my ERBE last week and broke the clutch in per the instructions with the factory packs. Everything was perfect and operational as it should be. Slapped the 6S Lipo packs in and boom instant melted spur.
The next day with a fresh rebuild AND tightening the slipper down to the level of the spring completely compressed and then backed off between 1/8th and 1/4 of a turn the car ran amazingly through about 1/2-2/3 of those packs but then proceeded to melt the spur again but this time also almost weld the flywheel to the pressure plate and ate part of the bearing and turned the race blue.
Obviously I've got some heat/slip issues here even though I'm adjusted as tight as I can. I've read about people using Tmaxx brake discs in place of clutch pads (which makes sense) is this a plug and play/drop in solution? I don't need to drop $50 in parts every time I run this thing LOL I did search a bit but didn't find any definitive "yup it drops right in" type of posts.
Any help is welcome and appreciated!
Wow, that's pretty bad...can't you hear it slipping and feel the difference in torque getting to the wheels while your running? That's the "gauge" I use to adjust my clutch.
When you get it replaced tighten that slipper all the way, not just untill the spring is compressed all the way but untill the slipper doesn't slip noticeably when you slam the throttle on a grippy surface, then back it off an 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time untill it only slips for a second or two on hard starts, if it's slipping more than 3 or 4 seconds frequently it will burn up....that spring really does nothing on a brushless revo which is why there is so little difference in too tight and too loose on the nut adjustment...you were obviously still too loose with just the spring compressed and then you loosened it a little more. Look at it this way...when you slam the throttle back on 6s you are dumping 5 horse power onto that slipper clutch instantly, it's got to be tight not to slip and the adjustment window is very narrow.
This is all assuming your slipper didn't have anything wrong with it to begin with of course. Go with the aluminum pads if you want something better than the stock fiber pads, although I think I heard it comes with the aluminum pads now?
Last edited by candy76man; 04-09-2012 at 02:14 PM.
Admittedly the first set of gears/clutch setup (which was my first set on lipo) I thought I had another issue (acted like low voltage cutoff) until after running it for about two minutes realized what it was doing so that was definitely my fault. The second go around was with the slipper what I thought was pretty **** tight as I said with the spring completely compressed (and tightas well) and the backed off 1/4 turn on the aluminum pads. This thing got so hot that apparently it collapsed the pressure plate onto the flywheel in the center/bearing area.
I picked up a Tmaxx brake disc today how are people attaching this to the flywheel just simply increasing the hole size? Is there a slipper setup out there that everyone pretty much agrees is bulletproof?
I'm impressed you can get it that hot... I know mine will start to fade if I get it too hot, do you just drive right through the fade until you get failure?
Also the spur gear is melting... from the inside? Not the teeth right? Because if its the teeth, thats your gear mesh, and not the slipper.
I know the clutch isn't my problem but I'd like to upgrade it while I'm in there hence my questions on the Tmaxx brake disc and any sort of known "bulletproof" setup
Wellllll..... have you got the aluminum or fiberous pads in it now?
I'm glad to hear you're actually using the slipper. A lot of people just crank it down then complain about their diffs being short lived.
You're not doing anything silly like running big joe tires and trying to go fast on 6s are you?
Aluminum its what my truck came with stock so I've continued using them. I figure the slipper is there for a reason the engineer in me knows that companies don't spend money or overcomplicate designs where they don't need to. Factory wheels/tires trying to go fast on concrete primarily (high load).
Last edited by GTPprix; 04-09-2012 at 03:00 PM.
Then you should be able to make the stock one last.... I got a little over a year out of my first one, still on my second.
My pads finally wore to the point that the center of the slipper would contact, and relieve pressure making it slip more and more...
I think Robinson makes a slipper that can hold 6 pads. I've never used it, as the stock one has worked fine for me. Which makes me think maybe something else is going on, because it sounds like you're building heat pretty fast.
How about the bearings? If you move the motor so it doesn't mesh, does the truck roll really nicely?
Have you played with the torque control in the ESC software? Its a pretty easy way to reduce driveline stress, although it can make for some quirky low speed handling.
Silly question, anyone have a video about setting the slipper? I think that would be really useful but I don't have a camera to do it. One that shows the gear mesh, then adjusting the slipper for the different conditions. Just an idea.
Will the double slipper work on the slash 4x4?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Caution, this message contains words.