So when i took the old parts out, and went to unplug the cables from the link receiver box, CH1 was steering servo, CH2 was empty, CH3 was the ESC, rest were empty on the old VXL system, now I have a whole new system, I kept the same steering servo tho. What do I do and in what order with the ESC/Receiver/Transmitter since it's all new stuff. It's my first time doing this, so if any help is out there would be greatly appreciated.
Crusey was helping me out on the URC forum, but since this is directed more at a traxxas product and such, figured I'd come over here and talk to the gurus of this stuff.
What originally happened to the old VXL3 system was it went up in smoke, they replaced it (I had only used it 3x) battery just sparked hard and the ESC went up in smoke, it did it again on a 2nd ESC again, after only about 3-4 uses but because I had waited so long in between the use of the replacement they weren't able to replace the 2nd one, so I said now's a better time than any. So I purchased the MMP 2400kv sct with esc combo, and I also purchased the castle link system, so if there's anything I need to do in there as well, lemme know thanks, glad to be over here at the traxxas community.
Oh on a side note, I've seen a few slash 4x4's where people didn't have to move the receiver antenna when moving the box, how did you guys manage to do that? http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/...y/7b909437.jpg I was told I had to move mine? sorry i went a little extra on the questions, but wanna get this right as I'm building it, and no better place to ask I figured.
Thanks, will look forward to your replies
It is the same, servo goes into CH1, esc into CH2 (third slot). If you use velcro to hold the esc there is no need to move the rx box, if you use snappy esc mount you will have to do it.
We are here to help. Ask what you need answered. Let's see, first off you should go to the Castle link. Plug it in and reset your low voltage cutoff. Stock on the MMP is too low in my opinion. You do that by holding the round button in the lower right hand side. I believe it will be the second on the list. I have mine set to 3.5. After you get that squared away, you plug it into the receiver just like the VXL. Make sure that the lighter colors are toward the meat of the receiver. Dark colors toward the edge. Read the manual to calibrate the esc. It is pretty simple. Hold the trigger and you hear some beeps ect. You don't need to move the box. It all fits in the stock position. Good luck, you can do it! Remember if you need more help, we are here!!!
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Yeah, Crusey had me pick up the snappy ESC mount, and the Traxxas 3628 Reciever Box for the Stampede/Rustler/Bandit and said to move it up to the front and relocate the antenna. If I do actually have to move it now since I got the snappy mount (I like how its setup and it makes for a clean install and even holds the switch). so once my ESC is in CH2 (3rd slot) It just over writes immediately from the old one? nothing else needed? other than to calibrate my ESC. I don't have to remove any old settings the box may of kept for the VXL system?
@El Sob -
I don't need to reset the transmitter at all? I guess the only time I have to reset the transmitter is when I get a new receiver system I guess? Wasn't sure what that button on the Receiver was for, right under the "link" logo. Also, is there anything to worry about before hand? like since it's not in autolipo mode, is the ESC config accessible without a battery plugged in? since my only connectors now are deans, and I have no deans NiMH, only deans Lipo, do I go in first before I plug the battery in and select auto lipo before I mess with the configuration? better safe than sorry! don't wanna fry anything
Ordered a bunch of parts, had to get a new plastic driveshaft cover because the old ESC melted the screwhole part of it, and I ordered a kingheadz motor mount, kingheadz bearing adapter, snappy ESC mount, Pro-Line Adjustable Battery Strap,Traxxas Slipper Pressure Plate,Hub: Revo, Traxxas Revo & Maxx Heavy Duty Slipper Clutch Rebuild Kit, the castle system/link/ESC combo and some deans connectors.
If any of you want to see what it's looking like (got some crawler rims mixed with some street tires on 2.2") it's going to be convertible from speed runs to offroad. Right away it's going to be doing speed runs on 3s with 20/50 and 24/50 gearing. Anything higher I'll go 4s, but I think 3s and that gearing is plenty here's where its at now, the body is just "Resting" on the front and rear its all taken apart, but I just sat the chassis on the front and rear assembly to see how it would look, I plan on lowering it about 2 1/2" more for aerodynamic reasons, I think it's going to look pretty awesome
http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/...y/7b909437.jpg That guy has the snappy ESC mount and still has his antenna in the same place... dunno how he pulled the wire through the box and put it back in... I can't even pull the plastic out of the mount.
Last edited by Themadcat945; 03-31-2012 at 12:11 PM.
4s gearing, 25/50, youll poop your pants
SL4SH Mamba Monster-Rustler Mamba Max 2400kv
No setting the radio system except for the esc. The radio and receiver are fine. The MMP is already in Lipo mode. I just would have it cut off at a higher Voltage than it is set from the factory. Sounds like you are going to be fine. The only weird thing you may run into is the truck going in reverse when your controller says forward. To fix that problem just connect the red wire on the esc to the white wire on the motor. Then connect the white wire from the esc to the red wire on the motor. You will ne just fine! We are here for you!
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So, for those people who used the snappy ESC mount (Mine is the XL) how did you get your antenna wire through the box without having to move the antenna? I figured just pulling the wire out from the tube then slipping it back in, wasn't sure of a safe way to do that tho, don't want to kink/bend it. I tried pulling the tube out of the holder but it seems insanely glued.
The ESC on ones with the snappy mount and when you relocate your box you have 2 fingers width in between the motor and ESC. that looks like a half an inch or less. I build computers for a living, have for 20 years. The ESC and Motor are so close to each other the heat they give off hits each other and just creates a little alleyway of heat. and due to the small area to dispense of the heat it stays there longer. That's just me, call me picky, but even if you don't have issues now ,I'm all for making things as cool as possible, and something that averages 140+ degree's on 3s wont be sitting .5 of an inch to my ESC. and the snappy Product looks nice and houses everything very cleanly. I'd use lexan for things like making an ESC waterproof like on Jangs video and a few other things.
Now alls I need todo is figure out how to get the antenna wire out without damaging it so I can pull the antenna wire through the receiver box and then put the antenna back where it goes, I can't seem to pull the antenna out. even with pliers straight up. So I don't want to damage it, until then I'll try to figure something out lol.
I'm not completely sure of what you are talking about in reguards to the antenna wire. The blue tube is held in place with a small grub screw. If you remove the screw the whole thing will come loose easily. Is this helpful?
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Man i need more than 50 characters.