Hey all, I just installed a FLM chassis on my Emaxx and need some help, Are the drive shafts supposed have some play which allows them to slide back and forth? I had the traxxas steel drive shafts before the chassis swap and those were solid with no movement. I had my Maxx out at the beach this weekend for the first time with this chassis and I'm pretty sure the rear diff stripped out. Have not been able to tear it down yet to confirm but I didn't like the the way the drive shafts were so loose.
Many more questions to come I'm sure, this forum is a great source of information and I just finally created my account. Just finished the body last night:
I use pieces of fuel tubing to take up the slop
Fuel tubing or rubber o-rings will fix that.
And post pics of your maxx !
I use small springs I bought at a hardware store. They do the trick.
Thanks for the info guys, I'll let you know how it goes once i tear down the rear dif.
My guess with the rear diff is that the inner pinion let go and the bearings ruined the ring gear. I have had it happen a few times now.
BentR- does that mean I will need to rebuild most of the dif? I have torn down the truck multiple times but have not had to deal with dif issues yet. Truck is about 2 years old with 1 year of brushless 5S wear. Been worried the difs are next to go...
I use small pieces of fuel tubing on both ends to keep the dog bones from popping out. Dont make them to tight where they will but some bind on the diffs and tranny. I used a full piece on both ends and ended up cutting them back to halves. Worked perfect and they havent popped out since. Some help on here gave me that advice.
Help is so fluent and willing around this place. I love it.
BTW I Dig the green accents on the wheels and truck. Green and black is my fav colors.
I have some pieces left over from my FLM build and want to know where they should have gone. In the first pic I think the silver tube looking piece is maybe just an anttena holder... Please let me know where this thing goes.
In the second pic there are 3 silver washer type pieces, Im thinking these should have gone into the steering and I have had issues with steering getting tight when i wrench everything down, please let me know on these also. THANKS!
The top piece is for the attena and there is a hole near where the receiver box mounts for it to thread into.
I am not sure where the little spacers go I didn't use them on mine and have no issues.
Just noticed where you say the steering is binding. Make sure the steering post are not seated properly in the chassis. They may be misaligned a little where the grooves are.
Thanks for the info guys, the steering problem was related to the one piece of Integy product i have on my truck which WAS the front skid plate. It was bent/tweaked and when i wrenched it down would pull on the steering and tighten everything. That plate is now gone and the replacement (no name company) while scratched up badly works great and there is no binding.
Another question: I'm sure this is discussed in some thread but i am running out of time to search, should i be threadlocking the screws since most are going into aluminum now? If so how easy is it to get them back out if necessary?
I did use blue locktite on seven of the eight screws to connect the bulkheads as well as the chassis brace, not sure how I missed one of each, but I did. I noticed them because they were backing out. I know I had them tight as reasonably possible. So I'd recommend it. Shouldn't be that hard to remove it needed. Just a little extra force.
FLM EMBE P4de "Digger" Slash MT Backsl4sh Summit
Locktite is your friend! Any time you have a screw go into metal, use it. And keep in mind also, locktite does degrade over time, so don't buy in bulk unless you use it alot. And give it a good shake if you haven't touched it in a while as it can separate.
You guys might think this is crazy but I don't use locktite on my chassis screws. I do check them regularly. I stopped using it because I was scared of stripping the screws that hold the skids on. I haven't had any issues with them backing out.
I use the blue on my alum bellcranks screws and yoke pins.
@bentrocker, I don't think you're crazy. There's times when I've felt like "Why bother?" on things that get taken apart regularly, but by default I usually put it on. Seems it's not as big a deal when it's not a nitro.
I run my truck I wet conditions so the rust on the screws tends to hold them in place pretty well. LOL!
Thanks for the info guys, I used some locktight on the screws that seem to back out the most such the ones on the skid attached to the chassis braces as well as the main transmission mount. Just finished replacing the rear diff, swamped it out with a new one from ebay for $19 and will rebuild when I have some more time. Will post some pics when get back from vacation this weekend.
I also use small piece of fuel tubing on each side
Was that a brushless diff you bought for $19 ?