What can I try with shocks and springs to stop the truck from nose diving off rolling jumps ?
Had trouble today on a new track with the front diving down , lot of it I think was not enough traction to get the front up on take off .
I have not had my slash in the air much yet, but after taking my summit to skatepark I found if I let off throttle mid flight it would go nose down. I starting keeping on the gas more and it would keep it level
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Slash 4x4 is horrible for nose dives. Stay on the throttle or blip it and let off just before landing. Works for me.
Accelerate to lift up nose brake to nose dive play around in air to even out
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There are 2 things that cause the nose to drop over jumps. First is throttle/brake. The heavier your tire/wheel combo and taller your gearing the more control you have over this. While pro-line beadlocks are a little heavier than one peice wheels, they do help in this reguard, the downside being a little more bounce over bumpy surfaces. To jump the slash well, line up for the jump and steadily increase throttle till it goes into the air, then keep throttle steady, pull more throttle if you want to get the nose up, and lower throttle if you want to bring the nose down, but usually it is fairly neutral, it is the difference in throttle between the ground and air that causes it to nose down, where most other trucks need to reduce or even center throttle once they get in the air, then use brakes to lower the nose. If you are at full throttle on the way to the jump, then you will probably need close to full throttle to stay level in the air, it takes time to get rid of the bad habit of dropping throttle in the air, and to manage throttle to match your attitude angle in the air with the landing spot. I find that the truck likes to land a little more on the front wheels than rear, or even landing flat, it lets the front wheels pull first and helps settle the suspension and stabilize the rear as it hits.
The other thing that can cause an abrupt nose drop is bottoming out the rear suspension on the crest of the jump, this catapults the rear high over the jump, to combat bottoming, you need thicker shock oil and/or more pack up with smaller piston holes, stiffer springs and a taller ride height don't really help, and can cause other handling issues. Driving style can also cause bottoming, you want to be as smooth on the throttle as the track allows, going full throttle right before a jump loads the rear suspension, and lowers the height, so it will bottom easier, some do this trying to PREVENT a nose dive thinking they aren't giving enough throttle off of a jump.
Last edited by alucard0822; 03-18-2012 at 11:26 AM.
alucard0822 , good info thank you. I'm running a 12/54 gear with brushless vel. on 5000 nimh battery and gladiator tires . The track was a tight layout for the most part with several slower rolling doubles . hard pack clay with a loose top later in the runs.
Some of the doubles are just far enough apart that you have to hit them perfect to make them or land in the face of the next jump. No real air time to lift the nose with the throttle. I know the gladiators are not the best choice of tire later in the runs but still not the issue with the jumps.
Imo the track is set up for the larger gas buggies that run there also.
The lighter other brand SC trucks with better drivers can make the doubles better but still have problems .
Try holding it wide open up the face of the jump. Go slower up to the jump and get the majority of ur speed on the face of the jump.