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  1. #41
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    hahaha. Nice

  2. #42
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    Oaks, those wheels look like a fun setbto have around for track bashing. You got the tall 2.8 set right? If its the set im thinking of (they only have one set of 2.8 I think) but anyway ... that set, looks like it would suck up the landings, that's one of the good things about a tall sidewall. But the treads ....yyyyeeeeeaaaa track only. I have lots of short course, and and most have a similar tread. Unfortunately, I tire like that will last me a few weekend races and pretty close to a single bash if I touch the street. No kidding, centers are bald in a battery and the hole rear set by the time a few packs are gone. If your on a mix of terrain, mashers could ne your best tire, if its way more offroad than anything else, badlands are the absolute best of the best. Don't stand behind your truck if your running some badlands.
    Oh ya, the point lol seems like Jconcepts was really misleading when making a vid of those on a p4de. In my opinion, they just sucked a ton of people into thinking it was perfect for them. It should be advertising as a offroadtire.
    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

  3. #43
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    And that's just the thing, even from the brief stint I pulled last Sunday, I can already see the wear pattern, it's mild, but definitely noticeable. Maybe on all grass runs, but yeah... Beadlocks so I could flip the tires would be ideal. And I'm already running the camber way positive until I get the hardware setup correctly ie big bore tuning, gearing, exact battery placement, who knows I might even have some interference issues. Might be worth it to throw the trenchers on the back and just run the jays up front. Or save a pair for the right conditions. There's an indoor offroad track about an hour away. I feel like these tires are all business. the sound coming from them was a whirring and they love to shred thru grass.

    Quick request, when you press down on the front end, how does the shock behave on the rebound?

  4. #44
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    I have mine set up to rebound at a medium fast speed. They rebound about 3/4 of the way up. What is the behavior you dislike or what do you want them to do. Start a thread or do a search, we can help ya. Best bet for shock tuning is (my opinion) listen and chat with the guys, tell them what you want, then take the collective best or most common answer to the truck, that's a starting point. Then, if your having a bit of dribble dialing in, go back to thread, explain steps taken, and you may have enough gathered experience from your experience to filter the bull and get it in check. Shock tuning is gotta be the toughest part of the hobbie for the new guys. If your starting from the point that you just don't know step one, its most likely gonna be the longest to learn.
    If you want a really good grasp on shock tuning, you would be best to start with a simple check on fluids and bladders, watch a bunch of videos to make sure the job is done 100% correct. Just a basic check using 30-40w, topping off, and sealing the caps/bladders. I say this because its vital to have a idea of how they work now, how they behave, and the thing you like/dislike. But most important, they work right! So just make sure they are all in check and properly assembled inside. Once you now how they behave 100%, like you know how its gonna act in every situation, then and only then, you can start to make changes that matter. More so then shooting darts with your eyes closed, right. Do you know for a fact they are assembled correctly, filled correctly and in the best working order. Do you know there actions as you hit the terrain, like its second nature? I ask because, how would you know if the change you make was done correctly and giving you the proper benefit from the changes made. What if you start buying stuff for improvement, then as you learn, oops, it was all messed up from the get-go. Lol, hope I didn't go to deep on ya. This is why I said "start another thread lol ......to tired for thinking lo.....zzzzz.zzzzz....zzzzz.....zzzz
    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

  5. #45
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    That sucks that the dye job didn't work for ya digger! But remember when we had talked about this before and I showed u those rpm green parts? I think that is the key here. Rpm chrome can be dyed colors, simply because it is mediocre chrome. Really good chrome plating shouldn't take dye, that's a fact. Chrome plating is meant to resist penetration by all kinds of liquids, that's what it was invented for...to keep stuff shiny and resist corrosion, mainly from moisture. So it stands to reason that a good, quality chrome plating would not take dye very easily, if at all. It's funny cuz I've said it before, rpm chrome is not quality, and by dying their own chrome and showing that it will take the water based dye, they have unintentionally shown that their own chrome plating is bunk. I've had rpm wheels that the chrome was flaking off in the package, and after running chrome rpm wheels for a bit, I usually end up painting them to make them look presentable again. I would say that it would be likely that Traxxas chrome parts would be hard to dye too, as most of the ones I've used won't chip or flake unless the plastic underneath is damaged as well. Kudos to you for trying though. I think it's safe to say that any chrome that will take water based dye, probably would last too long anyways as far as durability. Just my 2.


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  6. #46
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    I totally agree with ya man. It's all good though. I still have a set of wheels. I really just wanted to try something new. I have a set of HPI wheels for my EMBE and they still look good from a distance byt about 30% of it has flaked off. I think when they start looking nasty i'm going to take the last bit off and dye or paint them. I'm even thinking that bedliner spray would look good on them. Subject change: I was catching some windshield time while getting some keys made from a locksmith and we seen this Truck, pretty new actually, sprayed all over with bedliner. Looked pretty awesome, i wouldnt drive it though. haha. Like I said above we live and learn. I'll have my fair share along the way, hard headed or not. One good thing we can pass on what we learn to others on here. All i know is Proline Black wheels that have been chromed dont take dye. LOL So i'm wondering if they have any wheels that started out originally white then chromed? hmmmm
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  7. #47
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    I know rpm wheels come in white plastic and black plastic, both with chrome plating. The last set of chrome rpm clawz wheels I bought, 2 came in black and 2 in white. Not sure why.


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  8. #48
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    I spoke with RPM today. Talked to a few people while being past on for someone with more experience. Finally, 3 reps in, I spoke to a gentleman with hands on experience with dying RPM's parts. He said, " black under or white doesn't matter" He explained that plastic chroming process it a series of paint layers and clearcoats. Whither RPM parts u dye the outer clear coats.. He also explained the flatter the surface the easier, more consistent it will look after. And with some wheels, the amount of the clear layers can very resulting in how well the dye takes or doesn't take. Don't boil or simmer, just hot/med hot. Don't worry about over dyeing, it can only take to a point (usually the same as intended color or lighter) Well, good like! Mine will be in by the weekend.
    Looks like the dye process can be ruled out for the desperado's, for me anyway.
    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

  9. #49
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Hmmmmm.....thanks for the info dread. kewl to know the base plastic color didnt matter when dying chromies. Kewl kewl. Appreciate the valuable info for sure.
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