I'd like to buy a Stampede 4X4 VXL general off road, andWheelies.
Could you list the must have upgrades for this truck?
I don't care too much for the look, just want to get the truck tough so that it won't be easily broken in light bashing, or the differential won't strip due to lot of wheelies.
Thanks for your help.
Last edited by hskb; 02-08-2012 at 01:19 AM.
I would buy RPM parts as they break such as a arms because they are going to break the easiest. I'd upgrade as the truck breaks like with aluminum shock caps, Traxxas Aluminum Bearing Adapter Blue Slash 4X4 #6893x, Traxxas Front Hardened Steel Drive Hub Slash 4X4 #6888X.
Thrash It, Bash it, Break it, No Regrets!!!
i would also go with a kingheadz motor mount, RPM shock towers much stronger then stock
My list, probably you don´t need them all, but I like upgrades
1. Caslte MMP-2400
2. Hitec 645mg servo
3. RPM arms.
4. Sway bars.
5. T-bone bumper
6. STRC alumiun motor mount
7. MIP cvd's
8. Proline trenchers on desperados
9. Proline raptor body
10. Jconcepts overtray.
11. big bore shocks.
+1 on the Mip X-Duty axles! I also recommend a metal motor mount and hub adapter.
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Hi every body!
I often read about metal motor mount must have as king headz. Can anybody tell me about what it's exacly help for? Does it avoid spur gear stripping?
To make your diffs bullet proof put the diff carrier supports in traxxas part 5382x i have these in for about a year and a half and they still feel brand new.....peace
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Depends what you intend to run. I runs 2s only. The only upgrade I have is aluminium bearing adapter (stock mount is fine), RPM bumper, and Tekno rear shaft kits as eventually the stock twist and break. Unless you like buying upgrades you don't need to do to much to it.
Heat sink/fan for the motor is worthwhile too. :-)
Would you say it can also prevent keep on stripping spur gear?
what would be the principal "symptom" of a breaking bearing? I had so many problem with my Stampede, I can't imagine I never broke one!!
Not looking after it or keeping it lubed up it general maintenance that makes a differance.....peace
Famous last words...watch this!!!!
Had my Stampede 4x4 VXL for less than a month (actually it is my 7 year old sons) and I've ordered most, if not all of the
Traxxas Aluminium upgrade parts. Waiting for the MIP drive shafts and need to do some hard Losi springs as I'm carrying more weight due to a heavy metal roll cage. My goal is to make this 4x4 as indestructable as possible and run 3 cell regularly. I am running the RPM front and rear A-arms. Also running the Traxxas big bore shocks.
I like the look and quality of the Traxxas upgrade parts but having just replaced the shock towers front and rear. They look
great but I have to ask whether replacing all the stock parts with aluminium upgrade parts is going to meet my goal of making this super strong? I'm not a serious basher at all and prefer to run the car on moderate offroad terrain such as grass and bushland without needing to jump it high and roughing it up. What I want is a super fast tank that will be lots of fun and reliable.
So, put money aside when responding to this question, if you could replace all stock parts with the available upgrades, would it be stonger and more durable or not?
How to make the Stampede indestructible: make it as light as possible with aluminum in very select places.
Most aluminum parts are a waste of money. A "heavy metal roll cage" only makes the vehicle heavier, not indestructible. The added weight actually puts more stress on other components, including your motor. If I was you, I would stop buying parts unless you just want them for looks and just run your truck and replace what breaks.
I like having 500k in my diffs (doesn't help durability, but it's better for bashing over rougher terrain)
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Wait until the parts break to replace them. RPM A-arms are a good replacement. RPM rear bearing carrier. MIP X-duty CVDs payoff over time. The stock front drive shafts lasted me a while while the rears lasted 5 seconds on 3s. I have yet to break or bend the shock towers although people list them as an RPM upgrade all the time. I'm not the biggest fan of aluminum parts and have none except for the King Headz motor mount because of running 3s.
Just installed the Losi 2.5" 5160 4.1lbs springs last night in the front and rear Traxxas big bore shocks. I'm using a 55 weight shock oil as well. Are there any stiffer springs as these are still a little soft for my liking.
[QUOTE=emmanhello;5335869]The best spring I have bought for my big bore: (Perfect length and stiffness)
Rear: VGracing progressive Front
Front: Traxxas Springs Rear Progressive +20% Blue 6868
Interesting setup. I might try moving the progressives that came with the big bores to the front, and will look at moving from the 2.5" Losi 4.1lb (LOSA5160) to the 3.1" Losi 4.3lb (LOSA5462) on the rears. Will see if that works well.....
Motor mount screw loosened up and gear mesh got too sloppy.
Sand may have found it's way into the gears and got the mesh too tight.
You've locked up your slipper completely by tightening it down all the way (or almost).
Here is my far-from-scale Trail Truck. What originally started as a stampede 4x4 XL-5 I very quickly transformed into what it is to cover one of the major drawbacks of this type of vehicle which is high speed stability and cornering. Heres the list:
Stampede 4x4 Trail truck-
15/54 32p gearing
VXL-3s ESC with Velineon 3500 motor
Traxxas aluminum motor mount
Passive cooling: Bastens aluminum heatsink
Active cooling: Integy heatsink with fan
Associated XP ds1015 steering servo (201oz/in ,.108sec@6V)
Stock Rustler front 4.2lb/in 2" Front spring
Blue Losi 4.1lb/in 2.5" Rear spring
C3 front/C3 rear shock mounts
50wt/50wt shock oil
Front shocks: Stampede front Ultra shocks
Rear shocks: Rustler rear Ultra shocks
Titanium nitride-coated front shafts
STRC Aluminum shock caps
Front/rear preload: 12mm medlg/12mm medlrg
Hard front sway bar midway to pivot point
Hard rear sway bar farthest from pivot point
Proline Protrac kit (18mm widening)
Hot Racing 25mm aluminum wide kit
Aluminum 30 degree caster blocks
Rear toe-in: stock 1.5 degrees
Stock suspension geometry
Proline 2.8 Badlands on Desperadoes
75k/slipper setting half turn out/40k diff oil
Traxxas aluminum bearing adaptor
Battery expansion kit
Rustler VXL body
Traxxas wheelie bar
Temperature and Voltage telemetry
Steering expo @7%
Steering dual rate @100%
Right Steering end point @100%
Left Steering end point @100%
TSM setting: 50%
Venom 3s 6400mah 20C
I first started with a 3215kv 2pole motor (I think it was a Leopard) with a 45a Radient Reaktor motor. I liked the fact that is programmable unlike the VXL system. Yes I also have a castle MMP with 4600kv but this is a versatile trail truck. The motor didnt work out because doing a lot of low speed caused heat issues bc of the lack of torque and I do know how to keep a motor cool. While I dont like the VXL system much it does what its supposed to do and it does it very well with my setup. It also came free..
Tires are probably the most important upgrade for any RC and most of your upgrades will revolve around your tires. Proline Badlands 2.8 are the best in dirt and grass and have amazing forward bite but they also make you traction roll more than anything else. That's where my suspension settings came in combined with sway bars tuned just right and the Proline Protrac kit combined with Hot Racing 25mm wide kit. While I did mention that this is a trail truck, I also like to drive fast and not just in a straight line.
Finally you want to keep things nice and cool for high speeds. Speed runs are boring so dont give into the 60mph hype on the box. On a full charge, expect to be geared for 50mph under that for street use and 45mph for offroad use. While some may say thats too fast and you'll burn up your motor/ESC it really comes down to what you've done to prevent overheating. As mentioned before, I'm using Badlands which are MUCH lighter than Trenchers and they not only make my truck quicker than trenchers but I also have longer run times and a cooler motor.
I have voltage and temperature telemetry installed bc they're cheap and easy and its much easier than using a temp gun. I'll still use a temp gun on both the ESC AND my servo because the servo does get hot as well especially if you're running a gyro. As mentioned in the list I did not skimp out on the servo and it was worked quite well for me
With my properly tuned RC I can run it hard in medium to thick grass on a full charge and not overheat my electronics. I also barely traction roll because of my suspension tuneup. Lastly, I'll only upgrade some of the many things people have been upgrading until they actually brake (drive shafts). Again, im running Badlands which are easier on the driveline than Trenchers. The only downside is that I cant drive crazy on the street or i'll tear up my tires very quickly
I realize that with the truck body I can just use the "self-righting" feature if the truck rolls over but it doesn't always work and I like the look of the Rustler much more than the Stampede body and the car body also gives it a slightly lower COG
Here are some pics. The one with the Bastens aluminum heatsink and Integy heatsink+fan are before I made the switch to Velineon 4 pole.
Last edited by DeathVirus; 06-11-2016 at 08:31 AM.