This is my second go with the xo-1. Been a process for sure and a challenge. Wasn't satisfied with the play in the suspension.
Bushed all the hinge points, added Proline arms, summit hubs(to correct offset) reconfigured battery compartments to hold 6s in each saddle, Tekno RC M-6 rear knuckles, rpm front C-hub with Tekno RC M-6 front knuckle. Had installed a Spektrum s6030 steering servo but switched back to the 2075. Installed a Futaba 4pls with a twin antenna futaba aircraft receiver R2006GS 6-Ch (no range problems now!!!) Replaced the front diff with a spool and one way bearings in the front knuckles.
Machined my own draglink with bronze bushings, also installed ceramic bearings in the motors and set the end play to .006 thousandths.
Built my self a twin motor mount because it seems Traxxas knew people like me would want 2 motors at some point.
Had originally planned on installing twin CC 2028 motors with CC HV 200 amp speed controls but after a little testing with twin 1717 motors proves to be MORE than enough power with 6s to reach the rear tires limits. Testing has proved that the fronts handle more speed than the rears. With the new RT ca glue and 30lbs test spider wire fishing line spun over the foam inners seems to show HUGE promise in the tires rpm capabilities. Waiting on this weekends warm weather to go testing. Cold pavement will not work. Since speed is the name of the game, the wide rear tires only create drag and are not needed for strait line speed runs. Different story if your drag racing.
Last edited by cooleocool; 10-23-2014 at 08:57 AM. Reason: merge
Wow nice work. Looking forward to the results
Nice! Keep us posted and put up videos when ready!
Slash 4X4 Platinum / Mini E-Revo VXL
waiting on a dynamite gps speed meter for proof of muster.
have some vid of the single motor learning curve in setting the angle of attack at speed, that body is scratched up BAD.
should have vid this weekend.
Another awesome build keep up the good work
humay has left the building, peace.
Nice work lets see it run.....it's a winner
Question. What's the benefit on top speed with using two 1717's? Are you using a smaller spur gear than stock? Seems like dual 1515's on 6s would give a higher top speed, and still overpower the car a lot.
physics is my reason for twin 1717 motors. for every square increase in speed requires a exponential increase in the amount of power needed, ie like 2=4, 4=16, 16=64, 64=256 and so on.
another reason is im an old Dodge man and they use to design things where to much was just rite. the hayday of the 60s.
ive driven the xo with one 1717 with 34/46 gearing, 4 5000mah traxxas lipos wired to create 25v and 10000mah. with just 2 or 3 passes the motor is very warm with only being able to touch it for less than 2 seconds(to hot for me). testing it with 2 1717 motors and the same gearing and lipo configuration seems to barely load the motors now. even after 7 plus passes the motors are just barely warm. I have 36,38, and 40 tooth pinions that I have not used yet but should increase the amp load quite a bit.
We need videos this very cool build
Bashing Slash ultimate, 2 minis, and 5B
humay has left the building, peace.
this is from facebook and im sorry if I did it wrong
Last edited by bn2o; 10-28-2014 at 05:59 PM.
doesn't seem to work, ill keep trying
it works now, had to make it public in FB.
this is with 34/46 gearing and 6s. the first pass is warming things up then the next passes are progressively more and more throttle up to 100% throttle for about a second and half in the last pass. the pavement is not warm enough and I quite because the tires was starting to spin at 100% throttle
Wow! Any idea what mph?
Hope you're still watching this!
I've been thinking "twin" myself.........
I was wondering why you didn't raise the motor placement on the new mount. With the shafts in line there would be more gearing options.
From a high level with all other things being equal adding the 2nd motor would allow for doubling the pinion size (68T) and my guesstimations are that the pinion would rub the chassis.
That thing is a rolling monument of manly madness...a RMMM if you will...very cool!
Yes, girls dig me. It's the cross I must bare.
I think the car is going to be too heavy with twin motors. And the tires don't have enough traction to take advantage of the power. If you put 1/5th scale wheels on it, I have the feeling the drivetrain won't last long anymore with all the extra weight on the chassis plus the extra rotating mass and more traction from the tyres.
My 8Kg twin 1717 truggy
Looks awesome. Is that a savage converted?
Hey bn2o. My dad was going to make me a dual mount thats similar to yours. Would you still recommend this after having it like this? I've upgraded most of the suspension and some other things like liquid cooling but can the drive shaft handle this? I appreciate any help.
Last edited by LRSpeed; 07-26-2015 at 02:06 PM.
Heres where I picked it up at. The cooling motor mount plate that came with it doesn't fit the xo-1 so I just did a copper coil. I'd really like a water jacket for it for more even cooling but it works, could always work better. I wanted to race my friends short course, big gear, and not cease up lol. As soon as I pick up a new data cable for my camera I'll post a few pics. This car is a ton of fun and a great platform for all I want to try. So if I go with dual motors Ill have to get a better pump, bigger radiator, and jackets that fit.
Okay I've taken some pictures, got them on mac book from sd card, now just a little confused how to get them on here.
Edit... it says I may not post attachments in the permissions, is this my problem?
Last edited by LRSpeed; 07-31-2015 at 11:31 AM.
You cannot post attachments, you have to link to an approved photo sharing site. Picture tutorial is in the Alley.
The Super Derecho
I appreciate the help. Now to figure this out haha.
Thanks for all the help, wish I could have gotten these up earlier for you SHIFTT IX MR.
The kit came with a pump, radiator, cooled motor mount, cooled esc plate, tubing, and the bottles for filling and getting the bubbles out of the line. The mount was no good for the giant motor in the xo-1 so for now I've made a coil until I find the right water jacket. The carbon fiber isn't really the best for keeping cool but my temps stay a little lower on this than my first xo-1 with the metal plate and no liquid cooling.
The radiator fluid is only 90% water
Last edited by LRSpeed; 07-31-2015 at 02:26 PM.
Dude! This is so awesome, i'm jealous! I'll trade you my kids for that!
Where did you buy the kit? I would love to try something similar on my new Xo-1 build. These leaves me with some ideas if I choose a smaller motor, perhaps something that doesn't have fin, I can use a marine water jacket to cool the motor without having to the copper tubing. Please let me know where you purchased the kit. Thanks in advance, and thanks for the pics!
I only have one 6 yr old, could probably make room for more haha.
I picked up the cooling kit at http://www.micropumps.co.uk a couple years ago. I've checked and their still in business. The little scale fan is something I picked up at a local shop just because it made sense to me haha. I found a water jacket here http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ham-castle-XO1 that is supposed to fit I just haven't ordered it yet. I plan on dual motors eventually so I will need a bigger pump and radiator, possibly double. I'll order that jacket to see how it fits and post pics before we resort to smaller motors. The one it comes with is a lot of fun!
The placement of everything in this one is only temporary for function check.
Your welcome, I came here looking for help, so glad that I can as well.
Last edited by LRSpeed; 08-05-2015 at 11:56 PM.
http://www.micropumps.co.uk/TCSAcc-Cooling.htm the 330 at the bottom of the page. Do you think the computer pumps are a little heavy and want too much power? ex. they usually want 12v. I'd really like to see some pics when you get your ideas together.
I'm hunting pumps as we speak. You're right on the money with the voltage required. Having said that a larger or numerous radiators will require the pump to not only push more water, but to push harder because of the added complexity of numerous radiators, or in the case of a larger radiator, the distance between the pump and the radiator. Not to mention g forces will play a role in pump selection. You're going to need a pump that can put out decent pressure which may mean a 9-12volt pump. With Castle's pro BEC, that voltage should not be a problem. I'm using Castles pro BEC. Downside is that the receiver may not be able to handle 9 volts, let alone 12.
Here's one pump I'm thinking about. http://www.ebay.com/itm/6v-24v-DC-se...3D120858288580
Last edited by Double G; 08-06-2015 at 05:47 PM. Reason: merge
My little pump is 10 grams and moves 400ml per min of water and slightly less if thicker liquid is used. That ebay one weighs 66 grams and moves 100 to 150ml per min.
Last edited by LRSpeed; 08-06-2015 at 02:06 PM.
PS. have you tried running 100% coolant, or a 50/50 water/coolant mix? The coolant(antifreeze) will disapate heat much better than water. In my full Drag Evolution IX MR, I run a half size radiator - to make room for the turbo, i had no choice but to run a smaller rad.- and as a result, to reduce the likelihood of over heating while driving the car on roads, i run 100% coolant.
Funny thing is, when I run the car on the interstate, my thermostat will drop enough that i have to get off the interstate to reduce the airflow over the fins and thereby reduce heat exchange, increasing my temps. This works wonders on the strip when my car is just sitting waiting in line, but on the interstate i have to be careful the motor doesn't get too cool, as I have found my turbo spools faster with a hotter charged air than with cooler air. The oil temps drops, reducing the efficency of my turbo because now the oil is "thicker", for lack of a better word.
Last edited by Double G; 08-06-2015 at 05:47 PM. Reason: merge
Yet another XO-1 build that the OP just disappeared.. Did this one end up on ebay like the other one did?
Not in the case of electric, but nitro, or real world cars, yeah, heat matters. Heat is a double edged sword for those applications, as you probably know. Anyhow, I ordered the TCS system!!! Whoo whoo! Expensive, but it's not like i'm running a cheap setup. Now all I need is a 5682 (non-finned) to replace my 5882 (finned) Leopard motor, and get a water jacket and we should see some interesting results. I am going to see if i can amngle the radiator enough so i can eliminate the air scoop and have the air scoop trail downward and allow as little air a possible from entering the body from the bottom. This should help with drag.
For a stock set up the air scoop is awesome but I've wandered what it'd be like if I did away with it and got the air in some other way. Possibly a better place on the car for air to come in.
Post a couple pics when you get that all together, can't wait to see someone else with a TCS. When I found that a couple years ago I thought everyone would of heard of it by now but their in a different market.
Also thinking of getting a roll of carbon fiber to make a new, more rigid body for the high speed runs. Was just going to copy the original body.