this car is a beast, im almost afraid of it hehe...i have a few q's
I recently bought a second hand XO-1 and I luv it!!! Its practically new.
Some of my findings are as below:
- balanced the wheels as it was vibrating mid throttle, now it's smooth
- I went over the nuts and bolts and found about 6 or so which were loose
- now runs 34tooth pinion but I have changed it to the OEM 14tooth until I get used to the car
Questions I have as below:
- I was thinking of getting some 1/5 GRP or similar tyres, thoughts or should I stick to the factory wheels?
- can i setup an alarm or LVC with the TQi radio or will I need the castle field card? What is suggested here, 3.4v per cell? What is the LVC set at from factory?
- my 3cell batteries are puffy but it's only the plastic cover...the actual cells are not puffy, is this ok? I read on the trinity website this is fine as the cells simply stretch the plastic covers as they expand and contract
The big question I have as follows:
I decided to pull the front and rear suspension off the car, very easy and nice to work on. I did notice a small puddle of oil on the rear underside of the diff where it sits on the alloy undertray at the back of the car. I've also noticed that the wheels on the rear spin more freely off the ground than the front diff - is it because the front diff is limited slip whereas the rear is open centre diff?
I pulled off the diff case on the rear and to my surprise there was no diff oil, just looks like it is running a thicker brown grease on the gears. I then noticed that there is no gasket to seal the diff casing, is this normal as it looks like there is no provision to run a gasket anyway? I confirmed this with an exploded diagram view of the diff as there is no gasket in the diagram.
I then opened the front diff and my findings were identical to the above - no diff oil and gasket.
I finally looked in the manual which states how to refill the diffs and make sure the gaskets are seated well, as below (pt4):
Refilling the differential:
1. Remove the four 2.5x12mm screws*
from the differential case and*
carefully pull the differential case*
halves apart. Work over a towel to*
collect any fluid that drips from the*
2. Drain the fluid from the differential.*
You may wish to remove the spider*
gears from the differential to make*
3. Place the spider gears back into the*
differential case, if you removed them. Fill the differential case*
with fluid until it the spider gears are submerged half way.*
4. Rejoin the differential case halves, using care to align the screw*
holes. Be sure the rubber gasket is in place, or the differential*
What viscosity oil is recommended? Not sure what it is standard out of the box but have heard 30k is good.
I answered my own question about the diff...I was looking at the crown and pinion gear which are supposed to run grease...the actual diff that sits in the middle is what holds the oil so I'll pull this apart and also check the gasket (hopefully it's just loose, otherwise, where do I order the gasket from?)...100k oil in front and 10k oil in rear is standard so should I run 30k or 50k in the rear as it seems to work with some guys here?
Last edited by MarkoR1; 04-14-2015 at 07:57 AM.
For your diffs you'll need part number tra3978. It comes with the gaskets you need. Since you've bought it used I would replace both. Sounds like your going to replace the fluid in both anyways might as well get new diff cups with the new gaskets you need
Originally Posted by MarkoR1
I changed the oil in the front and rear diffs as stock they run 100k front and 10k rear. After more research on this forum, most upgrade to 50k front and 30k rear so I went with this setup and I'm happy with it...I also ran black grease on the outer gear which runs to the centre shaft gear.
With the 34tooth pinion for 100mph, it was such a handful on the street so I decided to try the stock 14tooth with the already fitted stock 46tooth spur gear and it is still an absolute animal.
I still can't come to terms with the power these xo-1s make, phenomenal how at almost any speed when u jump on it the wheels just break traction...next is to adjust the geometry so that it doesn't kick out into a 360 when I hit full throttle - any suggestions here on toe/camber for optimum stability and traction?
I also set my brake % to 100% and it literally locks the wheels when I hit the brake...I'll back it off to maybe 70% as it is good to have stopping power when u lose control.
It is a real challenge setting it up and I think that is why I enjoy this beast*