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  1. #1
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    summit scale accessories

    I have decided to purchase a 1\16 summit in the next few weeks and ive been looking at ideas for accessories to add. the first major one is lights. i guess my question on that is this; are the bumper lights on the summit just for looks are is it possible to use those cups for the summit led light harness? I have seen some people say they are ready for lights, traxxas just didnt include them, and I did notice that while they are on back order, the LED system is listed as a part on the 1\16 summit parts page, with the exact same light bar that comes on the truck listed above that.

    The second question is scale tow hooks. I want to know if the tow hooks or tow shackles found at the rc4wd store will work in any way on the summit bumper or are they made for 1\10 scale trucks meaning they would look massive on a mini? if not, does anyone know where i can find little shackles that would fit? i found a small shackle at ace, but it is a bit big even on my stampede. I noticed what looks like two mounting holes on either side of the front bumper of the summit, and i cant help but think tow shackles would look sharp on the front of that bumper. I am thinking i would have to drill the holes out a bit to get the shackles to fit, I'm just wondering if they are too large or not. some pics make them look pretty big, but I've seen other that seem to show they are quite small. thanks for the input!

  2. #2
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    I'm not sure about the tow hooks but I have read in several threads that the 1/10 summit light set works like a charm. There are plastic inserts in both the front and rear bumper of the 1/16 summit. So that 1/10 summit light set should fit right in and plug right in. This isn't so much of a accessory as a necessity but your going to want to pick up some stock Mini E-Revo drive shafts seeing as the stock mini summit drive shafts are so weak and the Merv ones are stronger and cheaper. (1 merv shaft = $8 and 1 mini summit shaft =$26)I would also shim the diffs before you run the thing. Another poster Jimmie Nuetron has shared with us and it's fantastic. I'll try and find the link to the thread and post it here.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  4. #4
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    Thanks Jimmie I couldn't find it and I figure you would float around sometime.

  5. #5
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    What is the reason for shimming the diffs? what does it do exactly? kinda seems like a bit of a job

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    It helps a known weak area of the 1/16ths hold together a bit longer.
    Even in stock form, the ring and pinion will eventually fail/strip out. Shimming takes the flex out of the bulkhead and this flex is what causes the ring and pinion to slip and strip. It only takes a few dollars and about an hour to do both bulkheads and will last many packs of done right. I have over 100 (probably closer to 150 by now) packs through my original shimmed bulkheads without any issues. I have read where as little as 1 stock pack through a bulkhead to cause it to strip out. I have also read that there are a few 1/16ths out there that have never shimmed and have no issues. In my opinion, it is cheap insurance.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  7. #7
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    I see, thanks for the info, but as far as the LEDs go, the stock bumper light cups are LED ready? i'm getting a list of stuff i wanna pick up when I order the truck so its all in at once. so far I have the bumper LED harness, the extender (with the end to end plugs so I can un plug it), revo drive shafts, red aluminum toe links, a second pack and parallel connector. I wanted to get a series connector for a few speed runs, but people say to avoid it even on the VXL. I would never run series for off road, just for a few speed runs..why would people say to avoid the connector is traxxas designed it to get higher speeds with 2 of the stock packs?

  8. #8
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    The bumpers are LED ready. The holes in them are 5mm i believe and that is what the LED kit should be. The 1/16 cars are designed to take two stock batteries in a series for high speed. It works well for the KB, Rally, and mustang because there street cars and where your drive is going to be usually smooth. Also these cars have small wheels and it doesn't take much to spin them. But in the 1/16 summit the tires are huge and it takes more muscle to turn resulting in overheating. So event if your driving on asphalt with the summit and a series connector the motor is going to get hot and the system will thermal over until it cools enough to run again. Think about running in grass. It would be tons worse because the truck needs even more power (which it has) to get going resulting in heating up faster. So I would suggest a heat sink for the motor if not a fan if you will be running in dry conditions.

    One other thing that's bad on the summit with a series is the drive shafts. The stock ones with a series connector will snap in the first five minutes unless your driving like a grandma. So good on you for ordering the merv shaft. Stronger and a money saver. If you have the money the Merv steel CVD's from traxxas would also be a great.


    Part Number: 7151X

    Shimming is a must. I saw the post from Jimmie when I first got my summit and I was like whatever to his thread. Bad choice. It's not all that terrible I suppose. But the time and money was enough to make me upset that I didn't listen. So $30 bucks later, I am happy and haven't had a problem since. (Ran about 30 packs so far)

    Your gonna love the truck. It is so fun. Can't tell you how many youtube videos I watched while I was waiting a week for my Mini Summit to come in the mail.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Series running for a few speed runs on pavement is what they were meant for. This is right in the manual. People get into trouble when they like the speed and want it all the time. lol

    Traxxas X shafts (pictured above) have a habit of popping out of the rear in a Mini-Summit due to the increased travel rockers and the swept back rear arms. There is a thread floating around where the issue was solved by shaving down the arms by a few millimeters. They had adjustable links/rods too.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  10. #10
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    Oops, Sorry Jimmie and Commander Cody. I haven't used them myself but have herd good things about them. I had no idea. Oh well. I believe you Jimmie since your are the 1/16 guru.

  11. #11
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    i finally got a chance to look at that thread and I have afew questions. first off, are you supposed to shim each side id the diff, or just the side with the arrow? Also, how long does the job typically take for both diff shim jobs. Also, if the diffs last longer when you shim them, why doesnt traxxas take not and fix that so its ready OTB? Seems like there are enough people talking about shimming that its worth them looking at..

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    I have only shimmed the side with the arrow as it pushes the mesh into each other tighter.

    I can shim both in about an hour while watching a movie. If I were to concentrate on just the shimming process, I imagine I could get both done in 15-20 minutes. For your first time, I would expect it to take 45 minutes each.

    The last question is not for me to answer... lol
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  13. #13
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    Thats not too bad I guess. I could probably get both sides shimmed with I wait for the packs to charge up

  14. #14
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    shimming the diffs is gold. I found that the plastic in each bulkhead are slightly different. Example, My mini summit takes a few shimms to mesh it up nice. My mini revo has one of the thinest shimms in each diff and thats it! Once diffs are shimmed you will notice a difference. Note, Hardcore jumps, big bottom outs and excidental driving with speed into a wall, will twist/warp your diff housing. even shimmed, once you do that expect the dreeded noise that comes with a stripped diff. I believe shimed diffs in an alloy housing would be the best, but the last thing you wana pay for if they break are the alloy diff housings. My last summit cartwheel ended up cracking my diff housing, smashing a bearing to peices and striping my ring and pinion to shreads. My traxxas cvds where still nice and straight! cvds= best buy ever!!! EVER!!!

  15. #15
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    I had the same question as you about the lights. I bought a set of back lights for the big summit drill 2 extra holes on each side of the bumper and pow lookin good I will try and get some pics up. The front ones were on b/o at my LHS but when they come it will just be a plug and play. I bought the adapter to connect both and made myself up a servo jst? adapter. Works like a charm.

    Heres where I asked the question

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...or-Mini-Summit

    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    I swear Jimmie you must have a special button on your mouse/keyboard with that link
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-11-2012 at 04:24 PM. Reason: post merge
    emaxx 3903

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    I actually have a worksheet with all the important links on it for quick reference.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by arcaptainic View Post
    One other thing that's bad on the summit with a series is the drive shafts. The stock ones with a series connector will snap in the first five minutes unless your driving like a grandma. So good on you for ordering the merv shaft. Stronger and a money saver. If you have the money the Merv steel CVD's from traxxas would also be a great.


    Part Number: 7151X

    quick side note on that

    with the 10mm longer wheel base and the higher stance of the Summit compared to the Revo, on a stock Summit setup these axles are going to CONSTANTLY pop out in the rear... These axles are designed for the Revo's suspension

    even with the Revo P2 rockers installed to lower the truck, I kept having my rear ones pop out all the time. it wasn't until I installed Revo RPM arms all the way around and lost the 10mm in the wheel base that the axles now stay in of course the truck is now just a Revo with a Summit body, lol
    Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 01-11-2012 at 12:40 AM.

  18. #18
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    anyone know if the led roof light bar for the summit will fit the mini?

  19. #19
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    Just thought I would show you this Commander Cody. Back in your first post you were talking about tow hooks and tow shackles. You got me thinking. So I decided to make this mini winch for my mini Summit. Although I'm not sure how I wan't to mount it yet.


  20. #20
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    I'm lovin it! Why not make a bracket out of sheet metal. with as little metal you need it wont be heavy and just use thin steel. cut two plates, drill holes in them and the bumper and bolt them in with a nut and lock washer. then make two L brackets. drill holes in them and mount them with the bolt and nut you used to secure the plates to the bumper. then drill the center of that spool out and push a rod through the L brackets and center of the spool, if you can fine one, use a rod that has cotter pin secires on each side. easily removable if you wanna bash without it. Might be some work, but it would look nice. you could even spray the plates and brackets black to blend better. how did you make that? I might wanna give that build a shot when I get mine

  21. #21
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    I took two "T" nuts and threaded them together.

    "T" nut

    I had to cut the head of a screw so I could thread them together. Then I used some small gauged wire to wrap around to look like galvanized cable. I took an electrical eye lit if you want to call it and cut off part of the loop to make a hook. I then crimped it onto the wire with a pair of pliers and voila, a mini winch.

    Oh and the thread size was 10-24 which is fairly small. The picture makes the t nut look huge. But I think you get the idea when you compere it to the size of the truck.

  22. #22
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    im building a plow tonight i will post pics

  23. #23
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    Would like to see pics of the snow plow for sure
    Let's Go Steelers!!!... KCCO

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