I have some questions for you about painting. I have 2 clear body to paint:
- 1x the Summit clear body
- 1x a Ford F-650 clear body
I will use a Matt Black spray (motip professional) and apply 3 or 4 coats. I'll also use before a high build primer for metal and plastic (dark grey).
Q1 - do I have to paint both side or only the inner side of the body? The primer is dark grey so...
Q2 - do I have to use a degreaser before to clean the bodies or are they ready to paint?
Q3 - how many coats do you recommend?
All recommendations and links to useful forum's thread are welcome
First you have to wash the inside of the body with a sponge and soap (the one for cleaning dishes) when it's dry you, mask the windows and then you can paint-it from the inside. The spray must be for lexan, other way, it will crack, if you want to do it a single color (ex black matt) you don't need nothing else to do, just spray it, keeping a distance of around 15 cm and wait between each coat t'ill its dry i think if you do-it about 7/8 coats it should be enough. Hope this helps.
Thank you Droopy. I bought that one: http://www.motip.nl/motip_upload/lij...EN/WEBL256.pdf
As far as I understand I don't need to use neither grease cleaner to remove some modling oil residues, nore primer because if I use the primer only inside the body, I'll see only the primer color which is dark grey ( http://www.kemtex.be/ecom/product/pr...sgrp=18&lang=3 ). Links are not commercial links but product datasheets.
Do you think this spray is ok? I bought it by a professional automotive parts dealer where I buy lots of tools and products.
Today I received the Robinson Racing Slipper unit Generation 3 ref 7965. Also the center cvd driveshaft. I made 4 videos. Here is the part 1/2 about the 3 slipper units comparison (stock vs heavy duty upgrade over stock vs robinson racing G3 upgrade)
Next videos coming soon
Thank you Droopy, I'll try to find the one you recommend. If you have a link for Europe, a PM would be really welcome
Second part of the video about Slipper units comparison. Unboxing + mounting + side by side comparison
Please help me: I have a question about Robinson Racing pinions and
spurs, Watch my video to see what's the problem. The pinion is not as wide as the spur, is it a problem?
Thanks for your help!!
Pass on the metal spur it will wear out the pinion faster.
what number was the pinion?
Last edited by 87 GN; 01-05-2012 at 01:02 PM.
Would you go flip my truck back over??
On the video, this is the 12T pinion that I put together with the metal spur and the plastic spur.
Part number of the 3 pinions from Robinson Racing that I show into the video:
12T Absolute pinion 32p. hardened (part number Robinson Racing: 1712)
13T Absolute pinion 32p. hardened (part number Robinson Racing: 1713)
14T Absolute pinion 32p. hardened (part number Robinson Racing: 1714)
And the pinion on the Tekin motor is the 14T pinion from Traxxas ( part number: 5640)
Is there another reference by Robinson Racing with larger pinion gears?? It's very difficult to find information on the Robinson Racing's website I maybe made a mistake when ordering the 3 pinions... I really need some support from your side
Part Number: RRP8713
Hardened .8 mod 13T Pinion Gear with 5mm Bore (32 pitch)
that might be why^^
change the last two ## for the tooth count.....12, 13, 14
Last edited by 87 GN; 01-05-2012 at 01:34 PM.
Would you go flip my truck back over??
THANK YOU!! I'll order it immediately. And fI'll make a necklace with the three 17xx pinions... it happens. I worked hard to prepare all these upgrades and to buy the apprioriate parts, this is my first mistake. I hope the only one ^^
2 other videos.
MIP CVD9168 unboxing and assembly + Traxxas center E-Revo steel driveshaft 5650R unboxing and assembly
Thank you Droopy for the warning about the painting spray and also for the recommendation about the appropriate painting for the bodies.
I found in Luxembourg a LHS that I didn't know before, they had Tamiya PS sprays, I bought 2 black, 1 white and 1 for smoking the windows. Also masking tape different sizes to do what I want to. And I also received LOTS of advices from the people @ the LHS (Kit Flammang) about paiting. As you said, paint inside the body, before wash it with dishes cleaner and use the green side of the sponge or very fine sandpaper before painting (except the windows of course), then paint light coat per light coat, darkest colors first, etc... Lot of work but I alreads exactly know how to do and I have the right tools! Thank you for the help!
This afternoon I made some video about transmission disassembly, cleaning, lubricating and assembly. I'm now making video about the diffs. Then I'll make one about the servo and the steering unit (upgrades)
This is a video made specially for a forum member asking for part numbers and video about steering and servo upgrades. I hope this will help some of you a little bit. DON'T buy the same parts as me, there are plenty of other options to do the same thing (other brands, other colors, etc....). But here you can identify each component, how they do fit together and what you would need.
Remember that you can buy one or two upgrade servo and keep all the stock steering components, you only have to buy the Traxxas P/N 5345X : Servo horn stering and throttle (for NON-TRAXXAS servos like Hitec, JR, KO, Aitronics). This Traxxas option part will replace the servo horn or the stock servo, because depending on the manufacturer, the spline number is not always the same (Hitec = 24 spline). But combining plastic + high torque servos is maybe not a good idea, I saw different feed back about that. It's maybe a good idea to keep 1 plastic part but.... why do we need flexibility if we have a spring for that in the servo saver unit? That's why I chose to stick to the aluminium approach, we'll see if it's a good or a bad idea IRL later on.
Yesterday, I made a video about the transmission. How to clean, assemble and lubricate the transmission.
This is the video 1/3. This is the first time ever I do this but I thought about that a long time before doing this. So I was absolutely not lost in the middle of all the parts, and finally it was easier than what I tought.
---> Video 1/3: clean the parts, and assemble the differential from scratch (with my technique to do it).
---> Video 2/3: lubricate and assemble all the parts of the differential. And finish with your hands almost clean (I just thought about mounting to avoid having to put myself full of grease on your hands)
---> Video 3/3: final toughts about transmission, some important things to remember, etc...
Video 2 and 3 will be uploaded soon.
I think your summit will look very much like what I have also planned after watching some of your videos. I think matte black with silver aluminum parts will look very sharp, I am trying to get some custom aluminum "SummitX" signage for the door pannel, died black chassis, wires converted over to black/grey instead of black/red, silver springs, various aluminum, and some other goodies, its a slow and steady process. I enjoy watching your videos, thanks for posting.
I was adding some items into my shopping cart when I had some doubts about the gearing (pinion and spur). I had a look into the forum and saw many different gearing for the Summit with Brushless motor.
I read some threads, this one for example: http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...n+tekin+summit .
I remember the video from larsen8 with the white Summit jumping, and I read that he's planning or already using 15p/60s.
So I already own a Robinson Racing 68T spur (8768) with heavy duty traxxas slipper pads; and a Robinson Racing 65T spur (7965 kit) with the Gen 3 slipper unit. And I'll buy the Gen 3 slipper unit (part number 7960) including the 60T spur.
My question is about the gearing with the Tekin T8 2250KV. I don't want to get crazy top speed, around 30-35mph is enough. I had a look here http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html and I was a little bit lost.... The diff gear ratio is 2.85:1? If yes, with a 15p/60s I could have a maximum theoretical top speed of 38,61mph. Maximum for me, I see what happens with the savage flux at to speed...
So as far as I understood, using a small spur is a good idea to center the motor because the spur is smaller and of course I'll have to put the pinion lower than with a 68T spur. Right?
Then if I have 68 + 65 + 60 spurs, do I really need more than a 15T pinion? What I want to avoid is under or overgearing. It is planned to buy the 11t, 12t, 13t and 14t pinion (robinson racing 8711, 8712, 8713 and 8714). But it's maybe too much right?
68/14 +-= 65/13 = 60/12
Do I have to buy the 4 pinion or may I buy only the 11 and the 14 for example? Is there any risk here to have undergearing?
i have the tekin 2050 Kv, and i use the 14t pinion and 68 spur gear, and i'm happy with the top speed and also the first gear, your motor is more powerful than mine (more Kv and more torque, truggy motor), so i would try the original stock gear and take a look on temp but i think you can run a little shorter gear ratio like 13t and 68. I'm not sure about speed but with lypos and with the brushless, stock geared i'm faster than the stock motor for sure.
scaniris - love the videos and threads - keep it up bro
you stock more parts than most stores!
just a question on the cleaning and lubing of the transmission - are there signs to look out for before cleaning it or a how oftten do people recommend to do it?
p.s your english is good!
@ Droopy: thank you for your feed back. I have bought this afternoon some Robinson Racing pinion and spurs.
1x RRP 8711 : Robinson Racing Xtra Hard 5mm 8 Mod Pinion 11T
1x RRP 8713 : Robinson Racing Xtra Hard 5mm 8 Mod Pinion 13T
1x RRP 8715 : Robinson Racing Xtra Hard 5mm 8 Mod Pinion 15T
1x RRP 7960: Robinson Racing Generation 3 Slipper Unit 60T
Then I also bought the Traxxas T-Max break disc ( P/N: 4056 correct p/n is 4964) to try this instead of the 3 slipper pads stock or heavy duty. This tip was given by ksb51rl on another topic, I just want to try it because I'm curious and because it's very cheap. I'll make a video of course
Today I already have:
1x RRP 7965: Robinson Racing Generation 3 Slipper Unit 65T
1x RRP 8768: Robinson Racing Hardened Steel spur 68T
2x TRX 5640: Traxxas 14T pinion
1x TRX 5352R: Traxxas rebuilt kit heavy duty slipper clutch with aluminium friction pads
So finally I'll be able to test multiple configuration with 11T, 13T, 14T and 15T pinion, and with 60T, 65T and 68T spurs, with heavy duty friction pads, or break disk, or Gen3 HD slipper unit from RR.
Remember: DON'T do the same mistake as I did.... DON'T buy the 17xx pinions from Robinson Racing, they are not as large as the spur gears and will wear out faster (see comments from 87GB some messages before).
@ jungletreker: there is a small plastic part that you can remove to check inside the trany, 2 screws to remove to open this small ''window'', this is on the trany housing on the motor/spur side. You'll see 2 cap head black screws near to the border of the motor mounting plate. But.... opening the trany is a mater of minutes. Unscrew the 4 screws under the chassis, remove 1 screw to disassemble the motor, then remove one nut to remove the spur/slipper clutch, and you'll be able to remove the 6 or 8 screws to open the trany housing. If you do it for the first time, you'll need more time of course. But the next time you'll do it, it will be faster of course.
IMO, if you can gear some strange/anormal noises out of the tranny when turning the trany shafts to move the inner gears, or if you feel some resistance when turning the input/output shafts, it's time to open it and check what's wrong. But personnally, I'll do like I do with other products (electronic, tools, etc...): PREVENTIVE maintenance on a regular basis, frequency to be defined but I would say every x hours of use, or after some intensive bashing. But it's my personal view on that question... because I have SO MUCH FUN working on the Summit I can understand that others want to reduce as much as possible the time spent to repair/maintain the truck. It's up to you
Last edited by ksb51rl; 01-20-2012 at 11:41 PM.
Looking forward for the next update!
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New videos coming soon (made this week end):
- wheels wobbling: how to avoid, what to check, upgrade opportunities
- MIP CVD driveshafts assembly with how to Loctite (red AND blue), how to prepare parts for loctite, how to assemble
- servo horns for Hitec 7950TH: stock Hitec alu vs GH alu vs Hudy alu
- how to fix hollow ball loose @ end of toe link into the GH aluminium servo saver unit
- how to make easily a protection plate for a single servo setup (to close the empty 2nd servo area)
Coming in a week or less:
- Drawings (proposition) for connecting 2x 2S Lipo / Tekin RX8 / Tekin T8 / CC Bec 10A / Stock RX / Hitec Servo
- Video about soldering and cabling (maybe)
- Video about gearing
- Video or screen shots about programming Tekin RX8 / Hitec Servo / Castle BEC
- body painting / preparation (masking etc...) Ford F650 body with eRevo mounting parts, and stock Summit clear body paiting
Last edited by Scaniris; 01-17-2012 at 09:58 AM.
New video about HUDY Servo Horn that fits PERFECTLY into my setup (Hitec 7950TH + full aluminium steering servo saver unit and steering arm)
This is an add on to my previous video about aluminium steering parts and servo upgrade.
Wheels wobbling issues: what to check and how to fix it
Video about how to make a plastic washer to fill the gap between hollow ball and aluminium steering parts
MIP CVD9168 assembly - new video with the use of Loctite Red and Blue plus Loctite cleaner. And comments about assembly instructions, special precautions before using it into the Summit, etc...
I also checked the angle and as Summitcrawler said in another topic ( http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5019017 ) , if you choose the higher ride setup, you reach the maximum allowable angle of the CVD9168 kit (see assembly instructions) if using in combination with the 120LT rockers. So.... it's a good idea to stick with stock Summit ride height (middle hole for mounting the push rods) and also to make sure that the steering blocks are properly assembled (pivot balls into the a-arms, pivot ball caps well tightened not too much not too loose, wheel hex hub well attached).
Something IMPORTANT: DO NOT use the screws delivered with the MIP CVD kit to assemble it on the differential output shafts. The screws do not fit into the holes on the output shafts of the diffs, it's just 1mm inside then it's not possible to screw it more... So I removed the screws from the stock axle driveshafts, use the Loctite cleaner an then re-applied some additional blue Loctite 243 to lock the screw.
My 2 cents.
Last edited by Scaniris; 01-17-2012 at 12:56 PM.
How to make a protection plate for a single servo setup (to close the empty 2nd servo area). Easy and quick. You can paint it or dye it if you want (I'll maybe to it)
Hi Scaniris! Did you waterproof the servo useing Plasti-Dip? (You didn't use a man sock, right? )
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I'll do it probably but BEFORE I'll test it on the track and then if everything works fine I'll plasti-dip it. Do you imagine if there is any problem out of the box, I want to return the servo to get a new one (warranty). If I waterproof it before testing it and if there is any problem, no warranty and I'll not know it the problem is because of the waterproofing or because of a DOA issue. I have plasti dip (spray, black) and liquid tape. I'll probably use plasti dip, I seen a video (squirell) and I think the coating is lighter when using the spray, but enough to waterproof it.
Clever, very clever! Thanks Scaniris!
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This week end it's time to solder I also received my pinions and new spurs and gen3 slippers from Robinson Racing I'll probably be able to run my truck for the first tests in a couple of days But now I'm finalizing the cabling, have a look here: http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...Servo-Stock-RX (I made diagrams for 3 scenario)
A little tips for avoiding to bind the wires on the SPC 8.2Ah: cut the battery vents. Sorry for the bad quality of the pictures.
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I know this workaround, but for the moment I'll wait until I receive silver aluminium battery compartment door (Golden Horizon, useless upgrade but sooo cute) so I'll see if I need or not to mod the vents.
I had a technical issue with a Dead on Arrival (or broken during soldering process) RX8 ESC. So I can't use my combo even after having soldered everything. But anyway, warranty should apply and I'll receive a brand new one as soon as possible (bought this combo in UK by a well know reseller).
So to summarize what I did this week end (electronic), I've soldered and attached all the electronic components. And except the technical problem with a dead ESC (Tekin RX8), it works
I've drawn some diagram with Visio this evening to summarize lots of different information I've read here are elsewhere. This is the solution I've chosen:
---> Scenario 1:
CC BEC attached directly to the Hitec 7950TH Servo
CC BEC output voltage set @ 7,4V to get maximum servo torque
Tekin RX8 + Tekin T8 2250KV Truggy
Traxxas EVX-2 + Traxxas Titan 775 (works same way with the Traxxas stock motor + esc combo, except the cabling between batteries and esc, and between ESC and Motor, but I'll make some other drawings to summarize the same scenario with stock Summit esc/motor)
It is also possible to do the 2 other scenarii:
---> Scenario 2:
CC BEC connected to the RX
CC BEC output voltage set around 6,4V (please ADVISE ME about maximum voltage that the RX can handle...)
Capacitor to handle peaks. I have 1000uV but also 4700uV capacitors (both 10V of course)
---> Scenario 3:
No external BEC
ESC BEC supplies power to RX and to servos via RX
Capacitor to handle peaks and avoid ESC issues
I'll make some video later about soldering, cabling, setup, and I'll also make the same drawings but with Traxxas ESC/Motor.
Next step: sending the Tekin combo to the seller for warranty and support. And meanwhile I'll be happy to run the Traxxas motor and ESC!! I'll maybe buy some Dewalt motor, I'm now feeling very comfortable with soldering
Coming upgrades (ordered yesterday, coming in 5 to 10 days from Canada and USA):
Golden Horizon Racing Aluminium servo guards
Golden Horizon Racing Aluminium motor mounting plate
Golden Horizon Racing Aluminium battery compartment doors
Lunsford Titanium Rocker Pivot Post Set (LNS7606)
Lunsford Traxxas Revo Titanium Hinge Pin Kit (12) (LNS3805)
I'll make a video about the Traxxas Brake disc PN 4964 (thank you ksb51rl for correcting the wrong part number, I've ordered the good one but wrote a wrong reference in my message ), how it fits into the stock Summit slipper unit. I've also received all my pinions and spurs and slipper, I'll make a small video about that too to compare motor position depending on gearing.
I've planned to rit dye my second chassis next week. And start the masking of my Summit's clear bodyshell. I found a good painter for the Ford F-650, I hope we'll find some good commercial agreement because the design I'm expecting for the Ford bodyshell is too complex (need long time for preparation) and I want it to be done by a skilled painter.
Yep. Some other stuffs in preparation. Hand made gears in hardened steel for my diffs for example. Snow chains are ready... but there isn't any snow here ^^ so... next year maybe to use them? (snif).
Lots of projects. But now I'm looking forward to drive my modified Traxxas, even with the stock ESC and Motor. It's finally not too bad having this problem with the Tekin ESC, I'll be able to fine tune all my upgrades and prepare the truck for the big jump
If you have any further recommendations for upgrade I should try, you're welcome of course!! I'm considering to buy a GoPro HD2 to make some videos on the field... we'll see.
Next video coming soon
Painting is not very hard. Look at this video series:
I just love liquid masking...
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Some people are reporting issues with the Parma liquid masking. And I have a very good tape, highly flexible, and easy to cut accurately for designing the painting. I'll do it for my second Summit body. But for the Ford body, I want something very special and it would be too time consuming for me as a beginner. We'll see. I'll make the Summit body first. But for the Ford... I'll probably ask a skilled painter.
Well I also bought some other parts:
GH 120LT Silver Aluminium rockers (I forgot to mention this yesterday). Only for... the design
Castle Creation BEC PRO 20A and a second BEC 10A. I want to try something with the pro version (I'll tell more about that later), and have a spare for the standard version.
I have a problem with the Dewalt moto purchase. I bought it on eBay yesterday from UK, the part number 579724-04 (replacement of the old version 396505-21) but the seller did not replied with the shipment fees... and I didn't found this motor elsewhere on eBay in Europe. I bought the brushes from USA, but the motor... looks like I'll have to buy it from USA or to ask my local professional tools supplier. Well... it's a detail but I don't like seller who do not reply to questions.
Then... I'm also discussing with Georg from Truckmonster to buy hand made built to order gears for my diffs. It's expensive for a small quantity... I'll maybe create a new thread to ask if people are interested in this project. I think I'll do it even if I'm alone. I want to get hardened steel gears for the diffs. And I received the prices this evening. Expensive.... but also not that much regarding the work to make them.
Here is what I want to upgrade:
I think I'll go for the Priority 1 + 2 gears. I'm not sure that I'll ask him to make the Priority 3 gear. The most critical and often broken are the prio 1 and 2 (broken teeth).
I already have the answer for the housing: it is not possible to get some in aluminium or hardened steel. Because of time, price and also of patent (seems to be an issue).
I'll continue the discussion with Georg (this is the guy who make the aluminium diff cups in Germany), and maybe create a project thread to ask if some other people are interested in it.
I use Bob Dively liquid masking. No problems. Painting is really funny! I have not tried very high quality tape, but liquid masking is so easy.
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