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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    e-revo to e-slayer?

    hey everyone names kenny, im over in the maxx section mostly. but i want to build something new and i was wondering if i could turn a e-revo into an e-slayer? i figure that way i can convert it back if i ever want to and i want something electric so i could run it indoors. plus i figure it couldnt hurt to have the duel servo steering and all the benefits of the revo design.
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  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Absolutely you can, Slayer bumpers, a-arms and drive-shafts get the chassis converted. Add a body (might have to drill new holes out back) and some SC tires or 1/8 buggy rubber and you are rocking.
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  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    im asking these questions because i basically want to build the most bad a** e-slayer i can, and its to my understanding i can use the e-revo chassis. and i know the revo has really good handling so thats why i want to use it as a base line. and most of my sites i have saved are all for t-maxx trucks so i was hoping you guys good recomend the best of the best parts for this.
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  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cameron View Post
    Absolutely you can, Slayer bumpers, a-arms and drive-shafts get the chassis converted. Add a body (might have to drill new holes out back) and some SC tires or 1/8 buggy rubber and you are rocking.

    so are the chassis for the revo and the slayer the same other than the fact that the revo is a duel servo steering setup? does the body have to be for a slayer? or is a slash body the same size? i seen a nice one from proline for a slash i really liked.
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  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Technically they regular slayer chassis is a dual steering servo as well but the old 2.5 chassis slayer has the Revo Platinum receiver boxes so it sorta covers one of the slayer steering servo spots.
    E-revo is plastic chassis of course and the body posts are inexplicably about 3/8" farther apart. All that means is you have to drill the rear holes differently, not an issue unless you are using a Precut/Drilled traxxas shell. I want to say that any Short Course shell for a 1/10 will fit. I just installed slayer pro arms on the ERBE chassis for an onroad project but here you can see how the E-revo chassis looks with the slayer arms.


    Different angle, ignore the body (thats not an SC body )
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  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    An E-slayer is actually my backup plan for this build if the ERBE-GT doesn't happen (although the body fits so i think im ok)
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  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    ok, so how bad is it convert a slayer to an e-slayer then? because i cant find a new e-revo roller chassis but i can find a slayer pro chassis roller brand new on the bay for $220. or is it not possible to go from a nitro to electric on a slayer?
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  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    If you want to keep the Aluminum slayer chassis you can do a Tekno conversion. The Revo kit will work on the Slayer pro chassis no problem.


    That's the tekno conversion setup on my old conversion build.
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  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    this one?

    http://www.teknorc.com/product_info....177fda5cbdc477

    so what exactly all comes with this kit? it seems a bit pricey unless im missing something.
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  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    That would be the kit, here is a picture of what all you get with the kit.
    Its nice of them to NOT show it all and ask $140 for it lol


    The bagged piece is a duplicate piece that i have that's the actual motor mount. You get the battery tray, straps, receiver box (takes away the dual servo option), ESC mount plate, Motor mount bracket and the Motor can mount.
    They are pricey but can be had cheaper but they are arguably better than any other option out there.
    Last edited by Cameron; 10-14-2011 at 02:07 AM.
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  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    do they still handle good with only 1 servo? just get a good hi torque im assuming? pm sent
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  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    i have never had an issue with single servos, but i dont race either. that said i do have decent servos in place. hitec 7955tg savox 1256tg to name a couple.
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  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    i dont know that i would be racing for sure, im about to graduate college and would have to find somewhere near me. but i have a 3.3 4907 maxx set up for racing. problem with that is very few places run nitro indoor. and the reason i dont want to just get a slash is i want the handling and suspension design of the revo aka the slayer. see where im going with this? lol i will probly just be doing some bashing for the most part with it but ill race when i can. i wont be to rough since i have a t-maxx just for fun as well. so thats the one that sees the big jumps lol. like the creek behind my house at college
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  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    trick with the servos is, a single 2075 will work, but it will fail at some point pushing the tires, bright side is the tires you are looking at are smaller less rolling resistance etc so the 2075 would last but stepping up to a savox 1256tg for example boosts the torque way up and you will have less issues for sure. But now you're looking at a $90 servo vs a $35. so its 6 in one hand half a dozen in the other.
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  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    ok so you think the 2075 will last a decent while only pushing the smaller tires of the sct? i was looking at a hi-tech servo for like $30 which was stronger than the 2075. maybe $40 but cant remember.
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  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    The 2075 will work for a while. Then again it could surprise ya and last for quite a while. Its waterproof too if that's a cosideration for you.
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  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    true. i might go that route for the water proof part alone. but then again i might get a better one and just make it waterproof lol. we will see when i get to that point though. but i apritiate the help man. thats why i love this forum, people are so helpful. so i always try n do the same.

    but anyway im glad to hear any tips and ideas you have for my build since you have already done one. im completely new when it comes to hobby grade electric rc's. plus ive never really messed with a slayer what so ever either.
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  18. #18
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    One thing that hasn't been mentioned and I'm not positive of is that if you do use a revo chassis I believe the diff ratios are different between the revo and the slayer because the slayer has a much smaller tire diameter stock so putting sc tires on will give you a less than desirable top speed on the revo platform

  19. #19
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    And i don't want to steal the thread but what's involved in putting revo a arms on a slayer pro? Just the arms? Or pushrods and so forth?

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Arms pushrods, toelinks and drive shafts.
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  21. #21
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    Revo to Slayer and back again is super easy guys.

    Only diff between a Revo 3.3 and a Slayer Pro 4x4 is the arms, pushrods, toe links, outer driveshafts, bumper and body. There are a few smaller differences such as different springs and shock pistons, and a little bit different clutchbell/spur gearing. (That's where the speed is made up for the smaller tires, not in the differential.)

    Only difference in an E-Revo and Revo 3.3 is the chassis, center shafts, and trans. Obviously motor and esc... Oh, and E-Revo is about 5mm longer.

    I took one of my ERBE's, added the Slayer Pro 4x4 arms, pushrods, turnbuckles and bumpers, slapped in the E-Revo center diff, a set of 1/8 scale HB d8 diffs, some Kershaw Designs center shafts, cut Summit outer shafts, a stock Slayer Pro 4x4 body (drilled two new front body post holes), some buggy sized Pro-Line rubber on 17mm AKA buggy wheels, and some Tekno sway bars, and called it good!

    I had to do some suspension tuning to get it handling right using the Revo springs and shock pistons, but now that truck handles like a dream! Hangs with my buddies sc8e no problem. I also replaced the diff cup that comes in the center diff, with one that belongs in the front rear (has the extra bracing). And with the steel centers, Summit outer shafts, and 1/8 front/rear diffs, it's a tough, durable truck. Has handled the MMM/2200kv on 6s no problem, although I normally run that truck on 4s.
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  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    thanks for the tips. but now that i know the slayer is already almost identical to the revo im just going to start with a slayer chassis since i couldnt really find a revo roller on ebay anyway.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 08kgraves View Post
    thanks for the tips. but now that i know the slayer is already almost identical to the revo im just going to start with a slayer chassis since i couldnt really find a revo roller on ebay anyway.
    hey dude theres a revo roller in the MP $140
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  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    well i dont have the cash right this second and i had a guy pm about a slayer roller or whole car for sale so im gonna pursue that first so i dont have to change as many parts over. then my gear ratio would be correct to.
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  25. #25
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    But you will have to change over a lot of parts to have a durable brushless converted truck.

    You'll have to buy a pinion whichever way you look at it. So gearing will be off either way.

    By converting a nitro truck to electric, you'll have to spend either the $140 for the Tekno R/C conversion kit, or buy the RCM motor mount, and figure out how to mount your batteries yourself, or figure both out yourself.

    The nitro Revo/Slayer transmission is a lot weaker than the E-Revo/Maxx transmission (not the 3906 Maxx). You'll need to do a big pin mod, and convert to single speed at the least. On my old Revo Platinum conversion, I did big pin, single speed, and full RR steel gears. After all that, your trans can now hold up to an MMM combo, but the center of gravity is still higher with the motor being high up off on the left rear corner, while ur batteries are up high on the right center (if using Tekno kit).

    It really is a better, easier option to buy an E-Revo roller. So you have to buy some A-arms, bumpers, and driveshafts. Still cheaper than the Tekno kit alone, and that's not even getting started on the nitro tranny!
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  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    well when you say it like that it does make more sense to start with an e-revo roller over a slayer.
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  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    so would i be fine with a e-revo roller, or would i need the strength of a e-revo brushless?
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  28. #28
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    Only difference between a brushed and brushless Revo is the motor/esc obviously, and the motor mount plate. Single on the brushless, dual on the brushed. Same diffs, driveshafts, transmission....

    I can't remember, but the brushed version "might" have 14mm wheel hubs. Which is good if you want to run short course wheels/tires. Brushless will have 17mm for sure, great for slapping in buggy wheels/tires.

    Oh, and you can always cut the Revo outer driveshafts down to size, saving a little cash there, and getting a stronger driveshaft than the Slayer ones. I cut down some Summit shafts myself, because they're stronger than Revo shafts, and I had them lying around.

    What motor/esc are you planning on running in this truck?
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  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    not 100% sure yet, but maybe the momba monster 2200kv combo. probly doesnt help that i dont know a single thing about electric rc's though lol
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  30. #30
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    MMM/2200kv combo is an awesome setup in my E-Slayer and my E-Revo. I run an MMM/1800kv combo in my E-Maxx. A little bit more budget friendly option might be an MMP/2400kv combo. I ran one in my Slash 4x4 and loved it. About to drop the same setup into my Rustler. Another good setup might be an MMP/2200kv combo. That's how the sc8e comes stock, and it's a 1/8 scale short course. A 2650kv motor would do well also, if you limited it to 4s, same with the 2400kv. They could run 5 or 6s, but would probably run hot.
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  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    ok thanks for the options. by the sounds of this deal i might be getting its going to be worth it for me to get a slayer pro. complete and run it as is for a while before i start the electric conversion. or i could get it as a roller for real cheap.
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  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    ok so this deal is sounding more and more sure for this slayer pro. so what good upgrades are available for these? i know nothing about slayers. can u get rpm a arms for them? i was looking on there sight but i didnt see a slayer option.
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  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    question. could i just get a mounter mount off of a e-revo as well to use?
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  34. #34
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    Rpm doesn't make arms for the Slayer, I haven't broken one yet. But then again, I didn't really build my E-Slayer to be a sky high jumper. I've got Revo's and Maxx's for that.

    E-Revo motor mount attaches to the transmission, not the chassis like a nitro truck. And it will not bolt up to the Nitro Revo/Slayer transmission.
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  35. #35
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    ok got ya, so if i just ran a slayer stock for now then bought a e-revo transmission for the extra strengh with brushless i could do it then?
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  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    no the Nitro and Electric revo transmissions are different. You are rather committed either way.

    For the best gearing scenario, i would really recommend the Slayer or Slayer Pro roller given the fact the slayer transmission is geared internally for the smaller tires. Add an Electric conversion to that roller. Take the slayer front and rear differentials out and replace them with E-revo differentials. Find a way to lock the transmission into 2nd gear, not sure if you will be able to get your hands on a lock that was produced by Oomp a few years back unless you can track down a used one somewhere. Oomp isn't making anymore of them as it is certainly not cost effective. But that route is the easiest way to do it, there are other options though.
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  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    ok, figured i would ask alot of questions about things i dont know. cant learn any other way

    but someone pm'd me about a slayer pro so it looks like i will be getting that for almost certain. either as a roller with no engine, electronics or radio equipment for $125 plus shipping or as a whole with no radio equipment for $200 shipped. so im pretty excited lol. probly gonna be as a whole and just run it as is for a while and get all my parts before converting.
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  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    $200 for an add your own Tx/Rx ARTR Truck is a decent price. Plus it leaves you the option to swap back and forth.
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  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    yup. he doesnt know how much fuel has been ran through the engine but said it runs just as strong as his revo 3.3 which has a new engine with less than a gallon.
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  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    my thoughts on used nitro engines is assume they are toast, that way if you run a gallon+ through them after buying them you got a wicked deal lol. but i swapped to electric exclusively now so i don't have that problem anymore.
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