Got me emax just a few weeks ago and
Broke the right front suspension arm. Is there
any step by step instructions available
to replace it? It looks fairly easy but it would save
me a lot if time not guessing how to do it in proper
Order. Thanks for any help.
Welcome to the club, that was the first thing I replaced on mine. There's not an "official" guide but it's pretty easy:
1. Remove tire, hex adapter and pin
2. Remove shock
3. Disconnect steering linkage and Pillow Balls from Axle Carrier
4. Separate the Axle Carrier from the Axle Stub and set aside
5. Remove the E-Clips from one side of the A-Arm. If the pins arenít bent, you can reuse them.
6. Gently tap the pins out. If you donít have anything else, you can use another hinge pin to give it a push. Be careful not to damage the pin. If the original pins are really messed up, you may have to pull it out with vice grips or use an old pin to tap it out.
7. If youíre using stock A-Arms set the Caster Spacers aside Ė remember which position theyíre in.
8. Now that itís disassembled, inspect the area for any damage. If everything checks out, now is a good time to see if the pins slide into the bulkhead without any resistance (I did this last night and found out that my bulkhead was starting to deform where I bent the pin).
Follow the directions in reverse & make sure to use your exploded diagrams for a reference.
the easiest way i have found to do this is to remove the whole front or rear broken section form the chassis, take off the skid plate, undo the drive axel, PULL SUSPENSION APART, undo the shocks from the broken side, remove the bumper and the bottom screws from the cross brace on the broken side to shift the bumper bracket up and out of the way, then it should be easy access to the control arm screws and spacers with no problem.
it should just pull ways from the axel carrier once you remove the hubs or adaptors.
then reverse order to put back on.......
now this is not the only way to do this, there are other ways, and im sure it could be done without taking it off the chassis, but its just the way i rather do the job. easier for me.....
Last edited by seventwo99; 06-12-2011 at 07:43 PM.
Thank you for the input. Should I buy the upgraded suspension arms while I have it apart?
I don't remember hitting anything very hard so I don't know
Why it broke. I certaintly didn't "T" bone anything.
Good point. That would make it easier. I was thinking about the actual procedure, not getting everything out of the way first.
kirwinjd - If you have a habit of breaking things (like some of us) then that might be the way to go. Personally, I have all RPM A-Arms. Just to be on the safe side, it's always a good idea to have spare hinge pins.
Last edited by GaiginRC; 06-12-2011 at 08:05 PM. Reason: More Info
I usually pul the entire end I am working on also. Just makes it easier for me.
I highly recomend RPM A-arms, great stuff and have a lifetime warranty. I keep one extra set (1upper 1 lower) to swap on, then return the broken piece to the LHS.
You don't have to hit anything substantial to break these thing's, they weigh 12-13 lbs and go a good 20 mph even in stock form. And they are made out of plastic by and large lol.
Thanks again everyone. I bought the better arms today.
front lower arm was the first break on my emaxx
Slash 3s 2150kv
Mod1 27/36 61mph
take the one screw that goes into the arm from the carrier and then take off the hinge pin and then undo the shocks and your done simplest way to do
I never had a problem with A-Arms breaking, the pins always broke first for me. And it's almost impossible to break a RPM arm, especially if you have the stock brushed system. Just relise that you go from 4 mounting posistions to 3 and the shock screws have been known to strip out of the RPM plastic on ocassion.
This parrot is NO MORE!!! This is an ex-parrot!!!