Posting this pic as a response to someones ques on how to fix the RPM wheelie bar mount crooked problem. Before I do so, Its way dissapointing that RPM didnt get that one right. Dont quiet understand how they would mess this one up and still not fix the issue. My major thing is when getting an alum tranny, gotta make sure this screw hole is this width, because if its stock this same problem will happen and cant just dremel it away nicely like you can with the plastic one. At least I wouldnt want to...
Okay.. So here is the solution. Put up the RPM mount up to it, and the right side against the tranny as if you were screwing it in. Itl basically show you where it wants to sit to make it straight. This is about half way, as you see here. I then just used a cutting wheel, and dremeled it down to the width it wants to go. Also, the screw inverted makes it much easier where instead of awkwardly tightening the nut with the traxxas tool provided. Which is a pain, this way I can just tighen and loosen easily with my long nut driver, or the same nut driver that is in the trx kit that is also used to tighten the wheel, and not the wrench looking one.
Hehe.. look how dirty she is... boo ya... time for a cleaning. Next time though, I am for SURE thinly brush coating it in WD-40 so the dirt doesnt stick. makes such a huge diff.
Did you use Revolver "Front" wheels on all 4 corners?
For the front. Stock size 69mm After Pro. 80mm
Rear. Stock: 80mm After Protrac 82mm
Turnbuckles. Stock 96mm after pro, 107mm
Memba that is bolt to bolt. Here is a video that is great help. On this video he says the link sizes, but its end to end. So it wasnt all that helpful when I was trying to fiqure out link sizes. But helpful very video regardless. If you have any ques when ya get the Protrac, gimme a holla.
I got my Protrac kit today but I'm waiting on a few other items to show like blue caster blocks and the ST Racing Lock Nut type hinge pin kit because I'm sick of the stock pins working their way loose all the time. I've also got RPM front bearing carriers coming and the RPM Slash front bumper. I'm probably gonna pull the trigger on new shocks too since Integy will not return my emails for the replacement part I need for one shock so I'm probably gonna just get Traxxas Big Bore shocks for it or I might splurge for the ProLine shocks.
I'll use the links that came with the kit because I'm OK with it. I'm doing most of my metal/alum. parts in blue. I'm gonna order Masher tires and new wheels for it also.
Man that sounds exactly how i want to set up my pede. All blue parts with the proline shocks and protrac kit, with the mashers and the revolver rims.
Nice bro. Ya integy really needs to get thier stuff together. I have some blue cambers thats gonna go on the 2nd blue/rpm pede. That one is gonna be built from left overs of this build so im almost there, and il let family drive and stuff. Ya, my screws coming off is getting old too. I dont know how threadlock reacts in plastic. I love the proline powerstrokes but they are so pricey. Think im gonna get bigbores, or... get red alum housings for these so they stop leaking and tin shafts along with RPM shock pistons. Your truck will be twinzies with mine
thats one awesome build
Race Rustler 18/84
All the rest of my parts should be here today and then I make the transformation. Still got a few items I want to get like an ST Racing front bulkhead, RC Screws kit, the RPM adjustable front and rear body mounts and the Masher tires along with some wheels that I just haven't decided on yet. Anyone bought thru RC Planet? They seem to have a great selection and good prices. I think i've looked at just about all of them.
Ya brotha. They are "no" good. and u will hear the same fromt EVERYbody.. that and their parts are very low quality... suck. The rpm front mount is awesome. It'll lower your body an inch which is perfect! made mine look so much better. and the mount looks good. As for the rear RPM mount, dont waiste your money. It looks funny with the front one. Makes the body lean forward and the adjustable things like stick down in the middle of the fender so it doesnt look good. The front RPM , with rear stock looks excellent. My RPM rear is sitting in my spare parts box brand new. Check out my pics with the body on the side, and see how the diff is. Its nice, and looks way more agressive. Plus wont act as a parachute on jumps and such. Ive heard a low body also helps stability.
Does the Drag links (part3941) only work on the protrac setup? I got RPM arm and was wonderin if i could use 3941 on my pede?
I think the size different but i think the links are adjustable 2? just lookin for stronger setup wit links. Thanks
does part 3941 only werk with protrac setup? Got rmp and just looking for stronger links
na they are adjustable. They are hiding the threads, but na. The RPM arms u got, they the wides? or the stock width. If they are the stock width, tons of options available. Strongest things out there are the titanium lunsford links. The 3941 i used cuz with protrac its 11mm wider. Tons of options for ya though.
THanks . Nice TRUCK. I can tell that your baby.
Thanks man. Ya she definatly is. What arms did u get btw? wide or stock width?
AbsoLoot, that is an inspiring build. Think I'll go build a second pede now!
1 extended pede
1 stock length pede
Check this out btw. This was my truck with stock width, and I had changed it around a bit so that the cambers would show more alum, so changed thier orientation, and I added short rod ends to them. More like the old style before traxxas changed thier links to have the longer rod ends to shift the energy more towards the middle, and have more thread. As long as your not beating your truck up big time, either one is great and plenty strong. But this is how it "was" stock length. I really liked the all red setup showing lots of aluminum, and my rustler is gonna have this same thing.
Funny thing if you noticed, if you go on traxxas site, and look up their alum links, This is the pic they have. They have of course changed it to ones with the bigger rod ends, and the new style front ones shows little plastic.
This question came up on the thread, so Im posting the reply on here for when this gets spotted. the turnbuckles I used, are unique in I found out about them in my long search for Red alum turnbuckles that would fit with the Protrac. Which there is not... Trust me I looked. and got real close but something did work right in the solution I found. I am realy happy with the look and strenght of these because they are the perfect size for this and hide the threads. But of course they are still there for adjustability. these are 72mm metal length (without thread) as Traxxas lists their links. (notice stock red alum are 61mm in metal length(minus threads) so +11 mm worked perfect for the protrac kit.
QUOTE=rimike4;4749257]I am looking to strengthen my steering by adding aluminum turnbuckles and camber links. I saw how someone used EMAXX Drag links for turnbuckles Part 3941 but my only question is will that only work on protrac setup because it is longer and wider?
i know the turnbuckles are adjustable but stock pede 78mm part (2326)up front.
Any knowledge or advice on better steering would be appriciated. thanks MPA[/QUOTE]
It was me brotha. Actually the ques your asking is what i used "because" of the protrac kit. The only reason why I used it, was it because its the perfect size. Its just like the regular modern traxxas steel links used also for camberlinks. They are very strong. Its the perfect size of whats needed with protrac kit. the stock size, bolt to bolt is 96 mm. with the protrac its 107mm. The part number 3941 is like 106-107. it was perfect.
Jones buddy this is the standard traxxas steel links. They are not the tube links, or the ones special for the Maxxs' Its exaclty the same as regular camber links, it was just the size listed perfect for maxxs steering drag links. Only thing stronger than the modern 4mm wide traxxas links with long rod ends, are lunsford titanium turnbuckles. But really no need for em. Alum are also plenty stong. Not as strong as traxxas steel, or Lunsford. Traxxas used to have alum tbs, with short rod ends and longer alum, but they would have an issue with how much thread they had and where the pressure is. Now a days, they have the longer plastic rod ends that shifts the point of impact and now they are really strong. But even with short rod end set-up they are still very strong. They have held up awesome for me, and Threadedend also is a fan of them and they have held up to his abuse as per stated by him. Alum is there for strength, along with looks when it comes to the camberlinks. Alum is the "best" place for shockcaps, and bulkhead. few other places its for strength, and looks too. But here is my set-up and its really strong, this is where u saw the steering drag links for turnbuckles. Its only because its the perfect size. Its not any differnt than the steel camberlinks that come on the VXLs that are also way tough too.
Traxxas used to have like 2.5 or 3mm links and they were reallly weak and thin, and bent easy. Now they use the same as their cambers so they are all equally as strong. The quote to where using TBs as camber links isnt good isnt accurate "anymore" they are all the same thing, just differnt sizes. The same thing applies to alum, This is what traxxas alum camberlinks used to look like. This is off thier site too when i pulled it 3 months ago.
This is what thier modern camberlinks look like. Same size, but notice the size of the rod ends.
But.... As for the protrac, thats a diff thing. Heres your options with Protrac. The full kit " comes " with all the links you need, and they look like this. I myself, didnt like the color of them as they are more of a untreated steel look, more of a stainless steel color.
Option 2 are custom lunsford links, you can get sizes that are either long TBs with short rod ends or... u can get shorter links, and put on longer rod ends. (with whatever link, longer rod ends are strongest) same thing applies to alum.
Now.... 3 option is Alum, and then u have a few when it comes to the turnbuckles. If you have the protrac, you will need to diff ones for the protrac. You will need 61mm. Which is the red alum TBs, changed to go in the front. Here you will put short rod ends. and you will need 59mm for the back with long rod ends. As for the turnbuckles. You do the same as with the lunsford. Either get longer links, You will need " about" 98 mm with short rod ends, or you will need short links with longer rod ends. This is anouther reason why I went with the traxxas 3941. They have the thread, and are perfectly adjustable, but... Notice it doesnt show any threads, So my rod ends are all the way threaded on my links for my turnbuckles and they are super strong.
These are a pic of the 3941s
Oh... Now. Here is a link to what is used. You have see here that the threads are showing and they are adjustable. AND... most importantly. "just" like the alum up top of the pics I showed of the updated links, Traxxas updated these too, and added the longer rod ends instead of what u see in this pic. But notice, they are still 3941s..
What Jones meant earlier, where drag links are "sometimes" weak are these here. They are also 3941, but one is 3941 and other is 3941 xs.. These ones here are "NOT" like the camber links u see above, and THESE are weak because they are a 5mm round tube design, because they only need to have pulling power of the drag links back and forth. They dont need to perform like out turnbuckles do, but traxxas offers this 2nd non-alum option of course. Notice my 3941s, vs the ones in the towerhobbies link and thier rod ends. When u got to the Hobby Store, and pick up the 3941s.. You will get what u see on my truck. The stainless steel, Long plastic rod end Steel Links.
These are the Red, "tube" not strong for turnbuckle drag links you dont want.
Note: I found all this out btw, when I was looking for Red alum Turnbuckles after I installed my protrac. Its not available. Those where the closest I got, and that is why I found all this out, and found out about the "STEEL" steering drag links.
Last but not least, Here are the sizes you will need for all your links. This is bolt to bolt. So mounting point to pointing point, not overall length, or just the inside part of it that traxxas lists thier sizes under.
Stock Front. 69mm After protrac 80mm
Turnbuckles Stock 96mm After protrac 107mm
Rear Stock 82mm - after protrac 85mm
Which links I used. Alum links for the protrac
For the front im using the 61mm alum red links. (these are the stock size red alum Turnbuckles. )
with short rod ends. part number 3139x
Rear im using thier 49mm with long rear ends. This is stock rear red alum links that comes in 3741x normally for the rear.
Also picked up trx #5347 which are revo rod ends. Same thing but this paskage comes with both short and long rod ends. Both listed as "large" because they are the 4mm width which is also used on the VXL steel links
Turnbuckles of course " I " used traxxas 3941. 72mm links with long rod ends.
Ha your telling me i went out and bought the protrac cause of this thread
Hey absoloot heres those pictures, let me know if you need anymore.
I took a bunch more if you need lol
I'm not super happy with my RPM front bearing carriers. The bearings don't fit in them very snug so the axle has quite a bit of movement up and down. I contacted them and they told me to send them in but for the $8 I paid for them, I'll just either shim them or get something else. The stock ones held the bearings tighter, even after tons of bashing.
yeah they do wobble alot but its the only bearing carriers my lhs had at the time i needed them so i just went ahead and got those.
Hey brotha. Nice dude. thats great, Here we go. Im gonna be posting some pics soon to to help what Im talkin about but in the mean time. ya the things that make rpm plastic great for some places, is also the thing that makes them not as good for others. Like for your guys, the RPM plastic extra flexs so it doesnt break, which is great for say shock towers, but not so great for other things like carriers, and castor blocks. If you had alum castor blocks, thatd help alot hold the carriers from wobbeling since it goes around. Im snappn some pics right now, and seein about doing a vid real quick in case ya check in soon.
Looks great. I just have two questions. 1. how did you get an orange/yellow body like that? I would really like one. 2. Do you have a list of all the parts you used in the build?
Zane, Thanks man. The body, what I did was I purchased a Stock Clear body from the LHS, and painted it myself. I noticed that the stock graphics had that yellow to red banner thing on a few places, like on the hood, and I picked a color that would kinda match those. Than I just sprayed it with of course a few light coats and bam. Cool because it looks like I did all kinds of crazy graphics work but of course that was because of the inlaid graphics on it. Wanna know whats funny? when I bought the body at the hobby shop, The workers there were kinda like, duh. why would u buy a stock body and not a aftermarket one... They didnt say that to me, but U could see it, and... when I came back in, they were like oh man.. u were the guy that bought the stock body. Like they had even discussed it. lol.. But then they were all trippn out over the vehicle sayn its one of the best lookn stampedes they'd ever seen. I was like thats right foo!! hahaha This is what u need homie, than whatever color u decide just spary underneath of course, few light coats and bam. Itll look like u did shading and all. Especially to those like my GFs friend or my friends who dont know anything about the hobby think I did all that graphics work or whatever.
This is what u need bro.
As for the parts. Ya brotha I have the whole list right there on the front page. I didnt list like all the stock replacements I swapped which would be kind of redundant. Things like skids, drive shafts, etc.. and I didnt list which greases, washers, and the huge list of seperate bags of stainless steel screws i purchased seperatly. But besides those things, its all there on the front page. But one thing, Im willing to share all my parts and what I got " under the hood " the link battery "strut bars" as I call, lol, etc.. As for which color I used.. that one is the one thing I gotta keep to maself
Hey brotha, Okay heres my suggestions. Took me a minute to fiqure the best way to do this to when I was during my build, and I had to play with it for a while but found this way. Okay, so with alignment to work right, the key is to match both sides up together, and getting your links to the exact same width from one anouther, and which lengths. I saw that your links seemed to be alittle off from one anouther, and your mouting points were diff from proline recommended points to start with. Start out with these mouting points. These are the recommended ones except for my shock tower to arm, When i was doing the alignment myself to, I had a harder time when I was not in these mounting points.
Than ya gotta get your links to the T with one anouther. Also, these links have these notches so that you can adjust them and increase, and decease thier length. But you first gotta match the notches all together.
You can do this after you take em off first and match em up like below, but you want all your notches to be facing the left side
All notches on both left and ride side, front and back to to face the left so all links can be adjusted same way
Once those bad boys are matching together. You can adjust them but moving your wrench that they came with up and down. Moving up, increases the size, and moving down decreases the size. So as in the pic you see, the Green arrows indicate increaseing the width in between the rod ends, and red indicates decreasing it.
Before ya put that one, Take of the links, and measure them up, and more important than anything. They have to match left to ride side to the fraction of the MM. I put a piece of tape on my ruler to measure the distance from (mounting point, to mounting point)
Front distance is 80mm with Protrac. This is point to point just like on the pic
Turnbuckles is 107mm with protrac
Rear is 85mm
Once ya got em to the exact sizes, match them up with one anouther exactly so.
Also, I noticed ya had some issue with adusting your rod end and it gets tricky. I found this to be a good way to do so, I used a small wrench that fits in the steel ball end, and used the wrench that comes with the links. Yours is the black one that is in the above pic that came with the link.
After I had those bad boys on. I put them back, and I carefully adjusted them until I found the perfect place. What I did was I found the perfect place for the one side, than I marked it with tape like in this pic.
Than once you got your good starting points, Can make adjustments using the wrenches on the links themselves to find any adjustments from there, Take em off, and match up the right and left side turnbuckles, and camberlinks. But those adjustments there are about dead on to how I have mine to.
Also, Noticed one thing, On your cambers on the front. The steel rod is pushn away from the castor block a bit much. Try switchn it around like in this pic, Or .. you can get a set with those steel balls, Both short and long rod ends for a few bucks. Part number is 5347
Like this one, Check out the balls and how close they are to the castor. you want that so its not pushing against it in any ways you dont wanna and more bending your castor and squeezing on your bearing carriers.
Last edited by AbSoLooT1; 04-10-2011 at 03:20 AM.
I also found that it was important to keep the camber link as close to the shock tower as possible so the camber link is as straight as possible, and not bending incorrect ways. If any bending goes on itll throw off the mm and you gotta fix it, or compensate by adding or subtracting length.
BTW. Your back looks good, except I cant see the point under the rear shock tower. You want that one also to be in the middle like the front one. Just make sure to match those two badboys also perfectly with one side to anouther. Do one side how u see fit, than match the other side to that one. Little Note: This back screw and its orientaion, will have an impact on how much toe-in you have, wether front or back. Kinda crazy observation I found from messing around with it.
In conclusion, Get the links as close to the recommended size. Throw em on, makn sure the notches all face the left, so u can adjust each one with up for increasing length, and down for decreaseing length, than the side you are happy with, tape it up, remove em, and match the other side to the taped side that you found best. Makn sure it all matches up perfectly and taking the time, makes a huge diff on how it drives.
Here is the finished product on the front.
And also, all around and how much toe in, and camber I have on both front and back.
Last edited by AbSoLooT1; 04-10-2011 at 03:35 AM.
alright well i just got done finishing it all and i think it drives alot better although i think my servo is screwed up but that doesn't have much to do with the protrac. I can't thank you enough for helping me i'd be in a big bind if you hadn't helped and thanks for the pictures as well it helped tremendously. The wheels still wobble but i think thats just because they came like that and i do need to get 2 new front hexes other thank that i think its good. Thanks again
Awesome. My pleasure brotha. As u can see it took me a sec for a reason, but thats great to hear. oo.. I got anouther post tonight for your wheel wobble, didnt forget about that one either it probably did come like that like ya said, but it can be fixed. Got some solutions on that one for ya to. Ya its hard to explain without pics. Makes it alot easier to understand. Ima post the wheel wobble one here real shortly. Goal is to get her to spin without a single wobble. Took me some work, but I got both my wheels to spin perfectly stable with tryn different stuff. Also, once ya get the wobble takn care of, it wont effect the handeling anymore and you wil see just how straight it can really be. il have it up asap.
Last edited by AbSoLooT1; 04-10-2011 at 10:43 PM.
ah man thats awesome, take your time
Last edited by flanders125; 04-10-2011 at 11:28 PM.
How to eliminate wheel slop and get your wheel/tires to spin dead straight. Homie flandz: Im kinda typing this one as a thread, lol, and ima post it a bit lata on the main page so forigve me if i write it not so personalized or sound blunt.
Cool , Heres my wheel in action. Its a pic and all, but if there was some wobbel you'd see some tracers of it from going back and forth. Takin the time to put together our stampedes, makes SUCH a huge difference in how it drives. Cant stress that one for sure. This is definatly one important step, and your truck will drive alot better if you take the time to do this action. Our trucks need "play" in some areas, but no where does it need "slop" so here we go.
as you can see, the wheel doesnt have any wobble while it spins, AND most importantly some people tighten it to much, with to many spacers which kills the "slop" but also eliminates freeflow, so the wheel comes to a stop very quickly. Your wheel should spin just like a good skateboard wheel, and should continue to spin for a long long period of time when other wheels would predictablly come to a constant, and steady hault. This is of course because of the bearings at work. First and most important thing, Flanged wheel nutz. If you havent purchased a stampede yet and are checking out the forums for info before you do, but some of these before you walk out of the store with your stampede.
I had my stampede in 94. back then, the front and rear shafts "threads" were shorter, and the front wheel hexs were black and the small width like the ones in the back. It wasn't until I began my build that I learned that this was one of the changes that had happened to the stampedes throughout the years besides the obvious elec/apperance ones. Heres what they used to look like.
okay so whys this important? cuz it also had the same lugnuts on, meaning that they are very outdated and especially with aftermarket wheels the non-flanged lugs just dont seem to have enough "bite" to clamp it to the wheel in a wide enough area to hold it steady as well as the flanged lugs. Cheap fix, the steel ones from RCscrewz are like 10 for 4 or 5 dollars. You can also get red or blue ones aluminum ones of course which are a bit more pricey at 4 for 11 dollars or so, Or i picked up the gold alum ones you see in the picture for 8 for for dollars. The ones that came with were on the truck when it had the mechanical speed control.
Next thing. This is the goal with the front wheels. You want a good strong clamp on the wheels without any restrictions whats-so-ever. Funny thing, when I went to the LHS shop at the beginning of the build, and asked how I can fix this slop, he said this was common with Traxxas Vehicles and are just part of it. I was like.. um no.
Your going to notice if your wheel has slop, by moving it from side to side, it will kind of "click" back and forth from left to right, and you will feel that "slop" again, some things on our trucks need some play, and things like room for heat expansion like our diffs. But I assure you, this is not one of them. You want a wheel tight with the front shafts, without any restrictions of forward movement causing slower speeds and increased electronic temperatures.
First thing is getting your driveshaft to where when you tighten it, you hit this goal. This is like looking at your front shaft according to traxxas manual, and with stock bearing carriers. Its one .05 hex adapters on either side of the bearings than of course pin, than hex. This is correct if you have the stock set-up with stock bearing carriers and such.
This is how my set-up is now, and this is what you will have to fiqure out for yourself. "everything" along this wil make a difference and the slightest change/space will magnify substantially by the time the energy is translated to the outside of the tires. Of course these are the old drive shafts, and plastic hexs that I dont use, but this is again just for example.
I imagine also that alot of people when switching to bearings from bushings, etc.. must forget to re-install for one, or both of thier 5 x.05 washers.
Things you needto take into account that will cause you to find what set-up works for you. In short, how many .05 spacers you need and where. by where I mean on which side of the bearings on the shafts. Inside or out like the stock shaft set-up is as per thier diagram.
Which bearing carreirs you have
Bearings or bushings
What hexs you have (plastic greys, or alum/each brand wil make a diff)
What wheel you have
What lugs you have (should be flanged : )
To give you an example of how the size tolerances translate into so much. . . I know most people dont have extra pins, but I managed to get alot of extra drive pins when i bought a parts lot, and i had "pins" make a difference! of course they are the "exact" same thing, but just the manufacturing tolerances made a huge difference in comparison to what they are, and some pins would cause a fluctuation of 4-5mm in wobble compared to anouther! thats huge if you think of how insicnificant they "should" be in this situation. (manufacturing size difference, not thier existance altogether)
What you will have to do, is play with your set-up and find that spot. Your goal is a good tight wheel but with NO restrictions what-so-ever. Remember, with bearings your wheels should spin like your little brothers skateboard with the nice bearings he got. They should continue to spin like the engergizer bunny of wheels. lol. bad example
Finding that sweet spot is key. Dont neglect, literally "which" .05 spacer you use, or which pin you use. They do make a big old differnce. Pick up some flanged lug nuts, and some .05 mm washers, and some extra pins, and play with your-set up and find that exact set-up that will make your wheel rotate dead straight. Take into account any changes you have, and also what differences you can do. Anouther thing, Going back to how "picky" this is. Your right and left side will "not" be exact. as in it'll be the same in theory, and which type of parts shoudl go where. But one .05 hex may not work as well on anouther side like id did on one side. One pin may not work nearly as well on the left as it did on the right per-say. Spend your time and do this one right, and you will see the HUGE difference, ANY little changes makes after you try one thing, put the wheel on, tighten it, than spin. One you found your sweet spot, move on the other side and go from there.
Last but not least, Your wheel..
If your wheel is way crooked, no matter what you do here will make "no" difference in how much effort you put into eliminating your wobble. If you have stock wheels and tires, and you've never changed them, you are good, and no worries. you can set them to the side. and focus on your driveshaft.
If you have glued your own tires on your wheels it should look like this
So basically, no uneven gaps in between the tires, and the wheels. On this step, if you do have a gap it will make your stuff all kind of wobbely. If your tire is all dirty in there, you wont be able to see accuratly if you have a gap or dont. Mine kind of is in this pic, but you can see that there is no un-evenness when it comes to the gap between the wheel and the tire. You can either leave it if ites of no bother to you, or if its big enough and causing problems, id sugest baking and re-glueing.
One last thing: This is kind of getting into the (four letter word that starts with an A and means rear end) category, but this is how I roll, and most importantly its about precision. lol. how I roll, I just got that. ha.. This is a pic of my rear wheels that didnt go on my truck. Obviously what I did is glued and I cant show, but his is an example of the last step I did. In this pic, the wheels have the mark of whats left over when they join the two pieces into one wheel. I took my time and with a dremel buffing tool, I smoothed off these surfaces. Why, so that there were no size difference anywhere along the tire when I glue down causing unevenness. Even 1mm can make a diff.
The tires have the same sort of thing on the inside, and they look like those make an even bigger differnce. Again, prior to glueing I smoothed out all along the inside of the tire bead, so that everything sits nice and flush, and there were no fluctuations between heights. I dont have a pic of the tires because they are of course glued, but if you find yourself in this point, take the few extra minutes and do so. Also.. Glueing is very important, Make sure not to over apply glue to where its going to gob out the sides, and cause unevenness. WHen I glued my tires, I put a rubber band around the outside of them that didnt apply to much pressure to hold them steady. This made sure they didnt shift, move, flucuate while drying.
Conclusion: What you put into your truck is what you are going to get out of it. And having the chance to wait for the next days parts along the months it took to complete the build, I had time to do things like this as I still worked on my truck 4/5 nights a week. But when I was done with my build, and did my first drive, I surpassed my expecatations and all my hard work paid off. I would not believe how smooth, and straight it was. And this is because I had high expecations. These are our hobbys, and our toys that make our times pass and we get enjoyment out of them. Why not take the time to do something once, and do it "right" so you can scratch it off your mental list, and spend the time when its done, basking in your sense of accomplishemnt and most importantly HAVN FUN!!!!
Last edited by AbSoLooT1; 04-13-2011 at 03:05 AM.
ABS1 is this the Titanium Lunsford Turnbuckles and Hingepin set you would recommend with the Slasher ProTrac kit? I want to make sure i order the right one when i order the ProTrac kit.
Thanks absoloot you definitely have some time invested in that post. Looks like i'll be heading the lhs sometime this week to get the pins and .05 washers to see if i can stop the wobble. I really appreciated it , would you say that the aluminum hexes help with it as well? and did you buy 4 front aluminum ones?
Very nice thread I will do some of this on my truck
If it ain't dirty get it dirty