hey ive got a t maxx 3.3 thats been great for a while but last week i was running it and it stalled out on me. From then on, it would start up and go fine but then cut out as soon as the engine returned to idle. After this it got harder and harder to start it each time. I just tore the whole thing apart and did a full rebuild but i dont think it has made any difference. Anyone know what could be wrong?
sounds like your piston and sleave, as the engine warms the piston and piston sleave will expand causing a loose fit making it harder to start from low compression.
as the engine cools the metal will shrink making a tighter fit, making better compression.
i had this on a 2.5, decided to rebuild even though it was more cost effective to buy a new motor, only rebuilt to see if i could and to see how it all worked.
sold car now and brought a 3.3 much better as you prob know. ebayer is good place to get new piston etc or new engine.
if i had to do it again i would just buy a new engine as by the time you get piston etc, crankshaft etc you may as well spend an extra few quid and get a engine.
hope it helps
do you think i just need a new piston and sleeve? or do i also need a crankshaft and other internals?
I would try retuning it first, (tune at 1/2 tank) sounds like it might be a little lean on the LSN.
Also make sure the carb slide isn't closing all the way at idle.
If it is toast just ERP it, you'll spend almost as much trying to rebuild it as you'll spend on a new mill.
Look out for the tree/crunch!
LiPo? Naw NITRO!!
1 thing i did find out recently, when jumping i would idle high (making it hard to controll in air) when i applied my brakes my truck would cut out. Found out my post which holds the throttle link was over 90deg meaning the servo or spring would not return to idle state. i would pull car in retune idle when sat in front of me, seemed ok. when i would drive and brake it cut out.
i searched on here and got my answer, re adjusted post so under 90deg and problem solved.
my point is 1 problem may sound like another (thats why i said piston and sleave) but other people have another solution. to be honest i would go for wildman4910 first as he has way more experiance than someone like me, there are others out there the same experiance, as you (robbyt1994) troll through these forums you will see names come up loads, these are your men with answers.
as said my experiance on my 2.5 was i would retune and retune, only yo find out as i took more time tinkering it would cool down more, making it easier to start (compression) as i warmed up i would cut out and find it hard to restart.
syptoms of worn piston and sleave are if you can turn your silver wheel on front of engine block (don't know tech name, shows how much i know lol) easily then your piston ... had it, if its stiff/ hard to turn then you prob need to retune as wildman said. if good compression it will feel tight then move easy for approx 1/2 revolution then go stiff again (if really good you may need screw driver to rotate on stiff bits)
i agree with wildman before a rebuild try replacin ur glow plug then retune.. and as for the shrinkage goes nothin shrinks!! when the motor heats up the piston SWELLS.. happens in real cars also happens in these before retunin pull the motor clean it out put a drop or 2 of ur air filter oil on the piston pump a few times to work it in.. after that put ur motor in and retune... none of that brings it back to life dont rebuild just buy a new motor its only a few more dollars but its a guarantee fix!
after the rebuild i still had good compression when the engine was cold so im not to worried about that. The only thing was when i tightened the backplate it got REALLY hard to turn the engine over by hand. Maybe i did something wrong or maybe its ok but i left it a little loose cuz i was afraid it would damage my starter motor. im gonna tighten it up and richen the LSN a little and see what happens. it might just take some fiddling around. im pretty hopeful since theres good compression