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  1. #1
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    Catastrophic Issues... Yes already!!

    Well i knew it was going too happen very soon an i think i am going to have to control myself with the throttle from now on but an awesome speed run turned into a spectacular electronics meltdown.
    This boat is stock except for the the ESC and cooling upgrades.
    Well i think the water cooling worked just fine because the thermal shut-down didn't cut in (or things happened so fast it didn't have time to cut in) but my ESC now looks like this:


    And i believe a lot of spartan owners have been through this sort of mess before. Thankfully it didn't destroy anything else. It melted a bit of the tray but it has not wrecked the structural integrity of it or distorted it or anything. Other than that there is that rotten smell of burnt electronics that will remain with my boat for ever to remind me of the day that a couple of kids had to swim out to get my boat only to yell out that it "Smelled bad and had smoke coming out of it".!!

    Now enough of explaining and telling my story. Too the question:

    What ESC should i go now. I think i want something around the 200amp or bigger. I reckon i will end up destroying a 180amp as well. The Castle Hydra ICE XL 240amp looks like a good option but it is discontinued from what i can see. Looks like the swordfish/Heifi stuff is where i am going to have to go and i wanted a built in BEC because that would be just another thing to waterproof. One i can find is: Swordfish 220amp PRO PLUS 2-6s Data logger.

    What do you people recommend?
    Last edited by danielhawkins; 03-12-2015 at 03:27 AM.
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  2. #2
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    Castle quit making ESC's. I have the stock ESC in mine...have since, I've had my boat. Off Shore Electronics suggests their 180 amp Seaking ESC. You might, want to also look into a Dynamite 120 amp ESC. I have one on my other boat, and I really like it.

  3. #3
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    So does that mean it comes down to how you drive your boat? I don't drive flat out non stop but probably did too many WOT runs. It was on one of these that it died. I don't plan on too much hard driving but i can tend to get carried away.
    Do you reckon the Seaking 180amp will handle a lot more than a RCB 120amp?
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  4. #4
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    As I said above, I don't have a Seaking 180 amp ESC so, I would be doing you wrong to recommend it. I can tell you though, that there are quite a few guys in this forum that have/use it, and swear by it...I can tell you that.

    I do have the original Castle motor and ESC that came with my Spartan, and I have had good luck with it. I also have had, good luck with my Dynamite 120 amp ESC that I use in my other boat. Also, also, I run both my boats at 3/4ths to full throttle when I run, so you should be able to, too. There is a chance that your ESC just happened to be on its' last legs when you bought it. That can happen with used (and, new stuff too for that matter) stuff.

    This is my Castle 80amp ESC/1800kv motor set up with CC Cap Pack and water cooled heat sinks.


    And, this is my Dynamite 120amp ESC/2000kv motor set up with CC Cap pack and a water cooled heat sink.


    Down the road, I wouldn't mind trying a Dynamite 120 amp ESC on my Spartan, but I haven't yet. Also, my Dynamite 2000kv motor wouldn't be a good motor for my Spartan. Most guys in this forum go with Leopard motors, and Offshore Electronics recommends their Leopard 1600kv 4082 motors for our Spartans.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 03-12-2015 at 06:39 PM.

  5. #5
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    Order Placed

    No that is fine. Pretty much just asking but wanting something high but i think the 180amp will be high enough if it is a decent esc.
    So do you run yours on 6S? Thats true you do get the odd dud one and/or it was old. Not sure when the seller put it in. Anyway the below order should get this running decent again.

    From Kintec:

    Octura X442 Balanced and Sharpened Prop
    Blue Bullet nut
    Large Turn Fins
    Adjustable Trim Tabs
    Larger water outlet for one of my outlets
    Some more tubing
    Seaking 180amp esc and its prgramming gear
    Some connectors and Balance plug protectors.

    Along with the 2 x 3S 65c Lipos from SPC my boat should be a machine and hopefully without any electronic issues.
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  6. #6
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    Yep, I'm a 6s-er alright. I run Traxxas 3s 6400mah 25c batteries in mine, and of so far, without any problems.

  7. #7
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    Hahaha. Definitely gets the attraction of the public. Bit off topic but i have just tried out a 3s pack in my bros stampede and i thought it was crazy with 6s in a boat but just 3s on land is insane!! Doing 3/4 throttle (about 70kph) and it will still pop a wheelie.

    Anyhow back to your post:
    That is good to here. Reason i got the new packs was the old ones were 5000mah and 20-30C and so they were on the limit of not being able to deliver the current needed and they puffed heaps.
    I have been reading around a few forums and many people rubbish and trash the spartan and i know it is not the most perfected boat designing but i have a bit of faith in it and i reckon i can get it running pretty good. In a couple of wks time i shall know
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  8. #8
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    I'm sure you can, too. I (little by little) did a lot of little mods to mine. Now, I can use the OEM motor and ESC, and only be 30 degrees above water temperature, if my boat flips...no water or turtle-ing, no grease on the back of my hull after runs, I can monitor all my temps with telemetry, I don't have to worry about my stuffing tubes' nylon liner melting, and so on.

    Anyway, I did a lot of little things to my boat to square it away. But, I must say, working the bugs out of a new RC toy isn't just restricted to a Spartan. Just about every RC goodie I have ever gotten has needed work to get them to the level that I wanted. In my opinion...that's just the way it is.

    P.S. You may want to do this before another one of your ESC's takes a poop. I put heat shields in my boats in the event that I have an ESC (or, motor) blow up on me. I make them out of 20 thou aluminum. I put one underneath the electronics try, one on the flotation foam in front of the boat, and then, I use aluminum speed tape for the underside of my hatch cover.

  9. #9
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    Hey, guess what? Yep, found a couple of pictures showing some of my boats' heat shields for you. If you look at the black shield in front of my motor with the Traxxas logo on it. That's one.



    And, this is the one under my electronic equipment tray.



    Also, when I get a chance (if you want), I'll take a picture of my hatches heat shield. Let me know.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    I'm sure you can, too. I (little by little) did a lot of little mods to mine. Now, I can use the OEM motor and ESC, and only be 30 degrees above water temperature, if my boat flips...no water or turtle-ing, no grease on the back of my hull after runs, I can monitor all my temps with telemetry, I don't have to worry about my stuffing tubes' nylon liner melting, and so on.

    Anyway, I did a lot of little things to my boat to square it away. But, I must say, working the bugs out of a new RC toy isn't just restricted to a Spartan. Just about every RC goodie I have ever gotten has needed work to get them to the level that I wanted. In my opinion...that's just the way it is.

    P.S. You may want to do this before another one of your ESC's takes a poop. I put heat shields in my boats in the event that I have an ESC (or, motor) blow up on me. I make them out of 20 thou aluminum. I put one underneath the electronics try, one on the flotation foam in front of the boat, and then, I use aluminum speed tape for the underside of my hatch cover.
    Yes i did wack a fair bit of stuff in but now it will be just running for testing and getting a good plane and smooth ride then i will start opening it up and possibly upgrading the stuffing tube/flex shaft and doing the mod to stop the grease coming out at the grommet. But that is all to come. Now i am not scared but will keep a close eye on the new esc and make sure temps are good and i will keep my runs to a decent attitude and less WOT runs.

    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    Hey, guess what? Yep, found a couple of pictures showing some of my boats' heat shields for you. If you look at the black shield in front of my motor with the Traxxas logo on it. That's one.



    And, this is the one under my electronic equipment tray.



    Also, when I get a chance (if you want), I'll take a picture of my hatches heat shield. Let me know.
    Are they carbon fibre or aluminium with carbon fibre look? Or something else. Interested in this as i wouldn't really like my boat to have a hole melted through it.
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  11. #11
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    Just to let you know, you don't have to include my pictures in quotes when asking me your questions...I'll know what you're talking about, okay.

    Anyway, my heat shields are (as semi stated above) made out of 20 thou, aircraft grade aluminum, with carbon fiber look applied. I then go around the edges with a black magic marker, and then install them in my boat. To install them in my boat, I tack them in with smidges of clear silicon. I only tack them into my boat with smidges of silicon, in the advent I ever have to remove them.

  12. #12
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    Yeah sorry i actually was going to remove them and forgot.
    Ok, i think i will look into it. thanks for the info
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  13. #13
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    No problem, I was just trying to make things easier for you.

  14. #14
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    Some Upgrades!!

    Last week my package of goodies for the spartan arrived and i fitted out my boat and ran the beast for a few testing and adjustment runs just to get it stable and then unleashed it on the weekend just gone. Thought i would post some pics now that she is going again and also will post a video sometime.

    For the rear i now have all blue anodized aluminium parts; adjustable trim tabs, adjustable turn fins and the 4mm bullet nut. Broke the colour with a nice shiny aluminium Octura x442 prop.




    Prop:


    I also decided to put a grease nipple in the strut hole. Could only get a 6mm x 1mm nipple locally so i used it and drilled out the hole to 4mm and used a 6 x 1 tap to tap a thread into it. I had to cut the bottom off so it didn't protrude into the strut too far and therefore had to remove the spring and ball from it which results in a bit of grease coming back out whilst running the boat but not too much.


    Put some 3mm Kintec cooling tube on and it is a very good tubing, love it. Strong, very flexible and hard to kink. I might upgrade to the 4mm bore tubing but at the moment the 3mm is getting enough water through.


    New 180amp SK ESC. Nice piece of gear. Rugged and tough. Just ground the knobs off on the front side of the tray and chopped 2/3 of the back ones away and it sits nicely into the tray. Holding it down just with double sided tape at the moment which so far seems to be fine. Keeps to a nice even and medium temperature at some good 3/4 throttle runs.
    Internals:



    Along with the new ESC and SPC lipos everything seems electrically sound, finally. Still the faint smell there though to remind me of the day that the kids who got my boat said "It smells real bad and has smoke coming out of it"
    So just need to do some more adjusting and testing to get a good speed/stability balance.
    Other than that it has turned out to be as good as i had expected it to be.
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  15. #15
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    Everything looks really good...you know, for a guy from Warwick, QLD. (lol) Anyway, just a suggestion, but referring to the grease fitting photo, you can bring the angle of your strut down to where the top of your strut is flush with the top of your strut brackets. If you do that, you'll pick up several mph's, and that's really the factory starting point for your strut adjustments. From there, you could probably go down another mm, but give the factory setting a shot first. The factory setting is between 3.5-4mm from the bottom of your boat, and I personally set mine 1.5mm below factory...or, 2.5mm from the bottom of my boat.

  16. #16
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    ...
    Yeah i knew it looked wrong but i left it there anyway. Has been a little hard getting onto plane. Will adjust and see how i go. thanks for tips
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  17. #17
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    Glad to do it. Where did you get your hoses from?

  18. #18
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    The cooling hoses are from Kintec. That is a 3mm bore hose. It worked well so far imo but getting more water flow couldn't hurt too much and i might go to 4mm bore hose but thats if i can get it on the rudder. This hose has a very thick wall, OD is 7mm and ID is 3mm so a 2mm wall. The 3mm one only just fits side by side on the dual ports on the rudder. As you can see in the 6th picture in my post above the 2 hoses a touching. To get them both to feed on all the way i had to put on both at once. But you can still get them on enough if you do them 1 by 1.
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  19. #19
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    I understand that, what ever has the smallest diameter size hole in a water line, determines the water flow. So, if somewhere in our waterlines going from our Spartan rudders to our exit ports is...say like, 2mm...and, everything else is say 4mm; then the 3mm part of the waterline determines our water flow. I only mention this because, our rudder ports can only be so big.

  20. #20
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    Sorry i remember replying with a fair few words to your post a few days ago and just come on here now and realised for some reason it didn't post, so here i go again.

    Yes you have a very good point. In theory that sounds right and it is not wrong but just in reality it sometimes seems to not quite follow that rule. I am a 3rd yr apprentice plumber and from my experience with water and flow/pressure it seems that if you have a short small bore section it does not make much of a noticeable difference. For instance if i have a 100 metre line of 50mm poly and i cut it in the middle and rejoined it with a 32mm fitting, the difference in flow/pressure would hardly be noticeable.

    In that example i mentioned "short". Now that's where the difference comes in with the Spartan. A rough estimation would make me say approx 30-40% of the cooling line from inlet to outlet is of reduced bore i.e through the rudder ports and cooling jackets, plus a reduced bore section is what feeds the cooling line (rudder). I think hoses with a bore of more than 4mm will most likely show no difference in flow. But i maybe wrong and it also could be nothing above 3mm bore. Can't say for sure.

    With that said though, remember those numbers are very rough estimates as i don't know the reduced bore of the cooling jackets and Rudder nor do i know how the waterline is routed inside the 2 water jackets. As i said maybe 3mm is as big as you need and any bigger will not increase anything at all. Maybe its 4mm but i can't be sure and would have to test it.

    But yes you have a point and it is completely correct and it would apply to the spartan more than it would to my example only because approx 30-40% of the cooling in the spartan is reduced bore whereas in my example it was only approx 1% of the line that was reduced.

    Does that make sense
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  21. #21
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    When you do your experiment let me know what happens. I'd be very interested.
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  22. #22
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    Regular guy How did you apply the carbon fibre look on your heat shield?

  23. #23
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    It's a 3ft by 3ft sticker that I got from an auto store. I think it was AutoZone. If not, a store like it. I think it was about 8 bucks for it. In a hobby store they want, like, 20 bucks for an 11 x 8 inch sheet. Anyway, once you get it, then you just stick it on, and trim it with an Exacto knife.
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