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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    Just broke my second stocl axle shaft, anyone running MIP summit axles?

    I have just broken my second axle shaft (actually it was a erevo axle which I used to replace my broken original axle) - twisted like a pretzel. Anyone using MIP Summit axle? I have heard of one person using them with but he stated that they fractured easily. Any more opinions before I drop 48 coins on this?

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  2. #2
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    I am running all MIP axles in my "Super Summit"
    NEVER had a problems so ar, I went thru (4) sets
    of stock axles first though...

    Traxxas T-Maxx ABMOD 33
    Traxxas Dual 700HO Summit

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    Any problems with the sliding arm mechanism? I am worried that without a rubber boot covering the connection that dirt and grit would collect around the slider wearing it down and affecting its movements.
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  4. #4
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    No Problems, unless you add the Kershaw Designs Extension Arm Kit.
    Tried it and had a world of problems, because MIP axles are not long
    enough.
    Traxxas T-Maxx ABMOD 33
    Traxxas Dual 700HO Summit

  5. #5
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    If your slipper is adjusted properly. You shouldn't be able to twist a shaft. The whole point of the slipper is to have a weak link that gives without breaking anything.
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?536733

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    ahh the slipper clutch, I think its concept is lost on slow turning applications. to get the low end - slowly turning ,otor torque i tightened the slipper good. (I guess too good). My axle twisted n snap going extra slow over rocks. I thought the slipper worked mostly for faster episodes.
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  7. #7
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    ive tried mip, my axels bent, and the pins fell out despite being threadlocked, the axles bent cause i was jumping it though, as long as you don't flex those a-arms way too much they will be fine.
    on a side note i doubt these axels are stronger than stock, the cv parts are a very weak spot, and a the slipper needs to be able to give, and like quadiak said even then u can get into situaltions where u can see the tire get completly locked up and u have to pull the truck out
    Last edited by Brasher; 09-04-2010 at 11:06 AM.
    T8 sensored/Xerun-150a/custom chassis/fit body

  8. #8
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    I think you are right about the slipper being more a high speed thing. However you still should keep it adjusted properly even when rock running. From the sounds of what happened to you The slipper probably would not have made a difference. When going slow and tires get locked you have to give up and lift it out or something is going to break. If you put in a stonger shaft something else will break. Its just one of those sticky stiuations.
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?536733

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    1:1's have winches to save the drive train if your stuck your stuck.I twisted a rear driveshaft I guess you can't rock it out if the wheels can't turn
    Mountains cant stop me
    they have tried

  10. #10
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    The slipper does work at low speed,it slips.Stick a hex drive through the shaft that comes out the front of the gearbox(the one with the hole) Hold it,do up the slipper nut until you can JUST move the spur gear with your hand.Mines MMM,and it's trannies coming

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    second thought. does the summit actually need the sliding cvd? I have a few pairs of normal steel revo cvds laying around. I have been comparing them and I have 1 pair thats a wee-bit shorter than the other. I know that the summit's locking diff sticks out on one side (hence the need for different length axles) but the revo 3.3 has been flexing with normal (non-moving) cvds since its inception. Gonna try it. Will report back later if they fit well and can actually still flex without breaking.
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  12. #12
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    Yes, it needs the slider (at least on the short sides, watch how much they telescope in & out when you move the suspension up & down).

    I ran MIPs for a bit on mine. The slider part was about the only part I did NOT have an issue with (though I also did put shrink tubing over it, I'm not convinced it was actually necessary).

    Like others said, the slipper is definitely your friend, however as also said, it won't do much when locked in low gear and you have a tire caught up in the rocks or you're bashing it around with the lockers locked. Both those are no-nos that the breakage from you won't be able to do much about. Best bet for when you're in low/locked is to try to recognize by the sound of the motor and your input to the throttle when the drivetrain is getting bound up, and to just back out of it (or free the car by hand, if needed).

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    yea agreed but the revo 3.3 has the same amount of axle articulation as the summit (SAME suspension ) and they have been running steel CVDs since 2005 (without the sliders). both in the off road truck form and the sway barred racing platinum edition.

    Traxxas came out with the extended rear arms back in 2008 for the Revo 3.3(also included as stock on the summit) to gain the extended wheel base.
    To make up the CVDs fit properly they released a longer steel drive cup as well part # 5333 and the longer version #5333r . My idea is to run the longer drive cups on the left side and the original drive cups (shorter) on the right side (where the diff extrudes the most) . so far the left side seems to be doing ok. the right side will require a shorter cvd arm (darn) - even with the short drive cups the cvd is still too long. Im thinking of looking for a r/c truck with shorter steel cvd (dog bone) that may fit. hpi has plenty
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  14. #14
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    The Revo 3.3 also doesn't have a shortened shaft on one side.

    That shortened shaft causes the axle to swing a little out of phase with the rest of the suspension, which causes more plunging on the shaft's spline.
    You should be able to see what I mean if you put a zip tie (or some other point of reference) on the shaft and then cycle the suspension up and down. The short side shafts have almost " of in/out movement which I think would be enough to allow a dogbone-style end to come out of the cup. Maybe I'm wrong though, as I've never actually tried it. Hopefully Revo steel shafts are stronger than the MIP ones... I was literally able to twist MIPs into candy canes with mine lol.

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    "Hopefully Revo steel shafts are stronger than the MIP ones... I was literally able to twist MIPs into candy canes with mine "

    sfr4x4 - you just broke my heart
    so our only real option are more stock arms??
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  16. #16
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    Of everything I've tried so far, it's been stock shafts I have the lowest failure rate with (about every 10-15 runs a metal end will wear out, causing the crosspin to snap. Rarely do I ever break the plastic parts).
    With MIPs I broke an axle every 3rd run or so. Slipper clutch has always been set the same (just barely tight enough to allow for wheelies)

    Though you can't really see, the shaft that's bent in this pic is actually twisted about 120 along it's entire length.


    What I'd REAALLY like to see someone make are some fat all-metal U-joint shafts modeled after the Revo's shafts. This would greatly reduce the wear and friction issues inherent with the so-called "CVD" shaft (which isn't even a real CV joint anyway).
    Last edited by sfr4x4; 09-08-2010 at 04:43 PM.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4x4

    What I'd REAALLY like to see someone make are some fat all-metal U-joint shafts modeled after the Revo's shafts. This would greatly reduce the wear and friction issues inherent with the so-called "CVD" shaft (which isn't even a real CV joint anyway).

    edit, o i see those u joints are two differnt size shafts, so the revo coupler would work for the smaller one, not sure what to do for the larger side.

    hmn take a stab at making ur own?
    http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...rcmrevocoupler
    not sure how tough these are
    and for the axel you could use this (not sure if hot roll or cold roll is better), grind the end to fit in the coupler
    http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant...98&top_cat=197
    so it still needs to be variable length
    so you need to have it in two pieces and join it in the center.
    find some steel tube mabey drill to the diamater of the axel,
    screw pin fix one end of the tube to the axel,
    the other end screw pin through the coupling and make a slot in the axel for it to slide

    lol it could be done.
    Last edited by Brasher; 09-08-2010 at 06:07 PM.
    T8 sensored/Xerun-150a/custom chassis/fit body

  18. #18
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    Yeah those yokes wouldn't work for the stock stuff w/6mm shafts, they're made for 8mm shafts (and being aluminum, I doubt they'd be stronger than the plastic anyway. These parts need to be hardened steel for sure).

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4x4
    Yeah those yokes wouldn't work for the stock stuff w/6mm shafts, they're made for 8mm shafts (and being aluminum, I doubt they'd be stronger than the plastic anyway. These parts need to be hardened steel for sure).
    The ones I bought from RCM are not aluminum, they are hardened steel.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    mistercrash you grace us with your presence and knowledge. I thought you only haunted the erevo forums. welcome to the summit forums. you have a link to the RCM cvds you have.
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  21. #21
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    SFR are you running stock motors and Nimh?

  22. #22
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    found some u joints that could work they are 35 degree max, which i measured to be about what the suspension needs.
    they are the third ones down. $35 a piece, so not really practical.
    http://www.curtisuniversal.com/joint...gle-bored.html
    might be worth it though if they last a long time, as its $10 a pop to replace our summit cv parts, and then the plastic shafts break at the pins as well.
    Last edited by Brasher; 09-12-2010 at 09:39 PM.
    T8 sensored/Xerun-150a/custom chassis/fit body

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by FASTCAR
    SFR are you running stock motors and Nimh?
    MMM/2200KV brushless, 18/68 gears, switching between 3s or 6s LiPo, depending on conditions and mood for speed.

  24. #24
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    [QUOTE=sfr4x4;4586449]MMM/2200KV brushless, 18/68 gears, switching between 3s or 6s LiPo, depending on conditions and mood for speed.[/QUOTE


    fine for stock? yes

  25. #25
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    Interesting thread. I was looking around for high end parts and eyeing the MIP CVD kit. But hearing that the stock axles holds up better has got me leaning more on stock. Metal gears breaking in the diffs while
    the stock axles are holding strong proves they're pretty tough. I'll definitely be paying more attention to my slipper adjustment.

  26. #26
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    Rememer ERBE guys use Summit shafts over their own if that gives you any hint.
    Everything overpowered...

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4x4 View Post
    Of everything I've tried so far, it's been stock shafts I have the lowest failure rate with (about every 10-15 runs a metal end will wear out, causing the crosspin to snap. Rarely do I ever break the plastic parts).
    With MIPs I broke an axle every 3rd run or so. Slipper clutch has always been set the same (just barely tight enough to allow for wheelies)

    Though you can't really see, the shaft that's bent in this pic is actually twisted about 120 along it's entire length.


    What I'd REAALLY like to see someone make are some fat all-metal U-joint shafts modeled after the Revo's shafts. This would greatly reduce the wear and friction issues inherent with the so-called "CVD" shaft (which isn't even a real CV joint anyway).
    I had exactly the same experience. Mine held up better, but I got what you have there when I started rock crawling. They couldn't handle the torque.
    Brushless Summit!!!!!
    Slash 4x4

  28. #28
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    Two broken MIP CVDs here allready... Has anyone contacted MIP and tried to get some compensation for the broken parts. I mean, i bought these for their durability, but it seems they are not even as strong as the stock axles. I have pictures of my broken MIPs if anyone is interested...

  30. #30
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    Hey Guys, I have MIPs on my ERBE and even on 4s (I use the Slipper) and I don't like them at all. They are doing better than my Steel Traxxas axles did though. But I'm looking for a solution to the axle problem also. Yes I know this is the Summit section. GF is getting one hpefully soon

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  32. #32
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    Hi,

    I maybe found the reason why the MIP axle driveshaft may break. This afternoon I was assembling definitively my MIP 9168 axle driveshafts and before using loctite to lock the screws, I've dowloaded and carefully read the instructions.

    AND guess what, I found 2 good reasons why the stuff may break:
    - we MUST use RED (number 271) loctite to lock the screws, not the blue one and of course certainly not nothing!
    - we MUST check if the drive angle of the axle ends is BELLOW the maximum allowable drive angle.

    Check here:

    http://www.miponline.com/store/media...9168-page1.jpg
    and here
    http://www.miponline.com/store/media...9168-page2.jpg

    I made a video this afternoon about that, I'll upload it on Youtube this week end. But I think that if we do not respect the maximum allowable angle, the result can be like reported on the photography some comments upper. If you try to turn the driveshaft when the end is fully bended (more than the maximum allowable angle), you feel a resistance and the maximum allowable angle keep some clearance between the border of the bone. Then because there is only a few millimeter clearance around each bone, wobbling because of loosened screws could be critical and could lead to a break.

    So my question is: did you use RED loctite to make sure that the screws are firmly tightened and did you check the driving angle before using the MIP driveshafts?

    I thought I may use the Blue Loctite but no I have to use the red one. Video coming soon. Then I'll check the angle with the Long Travel rockers and if I see something bad (more than allowable driving angle), I'll report it and also change the rockers for the 90T progressive 1 or 3 (I don't want to add some limiter spacer into the shocks)

  33. #33
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    the only way to prevent from breaking half shafts is to not run the truck at maximum ride height. if you loosen the slipper clutch to the point that you dont break half shafts then your not going to anywhere.. just lower the ride height so the axles arnt at such an extreme angle.. once you figure out how to tune the suspension, slipper and learn the limits of the summit you will never break another half shaft.
    custom summit crawler parts lol

  34. #34
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    New video about assembly of the MIP axle driveshafts including Loctite products (cleaner, blue 243 and red 271), assembly instructions from MIP and more.



    I also checked the angle and as Summitcrawler said, if you choose the higher ride setup, you reach the maximum allowable angle of the CVD9168 kit (see assembly instructions) if using in combination with the 120LT rockers. So.... it's a good idea to stick with stock Summit ride height (middle hole for mounting the push rods) and also to make sure that the steering blocks are properly assembled (pivot balls into the a-arms, pivot ball caps well tightened not too much not too loose, wheel hex hub well attached).

    Something IMPORTANT: DO NOT use the screws delivered with the MIP CVD kit to assemble it on the differential output shafts. The screws do not fit into the holes on the output shafts of the diffs, it's just 1mm inside then it's not possible to screw it more... So I removed the screws from the stock axle driveshafts, use the Loctite cleaner an then re-applied some additional blue Loctite 243 to lock the screw.

    My 2 cents.
    Last edited by Scaniris; 01-17-2012 at 12:57 PM.

  35. #35
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    so what was your result scaniris, did they ever break?

  36. #36
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    I broke my set also. Went back to stock shafts as the parts are cheaper. Just the pins, that I lost one of, are 10.00 and cheapest shipping I could find was 8.00. On fleabay I can find a whole set of summit axles for a good price and just keep rebuilding them as needed now
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