I understand the reason for not using Lipos from a no name foreign company with no support but has anyone used or currently using the Turnigey 2 or 3s lipos??? I see adds in car and driver for Turnigey 2s 5000ma 25c for 19.99....thats a third the price of my hyperions.....I know they make crap aluminum parts supposedly but am curious how their batteries are.
I have the brushless revo btw
Last edited by Shane Hoffman; 06-21-2010 at 11:31 PM.
Check the spelling of the packs again.
i have 4 of the ******* 5000mah 40c batteries. One has issues (one cell seems "weak") and the other 3 are strong robust batteries IMO. The give great runtime in my e-revo.
Being that they are considered to be less strict with their battery testing than say, hyperion, i'd go for a minimum of 30c for a 5000mah 3s battery. The rule of thumb is you can't over power a an esc and motor with too many amps but you can underpower it by not supply what the motor is trying to pull.
I was geared high and bashing in a parking lot running a 4000mah 20c ***** battery on a castle sidewinder. I think the battery was to blame since it puffed at the end of the run. The motor got super hot and seized up. The esc was non responsive as well as the receiver. I had a fan on my esc and on my motor. My point is that i over powered the battery IMO. Do youself a favor and get a battery that supplies enough amps.
Originally Posted by slowenuff
Not sure how that helps....the fact that you know I spelled the name of the company wrong tells me you know who what I am talking about.......
Awesome...thanks for the input. Real life experience is the exact thing I am looking for.
Per my other thread.... I don't actually have a revo yet, but its been ordered.
I do however have a couple 5ah 20C ******* packs. Well I killed one the other night, not rc related.
Anyway they've worked fantastic for me, and for the price... well its a heck of a deal.
FWIW, I built a test rig out of eight 20A diesel glow plugs and a datalogger. Tested *******'s 2S 5000Mah/20C and FlightPower's similar 2S pack. The results were identical. I've also tested other batteries and have seen no significant difference between the performance of *****s, *******s or "names".
In my opinion most "name" battery manufacturers buy in cells or pre-built batteries from China, wrap them in a pretty cover and sell them for considerably more. They do plough-back some of the difference - Mainly in the form of sponsorship and advertising but, unless you really value the bragging rights there's precious little point in spending the added cost.
Some people spend the extra money and try to justify it in their heads by criticising the lower cost batteries. Well, nobody likes to think they've paid 3 times more than they needed to.
I can't say anything negative about *******, ***** ********* or Rhino lipos other than the way the wires come out of the pack. You have to trim a small section of your battery compartment doors off but other than that they perform really well.
I read on here a lot of "Oh these packs will give you 2mph more" or "These have more punch". Well my ***** ********* packs give me standing backflips on 4S, have tons of punch, never get even warm, take full advertised charge and to be honest I couldn't care less about 2mph on top. (if it's even there) Also I don't have to take out a second mortgage for few batteries.
The more I read on these "High End" (incredibly overpriced) batteries the less likely I am to buy any. What they promise is pretty much what my ***** packs already give me but at three times the price (sometimes more). If any of my ***** packs were to die on me right now I wouldn't hesitate on getting a new set right away. IMO they have already payed them selves off. Some of them have close to 150 charge cycles with no signs of deterioration. Best money I spent on RC. (well maybe it was my Revos actually)
BASH. BREAK. FIX. REPEAT. ALWAYS REPEAT.
Welcome Shane. If you use the "Search this forum" button and put in ******* lipo you will find hundreds of posts.
*****, Rhino, *********, *******, Blue Lipos (hobbypartz.com) are all inexpensive packs that for the most part will work fine as long as you choose a proper C rating for your pack.
MY OPINION is 5000 mAhs and 30C as a minimum providing 150 amps per pack. Higher than 30C is even better.
Lower than 30C and you are "possibly" introducing more ripple effect to the system which is a known major factor in MMM ESC failures.
I make tap adapters and power harnesses.
I did a similar test on tools and oils. I went down to our local Wal-art and bought a few $10 socket/ratchet sets and began testing failure torques of the ratchets and the sockets and duty cycle testing. I found no difference between the $10 bargain tools and the big name tools like Snap- and Pr-to and Se-rs. So the conclusion, all tools come from the same place, which are then purchased by other companies to place their name on and jack the prices sky high just to rip us off.Originally Posted by RootzMan
Next was oil, many oils. I compared bargain brand Wal-art 10w-30 to big name (advertized on TV) 5W-30, to sewing machine oil to gear lube to RC shock fluid (5wt to 80wt) to RC diff lube (3k to 100k) to full size motorcycle suspension oils (5wt to 30wt) and other than colors, I could find no difference among all of them. All the oils were exactly the same and it did not matter at all if I ran BelRay suspension oil in the transmission of my full size truck or put Wal-art 5W-30 in the shocks of my RC vehicle, it was all the same, I could not see or tell any difference at all. Therefore all oils are the same except for colors and it would then follow that all oils must come from the same place; which is then purchased by different companies to place their label on and charge us gross margins for a "special" product. We now know the truth.
I am next going to test cars, trains and planes and I'll bet they are all the same too. I'll wager a 747 is nothing more than a To-ota in disguise. We could really be one to something here, REAL consumer testing and reporting. And to think it all started with RC batteries.
OK, just joking to make a point.
Well, people are always going to stick by their opinions, but my 1¼ year old ********* packs are still going strong after probably 150 cycles now. I will say they are not quite as punchy as my newer *******s though (which probably have about 30 cycles on them now).
I've also seen reports in the past of IR testing showing virtually identical readings on ******* LiPos vs. Hyperion LiPos, so I don't see RootzMan's comments about cell performance being completely out of line. The ***** ********* did have higher (worse) readings though.
Someday I'd like to try a set of the Hyperions, just to see what if anything all the hub-bub is about. Though having been rather satisfied with the performance of the batteries I have already, I haven't been able to bring myself to plunk the $$$ down on them yet.
He probably thought you may have been entering it into the Search box that way, which wouldn't yield much in the way of results.Originally Posted by Shane Hoffman
******* 40c 5000mAh are what I use in a couple of vehicles. I had one bad cell out of 12 total cells. They have great punch and I'll buy more if I need them.
has anyone used *******'s/zippies and then used hyperions?
I'd like to know if they "felt" significant differences. Obviously they'd have to be similar c rating and mah rating (ie. ******* 30c 5000mah vs hyperion 35c 5000mah)
I also run these and have had no bad cells. Here is what I know, I have used a few batteries including SMC 28c 5500 mah and if there was a difference I can't tell. Another thing is these batteries are fast enough that IF the don't have as much punch as Hyperion it won't matter because it's already too insane for bashing.Originally Posted by brian015
ERBE Tekin 6s
ERBE MMM 4/6s
I was surprised at the idea that a national magazine had adverts featurinmg "blue lipos". Thats why I wanted a spell check.
Ironically, this post could have used a spell check....Originally Posted by slowenuff
(√) Zer0 tall-er-ance 4 stu-pid-it-deeeeee.
I have 4 packs and also 4 from *****. They have all done ok for me. I also have 8 ACE 2s 20c 1800 that have had issues with the wrapping getting loose but the packs themselves have not bulged.
I have yet to try any high dollar packs but I here a lot of good things about the "Boost" line of cells along with SPC. As stated earlier I would buy the more powerful cells you can fit into your truck. They will last longer and your truck will not have the risk of damage from low power delivery from the cells.
Welcome to the Revo Club. This forum is great just to read of threads to learn about your new toy
BL Revo, eRevo, MERV x 3 and still counting.
Thread cleaned up! If users don't like what they are seeing then please don't post in a non-constructive way. Thanks.
I guess you can't say anything negative about SPC lipos because your posts will get deleted but it's fine for one for one of their guys to dump on ***** batteries. I wonder how much they are paying Traxxas for that privilege?
BASH. BREAK. FIX. REPEAT. ALWAYS REPEAT.
Predictably you come back with a reply as an example of what I'm saying not to do.Originally Posted by BIG-block
There is definitely no favoritism on my part. If I see support threads or bashing threads of SPC, they will be gone and the same will happen for non-SPC support/bashing. If you see threads as just described, there's a report post feature. Use it please.
I like SMC quite a bit.. Ive got a couple of 2 and 3s hardcase packs from them. I used to like *****s too until I lost my RX8 and a *****
I have used dead cheap HK LIPO's in my ERBE - WinForce 11,1 5000 mah...
They have been "trashed" in one test I have read but have worked really great for me so far... I'm no "peak power chaser" though and haven't got the longest RC track record but work they do...