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  1. #1
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    Stripped Hex Screw

    How do I remove one that I cannot get a straight line too and that the head is spun round instead of hex? not the screw threads.
    minitrux.net 4x4VXL Slash Rustler & VCreeper

  2. #2
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    Pull it apart enough to be able to get at it straight and use a screw extractor for broken bolts.
    Turbo in the front, groceries in the back.

  3. #3
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    I am upset with the quality of these screws, I've had this problem multiple times. Sometimes it works just to pound the allen key in with a hammer and unscrewing it...
    PLEASE do not PM me and immediately go offline :p

  4. #4
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    It baffles me the things some people find to complain about on this truck. The screws? I don't think there is a type of screw this small that I haven't stripped at one time or another. It happens, replace it and move on.
    Turbo in the front, groceries in the back.

  5. #5
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    Use a high quality allen tool to remove the screws with. The included allen keys that come with the truck are not very strong and tends to strip the screw heads out. Also you could upgrade to stainless fasteners.

  6. #6
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    turbowop, are you detirmined to make fun of everything I say? It was already old the first time. You don't have to agree with me, just please get off my case.
    Perhaps I was wrong, maybe it's not the quality of the screws, maybe it's my tool set. I was just saying that I have had this problem before.
    PLEASE do not PM me and immediately go offline :p

  7. #7
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    make sure the head it clear, the only time i have had any problems is on the lower rear shock when i was too impatient to clean out the dirt.

    and yes, the stock tools are ok but after the first week they were replaced with eds drivers.
    slash 4x4

  8. #8
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    I had one of the motor screws strip out on me to the point where it wasnt coming out the conventional way. I took my dremel and sliced a vertical line through the head and unscrewed it with a flat screwdriver.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by SirSlash4x4
    turbowop, are you detirmined to make fun of everything I say? It was already old the first time. You don't have to agree with me, just please get off my case.
    Perhaps I was wrong, maybe it's not the quality of the screws, maybe it's my tool set. I was just saying that I have had this problem before.
    I'm not trying to pick on you. I just call it how I see it. If it happens to be you posting multiple threads like this, I'm going to respond to them. Nothing against you.
    Turbo in the front, groceries in the back.

  10. #10
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    I use a seal pick to clean out the heads before I even attempt to remove a screw.
    Like this set:
    http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...?keyword=picks

  11. #11
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    I've found the standard screws or tools Have stripped a few times...I bought some integy drivers that were about 10 bucks each. They grip a lot better - I also bought a cheap slash screw kit off eBay and if a screw is even a little rounded I throw it out. The first time this happened i had to replace the chassis due to a severely rounded head, after that I learnt my lesson.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffmfly1
    I had one of the motor screws strip out on me to the point where it wasnt coming out the conventional way. I took my dremel and sliced a vertical line through the head and unscrewed it with a flat screwdriver.
    +1 on this. I have done the exact same thing on a couple occasions and it works like a charm. It's not always convenient, though.
    ◄▲▼► SUMMIT ●○●○● 2 RUSTLER VXL's ●○●○● MERV ◄▲▼►

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by crucify
    I use a seal pick to clean out the heads before I even attempt to remove a screw.
    Like this set:
    http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...?keyword=picks

    it also helps to get the dirt that is jammed in the crew head wet first. The dirt dislodges easily that way

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by crucify
    I use a seal pick to clean out the heads before I even attempt to remove a screw.
    Like this set:
    http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...?keyword=picks
    Between those and a good Dremel, you've got an excellent "At Home Dentistry" Kit

    Yeah the stock tools aren't very good and it pays to have a good tool set. The problem with the stock ones are they are soft, so the hex's slowly start to strip and round, but as they do this, with a little slippage, it rounds out the screw heads. I actually just ordered a stainless steel screw kit from RCScrewz
    Slash 4x4 PE - MMM 2650, Losi 8ight 2.0 Shocks

  15. #15
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    I take a dremel to bad screws and make a slot that I can pry out with a flathead screwdriver.
    Cars can fly too!

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4tec-Rally
    I take a dremel to bad screws and make a slot that I can pry out with a flathead screwdriver.
    Yes this works fine for screw heads above the surface, but if you have a countersunk head or one in a difficult location you don't have much options..!

    I used screw extractors, heat, a hammer to break the bond, dremel & anything else you can think of with no luck ( screw in back of chassis going down into diff case)

    Always throw a screw out if it starts to round - it's not worth the hassle of spending half hour trying to remove it!!
    Last edited by bcr07; 06-01-2010 at 12:26 AM.

  17. #17
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    get good hex drivers & don't be putting much torque into "ball-ended" hexes

  18. #18
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    If you need to remove the lower shock mount screw and you don't have a dremel you could use a pair of vise grips to break it loose. Just plan on getting some hollow balls for the rod ends. #5525

  19. #19
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    Take a Torx Bit that barley fits in the stripped out head. Jam it in there, pushing down hard turn the bit counter clockwise (righty tighty / lefty loosey). Good luck!

  20. #20
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    Still having major problems, now one on the motor is stuck, this is the first time I have tried to remove it Any more suggestions?
    PLEASE do not PM me and immediately go offline :p

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by SirSlash4x4
    Still having major problems, now one on the motor is stuck, this is the first time I have tried to remove it Any more suggestions?
    i had this happen to one on the side of the motor at the end (there are 4) and the dremel worked to create a flathead slot so i could get it out.
    slash 4x4

  22. #22
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    Don't have a dremel.
    I filled it with gorilla glue and put the key in, will let it dry overnight and post results.
    PLEASE do not PM me and immediately go offline :p

  23. #23
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    First use an xacto knife to get out the dirt next use torx bit with the appropriate size head to slowly screw it out.learnt my lesson too, O don't overtighten anything or keep bad screws.works for me.....

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowninja
    i had this happen to one on the side of the motor at the end (there are 4) and the dremel worked to create a flathead slot so i could get it out.
    +1. It's pretty easy to do on the button-head screws. Just be careful with the metal shavings - you don't want any getting on the rotor magnet.

    I think it's absolutely ridiculous that they put Loc-Tite on the motor screws. Covered by the end cap, it's impossible for them to back out, making it complete overkill. The Velineon rebuild kit comes with the 4 motor screws, and guess what? The thread lock is already on the screws. Whenever the time comes that I need the kit, the first thing I'm going to do is torch that junk off the screws - just like I do for any other screws that don't need it.
    ◄▲▼► SUMMIT ●○●○● 2 RUSTLER VXL's ●○●○● MERV ◄▲▼►

  25. #25
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    I don't think any of my extra screws will fit in the motor slots...
    PLEASE do not PM me and immediately go offline :p

  26. #26
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    The screws seem to be terrible. I stripped all of the lower shock screws, also 2 of the screws on the back of the motor. The screws rust as soon as they get wet, I have to oil most of them each time I clean it. And yes I do own quality hex drivers. My next investment will be a stainless screw set.

  27. #27
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    hopefully the glue works for you sirslash and yes those motor screws are very small and seem softer then the rest.

    a $6 bag of ebay revo screws was a good investment as i have swapped out more lower shock screws then anything else, if i ever need to remove them for any reason i just toss them out and get a fresh one. anything that's forward facing and close to the ground is going to get shredded from the rocks and gravel.
    slash 4x4

  28. #28
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    Next time you have a screw with locktite on it and it feels like its beginning to strip you could also use a soldering iron on the tip of the screw to heat it causing the locktite to melt. That will help loosen it up..

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by phil1234
    The screws seem to be terrible. I stripped all of the lower shock screws, also 2 of the screws on the back of the motor. The screws rust as soon as they get wet, I have to oil most of them each time I clean it. And yes I do own quality hex drivers. My next investment will be a stainless screw set.
    Same here.

    The glue did not work, dried too soft. I may have access to a dremmel this afternoon or Friday...
    PLEASE do not PM me and immediately go offline :p

  30. #30
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    Saw this in rc driver or rc car action.Wrap alum foil around your hex key to make it a little bit bigger.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshVXL
    Next time you have a screw with locktite on it and it feels like its beginning to strip you could also use a soldering iron on the tip of the screw to heat it causing the locktite to melt. That will help loosen it up..

    Soldering iron is a great idea !

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by phil1234
    My next investment will be a stainless screw set.
    Stainless steel screws are softer than black oxide coated screws, so they'll strip easily as well. Do yourself a favor and get screws from Tony's Screws or get them in bulk from McMaster. The class 10.9 (McMaster) or class 12.9 (Tony's Screws) black oxide socket head cap screws are the ones to get.

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