I have a tight/rough spot in the mesh between the front ring and pinion gear. Through about 85% of the rotation it's very smooth, but then when it hits that it's gets very tight and sounds terrible. Should I shim the diff away from the pinion or towards it? Or is something just amiss and needs further attention?
I doubt shimming is the answer if it is only one spot in the rotation that is causing the issue. Sounds like the ring and pinion need replaced or maybe a good cleaning to get some debris out of that spot. Another possibility is one of the three screws that holds the diff together is losse.
Rusty - MERV - Pede 4x4-Alias
SPC Lipo Power
Thanks. Yeah, I would think something is out of true, but I wasn't sure if they were all like that and shimming would just reduce the binding when it gets too that point (without making the rest of the mesh too loose...).
I rebuilt once a while ago, after a single run in the snow, but I'll double-check the screws and everything, make sure it's all spinning true. I THINK it did this before I even ran it, I don't remember. The rear seems to be OK. I've got a set of universals on order so I'll have to rebuild the diffs anyway.
mine had this and i couldent do anythng about it so i just got a new diff and that solved my problem and one time my diff like wasnt machined rite and had plastic that was their and wasnt shaved i guess like its suppose too
Same problem, this was AFTER replacing the diff housing and pinion, just gonna run it til it falls apart
WARNING LEVEL: 60% and rising!
It's looking like the diff is just bad, I can't get it to stop doing it. Any luck getting Traxxas to replace it? It was like this before I ran the truck, and I ran it hoping it would just wear itself in a bit, but no such luck.
I took out the big o-ring on the gear side of the diff (it leaks anyway just sitting there...) and bolted it back up, that helped a lot. It still gets tight in the same spot, but it doesn't actually get stuck enough to activate the diff. I have to rebuild them when the universals come next week anyway, so I'll try a rebuild kit and see what it does. It is more than like the plastic parts than the machined metal parts causing the problem.
Worst-case I'll just use regular grease, and build like this, run it until it wears out, then send it to Traxxas so they can see the result of shoddy manufacturing.
They seem to have missed the point of a gear differential; low maintenance and high durability.