Im thinking about buying a set of rear cvd's because i run 3s and im sick of my draiveshafts braking. what i am wondering though, is do they restrict shock travel?
these are the ones im looking to get
would they affect how the shocks travel at all? because i know the driveshafts right not slide.
Currently Looking at the same thing. Hope to get some feedback soon.
Hi Paul,Originally Posted by SeattleSlasher
There is no binding or shock limiting for the stock shocks in the stock/recommended holes. You have full compression and full droop. That means position 2 in the front and position 3, 4, and 5 in the rear. Hope this helps.
Tekno RC / Impakt RC
theres no reason at all why they shouldnt work.i have the flm that dont work.but i will say this.i took the flm cvd to work and trimmed a bit here and there and im getting full travel with all shock locations,but the strenght is gone becouse of the modifiying,and i had to dremmel my new rpm arms(ouch).so if i can do it why the heck cldnt flm????anyway enough @ flm.i will be trying the tekno also.Originally Posted by SeattleSlasher
thanks guys! especially tekno
never believe a vendor about there own product or a competors. If you want cvd now get MIP traxxas recomends those as the make dues till they get there cvd's finished in the next month or so.
Revo 3.3, Slash 4x4, Savage X it really does suck.
I wouldn't go that far, there aren't any vendors here bagging other vendors products. Consider the company in question, their history, and their current clients before you draw judgment.
The fact that one company is so bold to be publicly seen and discussing testing says a lot about their character. Rushing to production to put something out before another company just to sit back with their hand out is not a way to run a business.
The fact is, no solution out today is worth buying.
4x4 PE & Beyond...
how do you know hes a vendor? sounds like your playing favorites more than him. all i asked is if they affect the shock travel. thats not an opinion question.
where is a link for MIP slash 4x4 CVDS?
I was replying to bubbles.
4x4 PE & Beyond...
I wish I could test the new tekno cvd's or someone here that bet the snot out of there truck.
My rear wheels are wobbling so bad my truck is falling apart.
I may go with MIP!
I got skills!
same with me. hahaOriginally Posted by Substance
My apologies then, I immediately get defensive. HAHA Thanks for clearing that up.
4x4 PE & Beyond...
see but that setup doesnt look near as good as the tekno one!
but if people say they work well, then they work well! lol
Originally Posted by Substance
I had one axle break right after I installed them and MIP sent a replacement asap (they told me they would replace anything that broke for free) and they have been working great for now, I will see what Traxxas comes out with, I like Tekno products, but I am not about to take off my Traxxas Blue Aluminum axle blocks just to install Tekno's dogbone cvd's because they changed the size of a bearing. They changed the bearing so you can't just buy there cvd's and install them in your truck, they want you to buy there axle blocks also to hold the larger bearing. I really don't see that bearing difference being a big upgrade, they should have just made them to fit the stock Traxxas Blue Aluminum axle blocks.
i agree with BBBB. as much as i like tekno products, this was one of the reasons i picked up the MIPs rather than waited for the teknos. from what i've seen tekno does a VERY thorough job in their product r&d so i'm sure they have a very valid reason for doing it, but it just doesn't suit what i want.
That's quite the theory. Do you wear a tinfoil hat as well?Originally Posted by BBBB
Turbo in the front, groceries in the back.
had them, lasted 1 week, and they bind when the suspension compressedOriginally Posted by fatherbubble
the Tekno cvd's come with the axle block's and extra set for different toe-in on the rear, they have a life time warranty so if they ever break you send them back and get another set, the reason for the bigger bearing is so they could use 6mm shafts instead of 5mm, I'm not a Tekno rep. but they look great to me, and with the issues with MIP I have had, I will not go back to themOriginally Posted by BBBB
Last edited by SirJaymz; 05-05-2010 at 10:41 AM.
I just bought the mip cvd's for my 4x4. How are you getting them to bind when they are telescoping like the stock ones.
Curious how they bind given their telescoping shaft design. Would you share more detail?Originally Posted by SirJaymz
I approve of this message
I got skills!
apparently I did not get the new one's...... you say there telescoping like the stock?? Hmmmm I might try them out if I don't Like the Tekno ones
well i been using the new mip cvds there great well the rear ones the fronts i heard there are alot of problem from cracking to braking completly off but so far the rear ones get the job done i would recomend these ....
Originally Posted by DABIGSCALEKILLA
What kind of power are you giving them?what type of surface?
I got skills!
I will post a quick defense of FLM. Set up within the travel limitations, these CVDs appear to be bullit proof. I run a Mamaba Monster Max 2650 with Thunder Power 50c 4S bashing, including on the beach with paddles, and have had zero problems front or rear. With shock covers on I can't see and don't notice the change in shock travel. And their customer service is excellent. They are not perfect, but they should not be written off as a viable option.
Same here. Running the MIP's with MMM/2650 geared at 18/50 on 3s. No problems at all so far.
I had a set of FLM's but can't comment on performance because I sent them back before I ever used them. There was a bit of a mixup and they sent me the axle stubs instead of the CVD kits. By the time it was all straightened out and I had the correct parts in hand it had been a month. I figured the lifetime warranty wasn't worth a whole lot if getting the parts took that long. I'm not bashing them, in fact, their customer service was great other than the delay. They were always very quick to respond to emails.
How are you doing this? i broke mine super fast. have 2650 mmm with 17/54 and can snap them on command. i am currently working with mip on replacments. have broke both front and both rears with 1 charge of a 3 cell pack.Originally Posted by LD50
How are the stock ones breaking? I noticed mine are starting to wear at the u joint holes and are getting sloppy. Is that the spot?
That's the exact spot. Mine twist within 1 battery of replacingOriginally Posted by snowninja
Drive it like you stole it or leave it shelved
A QUICK ONE FOR ME ALSO......... I HAVE FLM UP FRONT AND REAR. I AM USING THE SLAYDEN SET UP WITH NO TRAVEL,SAG OR POWER ISSUES. (RUNNING BOX STOCK EXCEPT FOR THAT. HAS A SLASH 2 X 2 LAST YEAR... AND YES YOU GET WEAR AT THE U-JOINTS, JUST LIKE A REAL TRUCK. PLASTIC IS PLASTIC
i've been running mine for a couple months now but since getting the 3s lipo notice all sorts of looseness. what kind of battery are you running to twist these in one pack?Originally Posted by pedecrawler
i was thinking of swapping the fronts with the rears to get a bit more life out of them since the fronts look pretty good still..
guys today i put the new mip cvds to the test and they survived but i was sad to say that the drive hub the holds the small silver pin broke but the axle survived and the telescoping shaft did too.... but now there might be a torque problem for the drive hub to the female spline bone.....these were tested with the stock motor and a ******* 5000 mah 20-30 batt
I'm twisting output yokes and Half shaft ends off like they are make of Kraft cheese slices. Its a Joke.. Running stock VXL and Stock tires with 2S lipos.. I have my slipper set loose as well.. I need Steel output yokes.. Might try the ones for the Rustler. Anyone have any other solutions ?
I have FLM Stub axles and they are Rock solid so I really don't want to shelf those and buy a complete new set of CVD's
Always in Trouble for trying to help out.
I'm not sure what the secret is, but I'm not having any problems. I'm not babying it either. Running down the street if I punch it, it stands up on the back bumper. I am running very thick diff. oil all around (60K front, 50K rear, 500K center) to keep it from unloading so much energy when a tire starts to spin. If anything I would think that would put even more strain on the CVD's.Originally Posted by Remy5405
I found some Jaco 2.8 wheels with foam tires at my LHS today that I picked up for bashing out in the street. I ran it geared 22/50 and made some runs with no problems. Ran it yesterday with the stock wheels/tires geared 16/50 and was jumping it off a ramp in the backyard. I was staying in the throttle pretty hard so the wheels were spinning fast when I hit the ground. Nothing broke then either.
sorry but im calling b.s on that.flm even tells you u cant get full up and down travel in the rear.except for luckybo.u must of got the lucky set. i heavily modifyed mine and still barely gets full up and down.and the front keeps popping out of cup at full down,unless i run 4 degrees neg camber or more.4 minumum.they are tough as any other,but what does it matter if they dont work properly.Originally Posted by LUCKYB0
so aftermarket options are:
* FLM - work with existing aluminum hubs
* MIP - work with existing aluminum hubs
* TEKNO - need tekno hubs (not yet released)
* TRAXXAS venturing these will work with traxxas hubs (not yet released)
any others i am missing??
BC SLASHER you can get full travel with the flm parts if you are using their stub axles only.
No way to get full travel with FLM when settin it up using Slaydens setup sheet or any other setup for that matter. Shafts will either pop out or shaft will bottom out. Just a fact.
When using the flm stub axles you are still using the plastic telescoping drive shafts the only part that you change is the stub axle. To me the only reason to change any way is to stop bending stub axles. I have tried the proline but keep breaking the female shafts in the front. Going back to stock up front.
Last edited by slash_48; 05-14-2010 at 07:37 PM.
WELL I'M CONFUSED..... MAYBE I GOT THE PERFECT SET....... MY REAR SHOCKS WILL BOTTOM OUT FIRST AND I CAN'T PULL THEM APART PULLING DOWN. CENTER HOLE ON TOP AND I DID MOVE TO THE #2 HOLE AT HE BOTTOM (WHICH WAS ONLY BECAUSE I STRIPPED OUT BOTH #3 HOLE ON THE REAR A-ARMS. I DON'T REMEMBER HAVING A ISSUE IN THE # 3 HOLE WHEN I WAS RACING THIS FIRST 2 WEEKS (100 LAPS.. LOW GUESS)