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  1. #1
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    Rustler XL-5 Break-in?

    How do you break-in a electric Rustler XL-5?

  2. #2
    RC Champion
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    Read the outline in the owners manual. Running in training mode for a pack works. clean it afterwords with motor spray.

  3. #3
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    where do i get electric motor spray?

  4. #4
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    My LHS breaks my motors in Windex for 5min...
    My WIFE drives her slash like she stole it...

  5. #5
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    I use THIS.
    ◄▲▼► SUMMIT ●○●○● 2 RUSTLER VXL's ●○●○● MERV ◄▲▼►

  6. #6
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    plug in battery
    prop up back wheels SECURELY
    engage throttle 80-90% for entire battery. 6-7 cell batt
    break in complete
    is there an 'AA' for RC addicts?

  7. #7
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    I use PURE Performance Electric Motor Cleaner by T.A. Emerald, and have for years.
    They have 2 types
    - PERF 2000 - (Black can, blue letters) : designed for hi-rev (18k-50K rpm) slot car motors
    - PERF 4000 - (Yellow can, black letters) : electric contact cleaner

    Personally I stick with the PERF 2000. Works like a dream and MOST IMPORTANTLY its designed for hi-speed, small electric motors like our motors AND its safe for plastic!


    The last part often gets overlooked. Yes you can buy electric motor cleaner at the local auto parts shop, but most often, its not safe for plastic.

    The absolute most important part that you cannot forget... once you clean your motor with motor cleaner, you need to place a small drop or 2 of bearing oil on both ends of the motor where the bearings are (where the shaft comes out of the can). Spin slowly by hand and work it in.

    For the bearing oil, once again, I use my bearing oil for high speed motor bearings. I use a Pin Point oiler filled with Mura Red.

    I do know some guys that get the pin point oiler bottles and put of all things.... Royal Purple in it (yeah the motor oil).
    Dont know about anyone else here, but I do not recommend using Marvel, 3-in-1 or Glidex on motor or wheel bearings.

    Glidex for example is wicked, but is forumalted for either brass or non-plastic based oilite bushings, and is not designed for use on ball bearing bushings.

    If your LHS doesnt stock some of these, then look around, you can find them.
    I also have a heavy background in 1/32 and 1/24 scale electric slot cars, so a lot of the lube and cleaning process from that hobby carries over very easily. I know my local slot car shop gets their motor cleaning products from Eagle Dist. (who unfortunately only uses reseller shops like your LHS, and they do not sell direct to end users)

    Good luck.
    2x Rustlers and LOTS of Slot Cars

  8. #8
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    Thanks for all the help everyone.

    When cleaning the motor, can that be done with the motor still on the truck or does it need removed to be properly cleaned.

    I will be checking my hobby shop this weekend for a 18 tooth pinion gear, motor cleaner and motor oil since I didn't order that stuff with my truck. hopefully one of my shops have the stuff. One is a small shop that is a Traxxas full line full service dealer and the other is a Hobbytown usa.
    Other wise I will just have to deal with the 23 tooth for a little while till I pace another order because to order that stuff from tower i will pay more for shipping than the parts total.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    I use 3 in 1... its worked excellent. If you run too high a pinion even a few times on your titan you WILL hurt it. 18 is still too big IMO. a 16 or 17 is ideal. You need to remove the titan to clean it. Blow it out with compressed air first, then spray it out with a generous amount of motor cleaner and spin the rotor until it feels clean and smooth. Then blow out with compressed again to get the excess cleaner out. Let it dry and apply a drop of oil (again, I do use 3 in 1 and its been great, but there are other choices) to each bushing on the ends of the motor. Let it sit and soak in. Do this every 3-4 packs.
    For break in, search the forums for ideas. There are multiple ways to do this. Some are said to be better than others. It depends on how technical you want to get... but DOING the break in is EXTREMELY important.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by sliding_josh
    My LHS breaks my motors in Windex for 5min...
    Could you expand on this a little? Do the hook it up to a battery and drop in it a glass or jar of windex?
    Too many characters and not enough space allowed.

  11. #11
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    not sure I would be comfortable submerging my new motor in a liquid.

  12. #12
    RC Champion
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    Quote Originally Posted by stromyer
    not sure I would be comfortable submerging my new motor in a liquid.
    That won't hurt it.
    ◄▲▼► SUMMIT ●○●○● 2 RUSTLER VXL's ●○●○● MERV ◄▲▼►

  13. #13
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    BRUSHED Motor break in under water is a normal thing... at least in the slot car world.
    Process there:
    - use a power source (controllable if possible, see below)
    - attach motor leads to power source
    - fill container with unfiltered tap water (I use a 2"x2"x4"h plastic LocNLoc, with a pair of 1 3/4" OD washers weighing down the bottom... since the motor is suspended by the lead wires).
    - run motor in water at 3v for about 5min
    - run motor in water at 6v for about 5min
    - remove and lube bearings
    - change water
    - run motor in water at 9v for 10min
    - remove motor and blow out with compressed air to clean out motor
    - spray with motor cleaner (alcohol content dries out water in small places)
    - lube bearings on both ends of motor shaft
    - place motor in some quick clamps so it doesnt walk around
    - run motor OUT of water for about 10min at 6v, so that it can spin and generate some heat to help dry it out.
    - install the pinion
    - install motor in the car and get after it!

    The power supply that I use for the break-in process is:
    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=120-536

    You only need to break in a brushed motor once. THe exception to that, is if you rebuild a brushed motor, change the brushes out in one, or change the comm, because the break-in process is really the process of molding/fitting the brushes to the comm.
    I recommend doing that via proper break-in rather than using comm drops like VooDoo drops. (not that i havent juiced a motor in a pinch).

    Personal note... I would NOT recommend this for a brushless motor. Completely different operational theory with those motors, therefore the process isnt really applicable.

    Good luck.
    2x Rustlers and LOTS of Slot Cars

  14. #14
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    umm yeah... I think I will just follow the basic steps on the manual. That is a bit more than I want to get into.

  15. #15
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    I'm pretty sure Traxxas official view is to not use a water break in and they suggest breaking the Titan in as the manual suggests. That being said breaking brushed motors in submerged in water has been around for decades and many experienced racers back in the days when brushed motors ruled the track used that method on all their motors with very good results.
    BlindMan Racing
    Rusty - MERV - Pede 4x4-Alias
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dadx2mj
    I'm pretty sure Traxxas official view is to not use a water break in and they suggest breaking the Titan in as the manual suggests.
    I totally agree and would stand by the TRX path as well.
    Thats why when someone mentioned water, then someone questioned it, I explained it. It does however state at the top of it for brushed slot car motors.

    I did NOT break my Titan in via the water method.
    I am also not custom winding my own motors either.
    2x Rustlers and LOTS of Slot Cars

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