Results 1 to 20 of 20

Thread: Ouch!

  1. #1
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Westchester County, New York
    Posts
    162

    Ouch!

    Just went 3S LiPo and I guess I need to make my driveline bulletproof! Today, I only got about 5 mins of total run time because I first blew out the left side driveshaft and then after I replaced it, I blew out the right side. I guess with BL and 3S, I need to install the MIP CVD kit huh?

    Whatever, it is worth it. 5 mins BL 3S is better than 5 weeks of 12T brushed 7.4 nimh!

    What else should I do?
    All we know is; hes called The Stig.

  2. #2
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    1,352
    1.loosen your slipper a bit,
    2.keep your rear end as close to parallel to the ground as possible, if youve got your truck raised, that is part of the problem.
    3. if you are jumping, do NOT apply ANY throttle when you land.
    is there an 'AA' for RC addicts?

  3. #3
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Westchester County, New York
    Posts
    162
    Thanks.
    I will check the slipper. I think it is a quarter to 1/2 turn out.
    The rear end is level.
    Thanks for the tip about landing on the throttle - makes perfect sense!

    What about getting a CVD kit? Does anyone have pics of them installed?
    All we know is; hes called The Stig.

  4. #4
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    1,352
    personally, i have a problem justifying the cost of the CVD's, from what people have said herem they break also. the stockers are cheap and easy

    if you had the throttle pinned during landings, that was definately your problem, give the stockers another chance!

    what part did break exactly? if its the diff output yokes, they do make steel ones that people have good results with, but again $$ and they will wallow out too..
    is there an 'AA' for RC addicts?

  5. #5
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Westchester County, New York
    Posts
    162
    Yeah - The tabs on diff output yokes snapped clean off both times - the pins didn't just spin out of the tabs. The strange thing is, I wasn't jumping at the time. I was running on loose dirt on a baseball diamond.

    3S POWER!!!
    All we know is; hes called The Stig.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. CarGuy7a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Gettin' Lucky In KY
    Posts
    3,894
    You don't need CVD's. I hardly ever break driveline components even on 3s. I also run 1/4 to 1/2 out on the slipper.

  7. #7
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Westchester County, New York
    Posts
    162
    Both parts that snapped were the original stock parts that have put up with a lot of bashing since I got the truck last November (first on 12T, then VXL system on 8.4v, and now with 3S). With that in mind, I am sure they took a lot of abuse before I introduced 3S to the equation! Certainly justifies the FAIL!
    All we know is; hes called The Stig.

  8. #8
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    World's Largest Archipelago
    Posts
    1,173
    I occasionally switch the left and right driveshafts. Somehow it helps, as you're balancing the stresses on both rotational directions and prevent them turning into pretzels
    Myth busted: Blitz is not faster on the track.

  9. #9
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    242
    I'm going through the same thing with the VXL and only a 8.4.....broke one side then the next battery got the other side.....I was about to switch to steel...but not sure what to do know.....the stockers had about 4 months of running on them...and never on the gas in the air...usually on the brake to bring the nose down....but thought that might cause it too....*shrugs*

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    11,223
    Go with the steel outdrives instead of CVDs. Ive been running stock driveshafts with steel outdrives for months with no issues. Broke my first set last week but they have lasted a long time. Some have o.k. luck with CVDs but most end up breaking them also anyway. The steel outdrives are a better overall choice IMO.

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Calais, Vermont
    Posts
    700
    I destroyed both sides of the MIP setup in less then two packs with a mild brushless, and I had to severely limit uptravel in the rear shocks to prevent binding with that setup.

    I can ussually get between ten a fifteen packs through the stock axles before something lets go, and they are cheap to replace.

    I have noticed that the axles last way longer if the truck is set so that the shafts are straight (no angle on the U-joints) when at ride height.
    It sure seems like sense is no longer common.

  12. #12
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
    Posts
    1,066
    Check out Traxxas P/N 6852. Those are the rear driveshaft assemblies for the 4x4 Slash and are markedly more robust.
    / 16

  13. #13
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    1,552
    Hmm.. at the price of those, it may be worth looking into the venom CVDs that come out end of this month.. they're steel and cost about 16$, which is about the same as two of the rear drive shafts for the 4x4 cost.

  14. #14

  15. #15
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
    Posts
    1,066
    Quote Originally Posted by sdrubow
    That looks legit.
    / 16

  16. #16
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Westchester County, New York
    Posts
    162
    Quote Originally Posted by sdrubow
    Cool. I will see if my LHS has these parts from Axial.

    Does anyone have the Venom parts and could offer up an opinion?
    All we know is; hes called The Stig.

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    859
    I saw a picture here recently with what looked like 1/10 revo driveshafts (the ones with the blue rubber sleeve on the u-joint) anyone know what the details are on that setup?
    Chris
    Summit 4s
    DiggerPede 2s & 3s
    Slash 2WD 2s

  18. #18
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    1,552
    those are jato ones, I believe.

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    393
    I have beet the crap out of my CDV's I love them and would never look back, I can run a tighter sliper, and better/bigger tires
    the plastic is always going to be a weak link in my opinion

  20. #20
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Westchester County, New York
    Posts
    162
    Ha ha haaaa.... I guess I need not complain about drive yokes right now. They were replaced and now I just grenaded my diff.

    Gotta love 3S.
    All we know is; hes called The Stig.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •