I'll upload them all ASAP...
***You Build It ...I'll Jump It!!!*** OS .18 TZ; Trinity Pipe; HCR Titanium Skid Plates & Bumpers; Futaba S9450 Throttle Servo; Airtronics 94358Z Steering Servo; RPM A-arms & Knuckles; FOC; Lunsford Titanium Hinge Pins,Turnbuckles, Push Rods & Rocker Posts; New Era Roll Bar & Engine Mount; Proline Mashers on Velocity Rims.
Time for an update.
What you see here is one tough Esc
The truck Is still running fine. The last week I did some waterskipping with the Erbe, and it didnīt turn out so good.... Iīve got the truck submerged... picked it up... and It was still running fine .
So afterthat I felt very comfortable with the waterproofing of my mamba max... So, I changed to the LT rockers, and geared it for around 20Mph and went out for some watercrawling
"2.4 GHZ donīt work good under water..
I took my old hardcase lipos and submerged the truck many times without any real issues, the onlything that happend is that I discovered the truth about 2.4ghz systems and not working under water, it works just a tad under the surface, but if you go just a little bit deeper it wonīt work.
And then there was problems...
The truck ran fine and my lipos was going strong ( and still is ) for three packs, but then...when I was rockcrawling ( not in water ) it started to cogg a bit, just a bit..so i thought that " naah itīs nothing, itīs just something temporary"...so I continued to drive until I dit the LVC.
After that I put the truck on the desk until the next day. The next day, I took my freshly charged lipos, and went out...The esc started up normaly with all the beeping and stuff..but there was a "No go" today.... it just cogged it cogged until you hit full throttle and then it jumped away like crazy. I tried with other lipos and stuff but still the same thing..
This has happend to me before but It has never been so bad as it was this time. The other times I have just dried it for a few minutes with the hairdryer and it have turned back to normal but that didnīt work.. So I took the plastic case off the Esc and started to scratch off the plastidip..
There was a huge amount of water under the plastidip at the PCB board I just donīt understand how in this world the esc could even powerup and do itīs beeps.
Any way, I dryed the esc, plastidiped it again and itīs now working like nothing has happend Thats One tough Esc Hands up for Castle creations!
Well thanks for the mention !! I am glad you enjoyed the vids from back in the day !! I still have the majority of my vids still kicking around the internet . I still own a TRAXXAS REVO !!!! and my brother in law is running my old TMAXX . I now have a track in my backyard and now that the weather has turned its time to R/C .
Great write up man , very informative and pictures say a thousand words .
mvbashers dedicated to bashing the BB revo
Thanks freez I can say that I am one happy man now, all my bash idols have written something in my thread .
I am very glad to hear that you freez, and airmaxx and rick still is a bit active, ( if not driving atleast reading and posting here at the forum ).
Backyard track is nice, just go out when you feel for it and make a race of your own rules .
Thanks for all the positiv comments, I will update ASAP when I get time.
Keep on going guys! you sure know how to bash
So, one of my bearings blowed in my rear diff again...Causing me to strip de ring gear again... This time the bearing went much faster, because this time the diff was shimmed.
Does anyone know if there is a 6x12 bearing with sidewall support? with that kind of bearing my diffs would never walk away on me.... or should I go with the Lst diffs? Opinions would be great.
What do you do when you have to drive and the diff is gone and you donīt have any spares? You take your dremel, cut down the tops on the ring gear, clean everything up, shimm the diff trough the roof and go out and play iīll post pics of the cutted ringgear when I change next time
sounds like a good idea , would love to see pics . I always had a rebuilt spare diff or two laying around .Originally Posted by Manne
mvbashers dedicated to bashing the BB revo
I have some pics of the cutted ringgear now, it worked for...two runs, you can se where itīs sanded down. here it is:
I recieved my new diffs bought here in Sweden a few days ago..Iīve got pretty surprised when I opened tha package..do you see whats wrong with this pinion?:
It should be a hole in the middle if it is the 3.3 version....So this is the old 2.5 version...and thats not enough.. You guys from the old thays probably remembers that we had a big diff issue with the revoīs diffs in the begining because of wrong constructed ring and pinion gears...
They were too small so they didnīt mesh good at all... Those gears that I recieved is the old old old first version So I used the used 3.3 pinion that I had from before since it was bigger and much beefier than the pinion that I recieved. The ring gear was about 3 tooths smaller then the 3.3 version.. anyway, I strapped everything in and the mesh was good after some shimming. But after only one and a half run the rear wheels locked up completly...I opened it up and discovered this:
I donīt want to open my diffs every second run... I can smell something comming soon, something good..Donīt know what itīs going to be tho, lst diffs or all alu stock diffs?
Time for a small update.
Iīm currently running with the newest version of the diffs with alu cups and one shim and it work very very good so far.
And again my mamba max takes the word "durability" to a new level.. This is what happend..:
A friend was at my place and I thought Iīd let her try the Erbe since she was doing so well with the Merv...she drove around the track, drove outside the track, then the truck got stuck pretty bad and she nailed it.....it was standing there cogging for about...30-40 seconds before I saw what was going on and could tell her to not continue nailing it....
I walked right to the truck...And there was smoke... SO MUCH SMOKE from the mamba max... And the motor was hot, like YAY hot...
I took off the plastic housing of the mamba when everything had cooled down... the plastidip had been so warm that the colour had gone from red to black....
I reassembled the mamba, charged the lipos and tried to run the truck. It cogged like crazy, not driveable... So I took my other speedcontroller but it was the same thing so I a new mill.
I bought a "random" 1900kv XL motor for 34$ or something like that, I also bought a airplane motormount who acts as a clamp, and whola, the mamba max works like normal! Isnīt that just amazing? the mamba most have been waay over 200f to make the plastidip smoke and turn black...
Much cleaner install this time:
I have also made a temporary brace for the motorplate and I ordered a 14tooth mod1 pinion and Nitro revo spurs, 38 / 40 tooth.
I also made a new "toghetertie" for the front and center skid:
Thats all for now. Next comming up: New body and? what more?
I opened my rear diff for inspection and bearing change... It looked very good at first sight, but when I removed the bearing on the ring-gear it just fell apart
I found out why doh... The aluminium cup from GH is to big and doesnīt sit flat on the ring-gear, it sits on the tooths. So I grinded the edge that has marks on it down from the ring-gear so the cup fits as it should, and now I have 25hours on it and still going strong.
I also bought a 1515 since my china motor gave up on me, a new body and some new shoes. The tires are belted from factory No balooning at all, good and bad.
With the old tires I could easily pull wheelies at 35, Now Iīm limited to something around 20Mph... More easy to get up on these steep climbs in the gravelpit but not so fun on the football fields..
The biggest plus with the new tires is the runtime they are about half the weight ( almost ) of my previous tire/wheel combo, my runtimes has gone from 30 to 40 minutes , pretty amazing.
I think It was time for new shoes
Now when the truck continously works, The last weak part in the drivetrain keeps giving in, the shafts, I will be replaceing them soon with this:
Any way, the shafts wears out faster out by the wheels so I always have more of either females or males of the shafts so I found a way to fit either on either side. This is what I did, the pictures will talk for them selves.
So I cut it off.
And this one:
And thatīs how you use both halves of the shaft on one side
Since Iīve got a new motor and body I made a "rollbar"
It was easy to do, the motormount wont flex at all anymore, it has taken some serious abuse, 10feet high air to roof without bending Strongly recomended.
I see you put your BEC inside your receiver box. I was wanting to do that but I read somewhere where you are supposed to mount it where air can flow through it, something like at least a 5mph wind flow.
I assume you havent had any issues?
Race Hard! Ask Questions Later!!
No, no issues at all, I have had the bec like this for more than 50hours, no problems what so ever
I Have had sucessfully 40hours of trouble free diffs And I am NOT gentle It has seen aloooooot of double backflip attempts and have landed with full throttle many many times
It was now time to open them for inspection and to install shims in the diff cup and I-beams since the small outputs to the drivshafts have started to become slopy .
It didnīt take much grinding before they fitted in the cup , The Gh cup required least grinding, it almost fitted stock. The one on this picture is for the silver one which required more grinding.
Stock vs modified:
Fitted in the cup:
In the last picture you can see that this modification was needed since the pin for the bevel gears has started to eat trough the walls inside the silver cup.
And some action pics of the beauty
I broke a rim:
And then when my tire balooned the broken rim made the tire explode...So I bought some new!
Belted truggy style:
Itīs pro-line Crimefighters on rulux halfups.
Shimming the pinion in the revo diffs isnīt really right, because it makes it miss a line on the ringgear wich makes the diff stripp more easily.
So I have a "new" way to do it:
This is how the bearing sits in itīs original place on the Gh cup:
So I filed it down to make the bearing sit further in on the cup, this is needed to make the diff move freely in the outer housing after you have installed shims on the ringgear side:
Then I put shims on the ringgear side:
And the bearing:
In order to make the pinion bearings last I fill the space between the two bearings with diff lube:
And then on with the bearing:
Apply a big amount of lube inside the housing too ofcourse:
And that is how you make the stock diffs last as long as possible
Well, Iīve got a broken chassis again.....Seems like Iīm in need of a alu chassis, my conversion never had this much bulkhead problems..
I forgot to mention that I now have summit shafts They have already lasted more then 10 hours, that is 9hours longer than the stockers.....
Great build thread, thanks for the wealth of info. I am planning on building a basher as well.
summit shafts rock!!!
So how do you like the crimefighters? Are the foams lasting?
Is the diff lube better than lithium grease for filling gaps?
Thats pretty clever what you did with that GH cup. Theres some pretty serial carnage in this thread
I just cant believe how much carnage there IS in this thread. Its only 2 pages and has more broken parts than most entire forum sections do.... but its extremely interesting to see how your overcoming all the little (and big) issues that pop up. Ill be referencing this thread as I work through the issues with my ERBE...
Also, good to see you finally got a quality motor. For the whole first page and a half I was waiting for you to finally get rid of the junk motors. Your truck deserved something good.
Excellent work so far.
Iīm just glad to help I hope youīll get it right
I like the crimefighters, the foams are very hard and I havenīt had any issues, but I donīt like the halfups... I think the lube is better, it really makes it way in inside the bearings
Thanks! Yeah I know, you should see my mountain of broken parts....
Haha yeah I know, and the stuff I post here is only a tiny tiny piece of all the carnage... I just want to share to help people out with the weak spots...And Yes! It was a shame that I didnīt buy a castle/neu in the first place Iīm glad I finally got it done right.
I want to step up to 5s since I think 4s have gotten a bit to slow and weak, Iīm geared pretty agressive already ( about 46mph ) I like the speed but I want it to be like my 2.5 conversion..It was like this: top speed 45mph, wheelies at44mph.... on 4s. Maybe it was because I was running non half ups with mashers wich balooned like crazy?
Iīm scared of 5s tho...All these carnages and drivetrain problems on 4s...what in the world will happend on 5s? I really really hate to say it, but Iīm leaning towards a flux.. . I wish rc mike would start to do hybrids again, then I could slap in some BP diffs without suffering from removing material for getting Lst diffs in..
Iīm sad now.
Well, I thought that it was time to get something done about the chassis snapping and bulkhead breakage.
I started with a 3.3 chassis.
All the material uncutted 1435G:
After all the cut outs and fine tuning 1072G, now that is a big boy, I like steel:
I bent all the taps on the chassis so they were in a straight line in order to mount the plates:
Countersunked all screws:
Added the 3.3 rollbar:
The rear end and the gearbox dropped in:
Last edited by Manne; 11-20-2010 at 03:28 PM.
Fitted the radiobox:
And the front end:
It all ended up like this:
Now that is some ride HEIGHT!
I made two additional braces for each battery mount since the tabs on the chassis isnīt strong enough:
I was going to use a E-maxx brushless single mount but they didnīt have any in stock here in sweden...So I just figured that I would do a mount by myself just so I could drive until I recive my mount from the states....But then I discovered that I didnīt have gears that were big enough for a proper gearmesh.. So I had to mount the motor backwards to the front with the E-revo mount.
I just threw in the mamba max in a hurry since I couldnīt do the "plumbing" in a proper way since the motor are mounted backwards, it turned out really crappy, it looks like s**t..
Any way, I mounted the 23mm adapters and the paddle tires and went out for a little bash session in the powder It performed rally good, for about seven minutes then the esc decided to fry, so now itīs on the bench again but we will be up and running soon again!
More to come:
I will get some Lst diffs and a Hcr titanium full skid And some 5s packs, then we will be all set I think
Last edited by Manne; 11-20-2010 at 03:19 PM.
That chassis is freaking awesome!!!
Haha thanks, but I think I need the previous stated stuff to make it meet my needs
I really dislike that I couldnīt mount the motor in the right way. As I said before, I will redo that soon.
I was thinking of makeing the whole battery trays in carbonfiber instead of steel but I donīt know if Iīm up for it, I only have a Dremel and I have never worked with carbonfiber before.
Iīm thinking of buying this esc: Click
Since I will be running 5s..With plastidip: If I buy a mamba monster, then plasti dips it and if it then fryes itīs going to cost me 70dollar plus shipping for the non warranty service..And it will take alot of time, it will only cost me ten dollar more to buy a new HK esc.. I think I will go for it.
Last edited by Manne; 11-22-2010 at 07:42 AM.
Thanks for weighing the chassis. I was looking for the weight of the plastic chassis. I'm building a light weight slayer pro and I was always curious if the plastic chassis weighed less than the aluminum one. I'm actually surprised they weigh the same. At least now I know, thanks again.
No problem. I weighted them several times to make sure that what I saw was true, didnīt believe it first. Post the slayer build!
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...odest-E-Slayer Long story short, even reducing the weight of the old chassis/suspension still caused it to traction roll all the time. But now w/ the longer chassis and wider stance the reduced weight makes a huge difference. It's actually enjoyable to drive. I'll be installing a carbon fiber vantage chassis tomorrow. BTW, the vantage chassis is 5.25 ounces compared to the blue aluminum 9 ounces.
Last edited by mistercrash; 11-23-2010 at 10:52 AM.
It's been fun. See ya.
Feel free to speak Mc, good or bad Iīm no flame guy
When I was geared for 50, they ballooned a little, but absolutley NOTHING compared to the talons or similar "non belted" tires. They wear fast onroad, but they have good grip overall. Just think about one thing before you go with belted ones, the wheelies at high speed will be more difficult, and it will get more diffucult to make backflips. Personaly I like non belted tires more, I like stupid fast wheeliestandingbackflipgyroeffect POWER, but a LHS here in Sweden had them on sale so I had to buy them.
Since this is a narrower tire than the talons, does that effect handling in any way?
Aha I see, we are all different . Yeah, the ruluxes are very very light! I donīt like the half ups tho.. I think that the sidewall gets too thin for bashing and jumping but it may be good for you. Hm, the truck is more on a rail road with these tires, with the Talons I get the feeling of that the truck is floating around on some soft mushrooms... :P