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  1. #1
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    Manneīs Bash Build project.

    Well, i have done alot of work on my truck and i just thought that I would clean up my post and post the build pics, mods and info here I bought the truck in july I think? and i was dying for the waterproofness, I just love the thought of driving in water and other wet conditions without worries. I will start with photos of the upgrades and then show the mods further down .

    Here is the truck, brand new, Time of use: None. It sure looked lovely as H**l.





    And here is the absolutly first modification, a fan for the motor :





    This shot is taken after aproximitly 10hours on the track with it. On this picture i hade my first upgrades on it, tan springs in the rear, home made swaybar, Alu rockers front, ballbearings in the rockers and the servo saver, Hitec Hs-85MG and blu alu shock retrainer and spring adjuster.




    Then I bought rpm revolver rims and pro-line dirthawgs, great combo, but i donīt like the look of it, I want wider tires..and they donīt hook up too well on grass....




  2. #2
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    After that my first big package came, In the package I found:
    ALOT of spare stock parts, Poor market Alu servo protectors, STRC motor plate, The toyīs ( I think) Alu rockers, Gpm alu skid plates front and rear, HR alu knuckles ( the new version with O-rings), GPM alu shocktowers, Hitec Hs82MG servo, Hitec Alu servo horn, A Driven production alu heatsink for the motor and poor market steel center cvdīs.

    Some of the parts:


    The result on the truck:


    Belly shot:

  3. #3
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    And then I ordered a Package with A Gpm Alu servo saver unit, Pro-line sand-paws, another set of revolvers ( crome this time) for the pawīs and some spares, diffs, diff oil, arms, bulkhead and such.







    And then I bought some Alu arms from new era ( one of my best upgrades) A new era rollbar and Traxxas Cvdīs.



    And thatīs pretty much it on the buy-list part Now itīs time for all the mods

  4. #4
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    So, I have done ALOT to the truck, alot of grinding, cutting and thinking, so I just thought that i would share to save the rest of you from thinking to much until the brain goes up in flames .

    All parts worked and fitted fine except the stupid center shafts that I ended up to do this modification to in order to keep the pins secure in place:



    The rollbar fitted fine in itīs original mounts but it felt more solid to have it screwed down like this instead of screwing it to the recieverbox as it should be. It was SO stiff i really had to use my muscles to bend it to the right shape I should have heated it up first but i didnīt have anything to heat it with





    This is the first version of my swaybar, I will redo a better version for the summer running that wont be using the shock screws to hold it down:





    Last edited by Manne; 03-15-2010 at 07:16 PM.

  5. #5
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    This is the steering servo-saver mod that i came up with to eliminate ALL slope :

    1#First of, this part must be sanded down about 1mm where marked:



    2#This bearing holder must be sanded down, you can either sand it on the edges like shown:




    Or you can sand the flat side of it, the problem of sanding as i have shown is that if you are using a bearing on the bottom of the saver ( that should sit in this ring) you might get some binding because the bearing gets pinched. iīm using a bearing in the top next to the skid, and a bushning in the bottom since the busning can be sand down if needed, I did NOT sand my bushning. If Using a bearing, I recommend to sand on both spots, the flat side and the spots i showed on the picture, sand the flat spot as much as possible.

    3#The bearing holder sits here:



    4#Looks like this when mounted:



    5#Remove material on this part on the marked RED spots, itīs needed to make sure the spring really pushes down the servo arm part:



    6#This picture Shows were you should have a small small gap, if you donīt have any gap at all, sand part#1 More:



    Now you are done assemble and go out and ENJOY your slope free steering

  6. #6
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    I have gone trough a few sets of bulkheads and I have read about so many people who cracks them so i felt that i just had to solve the problem in times like this with lack of alu bulkheads and a proper fully undercarriageskid not made of stupid plastic materials.

    This is the first version made of thin sheet metal, it worked fine for hits from the underside, but due to more stres from alu-arms and cold i had to make a new version to also help the side flex:



    This is the new beefy version, I can not in any way bend it with my bare hands. On the centerskid itīs bolted down in the screw holes that goes into the bulkhead with longer screws and some shims from the big erbe, itīs shims for adjusting bump steer :







    Itīs beefy but one man canīt do 1000jobs jus by himself so I made a buddy, Guess were this fella mounts eh?:


  7. #7
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    Test fit just to see if everything lines up, and of course itīs a completly perfect fit





    Mounted:







    Shock bed grinded down to make the shock screws reach the bulkhead, new shock beds in form of braces were made by the ERBES bump-steer braces:



    Cutted skid in order to make my custom one fit over it:

    Last edited by Manne; 03-15-2010 at 07:45 PM.

  8. #8
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    It was necessary to do this braces due to this forces which ripps the screws trough the chassis when the bulkhead snaps because of one of the rear tires being pushed back as the pictures shows:





    And this is how the force is divided with the brace on:



    The left bulkhead follows the right one which makes the hole package to hold up instead of cracking.

    This is a prototype I used first just to see if my thinking about the force was right:





    It worked good so I made the big ones, and itīs holding up to ANYTHING I throw at it right now , now iīm just afraid that my front end will start snapping

  9. #9
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    This is My home made turnbuckles, they donīt look good at all ( itīs just a prototype ) but they are made of thick STEEL so they are not giving up on anything





    And this is my home made pushrods....they are extended to give more ground clearence for that deep fluffy powder that we have here in Sweden right now



    I Also have a modification to the batteryboxes, ( They will soon get new alu doors from a poor market manufactor ), this works good and i like it, I squeez the battery wires trough the opening and then shuts the battery door, safe and secure.

    Last edited by Manne; 03-15-2010 at 08:20 PM.

  10. #10
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    I have had one major concern about this truck....acording to... the fre**ng steering servo...First of all the gears went dead in just a few days, and with the new gears the servo died after a week... The main purpose of this truck was to be able to use it in wet conditions, so aftermarket servos didnīt quite cut it in the winter with moist and stuff...so first off i thought that i just should use dual stock servos great idea! but it was cheaper to just use one of the Erbes steering servos so cutting chassis here we go!

    Here is the first badlooking ugly version, I keept the mounting ears on the servo on one side and tried to screw it in place on one side and using zipties and double sided tape on the other side.... it worked.... but did NOT look good at all...





    So.....I bought a new chassis and tried again... This time I cutted of both ears of the servo and used super glue to fit it instead:

    Servo comparission:


    Servo fitted on the wrong side....




    Looks good so far...but...


    The servo is so big that it wonīt let the gearbox sit in the chassis when the servo is mounted on the left side:


    So i just mounted it on the right side...but got tired of the overall cutted chassis, so I bought a new chassis again and redid the whole thing

  11. #11
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    And this is how he is looking right now :



    After more then 100hours of bashing and racing I am very satisfied with the truck. I think the three best upgrades are: New steeringservo, Alu Knuckles in every corner and Alu skids.

    I think the best mods are: The custom Chassis braces, the cvdīs, and three to four shimms in each diff.

    There will be a package with a new wing, wing mount, rear body mount in alu, front bodymount in alu and a Fullrollcage sooner or later...but it has to wait because the great Erbe is going to get some new stuff right now...

    This is my Mervīs powerplant Btw :



    Is there anyone who has any idea of upgrades or mods that I should do other than this:

    Velcro mod again as soon as i get new doors,

    Dual shocks ( mine is empty after two bash sessions........)

    2.4GHz system is comming,

    And a real waterproof Erbe 2075 instead of that old poor steeringservo will be mounted in the truck..

    Is there Anything left? And what do you all think about my little friend?
    Last edited by Manne; 03-15-2010 at 08:25 PM.

  12. #12
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    Thank you so much for posting all your mods in a dedicated thread! I didn't follow the snow bash thread as it doesn't snow (much) her. Good unique work. Thanks for sharing!
    Chris
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  13. #13
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    I'm also happy you posted this. It seems like your truck defies traditional logic!

    How'd you lengthen the push rods?

  14. #14
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    I was gonna ask the same thing, I used a metal antenna tube to add some length to mine, with crazy glue. I gotta say the 1/10 servo mod has me thinking about buying a spare chassis and seeing if I can't back it off the front and use exsisting tabs still
    Traxxas should just cash my checks for me

  15. #15
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    Thanks for the nice and kind inputs, another thing to the buy list, ( which is already bought and will arrive soon) is a new reciever box, i cutted mine to use a balloon instead because of moist getting inside the box, the old box got bent in some way very wierd .

    About using the ears on a big scale steering servo..itīs possible, but only if you are willing to offer a battery box... it a "no way" fit otherwise...

    The pushrod is extended like this:

    First, just cut the pushrod in to pieces, then drill a small hole ( the right size for your choice of threaded pin) screw down a threaded pin with help from a plier in one of the two pushrods and then screw them togheter, re inforce by filling the gap with some kind of glue or similar, then strengthen with duct tape easy as that.







    Now I want something to modify! give me a mission boys and girls

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manne

    Now I want something to modify! give me a mission boys and girls
    Your mission, if you choose to accept it, is to make my darn diffs stop breaking. You must fit 1/10 scale revo diffs in the MERV.

    I expect a solution by tomorro 0600
    Chris
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  17. #17
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    LOL after these upgraded bulkheads my diffs are almost indistructable. Ooh, make a locked diff or spool that won't break, a front brace for this, so when I race in fluffy stuff I have that pull to steer better! As it is now I have a sparre locked diff for the front and it works wonders on sand and smooth pavement, only I can see the bulkhead stressing even the newones close to the center of body ends, they still open. That would be sweet! And suspension screws that follow thru body and diff with mounting brace underneath to distinute the force instead of being a lever in one place! And a water tight battery bay!
    Traxxas should just cash my checks for me

  18. #18
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    so you like aluminum a-arms? I have not goten any because I've heard that they are to strong and they transfer impact force to the chassis. have you had any problems?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Krispy
    Your mission, if you choose to accept it, is to make my darn diffs stop breaking. You must fit 1/10 scale revo diffs in the MERV.

    I expect a solution by tomorro 0600
    I'm in for this.

  20. #20
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    Hahaha I was looking at it...Maybe if i replace the whole bulkhead with the 1/10īs diff housings . A tip about diffs... shim them HARD. If you have fresh and "no slopy" bearings use 3 AE shims on ring gear side, if you have slopy bearings like i have use 4 shims. it binds a bit, but the diffs are unbrakable

    About alu arms, they havenīt givin me any issues, and now when i have all the bulkheadbraces it doesnīt mather if they did or not, my rear end is so stiff that the chassis will snap over the batteryboxes before the rear end dies

  21. #21
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    The problem I see with shimming the diffs hard is that it pushes the two bulk halves further apart. This problem would be eliminated with the newer style bulkheads. Or possibly with your metal skids.

    When I remove the skidplates I see a gap between the two bulk halves.
    I think taht is where my problem really is.
    Chris
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  22. #22
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    Actualy no the gap will dissapare when you install the skid thatīs the reason of why it is so important to not have a broken skid

  23. #23
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    If the gaps dissapear when together how do I end up with dirt in the bulkheads after running on baseball diamond?! They still seperate. It's nylon/plastic and must have play, hence the stripped diff problem people get. Well when using only 1 power series pack it can take it, but after that.... With your braces your actually canceling out that stress process. And shimming the junk outta them! The more binding you have shimming to extremes is going to lead to another way the diffs fail.
    Traxxas should just cash my checks for me

  24. #24
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    Manne, it's time to double up those shocks now...
    What have you learned today?

  25. #25
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    Anyone try to replace the pushrod with a shock?
    Traxxas should just cash my checks for me

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hvrc
    If the gaps dissapear when together how do I end up with dirt in the bulkheads after running on baseball diamond?! They still seperate. It's nylon/plastic and must have play, hence the stripped diff problem people get. Well when using only 1 power series pack it can take it, but after that.... With your braces your actually canceling out that stress process. And shimming the junk outta them! The more binding you have shimming to extremes is going to lead to another way the diffs fail.

    Itīs still a small gap when the skid is on, but you might have a point there. hm, but with unshimmed diffs in brand new bulkheads with a brand new chassis and new bearings i get a maximum of 5-6Hours before they say goodbye, with the super shimmed diffs i get 30hours plus so I think the shimmed version is better.... Iīm running 3s.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hvrc
    Anyone try to replace the pushrod with a shock?
    I don't think it has been tried, and with good reason. It would drive like a wet noodle!

    Lets say you replaced the pushrod with another spring/damper you would actually decrease the effective spring rate. This would be a nightmare to tune. This would be springs in series, and is generally a bad idea.

    Pampino's setup has the springs in parallel, which would effectivly double the spring rate.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hooke%27s_law

    If you are feeling froggy and want to mess with a pushrod rocker damper setup go with a 3rd spring setup. This allows you to control roll rate independently of pitch rate. This is a setup commonly used on race cars with heavy aero loads as it allows the car to be stiff when both wheels are compressed at the same time (like under breaking or acceleration, or aerodynamic load) but still allows the individual wheel rates to be rather low, which is great for mechanical grip. Check out the pic below.



    This is the best picture I could find on short notice, I have some much better pictures that I have personally taken on my PC at home.

    The thrid spring is located between the two rear rockers. This picture was taken on the Mclaren MP4-17. Pretty sweet stuff.
    Chris
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  28. #28
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    Freakin sweet!
    Manne, by all means if you get more time out of your diffs shim them till you hit the moon! You must be pushing yours to the extremes! I just race friends and visit local skateparks. I might actually encounter this since I'm still nimh untill my parcel arrives from hk. And again, your built is awsome! I'm gonna try and snag a few ideas and build at work
    Traxxas should just cash my checks for me

  29. #29
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    Yah i just did:P the moon almost fell down and yeah I am pushing it, I like to push it were can i uppload my quad and fiveturn backflips?.

    Make sure to post some pics at the forum! and most importent of all, have fun

  30. #30
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    Well, today was a sunny nice weather day, and the snow here have melted a bit and then got frozen again so now you are able to walk and drive... EVERYWERE so I have bashed the ERBE the whole day...

    I was driving at the lake and saw that it was openwater in a spot and i had my paddles on so I thought lets have some fun and go waterskipping . I ran the erbe over a few times with plenty of speed and it went well everytime . Then my erbe said hello to a wooden pole at 40mph...straight on it... So I had to take it inside for inspection...

    When I was done looking at the erbe I remebered my little Merv, so I decided to take it out and play with the water and man it was a blast I used an old 3s lipo and just ziptied it on the truck...and WOW is all I have to say, itīs just like a little boat itīs not like a snowmobile tho, you canīt turn on the water, but you donīt need almost any speed to make it over.

    I drove about 5mph until my front wheels hit the water and then pushed full throttle, it kinda works better than just driving at full speed I did take a few crappy photos, it was late in the day so it wasnīt that bright, nice and sunny anymore and itīs hard to drive and take pics so I will take some new another day but here is a little teaser:

    I also turned my paddles backwards in order to push the truck up, away from the water instead of digging down into it.

    It went submarine two times....




  31. #31
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    Starting position, not far from the water, blurry i know...







    Short distance:



    With the Erbe i made the whole long run

  32. #32
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    First of all: excellent work!
    I see you spent a lot of time modding the little revo, but I bet it was worth it
    Can I ask you a couple of questions?
    Where did you buy the new chassis and all the other spare parts? I live in Euope too and it's quite difficult finding spare parts at a reasonable price.
    Why in the last pictures the wheels (sand paw) are reverse-mounted?
    By the way, it's still quite cold up there ah?
    merv+lipo3s2p1500mAh20/30C=fun

  33. #33
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    Thanks alot! and yes it was worth it every single second.

    Yes you can, I buy my stock parts from Swedish online hobbyshopps and I buy all my optionparts Online at the toyz:

    http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/index.lasso

    Very nice company to deal with, fast shipping, good prices and no problems at all, thumbs up for them.

    The sandpaws is mounted backwards to push the truck up from the water and snow, and on 3s lipo you are getting to much traction if they are mounted the right way, the normal mounted position are a driveterain killer and itīs just to grippy. And yes, itīs cold and itīs snow feel free to ask more

    I will post some more actionpics of the water soon. I have them, just havenīt uploaded them yet

  34. #34
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    Thanks for the quick answer!
    I know thetoyz, but our custom charges too much for each shipping (it would be cheaper if I go collect them by my self)

    About the sandpaws: I knew there was a good reason to run them backwards

    PS: pics never hurt

    PPS: I almost forgot, I'm doing some sort of a list of compatible wheels & tyres for our merv: do you mind if I use one of your pic from post #30 in that list?
    Last edited by psimem; 03-24-2010 at 10:11 AM.
    merv+lipo3s2p1500mAh20/30C=fun

  35. #35
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    Go ahead and use my pics as much as you want!.

    hm where do you live? France? I hate toll costs and shipping cost .

    Today I did some waterskiping again... with a cameragirl.

    It went pretty good, it feels like you can go just as far as you want by using the "start slow and apply throttle on the water" method...If it starts to sink because of lack of speed and you give it some more throttle it comes back up again unless you give it a bit to much as I did when I was going for the long run and ended up on my lid

    I did some waterwheelies too

    My G3īs wonīt get wet:



    Small wheelie:



    Nice:


  36. #36
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    Thats a WHEELIE!:



    Going slow, real slow..:



    Well...thats a stand!:



    Almost flying above water:



    Sliding sidewards:



    Trying to turn right:



    Three wheels:



    Beutiful:



    This is a pic of the longrun:



    Wheen doing the long run you got to watch out for the rocks in the "parking" spot:


  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manne
    Go ahead and use my pics as much as you want!.

    - Thank you. And if you want to take a look at it, it's here.

    hm where do you live? France? I hate toll costs and shipping cost .

    - Almost got me, northern italy. The custom charges up to 40% of the object's value .

    Today I did some waterskiping again... with a cameragirl.

    - Lucky man

    It went pretty good, it feels like you can go just as far as you want by using the "start slow and apply throttle on the water" method...If it starts to sink because of lack of speed and you give it some more throttle it comes back up again unless you give it a bit to much as I did when I was going for the long run and ended up on my lid

    I did some waterwheelies too
    Very nice shots and beautiful land; I don't like cold too much, but the panorama compensates that
    merv+lipo3s2p1500mAh20/30C=fun

  38. #38
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    Thanks again. 40%...thatīs just... well lets say amazing to not get too frustrated .

    About the cold... iīm also tired of it now, I want my track to be snow free so me and the cameragirl can do some racing itīs spring right now, ( as you can see in the pictures there is no snow in the trees, looks depressing ) but today it started to snow again .

    How is it in Italy? green grass and 20 degrees Celcius? I want that

    And the list, Very very good work mate, it should be a sticky if there was a Merv FAQ thread here...

    Just one heads up, the revolver rims centrum where the wheel nut sits has to be thinned out a bit to get it to fit You can read and see it here in my snowbash thread: http://monster.traxxas.com/showpost....5&postcount=47
    Last edited by Manne; 03-25-2010 at 03:58 AM.

  39. #39
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    Well we still don't have 20 degrees (where I live) but at least now we are around 12
    It's a couple of winters that's quite cold (as example the 23rd of december we reached -13 degrees) at least from our point of view.
    Anyway I can't see the time when I'll dress only shorts and t-shirt.
    How is the summer in Sweden?
    merv+lipo3s2p1500mAh20/30C=fun

  40. #40
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    I want that too +12 is way better then +1..... . The summers in sweden is usually good, around 20Degres celcius so thats nice, guess we have both worlds, warm summers and cold winters with tons of snow

    Here are some more pics.

    Was that a boat that just went by?:O


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