Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    nc, usa, earth
    Posts
    681

    Question need some ideas and answers guys

    i recently acquired a emaxx brushless that wants a new lease on life. im not really sure what to do with it. i either want to go mild brushless 4s or go dewalt. it has a mxl6s and 2200kv now, but im not sure if i want to deal with throwing $1000 of parts at it to hold up to 4s.... but i may another option im contemplating is just a trail/mud/snow slow truck since i already have other bashers, and go fast rcs.

    chassis options.

    rc monster vmaxx and skids (like the looks of this one)
    flm lcg and skids
    flm extended and skids
    stock with ???? skids

    which one and why?

    bulks

    has one 7075 ga bulk in rear so i figure ill buy another for the front.

    driveline

    keep it stock
    traxxas c/f/r
    mip
    any other viable options?

    diffs

    see if i can make stock last?
    lst
    or???

    i plan on making a large rpm order for a arms, shock towers, skids etc. also plan on using traxxas big bores for shocks, undecided on slipper since it needs a new one, buy a robinson or go back to stock, or cd conversion?? going to have to buy another motor mount anyway as the one on it is junk.
    any suggestions or input is welcome and appreciated.
    thanks,
    Josh
    Last edited by wilsonj1018; 12-14-2015 at 11:16 AM.

  2. #2
    RC Champion PowerToTheMaxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,329
    If it is a new gen truck, it should stand up to 4s quite well. 6s not so much, although some people who dont crash have good luck with mostly stock parts on 6s. By new style, i mean a emaxx with a grey chassis with slanted battery trays, split spoke rims, and a front motor bias. Compare to the current maxx pictures on traxxas.com

    If its an old style, crack open the tranny and see if it has any metal gears. By this i mean flat black chassis with big slots in the battery trays. If you have metal gears in the tranny (easy modd if you dont yet), and new style diffs, youre good for most 4s, although go easy on it and be prepared to extend the track with new A-arms, axle carriers, ext.

    If you have aluminum bulks already, get UE or FLM aluminum shock towers. RPM towers flex like a bungee chord, which is bad for handling and will cause an excess in bent shock shafts. UE knucklehead towers are 7075aluminum, and you can modd some losi plastic body mounts onto them.

    Cant answer for the vmaxx chassis, but id go for the FLM extended chassis. Their LCG chassis by my memory isnt as strong as the extended one. FLM skids are a good option to tie the ends together, but they will bend fairly easily on impact. Consider reinforcing them with a brace running to the bulks. ALso, RPM wear plates are a good idea.

    GA 7075 bulks probably the best on the market, cant go wrong there. Get some ejector pins for pivot points on the A-arms. Plastix should work unless you are trying to break them. Nothing worse than a bent hinge pin stuck in your $75 indestructible bulkhead.

    On 4s, a new revo-style driveline is fine. Consider some 1/8th scale diffs if youre going to run in water, as the bigger bearings will last longer, or if you like wheelies and hard throttle application. Otherwise, set the punch control down a little, and you're good.

    Get RPM true track for the rear and st-racing concepts revo knuckles for the front. These will nearly eliminate popped pivot balls and the like.

    17mm hexes are a must, as are glued tires. If you have a old gen maxx, likely the tires arnt glued, this is easily fixed. New gen maxx, dont worry about it unless your're running 6s, in which case, you should unglue the tires, tape them, and reglue them.

    Cant really go wrong with a RR Gen 3 slipper. Only advantage of stock is plastic spur is cheap to replace if your motor slips and destroys the gear mesh. However, the RR spur will eat most brass pinions in a jam, and the pinion is easier to replace.

    Hope this helps, i gave a lot of short answers, some of this should be discussed in more detail, but this is a start.

    THanks,
    PTTM
    This parrot is NO MORE!!! This is an ex-parrot!!!

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    nc, usa, earth
    Posts
    681
    appreciate it, its a 3908 emaxx. im stil quite torn as to what i want to do with it as i have a pair of savage fluxes i beat on lol.

    the flm extended seems to be the strongest readily available so if i decide another basher thats the route ill take.

    flm towers seem to be the ticket as well for me, as much as i like ue, they are way overpriced.... i have well over 1k into each of my savages and dont really want to go that deep into anymore trucks lol.

    i like the castle torque limiting quite a bit, with it set reasonably would the stock diffs live a while?

    rpm true track is in the plans, are the front rpm revo carriers not worth getting?

    17mm is a a given LOL ive ruined way too many smaller, but i have a pile of 14mm hex wheels and tires.....

    i like the rrp setup personally, but if i can make do with the trx slipper it wouldnt hurt my feelings.

    thanks for your input, it has given me quite a bit of info to get the gears in my head turning lol. anyone else who chimes i will thank you in advance.
    Josh

  4. #4
    RC Champion PowerToTheMaxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,329
    FLM tower $24, UE tower $30...

    Get the aluminum pads for the stock slipper. $10, and ur good if you dont do the RRP. Stock graphite pads suck. Your truck may already have the aluminum ones, check the wear when you do the motor mount. Graphite pads are black ,aluminum ones are silver, so easy to tell the difference.

    If you stick to the stock chassis, consider a set of RPM bulkheads. $30 or so for both ends. Aluminum bulks will just cause the chassis to break at the ends, where the bulks mount. RPM bulks and FLM skids will reinforce this area, and might save you replacing a chassis. Or just be prepared to spend the $30 on a new stock chassis. THis is more likely in cold weather, btw.


    On 4s power, focus your money on structural upgrades, the driveline is good. If you are running in the snow/rain/water a lot, replace all the bearings yearly (although you might be able to save the upper tranny bearings for longer). Acer, Boca, or Avid are all good, avid are the best for quality vs cost in my experience.

    If you're running in the cold, look at RPM rod ends. For less than $10, they are less likely to sheer in the cold. They tend to strip easily but a little CA glue in the threads and they are as good as new.

    If you have a 3908, you might be good on steering. Even Traxxas high torque servos are considered weak tho, look at Hot Racing's Aluminum bellcrank kit and a nice dedicated servo. I have a HItec HS-7955TG (?) and its great. 333oz torque, titanium gears, ext. If you are just gonna drive around with it, no big deal, but you will appreciate the extra torque if you do a lot of off roading, or run bigger tires. Also, 1 servo is better than 2 as the 2 often end up fighting each other a little. Not a big deal, up to you. Any nice servos from your savages laying around?

    On motors: The dewalt honestly is very close to the MM2 in terms of power and torque on 4s. The MM2 is faster, but the DeWalt has more torque, which is what kills driveline parts.

    However, the MM2 is much more efficient. You will see 30-50% more runtime with a brushless motor than a brushed one, so i would keep the MM2 on 4s as supposed to a dewalt for that reason.

    Look around, you can find nice 17mm dish rims for $10 for a full set of 4, might help with your 14mm problem. Also, if you gear down the MM2 a little and depending on your steering, dish rims can be doubled up to make dualies, which are cool and good in powdery snow.

    I think the best method for you might be to upgrade as things break actually. Youll spend a little more down time waiting for parts, but you will save some money in the long run. Exception being the plastic chassis and aluminum bulks. Thats a disaster waiting to happen.
    This parrot is NO MORE!!! This is an ex-parrot!!!

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    nc, usa, earth
    Posts
    681
    i have to have a complete slipper either way its missing parts.

    still undecided on chassis probably just gonna bite the bullet and go full out flm with skids and towers.

    have piles of avids i buy 10 of each size when i need one LOL..

    rpm rod ends added to list..

    i have 5 or 6 7855tg laying around as they are all i use, but i may use the savox 1258tg thats in the truck

    thanks for the input pal im probably gonna start ordering stuff and tearing it apart tonight when i get off work.
    Josh

  6. #6
    RC Champion PowerToTheMaxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,329
    Savox is a good servo too. Not familiar with that one, but anything 300oz and .15s rotation is good. The stronger and faster the better.

    Make sure to use blue thread lock when assembling the aluminum parts. You probably know that, but just in case. Good luck!!
    This parrot is NO MORE!!! This is an ex-parrot!!!

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    nc, usa, earth
    Posts
    681
    yea the 1258 is weak/fast, i tested it out last night on carpet wont budge the tires so 7955 it is unless my order of solars show up soon.

    honestly i dont even bother with blue anymore, when you bash savages you gotta use red everywhere LOL have to heat my screws up with soldering iron on occasion, but they never back out.

    ill post an update thread when i make some progress on reviving the poor little maxx.

  8. #8
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Parker, CO
    Posts
    1,024
    honestly if you are just wanting to bump the durability up for 6S use, I would focus on the diffs.

    Find some UE ultralight cases and load them with Ofna buggy diffs. Upgrade the slipper to aluminum pads and let 'er rip. If you can swing it, get the matching set of GA bulks for the other end and some UE towers and the truck will take some serious abuse. Later on get the vmaxx chassis or join Centralemaxx on facebook and try to get a magneto chassis from Kmaxx.
    I have an RC problem...

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    nc, usa, earth
    Posts
    681
    no, no desire to run 6s in a maxx. thats what my savages are for, i built them to handle 6s stupidity and they do it very well.
    if i end up putting diffs in this, it will be lst diffs. im not aware of and cases or bulks they will fit directly into other than the small run of kmaxx cases.
    Josh

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier MaXXL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    400
    I've been running all stock components (3908) since I've went brushless and I've been happy bashing on 4s.

    Chassis hasnt broken yet so I'm keeping it. It's been thru some hard hits but the bulkhead broke first.

    Bulkhead was only broken once so I'm keeping the stockers.

    Stock diffs have held up great ever since the switch to stock 3908 style. Havnt had to touch them since.

    Stock driveshafts have some torn boots and once dirt gets in there they dont telescope freely like they should. They arent broken and the truck is still completely drivable but just the fact that they arent performing like they should bothers me. Whenever I finally pull the trigger, I will be buying some MIP splined CVDs as they have no boot to tear.

    TRX slipper with metal pads has performed well for me.

    Ate up enough 14mm hexes to know that not even the loosest slipper can save them lol. Switched to 17mm HPI hexes and havnt had a problem since.

    The only thing thats giving me trouble now is the carriers. They get really worn and rounded and the pivot balls pop out ending my bash session early. Did someone say RPM Revo carriers are the solution?
    Brushless Everything

  11. #11
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Eastern Shore, Maryland
    Posts
    1,625
    All I run is 6s. If you do a bunch of easy little finesse mods (I posted them over the years) you will have a nice little reliable rig on your hands. These finesse mods, I speak of, cost next to nothing to do, but do require a little bit of work. However, no matter what a person does, on occasion things will still break...that's just the way it is. But, a person definitely wants the breakage kept down to a minimum. Plus, they want to have gobs of fun. You can have both with the Emaxx with running 6s if you play your cards right and do some of these finesse mods. Good luck.
    Yes, girls dig me. It's the cross I must bare.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •