Page 14 of 14 FirstFirst ... 4121314
Results 521 to 542 of 542
  1. #521
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    333
    Can someone explain if Steve's explanation of using oil in the rear diff instead of grease is in the housing or the diff centre itself????
    Keep on Bashing and you will keep on Trashing

  2. #522
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MS
    Posts
    90
    The diff center, the plastic cup that is screwed to the ring gear. The diff housing is not sealed and will not hold fluid.

  3. #523
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    333
    Thanks turnleft, I'm going to work on diff tuning this weekend, with my lack of ability at the trigger I find I get to much wheel spin at the rears in loose conditions, centre diff is in.
    Keep on Bashing and you will keep on Trashing

  4. #524
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MS
    Posts
    90
    I have 10000 in my rear diff and it works great for loose conditions.

  5. #525
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    friendswood texas
    Posts
    1,528
    Quote Originally Posted by Scubbastevebmxr View Post
    What setup tools do you use Steve (or others)? I've been looking at hudy's off road setup kit and integy's setup kit. Any suggestions on total offroad setup systems?
    Just a basher here but I run steve's set up. I use toe and camber guage from RPM and they work great.

  6. #526
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    elkton,maryland
    Posts
    23
    why do you use thick weight shock oil in the front and rear shocks 55wt and 60wt seems very thick for offroad racing please help max

  7. #527
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    333
    Quote Originally Posted by maxxpower78 View Post
    why do you use thick weight shock oil in the front and rear shocks 55wt and 60wt seems very thick for offroad racing please help max
    To help absorb impact on the up ramp of a jump and to also help absorb landing, as you try to land front axle first on the down ramp of a jump. Softer in the rear to allow the rear end to squat under power to give more traction to the rear wheels.
    Keep on Bashing and you will keep on Trashing

  8. #528
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    4
    Hi,

    Can anyone help me get a setup for my race slash 4x4.

    Its running the STRC LCG chassis and the proline protrac kit. My track is a fairly bumpy outdoors track favoring the 8 scale nitro buggies. I have Texin RX8/Pro4 4600 and Savox 1258tg servo. I have the 13mm GTR shocks whith AE springs. Its really fast but tries to swap ends all too easily even whilst powering on the straight. It jumps great though but just not stable.

    My current setup is pretty much Sleydan's as far as oils and arm mounting points go, but running 3deg toe in and 2deg neg camber at rear. Shocks mounted middle on tower and full outer at rear. At front I got 1 deg toe in and 1 deg neg camber and got my shocks middle on tower and 2nd from outside on arms. I am running Sleydan's sway bars.

    My other truck is a race prepped TLR Ten SCTE 2.0 and that thing is just way faster and more stable everywhere, but it jumps real bad.

    Please help!!

  9. #529
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    pageland, sc(south of monroe)
    Posts
    4,772
    I have the gtr shocks on my truck. What springs should I look into running on these?
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  10. #530
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Maryland, USA
    Posts
    165
    Hi Guys,
    I have slash 4x4 and I am confused about this it has front differential oil, rear differential oil and center differential oil where did you put center differential oil? Any ideas....
    Front end:
    - outer steering link: front hole (plastic knuckles)
    - shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler fronts work well
    - camber link: outer/ lower & inner/ upper
    - diff: 10K to 15K

    Rear end:
    - sway bar: black
    - diff: 5K to 7K

    - install center diff (50K to 100K)

  11. #531
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    pageland, sc(south of monroe)
    Posts
    4,772
    Do you have a center diff for your truck? Or only a slipper? The center diff has a diff case you can open up just like the front and rear diffs that you can put oil in.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  12. #532
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    47
    Hi Guys,

    we have a race and bashing track in a local wood. Do have any recommendations what is the best setuo for my Conditions ? The wood soil is anywhere between hardpacked and loose (more loose than hardpacked) but not loamy and most of the time dry. The most important thing for me is acceleration and tracking stability, everthing else does not matter.


    Thanks for your help

  13. #533
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Oak Ridge, TN
    Posts
    84
    I have read this entire thread and onlt one unanswered mention of GTR shocks from the current slash ultimate .
    Is there a listing of all traxxas shocks, springs and their compatability, and sizes ?
    Their shock names are confusing.
    Slash Ultimate 4x4
    STAY AWAY FROM BIZARRE HOBBIES

  14. #534
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Selb, Germany
    Posts
    15
    Hi,
    what is a good setup for the street? I also drive a litte bit on gravel but mainly on street.
    Thanks

  15. #535
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Selb, Germany
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by aggie rustler View Post
    via RCShortcourse.com from sgrid - thanks mp3ranger


    Front end:
    - outer steering link: front hole (plastic knuckles)
    - shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler fronts work well
    - camber link: outer/ lower & inner/ upper
    - diff: 10K to 15K

    Rear end:
    - sway bar: black
    - diff: 5K to 7K
    Which unit do you mean? CPS/CST or WT?

  16. #536
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Poland
    Posts
    36
    The diff oils is always in cps.

  17. #537
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    1
    My brain is spinning. Is there anywhere I can find a glossary and some good fundamentals? Thanks

  18. #538
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    68
    At the shock positions, does he then mean #2 closest to the tire or closest to the chassis?

  19. #539
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Alicante, Spain
    Posts
    709
    Quote Originally Posted by Offroader13 View Post
    At the shock positions, does he then mean #2 closest to the tire or closest to the chassis?
    i think is from the tire... the one chassis will give it really really high centre gravity
    | Slash 4x4 | Stampede 4x4 | E-Revo BL | RPM |

  20. #540
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by traxxasvxlbasher View Post
    i think is from the tire... the one chassis will give it really really high centre gravity
    #5 is the one closest to the tire. #3 is the first hole closest to the chassis in the group of three bunched close together. The very first hole closest to the chassis isn't counted. Its for the the sway bar.

  21. #541
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by tobiasGERMANY View Post
    Which unit do you mean? CPS/CST or WT?
    The unit is cSt.

    10K cSt is around 770 wt.

  22. #542
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    44

    Question Help needed!

    Quote Originally Posted by aggie rustler View Post
    via RCShortcourse.com from sgrid - thanks mp3ranger

    From Steve Slayden on sgrid forum

    The stock AND the Platinum Slash 4x4 trucks are both setup out of the
    box geared toward super high bite surfaces like parking lots, asphalt
    and stuff like that. That is why there is a level of push in the
    chassis and the stiff front end. Since most of the people buying them
    will be driving them on all sorts of random terrain and a lot of
    streets and parking lots, this makes sense.

    However, for the track racers out there, know that with a few changes
    you can have it dialed on the track. The entire chassis package is an
    awesome machine and is very capable of being fast. There's a ton of
    steering and corner speed in this truck with the right adjustments.
    Here's a few initial changes I'd recommend before throwing it down on
    the track for the first time. I'll post the rest of the setup
    afterward.


    Front end:
    - outer steering link: front hole (plastic knuckles)
    - shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler fronts work well
    - camber link: outer/ lower & inner/ upper
    - diff: 10K to 15K

    Rear end:
    - sway bar: black
    - diff: 5K to 7K

    - install center diff (50K to 100K)

    ----------------


    Just doing these things alone will make the truck rotate nicely and
    provide controllable on-power steering exiting corners.

    I'll post my complete setup below.

    Be warned it may be long, but worth the read. I'll explain why on some
    of it. This truck is SICK when setup


    SLASH 4x4 setup: FRONT END

    - Toe: 1.5 (out), set at ride height with a slight amount of bump
    steer (bumpout). It seems to like a little bit of bumpsteer.
    - Static Camber: -2.0, set at ride height and measure each wheel
    independently with the wheel pointing straight forward.
    - Camber Link: inner: #1 & outer: lower, This corrects the camber rise
    to maintain a levelk of negatice camber when fully extended. It makes
    the font end (steering & control) more consistent & predictable
    throughout the suspension range. Use the #2 position for even MORE
    steering.
    - Shock Position: Upper: mid Lower: #2
    - Shock Length: 95mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end out
    to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves
    steering and helps settle the front end during landings.
    - Shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler RED fronts. Should be the
    same as the newer white fronts on Rustler. These springs are softer
    than the stockers and feel pretty good. The Rustler springs are a
    linear rate and feel a bit smoother.
    - Shock oil/ pistons: 60wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F
    - Ride Height: Approx 27mm (shafts slightly below level), This will
    also be affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers
    and measured from surface to the skid just below the front of the
    inner hinge pin.
    - Sway Bar: Black (9mm in front of hollow ball)
    - Diff: 10K, mixing to get a 15K feel is also useable larger tracks
    with bite.
    - Bumpsteer: Flat: up

    Front end note: If using plastic steering knuckles, use the front hole
    for more steering. This will be the same as the Platinum with the
    aluminum accessory knuckles.

    The plastic knuckles are acually nice to have the second (rear)
    adjustment. This hole is good on large high bite tracks to keep turn
    in smooth and less aggressive.

    SLASH 4x4 setup: REAR END

    - Toe: 4.0 (blue carriers as marked), The 2.5's are good on small
    tight tracks and/ or high bite smooth tracks.
    - Static Camber: -3.0, set at ride height.
    - Camber Link: inner: #3 & outer: fixed on blue carriers and #3 on Pro-
    Line rear carriers. Use the #5 hole on the inner on small high bite
    tracks. It improves chassis rotation.
    - Hinge Pin Location: Lower, Try the upper location on really rough
    tracks. Reset ride height when changing this adjustment.
    - Shock Position: Upper: mid Lower: #3
    - Shock Length: 110mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end
    out to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves
    steering and helps the chassis settle during landings. Very handy on
    those tracks that don't provide adequate landing jumps.
    - Shocks Springs: T-Maxx White Progressives. These springs offer a
    firmer feel and are longer and require less preload, which allows them
    to work within a happy range.
    - Shock oil/ pistons: 55wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F
    - Ride Height: Approx 30mm (shafts slightly above level), This will
    also be affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers
    and measured from surface to the bott the skid just below the rear of
    the inner hinge pin. Lower this setting to level with the front on
    high speed smooth tracks.
    - Sway Bar: Black (flush with hollow ball), switch to silver bar on
    dusty loose tracks.
    - Diff: 7K, Try 5K on really tight tracks

    SLASH 4x4 setup: The REST

    Wheels: Pro-Line SC One Piece (Slash 2wd rear offset) all the way
    arond
    Inserts: Pro-Line SC Blue
    Tires: Pro-Line SC Calibers, Bowties & Switches, Calibers have been
    good on most everything and consistent between bite and loose. Bowties
    favor loose and offer better forward bite vs. site bite. Good for
    chassis rotation and acceleration. The Switches are good on really
    hite tracks and abrasive surfaces. M3 is good in colder weather and
    also in dusty situations. M2 works well in warmer temps and on
    abrasive cleam surfaces.

    Motor: TRX Velineon (with TRX heatsink #1522)
    Battery: Max Amps 2S 8000
    Battery Location: rear
    ESC: TRX Velineon VXL-3s (with cooling fan)

    Gearing: Pinion: 14t/ Spur: 54t, use 13t pinion on tight tracks and
    15t on larger tracks. Larger pinions also add improves control of the
    truck in the air. Something to think about on jumps that buck the rear
    or high speed jumps that need a little extra to keep the front level.
    Center Diff: 100K, Try lighter mixes of 50K and 100K to get softer
    acceleration and better turn in.

    TX: Spektrum DX3R
    RX: Spektrum SR 3100
    Servo: Ace 1015
    Body: Pro-Line SC Hardcore

    Weight: My scale is broke, so with the battery, servo, heatsink, fan,
    wheels/ tires and such added into the mix, then that is what is
    weighs... LOL!!!

    I'll get it on a scale soon. I'm also going to be playing with weight
    placement and bias in the coming weeks. Keep in mind that lighter
    weight (smaller capacity) packs and/ or changes to the motor system
    and things like that will affect ride height and spring rate needs.




    Ok I have a question. I want some new shock springs for my traxxas slash 4x4 it weighs about 6.5 lb and the shocks are connected to the second highest spot on the suspension arm. I want some shocks that are good for jumps and don't let me chassis smack the ground every time. And some with a quick recoil any suggestions?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •