Originally Posted by kzabak
Thanks for the comments! I'm glad it's working for you. The smaller diameter springs actually have the same value. They're just smaller diameter and require smaller retainers as you've found out. The size of the retainer really doesn't matter as long as it fits the springs. I personally prefer the larger diameter, because it keeps the springs from rubbing the shock bodies and it just looks better with a larger spring. IMO
as far as replacements for the larger springs, just get a parts tree from a plastic Ultra shock parts tree. should be searchable on the buytraxxas.com site
sry to ask again, but it seems i posed the question in a confusing way..
my first problem is that i lost the retainer from the rear shock and need to know the part number...
i just know that the ones that where included in the box have a larger diameter and therefore i dont wanna use them with the shocks...
but it isnt clear to me which part number that retainer is...
i just need to ride again, replacing the whole shocks comes at an other point^^
thx anyway for clarification on the springs
2/3s of my bash video are finished...maybe ill finish it today
erevo mmm-need mip pins...
1 other thing i realized driving the setup:
using the front holes on the steering hubs makes the wheel hit the hubs or sth else, so i had to adjust the dual ratio on my radio to prevent that
did you also have that problem?
i guess dish wheels are the way to go..
and here you go-1st vid of the 1st rideouts
Last edited by kzabak; 07-27-2010 at 01:25 PM.
erevo mmm-need mip pins...
im stupid loose off power. great for making u turns. not so good on fast sweepers. i think i have steves set up on it( havnt used it in a while).i know i have less droop in the rear cause the mip axles bind at max droop.
looking for steves second set up. where or where is it lol
Last edited by auto2; 08-11-2010 at 09:29 AM.
Page 6 of this thread
JESUS says: "Fix it B4 it Breaks!"
Hi all. I am new to this forum and rc racing so when I found this thread it was awesome. Thanks for all the great info.
I do have one question. I was trying to change the rear dif oil from the grease it came with stock. But when I pulled it apart I noticed that the dif is not sealed. So how do I add the dif oil without it all coming out all over the place when I run it?
Any thoughts and guidance would be great.
First of all...make sure you are talking about the DIFF itself and not the HOUSING. The DIFF should have blue rubber o-rings at either end that seal the diff case. You shouldn't be using really viscous oils in your diffs. I used to use 7k weight front and 5k weight rear diff oil in mine (120k in the center diff) and I only filled it to the point that the fluid JUST covered the gears inside.
IF you don't have the blue rubber o-rings then your diffs didn't get built correctly. It happens...just order a couple of diff rebuild kits from your LHS or buy them online. BEWARE though...aside from the o-rings the rebuild kits come with typically more parts than you will have removed (extra washer/spacers)...if you install them all...your diff will feel 'notchy' or may lock up completely. Make sure it moves smoothly after you are done.
I hope that answers your question and puts you on the right path. By the way...this isn't really the right thread for this. Don't be surprised if you and I get railed for talking off-topic! Welcome to the forums! lol
Last edited by pvalenti; 08-22-2010 at 12:19 AM.
Slash 4X4 #25 (Mark Jenkins)
Thanks Paul for the quick response and info. And I apologize to all if I am side tracking the thread.
Sorry for the question, but can someone post the link to Slayden's most recent setups? Thanks!
Also, maybe one using Proline shocks?Originally Posted by rich panganiban
Never mind, found it.
Originally Posted by Slaydaddy
What about dust,I have a mini slash and live out west where it's always above a 100 and totally fine dust everywhere.I made a an elec tape cocoon around my engine cause I fried my first one in a few runs from dust.Does anyone do anything different to keep out dust.It's a total problem here.you can't avoid driving in dust.it's on the sides of all roads
When you refer to a sway bar color on the front or rear, what about the other end of the truck? Is it assume that it is box stock or disconnected, or what color. Also what is your opinion of when do you use the front bar alone, or the rear bar alone, or both bars, or no sway bars....thanks much the GMOOriginally Posted by aggie rustler
what is the part number for the t-max white springs that is refered to for the rear in this setup......GMOOriginally Posted by aggie rustler
Steve "Slaydaddy" Can you give me your advice. I will be as detailed as possible to give you the tracksde perspective. I race at WCRC and OCRC. Hard packed clay type with some residual dust on the track. I am looking for on power steering without spinning around too much (mainly at the end of the straight, which is a left turn sweeper on one track and a right u-turn-ish on the other and an "s" turn before the first initial double) It launches, flies, and lands great with what I am using for shocks and springs. (the new proline dual spring system) I have black sway bars on both ends. Straight a way acceleration is "ok" but squirly from time to time if I don't line up perfectly on the straight. I am running 40wt in all shocks, 5K rear dif, 10K front diff, 100K center dif. Using Double dee's or Suburbs. Mainly your set-up on all the link and steering positions. I did try 4 degrese neg camber on the rear and neg 2 on the front last night and it seemed to get a tiny bit better. What would going down to a 50K center diff do? I'm sure its partially my driving and throttle control, and lack of track time, but I'm getting better and I have more time now than lately for practice. Thanks for your input.
Picked up my Slash a week ago and went to the track. I'm new to the whole go fast thing I have been in to crawlers for a while and thought it was time for something new and after setting my truck up to his specs all I can say is wow what a difference it makes over stock. Still changing little things to my liking but a great place to start for beginners
Originally Posted by Green Machine!
What springs/oil/holes are you using with your prolines?
I was trying differant combos at OCRC on Monday. I have to look again to see what I ended up with. But the jumping was dialed and smooth and level when I was finished. 40wt oil all the way around (all indoor tracks around here so no need for a real heavy oil) going back to the orig. pistons that came with the shocks. I did go a little heavier on all the springs to reduce my preload adjustments. (about 4.5 mil spacing) I'll look at the springs and post those asap. I also used all the outer holes on the front mounting. The rear is the outer hole on the bottom and the middle on the upper tower. Most important mod was washers on ALL the screws because no matter what, they all poped off the stock proline pivot balls.Originally Posted by Dresven
Originally Posted by Green Machine!
Thanks! That helps out a lot.
ok, Im going to wcrc tomorrow so I looked at the springs.Originally Posted by Dresven
small spring: red
large spring: yellow
small spring: yellow
large spring: green
I am running slightly below level axels on front ride height and level axles in the rear. I spun out the front shock ends about an extra mil to gain some down travel.
Is anybody else having problems with the truck hooking very quickly around the front end? I need to lose some of the snappy steering response or gain rear grip either one. Its just really twitchy and seems to drive around the front end.
The car tends to oversteer especially with race tires.
If you have the rtr version, move the steering link on the steering knuckles to the furthest hole, this will reduce steering.
You can also reduce steering through your dual rate/epa settings on your transmitter.
Depending on how much camber you have on the rear, normally reducing camber a bit by a degree or half might increase rear grip.
Heavier rear diff oil (10K) will also help reduce oversteer.
I have the RTR version and am running a DX3R radio, Its not a radio correctable issue though. I will try that steering link position and reset camber. I am also going to 0 toe out on the front as I believe I have 2 degrees toe out currently. After some laps i am gonna switch to -1 front camber as well. Currently running -2.
How much rear toe in is on the RTR?
What parts are needed to increase rear toe in?
I usually run 4 toe in on the rear of my 1/8 racers
the easiest way and always the first step to reduce steering is reduce the dual rate/epa setting and your radio should have it as even the RTR radio has it...it's oversteering because the servo is changing direction too fast especially prevalent in loose dirt surface...and/or in larger tracks, you tend to 'over steer' because the speed is faster...Originally Posted by parts eeter
the RTR has -1 toe-in in the rear, you can get the aluminium rears which will give you -4 but if you are already having oversteer issues, why you want more rear toe-in? More toe-in would just make it even more over-steery...
Facebook Fan Page www.moochie888.com.au
SlayDaddy, I'm wondering with the release a while back of more progressive spring options for the Ultra Shocks/Big Bores if you got any new results for the new springs?
JESUS says: "Fix it B4 it Breaks!"
Did Slaydaddy leave Traxxas?? Someone told me that he is with VP race fuels
SLASH PE 4x4,LOSI 8E 2.0, LOSI 8TE 2.0
Hey Slaydaddy, or anyone else that wants to help, I need some shock setup help. I know the stock shock oil is 50W in the front and 40W in the rear. But it seems a little soft for me. So I need some advice on to which weight I should use. Secondly, which damping dish thingy should I use, the 2 holed one or the 1 holed one? And lastly, since I bash more than I race what should I do to help my truck from bottoming out so easily. I'd really appreciate the help.
Trust me...I'm a Doctor
Yes he did...He is now Mike Battaile's full time mechanic and pit man...and also he is in charge of marketing and distribution(I maybe wrong on the distribution part). He may race from time to time on a club level but pretty much he has for lack of a better term "RETIRED" from racing.Originally Posted by jetcam2
I am an R/C ADDICT!!
I found this, and think it would help some of the people in here to understand exactly how different changes will affect the performance of their vehicle. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/archiv.../t-127029.html
Ive scanned this thread, but cant seem to find a good setup for winter driving.
Anyone who have one? loose snow comebined with packed snow and hard ice. the track is about 150 - 200 meters long, the jumps are about 60 cm high with jumping lenght of about 2 - 4 meters.
Ive tried a few of the setups in here, but i either get understeer on breaking or oversteer on throttle.
Could the minus degrees have a thing or two too do with the setup? The coldest we drive in is -15`Cellsius.
open for any suggestions, and please excuse my bad english and spelling.
1:10 Traxxas Slash 4x4
I have lost my master for Slash 4X4 Blank set up sheet, can someone send me in the right direction.
click on pit pass at the top of this page. or look up your model and go to downloads.
Last edited by cjohns58; 12-23-2010 at 07:22 AM.
What setup would work well at this track? This is my local track. I already have all of the tekno stuff. And I am thinking about the proline shocks. What else should I change. ?? Thanks
So, did we ever get a setup for the Pro-Line shocks? I have a set on the way, and was wondering what springs and fluids to use for them.
Does anyone know if Steve Slayden's setup works on clay ovals and does someone have something else or better suggestions?
Guys, I am not sure if Steve Slayden still works for Traxxas. He has not posted in this thread for almost 6 months and I have seen him associated with a fuel vendor along with Mike Battaile. We can continue the race set-up discussion, but I do not expect Slaydaddy to respond to any direct questions.
It is not a TOY!
Would be nice if he said good bye then lol
Awesome, I wanna try this set up!
Slaydaddy, What size shock preload spaces are you running?