round, that's cool. as long as you're understanding what's causing it. Jumps get blown out all the time. You gotta pick the best lines the jump offers. It's cool your track fixed the jump, but at most races (especially nitro) jumps like that don't get fixed. It's still a good idea to learn how to approach blownout jumps.
BT EMT, I've always believed that the larger canned motors were better suited for the 4x4 SC trucks due to their heavier weight. Obviously, there will be specific conditions where the smaller motors may handle better, but overall I like the larger motors. They never struggle.
Wrapping up a couple articles right now for the Slash 4x4. Way too much info for one article. For starters there will be an RTR or basic setup guide for best results with minimal changes. Basically, a good setup for people just buying teh truck that wants it more suited for the track without changing a bunch of stuff. Then, there will be a more elaborate setup guide that wil focus on more technical setup stuff along with accessories good for racing and so on. Then, maybe in the future I can follow up with specific setups for different motor systems.
Yep, right now we have two jumps where the middle is blown out. You can clear it in the middle but only if you have enough of a running start. Best line is to the right or left. I changed something else to help with temps and power. I switched to a Neu 1509 1y 3600kv motor. Have you tried it yet? It is awesome to say the least! Super powerful, light, and gobs of torque and top end.
Thanks for the tips, everyone at the track wants to know my secrets. Even the hypers-Jammins can't hang.
round, shoot me a pm on that motor. Thanks!
PM sent sir. I will post some pics later of my setup.
Hi, need you guys to explane something to a neebie....
Am I correct when I assume that 5k wt diff oil is thicker than 7k wt?
And that 5k will give more of a "locked" differential than with 7k wt?
Just looking at setup sheet that Slayden has and trying to figure out why he does like he do.
The center diff, why use thinner or thicker oil? Thicker oil will give more power to the front wheels?? If thats correct, when don't you need power at the front wheels??
No the higher the number, the thicker, heavier the oil is.
ah, the wrong way then...thanks
Ah I remebered wrong as well, I thought he had 5k in front, but he got 7k in front. So I thought correct but wrong...
So when Slayden says 7k in front, he wants tracktion on both front wheels.
Then 5k in the back to get a better steering?
And 10k in the center to transfer enough power between front and rear?
You got the front/rear right.
For the center, 50-75k is recommended.
Lighter oil in the center will transfer more power to the front, will make the car easier to drive on power but could cause more understeer. The car may have less acceleration as well.
Heavier oil in the center will retain more power to the rear, less unloading on the front. This will help the car accelerate better, provide more steering. This could also make the car more difficult to drive and oversteer, depending on how much rear traction you have and your driving style.
I'm so going to fubar this up on the tracks...
Pics of the NEU
Gadgeteer is right. I've been testing even thinner fluids in the center diff with good results.
Try 30K center diff with 10K front and rear. This has given a pretty solid feel. Lighten the rear a little on smaller tracks.
This setup is worth trying. see what you think.
I noticed you normally recommend thicker shock oils for hotter weather, do you recommend the same with the diff oils? or are the diff oils being a lot thicker to begin with and is a little more shielded from outside temperature so is less affected?
The temperature where I run gets to about 95F, last time I ran, the rear shocks on my 4x4 got to about 108F after a 9 min run ( I have 700cst on both F/R shocks)
Last edited by Gadgeteer; 05-28-2010 at 08:25 AM.
why cant I find you on youtube ?
I wanna see a race that your in.
slash 4x4 VXL, Novak HV4.5, MMP
whats the main reason for loosing teeth on the spur gear?
Pinion to close or just heavy stops and starts or??
I'm talking about single teeth.
13T pinion / 54T spur. Org esc and motor, but with 3S LiPo.
jack rabbit starts and stops will do it. My buddy Panic Rev did it by slamming the brakes on at a full sprint. I did it by not paying attention to the pinion being loose. Gear mesh certainly plays a part as well. The spur is plastic...they WILL strip. 3S is pretty hard on ALL the parts of the truck...even though Traxxas CLAIMS it can take 3S...I wouldn't do it on the stock motor/esc personally. But people DO.
Slash 4X4 #25 (Mark Jenkins)
Slaydaddy, your rough loose track set up works like a champ with my new trenchers.Thanks.
WOW, I just read this entire thread and the info is great. Thank you Slaydaddy for all your input. And to all the rest of you for asking the questions. Now I can't wait to get home (6 more days) and open my new PE Slash which got delivered 2 days ago. Going to be tuned before it even turns a wheel.
Armor11 . You should take for a spin first then do the up-grades and dail it in .Then see will see and feel the difference of all that work you going to do. Just my thought !
I cant stop playing with it !!!
Thank you Armor11 so I can race my Slash when ever and were ever I want !
Good point! I guess a person should really see what the starting point is.Originally Posted by Brian Detroit
i have the setup on my truck, but iv tweaked a few things and the results were awesome!! i went to 40 all around, and moved the shocks all out 1 position on the bottom, set my camber to -2 all around (i didn have the camber set before, so all my wheels pointed differently)
i went from having a very loose rear end for my qualifiers to a very tight, awesome handling truck for my main! i was actually gonna sell the truck, but now , i cant wait to race it next weekend at the electric only race at the local track!!!
im goin big, then goin home
I bought the 4x4 and am now running on this new track in NW Indiana. Its clay, 1/8 scale buggy/truggy and well... big big jumps. Im running 3s and have almost all Steves setup. Rest of the parts are on the way. Im thinking I need to put in thicker shock oil for these jumps. The track is smooth except for the airtime, and there are LOTS of these big ramps. Im new to all this, as you can tell, and looking for advice. I have no problem spending just dont like wasting money. Already broke MIP's, Jato shafts front and rear, and Ive loosened the slipper... a lot. Teknos look promising but theyre breaking a little now too. I know I have a lot to learn so Im here asking for help. Thank you in advance.
We ran 3 8 minute qualifiers and an 8 min main last wednesday night in about 90degree heat and the motor temped @160 geared 15/54 and used 2900mah. Pretty impressive, I am loving this setup. Oh yeah, it won 1st place too.Originally Posted by round
Originally Posted by round
I second that. My Neu ran 150*F geared 16/54 and took 3rd.
Slaydaddy- If your June 26 and 27th weekend is open, some cajun boys would love to race with you down on that bayou! Action Hobbies is hosting their 6th annual Cajun Classic weekend race in a brand new facility. I know this would be a little low on the radar, but it will have a huge turn out and lots of entries. Would love to have you there!
Emaxx- truggy/CD conversion...
i am recent to slash 4x4 by for but i have already raced here in portugal other short trucks 4x4..
how do you solve the main shaft problem of the debris and rocks that get stock in there?
have you done something special advise by traxxas?
i lost already a main final because that, and on another race i lost i half final because motor mount bearing failure also....
i really like my slash but loosing races because this things and not by bad setups it sucks.....
Have you tried that motor with the stock vxl esc?
Do you think you can have similar performance if ran with the stock esc?
Originally Posted by Gadgeteer
VXL esc doesn't seem to like 4-pole motors. I've tried a couple setups on my old VXL and none worked out too well. I think the RPM limit of the ESC is coming into play. Since the Neu's are 4 pole motors, they read twice as fast as a 2 pole, like the VXL motor. For instance, if the Neu motor is turning 30K rpms, the ESC will read that it is running 60k rpms.
You'll need to get a MMP or a MMM to be safe.
Emaxx- truggy/CD conversion...
Hi cobalt, glad to see you again. Don't sell the truck!!!Originally Posted by cobaltracer1986
PLEASE do not PM me and immediately go offline :p
I am Round and I approve this messageOriginally Posted by nitrostarter
Dude your setup is insane! I raced in Watson LA (Denham Springs) yesterday and the truck couldn't have worked any better. I finished my first heat in second behind an Ofna Hyper. I was geared 15/54. I geared down to 15/52 and that was just what I needed. Finished 1st in the second heat. In the main I got the jump off the line and held a 10 second lead for 6 minutes until I landed and snapped a rear axle carrier. That obviously put me out of the money but I will be ready for the big money race on the 26 and 27th that nitrostarter mentioned. It would be pretty cool if you could make it down here.
round, changing your gearing from 15/54 to 15/52 is not gearing down. thats gearing up.Originally Posted by round
Actually, 15/54 is a 3.6 pinion/spur ratio. 15/52 is a 3.4667 ration. I consider that gearing down...
Emaxx- truggy/CD conversion...
3.6:1 is lower than 3.4667:1
3.6 would be geared DOWN FROM 3.4667
3.4667 would be geared UP FROM 3.6
in real world applications a 4x4 that is geared 100:1 final drive ratio is geared much lower and goes MUCH slower ( geared down ) in comparison to a 4x4 that is only geared 30:1
I also got the 1409/1Y NEU and I came in 2nd,3rd,2nd in 5min qualifiers and took 3rd in the main I shouldve had 2nd but I'm having trouble making the big jump every time. I'm geared at 17/52 and desperately wanted to gear down to 16/54 but the hobby shop at the track didn't have it. I'm looking forward to for next race since I'll have more gearing options. I also reached 170 after the 10min main which isn't too bad but not in my desire neither. All in all the MMP/1409 1Y setup simply is the sweet spot! Another part of my setup is the 2.0 shocks and 5/10/3 f/c/r diff oil, front shocks 40w/red springs and for the rear shocks 25w/silver springs but I'm going up to greens in the rear to try and eliminate the truck from flipping over forward after landing the big jump. And the rest of my setup is on page 6 of course with great appreciation to Steve, Thanx!
Last edited by KingdomRacer; 06-15-2010 at 02:28 AM.
JESUS says: "Fix it B4 it Breaks!"
We are running the 1509 1/y not the 1409 and can hit EVERYTHING the 8th scales can. Buggies and Truggies! And I do race 8th scale elec truggy as well. You should have heard the announcer last week when my slash was clearing the two monster doubles in the back straight and I mean hitting the down ramp, not landing short on the table top. Man I can't wait to run the Cajun Classic in two weeks!!!!
So basically you say gear down to refer to more bottom end and gear up to refer to more top end? I always get it mixed up.Originally Posted by Stokjeep
I'm under the impression from Castle that there is not a difference between the 1400 or the 1500 motors except can size, that's why I went wih the 14 instead of the 15. So according to Castle the 1409/1Y and 1509/1Y are the same motor, and this also applies to the rest of the 1400 series. This option helps keep the weight down and still allows for much more gearing options because of the 1400 series 36mm size vs the 1500. And yes I'm hitting all the jumps my 2.0 can hit too (when I can land them) LOL.
Last edited by KingdomRacer; 06-16-2010 at 12:10 PM.
JESUS says: "Fix it B4 it Breaks!"
ATTN: Slaydaddy or any Traxxas employee with an answer. I was running the stock RTR rear axle carriers(p#1952) and one broke so I decided to order the aluminum p#1952x expecting them to be the same but made from aluminum. I got them in today directly from Traxxas and they are labled 1.5 degree and marked r and l. What will the toe in be when mounted correctly and when mounted backwards. I loved how my truck handled with the stock rtr carriers and I don't want to change that.
I guess if my toe in is going to change them my only option for strength will be the RPM carriers.
I am guessing my toe with the alum. will be 4degrees mounted correctly and 1degrees mounted backwards?
I am not a traxxas employee....
That is correct....
Installed as should be, 4 deg toe in, opposite, 1 deg toe in....
Originally Posted by round