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Thread: My new summit

  1. #1
    RC Champion GeneralPede01's Avatar
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    My new summit

    Well not new, but new to me. Picked up a summit over the weekend from a friend of mine. Guy who had it before him took very good care of it, paid 250$ for it. It's all stock, and came with pair of 5000mah nimh batteries and the traxxas dual charger, he also threw in the roof lights that he was going to install. Pretty neat rc I like it, pretty slow compared to what I'm used too, but I knew that when I bought it lol. Don't have any plans to go overkill on it like my previous builds, only things I plan on doing is mudslingers on dick cepek beadlocks, kershaw single dewalt conversion, and a set of good lipos. I'm choosing to do the dewalt because I'd like a little more power, but without going brushless as it would defeat the purpose of the summit I believe. If I wanted brushless then I would have just bought a revo instead.
    These are the wheels I want, with a set of mudslingers.


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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    Ill give you 3 months and Im betting your summit is totally transformed (new diffs, lid, lights, ).A Dual dewalt set up would run around $100. I would say get a solid brushless system (original mamba monster systems are selling for around $140). Much More power, MUCH longer run times (dual brushed motors mean 25% more power but 50% less run time.) . And with plastic dip its easy to waterproof. Then you can program it , set punch control, set drag brake (think Land Rover hill decent) , etc, etc.

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    RC Champion GeneralPede01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noir 522 View Post
    Ill give you 3 months and Im betting your summit is totally transformed (new diffs, lid, lights, ).A Dual dewalt set up would run around $100. I would say get a solid brushless system (original mamba monster systems are selling for around $140). Much More power, MUCH longer run times (dual brushed motors mean 25% more power but 50% less run time.) . And with plastic dip its easy to waterproof. Then you can program it , set punch control, set drag brake (think Land Rover hill decent) , etc, etc.

    Welcome to the summit club.
    Thanks for the welcome, I plan on keeping it brushed. The single dewalt conversion is 60$, and should me more than enough torque to pull the mudslingers. Don't want to go brushless, but if I ever did I would want a sensored setup so I don't lose my slow speed abilities like you get with the brushed setup. For now I'm just gonna leave it alone and enjoy it for awhile, I'll upgrade it as it breaks .


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    What light setup is that on the roof? Looks nice!

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    RC Champion GeneralPede01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rattmobbins View Post
    What light setup is that on the roof? Looks nice!
    It's a traxxas part, it bolts right up and replaces the fake dummy lights. TRA5684


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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeneralPede01 View Post
    Thanks for the welcome, I plan on keeping it brushed. The single dewalt conversion is 60$, and should me more than enough torque to pull the mudslingers. Don't want to go brushless, but if I ever did I would want a sensored setup so I don't lose my slow speed abilities like you get with the brushed setup. For now I'm just gonna leave it alone and enjoy it for awhile, I'll upgrade it as it breaks .





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    Ok, single DeWalt, I dont know where I saw "Dual". Good choice.

    I still see aluminum diffs in your future. (smile)
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    RC Champion GeneralPede01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noir 522 View Post
    Ok, single DeWalt, I dont know where I saw "Dual". Good choice.

    I still see aluminum diffs in your future. (smile)
    Well guess you were right lol. After thinking about it for the past couple days I've settle on brushless. When I do a motor swap I'm just gonna go ahead and install a MMX/2200. I will only run it on 4s and have it geared kinda low to help with any slow speed cogging in low gear. With good throttle control and 4s I'm hoping I can get away with the stock diff for a little while, but I'll most likely end up doing the lem diff upgrade eventually.


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    Quote Originally Posted by GeneralPede01 View Post
    It's a traxxas part, it bolts right up and replaces the fake dummy lights. TRA5684


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    Killer, thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by rattmobbins View Post
    Killer, thanks!
    No problem.


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    I left mine stock gearing when i went brushless and the cogging is not horrible. And of 4s in hight gear is not retarded fast but its still quick. Lem diffs are almost a must if your gonna be bashing though. I love mine.
    If it still moves, it aint broke enough!

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    Quote Originally Posted by SummitBasher90 View Post
    I left mine stock gearing when i went brushless and the cogging is not horrible. And of 4s in hight gear is not retarded fast but its still quick. Lem diffs are almost a must if your gonna be bashing though. I love mine.
    Hopefully mine will survive for a little while before upgrading to lem. I won't be acting too crazy with it( have my slash 4x4 if I want to go crazy). Just a mild slow basher with some occasional mudding .


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    I've never understood the need to go brushless. I used to be like you were in your 1st post. Why? ARen't you taking away from what the Summit is suppose to excel at?
    I was gonna take my mm2/2200 out cause I didn't like the way it crawled so instead of changing gears & other things I just bought another Summit, all stock & new lookin'.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rtmike View Post
    I've never understood the need to go brushless. I used to be like you were in your 1st post. Why? ARen't you taking away from what the Summit is suppose to excel at?
    I was gonna take my mm2/2200 out cause I didn't like the way it crawled so instead of changing gears & other things I just bought another Summit, all stock & new lookin'.
    Well from all the threads I've read they say it's still crawls decent in low gear if your geared low. It'll mostly be used for goofing off in the yard with some occasional water and mud adventures. May end up using a sensored setup and make it waterproof so I can still have good crawling abilities as well as some decent speed if I desire. Still debating on things, right now I'm enjoying it like it is .


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    RC Qualifier rtmike's Avatar
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    Forgot to mention, that was a smokin' deal on your Summit!

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    Quote Originally Posted by rtmike View Post
    Forgot to mention, that was a smokin' deal on your Summit!
    That's why I jumped on it, if I didn't get the charger I could have for the summit with batteries for 200$. I have been wanting one for awhile and when he told me that price I was like SOLD!!! Lol. Have some friends down visiting and have been playing with it having a blast.


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    Alright, so the new motor system is underway. I was able to acquire a MMX brand new for free. There's a long story to that, but short version is I'm good friends with my lhs and he got broken into the other day. I was able to help him find who done it and get everything back. So for helping him he gave me the MMX he had, because he knew that was the esc I was going to be buying soon. So now that I have the esc I finally decided which motor I'm going with and will be ordering it this week. Finally settled on a tekin 2000kv sensored motor. I will be running sensored that way it'll still have crawling abilities and much better speed than the brushed setup. So summit will be getting a nice upgrade this week with new motor system along with a set of lipos. That's all I have planned for it for now. The wheels and tires I want are pretty expensive so I'm in no hurry for those considering the wheels and tires are over 300$ for the set. So the canyons will do just fine for now. The wheels and tires I plan on getting are rc4wd huntsman spider aluminum beadlocks with a set of rc4wd rok lox.


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    Motor came in this morning. Got everything installed, still have to update my MMX to the newest software, but it is functional as of right now. Started out with a 17t pinion and on 4s this motor system is just awesome. I haven't put a gps on it but I'd say it's in the high 20s maybe low 30s in high gear. Much more power than the stock titan and still crawls very well. No cogging period, I can crawl the same with this brushless motor as I could with the brushed motor. Only have about 10min playtime on it so far, but I'm very satisfied with this setup. Would defiently recommend the sensored system if your looking for more power without giving up crawling abilities.


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    RC Champion MikeMcE's Avatar
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    I have a couple of sensored Tekin's , and I love them for that torque crawling


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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeMcE View Post
    I have a couple of sensored Tekin's , and I love them for that torque crawling


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    This is my first sensored setup, pretty impressed with it. Crawls just the same as the Titan as far as smoothness, only with way more power lol.


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    I was shocked at how smooth my 3000 4x4HD is. Then I mash it and it really rips, I have it in my yeti with a two speed trans and it is crazy , am thinking of another for my slash


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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeMcE View Post
    I was shocked at how smooth my 3000 4x4HD is. Then I mash it and it really rips, I have it in my yeti with a two speed trans and it is crazy , am thinking of another for my slash


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    Do you waterproof your sensored motors? I hear people use liquid tape of plastic dip to help make the sensored more water resistant.


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    I don't run in water


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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeMcE View Post
    I don't run in water


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    Neither do I usually, but I have be known to crash my slash into the pond behind my house more than once lol.


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    I keep mine out of the back yard..... I live on a lake.
    I like rockcrawling during our summer/rain season, then when things get dry for 6 months I bash with my slash4x4, slash,proMT. I have a dual purpose yeti,a R1 bouncer,and a MOA crawler
    I'm running sensored tekin in both the yeti(3000) and the R1 (17.5t) so they stay dry.
    If you go to the rccrawler forum electronic section you will find how to and where to with what stuff..... great resource
    You do need conformal liquid for the board


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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeMcE View Post
    I keep mine out of the back yard..... I live on a lake.
    I like rockcrawling during our summer/rain season, then when things get dry for 6 months I bash with my slash4x4, slash,proMT. I have a dual purpose yeti,a R1 bouncer,and a MOA crawler
    I'm running sensored tekin in both the yeti(3000) and the R1 (17.5t) so they stay dry.
    If you go to the rccrawler forum electronic section you will find how to and where to with what stuff..... great resource
    You do need conformal liquid for the board


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    Thanks, I'll check out their website. What board are you referring too?


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    The sensor board inside the motor


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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeMcE View Post
    The sensor board inside the motor


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    Oh ok thanks for the tip man.


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    nice set up

    just the switch that need to be move to a safer place, IMO
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Dude View Post
    nice set up

    just the switch that need to be move to a safer place, IMO
    Thanks man, I agree I don't like the switch there, but the other mounting position has it mounted under the motor. I'll just leave it like it is and if it gets damaged I'll just remove it completely.


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    Put a 4s pack through it today, very pleased with the power output. Here's a couple videos. First one is 4s lipo with stock gearing.
    This video is just showing that it can still crawl just fine with a sensored brushless. I unplugged the sensor last night and tried to climb my wall and without sensor being plugged up it will cog, so sensored helps out greatly.


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    Get yourself one of those castle creations programming card and try different settings. You can set the punch control low for some serious crawling, set the drag brake for some controlled hill descents. But yea sensored is smooth.
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  32. #32
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    My new summit

    Quote Originally Posted by noir 522 View Post
    Get yourself one of those castle creations programming card and try different settings. You can set the punch control low for some serious crawling, set the drag brake for some controlled hill descents. But yea sensored is smooth.
    Better than the card is the plug in one,but you need a windows computer.Not a Mac

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGVR8&P=ML


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    Last edited by MikeMcE; 10-08-2016 at 05:24 PM.
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    My new summit

    The sensored motors have me hooked for slow speed drivability. If your doing serious crawling you can set your power levels for starting, add punch and drag brake. Then you can also adjust both throttle and brake curves..... much better than the card, and cheaper. I have both as I got them when I bought my Mamba ESCs, quite versatile if you figure it all out!


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  34. #34
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    My new summit

    Quote Originally Posted by noir 522 View Post
    Get yourself one of those castle creations programming card and try different settings. You can set the punch control low for some serious crawling, set the drag brake for some controlled hill descents. But yea sensored is smooth.
    Already have the card, I bought one of those last year when I installed the MMX/2650 in my pede. I setup the basic stuff, but I have to update my esc to the latest firmware, then I'll start messing with drag brake etc.
    Quote Originally Posted by MikeMcE View Post
    The sensored motors have me hooked for slow speed drivability. If your doing serious crawling you can set your power levels for starting, add punch and drag brake. Then you can also adjust both throttle and brake curves..... much better than the card, and cheaper. I have both as I got them when I bought my Mamba ESCs, quite versatile if you figure it all out!


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    I just setup the basic stuff for now, I have to update my esc to the latest firmware and then I'll start tinkering with settings. I have the programming card and I like it much better, because it allows me to change settings without a computer and if you plug it up to the computer is also can be used as the castle link for the advanced settings.


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    RC Champion GeneralPede01's Avatar
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    Had a fun day today I must say, really enjoying the new power plant. One of my steering servos went out and I ripped one of the back tires. Stole the spektrum servo out of my slash and used the one good 2075 to put back in the slash for now. Haven't decided what I want to do with servo situation, so the spektrum will have to do for now. Won a auction on eBay for a set of mudslingers on axial beadlocks for a great price that I couldn't pass up. I've read that these axial wheels will rub, but some people say they have no trouble with them. If they do rub I'll shave off some of the wheel on the inside, since that seems to be a remedy for the people who had running issues. Hooked my esc back up to castle link and tinkered with some settings and updated to the newest firmware along with doing the motor test for torque limiting. Never fooled with torque limiting on my other castle esc's so this will be my first time messing with that setting.


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  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeMcE View Post
    Better than the card is the plug in one,but you need a windows computer.Not a Mac

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGVR8&P=ML


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    The FieldLink has all of the programming capabilities of the CastleLink. You can connect either of these hardware pieces to a Windows PC. Other than the size, the smaller CastleLink device yields no advantage.
    Alt-248 on the number pad = °

  37. #37
    RC Champion MikeMcE's Avatar
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    Pleas explain how to adjust throttle and brake curves with the fieldlink.


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    My new summit

    No need to explain in depth. If you know how to connect your CastleLink to your PC, simply connect the FieldLink the same way. It has the same USB port as the CastleLink.
    Edit: another advantage to the CL: it's slightly cheaper than the FL.
    Alt-248 on the number pad = °

  39. #39
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    My new summit

    My point is you cannot adjust those curves or motor torque with the fieldlink. You must have the castlelink unless I missed something

    I have no cost in either as I got them included (coupon)with my MM2 and MMP


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  40. #40
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    Not as a standalone, no. Then again, you cannot adjust other parameters as a standalone. But AGAIN, connected to your Castle ESC and your Windows PC, the FieldLink programming card allows you to adjust every parameter, including the throttle and brake curves and torque limiting. If you cannot, it is not the fault of the FL card.
    How do I know? I just did it.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 10-09-2016 at 10:50 AM.
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