Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 52
  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    31

    Does Steve Slayden Have A Erbe Race Setup Anywhere

    Ive Been Looking And Cant Find His Erbe Race Setup Does He Even Have One Posted

  2. #2
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Hampton, VA, USA
    Posts
    2,021
    In race trim, the ERBE is similar weight to a Revo 3.3, and the setups are very simliar.
    -Harry | Racing and Painting
    1stGenPaint

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    748
    I submitted my setup article to Traxxas quite a while ago. I do not know why it has not been posted. Maybe try emailing Traxxas and request that it be posted as soon as possible.

    In the mean time, you can PM me with any questions. I will gladly help you out.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    748
    E Revo BL Track Setup: Base Setup

    • Camber: -2.5deg
    • Caster: 4 clips forward
    • Toe: 1.0deg OUT
    • Roll center: upper location
    • Sway bar: 5mm from top
    • Rockers: P2
    • Pushrod location: middle
    • Pistons: #2
    • Oil: 55wt (hot weather), 45wt (cold weather)
    • Springs: white

    Rear
    • Camber: -3.0deg
    • Toe: 2.5deg
    • Wheelbase: +19mm (max)
    • Roll center: upper location
    • Sway bar: Fixed (stock sway bar)
    • Rockers: P2
    • Pushrod location: middle
    • Pistons: #2
    • Oil: 55wt (hot weather), 45wt (cold weather)
    • Springs: Green

    • Gearing: 18/62
    • Diffs: 30K/500K/10K (front/center/rear)

    - Response Pro wheels and tires
    - Mamba Max Monster motor/ ESC
    - 4S Lipo, (Maxamps 2S 8000 packs in series)

    - ride height: front: shafts level / Rear: shafts just above level.

    and of course the typical steering mods for Revo.

  5. #5
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Wisconsin, Appleton
    Posts
    157
    slaydaddy:
    do you use sway bars on all types of track surfaces? or just certain one?
    win if you can, loose if you must!

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    748
    I've been known to pull them off on VERY rough tracks.

    If I take them off, I'll generally make sure that the rear upper suspension pin (roll center) location is in the LOWER position to get back some of the steering lost by removing the bars.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    downey, ca
    Posts
    518
    how do i adjust the camber on the revo? and what tools do you use to measure the camber and toe?

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    748
    roadrunner, 2.5 hex driver. Thread the upper and lower pivot balls all the way into the arm(s). Then back out the lower to adjust the camber. Only use the lowers to adjust camber. Makes it easier and helps keep the upper from backing out.

    I use an RPM camber gauge. They make one for monster trucks (it's taller).

    It's inexpensive and you can also use it for toe. You'll have to square your chassis up to the edge of a table with the back of the tires lined up with the edge of the table. Look down over the end of the truck you're adjusting and then lay the camber gauge down flat on the table with the bottom of it parallel with the edge of the table.

    It's best to set the gauge to your desired angle and then lock it down. Then adjust the wheel angle until it lines up with the gauge.

  9. #9
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Barcelona, Spain
    Posts
    93
    Hi, thanks for your information! but white/green springs is not a very soft combination? I think all of us that use it in the track have went up almost one step up both springs (orange/gold at least).

    And 18/62 looks little slower for medium track use, people usually recommend about 40mph setting, and I use 20/56 that works well to keep up or beat the nitros, less would be little slower in straights.

    And what dou you think about variable damping pistons?

    And silver or black sway bars? I found silver a little soft, in fast turns leads to understeering a bit (in front, referring to traxxas bars)

    Thanks!
    MMM Combo, SPC 8000/Intellect 5000, FUT 3PM FASST

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    748
    smash, it's a 'base' setup and generally good right off the bat. I actually use the whites and greens a lot and orange and gold when I need the extra preload on specific jumps.

    This is the trick with soft springs
    - Use your sway bar and rear roll center to tune in the responsiveness you need.
    - This allows the shock to be setup a little plusher to carry more speed over bumpy sections and settles nicely when landing out on the flat between jumps.
    - The Revo likes a higher-than-normal rear ride height too. Especially in the rough and to keep the rear from bucking on high-speed blown out jumps. Softer springs tend to like higher ride heights better than firm springs.
    - The softer springs also calm the steering. Especially on high-speed/ high-bite tracks.


    Just some reasons I favor softer springs. I 've raced with all of the different springs at one time or another. LOL



    I was running dual Maxamp 2S 7.4 8000's in series and ran on quite few different tracks with plenty of speed. I would gear up for larger tracks and more flight control. You only wanna gear to just a tad more than what you need. Anymore power than that is generally wasted.


    - The variable pistons are awesome! I use them on all my Revos.


    - I pretty much run the silver bars all the way around. I genrally use tighter settings on the silver bar and switch to a black bar when the track is fast and tacky.
    Last edited by Slaydaddy; 01-28-2010 at 03:09 AM.

  11. #11
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    28
    Steve - what kind of run time are you getting with the 8000s? I was thinking of running an erevo at Motorama this year and just curious if I'd have to do a battery change or not. Thank you and also thanks for posting your set-up - very helpful.

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    289
    Ideally, you want to jump so you land on the down slope of the jump, so you have minimal time in the air. Correct me if I'm wrong, but this is usually achieved with throttle control more than suspension.

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    downey, ca
    Posts
    518
    just to be clear, when you say toe 205 deg for example, you mean 2.5 degrees total right? not 2.5 per side.

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    748
    soccer, generally between 22 to 26 minutes. Depending on track and gearing. For any 30 min main or longer I definitely would have needed to make a battery swap. This is why I stuck with the Nitro Revo for the RC Pro Finals. I was not comfortable with a battery swap. I'm approx 2 sec faster a lap with my E-Revo, but battery swaps and waiting for the ESC to reboot is a time killer. We were thinking of ways to keep the ESC on during a battery swap, but I just decided to run the nitro since it had been running great for me all season and pit stops are only 5 to 7 sec on top on ave lap.

    In a 20 min main, it's another story. I can shred with my E-Revo.

    Look me up at Motorama and I'll help you out.

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    748
    Captain, Proper setup gives you more control. Thus enhancing your ability to use proper throttle control. Therefore not discrediting throttle control at all. Just makes it easier.

    Softer setups don't keep you from backsiding jumps. Downtravel and proper suspension setup allows the chassis to quickly correct and settle when things don't go as planned or when you over shoot the backside.

    My comment about tracks without adequate landing jumps is actually a credible point. I'm sure anyone here that has experience on a lot of different tracks can attest to many landing jumps either being misplaced and/ or too small for the situation.

    Some times the fastest line in a situation like this is to just overshoot and stay on throttle. It's nice to have a chassis setup to quickly settle ready to accelerate.

    At the end of the day, the rates I'm talking about are whites through golds. It's a very common spring rate window that works for most everyone. So there's really nothing out of the ordinary here.

  16. #16
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    downey, ca
    Posts
    518
    lol. my suspension set up is so different now compared to before. thanks slaydaddy. oh and the the toe in and toe out, it is 2.5 deg total right? not 2.5 per side?

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    748
    roadrunner, I measure toe of each corner independently. 2.5deg each wheel.

    I have seen people combine these angles when relating their setup. But I think it can get confusing. I was taught to measure toe vs the centerline of the chassis (an imaginary line that runs down the center of the chassis from front to rear). This line being '0' and adjusting toe to a specific angle in relation to this line. Because this is the line that the toe angle is working against.

    Although it's automatically assumed that a specifide total of 5deg toe would be 2.5 per side, it still generates an extra question of whether it's an individual corner or combined. I like to relate my setup parameters focused on each indiviual setting.

    I have been known to run toe angles as large as 4deg. This would definitely make someone wonder if I was combining the sides. If it you focus on each setting individually, it would eliminate that question.

    That was a good question and something that I should specify in the future. Thanks for asking.

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    downey, ca
    Posts
    518
    oh no, thank you! and i wish i would have asked this earlier but i forgot. compared to proline tires (and im talking about rubber material not tread) how do the traxxas response tires compare? are they soft like the m3 compound or are they more of a medium rubber like the m2 compound?

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    289
    Thanks for clearing that up for me! Suspension setups are confusing!

  20. #20
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,755
    If it can help, can anyone see this?
    It's been fun. See ya.

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    downey, ca
    Posts
    518
    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    If it can help, can anyone see this?
    picture doesn't show.

  22. #22
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,755
    hmmm... How about now? It should show a blank E-Revo set up sheet.

    Last edited by mistercrash; 01-31-2010 at 08:48 AM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  23. #23
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    719
    An alternative, here's the Traxxas Revo setup sheet, should apply fine to the e-revo. The bonus is that it's a PDF form so you can type directly into it.

    http://www.traxxas.com/PDF-Library/5...etup_Blank.pdf

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Winnipeg, Manitoba the Slurpee Capital of the World
    Posts
    805
    The one Mistercrash posted has been modified for the E Revo.

    If I use Internet Explorer I cant see it but if I use Firefox I can see it.
    if you dont break something go higher and faster

  25. #25
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,755
    Same thing for me Firefox: yes Explorer: not I don't know how to fix it so that it appears on both browsers.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  26. #26
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,755
    I think I found what the problem was. Last try I promise Print it on an 8.5X14 inch sheet.

    It's been fun. See ya.

  27. #27
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Winnipeg, Manitoba the Slurpee Capital of the World
    Posts
    805
    Yay it works. What fixed it?
    if you dont break something go higher and faster

  28. #28
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,755
    Converting from CMYK to RGB colors. Seems Internet Explorer doesn't do well with CMYK.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  29. #29
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    520
    I have a question for you Slayden on the steering mod. I have already removed the throws on the steering stop. But this isn't allowing for a more steering radius due to the pillar balls. Now my question is are you also doing more than just the steering stop mod for your ERBE? And if so do I remove plastic from the axle carriers to allow the ball to sit back further or do I remove material from the pillar ball itself? I ask this because part of me not already doing this is due to the capture rings I use on the axle carriers to hold the ball in already limits me to using any dust boots. Plus are the other parts of the steering area needed to be modded as shown on the steering mod in the Pit Pass or was that just needed for the REVO and not the ERBE?
    Also I'm wondering on your setup regarding the ESC.
    I'm looking forward to MOTORAMA also.
    Last edited by KingdomRacer; 01-31-2010 at 07:20 PM.
    JESUS says: "Fix it B4 it Breaks!"

  30. #30
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    748
    roadrunner, The S1 compound feels a little closer to M3. I would sauce if it helps bite.

  31. #31
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    748
    kingdom, The E-Revo and nitro Revo share the same suspension. It's the same entire front end - including the steering assembly. The steering mods will work the same on both vehicles.

    I perform all of the steering mod steps, but to explain the pivot ball thing:

    I remove material from the pivot balls where they touch the hub carrier. Removing approx 1mm to 1.5mm of material from the shaft is good for about another 5deg of wheel angle.

    Just chuck each pivot ball up in a 3/8 drill. Attach a thick cutoff wheel or grinding stone to your Dremel (rotary tool) and spin both up and grind away about a 4mm area just behind the ball on the shaft. Take about 1.5mm (no more than 2mm) of material off of the shaft. This will reduce the diameter of the shaft allowing the hub carrier to turn further. You'll reduce the strength of the pivot ball, but it'll be fine within the 2mm depth max I mentioned above.

    I don't use the rubber dust boots. I maintain my truck quite frequently and don't require them. They also limit turning radius because the rubber material between the pivot ball and the hub carrier. You don't need the boots for racing.

  32. #32
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    downey, ca
    Posts
    518
    well i just finished reassembling the front of my revo for the complete steering mod. it made a world of difference in steering angle compared to stock. the new single servo is also much faster than the stockers. and in regards to the shaving the pivot balls, is it necessary because im not sure i would feel confortable taking material off the pivot ball shafts.

    oh and i have a question regarding the center diff... on the nitro revos when you put the center diff, you can instal a rear brake kit and adjust the brake bias, etc. on the erbe, since we have electric brakes, how will the center diff affect braking???? im concerned that it will lock up the front wheels only or just the rears.

  33. #33
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    lost in Texas
    Posts
    762
    On the ERBE setup sheet( posted by MisterCrash, 7 posts up) what is the bump steer. I haven't messed with it yet. How do the adjustments affect the car? Thanks
    http://www.youtube.com/user/Revoman859

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    748
    roadrunner, The braking effect is quite nice with the center diff, actually. It starts with an initial front brake (or actually 100% all the way around) which shifts weight forward and slows the chassis to setup for the turn. Then as weight is shifted to the front, the braking power is shifted toward the rear, which helps rotate the chassis. It actually feels really nice. It helps turn-in. I never had an issue with the way my E-Revo entered corners with teh CD.

  35. #35
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    748
    conrad, bump steer is definitely the last resort you should look at to tune your chassis. I don't recommend using bump steer as a primary adjustment.

    Bump steer is the act of the wheels toeing in or out as the suspension is compressed. The problems is that as it may improve an aspect in one area, it generally causes a larger negative affect in another area. zero bump steer should be your goal. However, sometimes it can work. Lots of vehicles have a little bit. This really won't be noticed by most people.

    If you push down on the chassis and the wheels toe in then this is called bump-in

    If they toe out then it's called bump out.

    In the Front:
    Bump in can calm the steering when entering a corner but can make the chassis wander when on throttle.

    Bump out can make the front really aggressive when entering turns, depending on how drastic the toe change is. The chassis can also wander on throttle.

    Like I said. Use this as a last resort. Always look to another adjustment to get the result you're looking for.

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    downey, ca
    Posts
    518
    that is great to hear. i cant wait to try this beast out on the track now. and on the camber adjustment... do i set the camber at ride height? the reason i ask is because the truck sits lower if i push on it than if i just set it down.

  37. #37
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    748
    roadrunner, yes, set 'static' camber at ride height. There's also what is known as 'elevated' camber that is set with the chassis elevated and the arms dropped at full droop. Combine this with 'compressed' camber measured with chassis pressed to the surface and you get your camber rise rate.


    You really don't need to worry about the last two. Just set your roll center positions where you want them and then adjust static camber (at ride height). The rest will fall into place.

    Keep in mind that adjusting camber on a pivot ball suspension will also affect the toe setting. Always readjust (reset) toe after making your camber adjustments.

    Setting ride height on any chassis can be done a couple different ways. I pump the suspension for about 10 to 15 seconds to help warm up the shocks a little, and then give a few extra pumps and see where it settles and then measure the ride height. You can also drop the chassis level from approx a foot or so from the surface and let it settle then measure ride height. This has always given me the same results. Just make sure your pumps are quick and NOT holding down the chassis for any length of time so it can rebound naturally.


    On Revos I generally just eyeball the driveshafts in relation to the surface. It's most accurate if you measure the distance with a set a calipers. I do use calipers on smaller vehicles though like the Slash 2wd and 4wd models.

  38. #38
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    downey, ca
    Posts
    518
    hey slaydaddy, question the vdp kit. im about to tear about my shocks to instal them and i know the instructions say where the shims go, but do you have the shims on top or bottom? you have it set to the offroad setting right? im just making sure because i just did a quick search and people seem to be installing the shims on the onroad setting.
    thanks again.

  39. #39
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    downey, ca
    Posts
    518
    well i just finished all the suspension adjustments and the vdp kit installed. the suspension looks more like a truggy now. the only thing i ran into was with the white green spring, the truck sat way to low in the back and the only way i was able to fix the rear ride height was to move the push rod to the inner hole. is that ok or will it affect my handling?

  40. #40
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    748
    roadrunner, the valves (shims) should be on top for off road. make sure they are seated down into teh recessed area on the piston and do not tighten the nut. set it only to where the piston will rotate on teh shafts but there should be no end play.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •