I have a PE
First off, I love this truck!
it jumps very well. It bottoms out pretty easily though. Should I just add spacers to stiffen things up a bit?
Also I have the CD installed. It seems to push in the corners. I will go into the corner, fully turned and hit the track border. Doesn't seem to bite. What suggestions here? Do I need to adjust with different fluid?
I am running 18/52 gearing on 2S with a MMM ESC. It is FAST! I think I need to go back up to a 54t Spur to slow it a bit. It also seems to want to spin out! And possibly drop in pinion? Will this make is more controllable?
I wanted to start a discussion since I am new to racing and need help.
Last edited by milkman; 01-07-2010 at 09:41 PM.
What tires are you running? I only ask b'cuz the stock tires do not offer the bite your looking for in the corners. Have you changed the f/r diff fluids at all yet, as that would help with the understeer/oversteer in the corners as well. I also recommend using the available features of the MMM ESC especially the timing function as this one can/will help you tame the beast.
JESUS says: "Fix it B4 it Breaks!"
I'll post because it's on topic here, hope you don't mind milkman. On snow or a slick surface under 3s, when I try to go full throttle one of the diffs will slowly start to slip and it starts to stray to one side. Would it be better to put thicker oil in the front or the back? I can't tell which is slipping. Haven't put in the center diff since I don't race.
****** out Rustler
Slash 4x4 gettin' close
No prob fishey dude! the more the merrier! I am very new to racing and I am just shocked how technical it gets when NOT bashing.
Well I have a PE so I am still running the S1 compound tires..
I have not changed the diff fluid? What should I put in them and what brand?
I just need more traction in the corners. I have heard good things about the S1 tires?
The track is indoors but COLD. Very hard pack. The guy that owns the track said on actual race day he raises the temp to mid 60s and track gets more traction...alot more so he says. He also said he wets it down a bit every 45 min or so...
what about the CD? what adjustments could be made for that?
Will going up in spur help a little with control during acceleration?
What does the timing adjustments do with the MMM ESC?
I am so NOOB when it comes to all of this!
Last edited by milkman; 01-07-2010 at 09:55 PM.
First thing Id try is changing the rear toe in. Youll lose some stability on the straights, but gain steering! 4* is A LOT of toe in. I dont think I will make it more than one pack around the track Sat (when I finally get to drive my PE) until I flip the rear hub carriers to get 1* toe in. OR go to the plastics and have 2.5*
Also try to lay down your front shocks some, and MAYBE stand the rears up
IN general, the diffs are the last adjustments to be made on chassis setup.
Last edited by Ken448; 01-07-2010 at 09:55 PM.
Welcome to Traxxas.com Yes, EVERYONE here IS a Pro Racer.... [/sarcasm]
thanks keep em coming,
I copy and paste all of these suggestions in a file to refer back to!!
PM me your E Mail, Ill send you the associated tuning guide. Lots of good info in there!
Welcome to Traxxas.com Yes, EVERYONE here IS a Pro Racer.... [/sarcasm]
One thing that might need to be considered before you start adjusting your setup is your driving style Are you trying to keep the throttle on through the corner, getting off the throttle early enough, etc. If the surface is slick you will need to get off the throttle a bit sooner and let the weight shift forward, which will increase front bite. When you're on the throttle it will make the rear squat which is great for forward traction but you lose steering.
Try entering the corner a little slower and be smooth through the turn. It will probably feel like you're loosing time doing this, but if you get someone to accurately time your laps I bet you will find it's faster.
thanks for the tip, I appreciate it as I am really open to suggestions.
I did try that and it seems like no improvement. It just doesnt want to bite!
I am going to order some bow ties, move things around a little bit and keep taking suggestions.
Thanks so far for the help.
I just flipped the rear hub carriers, replaced an axle shaft LOL and will fuss with the shocks I think.
Last edited by milkman; 01-08-2010 at 09:34 AM.
Hows your ride height? The front needs to be level if not slightly lower in the front than the rear and the hole truck shouldn't be jacked up like its lifted.....Take off your front sway bar...and get some better tires....Bowtie or Caliber M3's.....Take your shocks apart and rebuild with 40wt Associated Shock oil.....that should do the trick!
Oh and get rid of the stock springs.....get some traxxas red springs or comparable
Last edited by 951prerun; 01-08-2010 at 09:38 AM.
Milkman, I had the same issue with my PE ( I posted earlier this week under 4x4 PE Handling) on a carpet off road...the thing slid all over the place. It was pushing in the corner on decelartion and loose in corners that I was accelerating in. I even had the throttle turned down to 60% and 50 something % to try and riegn the 'ole girl in. Ice skating is all I can say. I tried different sway bar positions as well as the heavy sway bar, differnt shock postions on the tower and A arm. I should say that I was basing my set up for this on what I know about the 2wd set up, and I've come to the conclusion that while I may know how to set up the 2wd slash, I'm a NOOB when it comes to the 4wd!!!
I'm taking notes as well, so keep the suggestions coming!
Btw, I didn't get a chance to put the center diff in or try a whole lot of other setups since I bent my axles about 5 minutes into it
Go big or go home!
Slash 2wd, Bandit VXL, 4x4 PE
what shock pistons and fluid weight do you recommend? I need to stiffen things up a bit I think. It bottoms way to easy. Two people at the track last night told me after watching it jump that the shocks need stiffened up a bit.
Besides the 40 Weight associated oil, what about different pistons?? Is the 40Wt oil thicker than what is in there?
And what about fluid in the CD?
stick with the factory 100 or go thicker?
Last edited by milkman; 01-08-2010 at 10:05 AM.
May have been mentioned already, but I want to reiterate.
The 2 biggest mistakes people make when adjusting their vehicles setup are:
- Not understanding how the vehicle drive in a neutral setup (a starting point)
- Making too many adjustments at once, not being able to determine which change did what and how much of a change it made.
Use a setup guide. Find a neutral configuration and learn how the truck drives in that setup. Then, make fine adjustments and test, then another fine adjustment and test.
It'll take a little time, but in the end you'll have a good understanding of what changes do what so on race nights you can make quick, impactful adjustments as needed.
thanks, I kept track of what adjustments I made so far.
I have loosened the front sway bar, may remove it at some point if needed.
I have laid down the front shocks one hole
I have stood up the rear shocks by one hole both on the bottom so I can keep track of it.
I have went back to a 54T spur, I think the 52 was too much, I may drop a bit in pinions too, I have to order some. I am running 18/54 now. I would like to try 17 and 16/54.
I have also switched the rear hubs/swapped them for 1* of toe in. instead of 4*
I can see what the shock change has done already to the truck just sitting on the bench. It has given the truck a little rake pushing more weight to the front. If the back gets loose I may put the 2.5* hubs on or try going back to the 4* set up. I think the shock may be the biggest effect on what I have done.
We will go from here. I am not going to fuss with the inside of the shocks just yet!
That is next.
Keep any and all suggestions coming, I take notes and I am a fast learner!
Thank you all for this new experience for me. The transition from Summit bashing to Slash racing is fun!
Last edited by milkman; 01-08-2010 at 11:27 AM.
what motor are you running ?
I am running the VXL 3500 with a MMM 1/8 ESC
Whoo hoo, I also just ordered my Slash Pro-Line pre-mount beadlocks M3 compund with bow ties too!!
Last edited by milkman; 01-08-2010 at 11:53 AM.
Also, for the track what about the CD fluid, should I stick to 100 or go lighter on low traction surfaces? I cant find that little paper that came with my CD!!, LOL
I know if I go lighter, it will transfer more power to the front right? At least thats what happened in my PE Revo when I was into the chainsaws, LOL..
I just was not sure for slick tracks like the one I am at. I am going to get a 2nd CD to change up when he has the heat on in the building, giving the track more traction....
Also what viscosity oil is in the Big Bores from the factory?
An other suggestions on shock oil for a little stiffer setup to take the jumps better?
I already have one suggestion of 40wt Associated oil.. any others. I just want a little more discussion on that topic, thats all
Last edited by milkman; 01-08-2010 at 01:55 PM.