Results 1 to 36 of 36
  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    19

    Busted Front Drive Hub.. why Traxxas Why

    well. I busted Piece Tra6888, My truck went 2wheel drive.. took me about 10mins to figure out ..Traxxas used Plastic for a drive part.. Whats funny is they have trax6888x and its Harden Steel

    I did Switch to a 3c8000 pack and change the pinion to 19T per the manual

  2. #2
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    18
    What were you doing when it broke?

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    438
    Quote Originally Posted by michellelane71
    well. I busted Piece Tra6888, My truck went 2wheel drive.. took me about 10mins to figure out ..Traxxas used Plastic for a drive part.. Whats funny is they have trax6888x and its Harden Steel

    I did Switch to a 3c8000 pack and change the pinion to 19T per the manual
    Plastic keeps costs down, hardened steel is a profitable upgrade. How else do you make a truck like this and keep it under $400?? They're going to have weak links, it's just the nature of the business. or the (beast)

  4. #4
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    19
    Just jumping some ramps.. Just suprized Traxxas would use Plastic piece on the wrong and the harden Steel on the Rear..

    not to mention.. That part tra6888 not instock anywhere

  5. #5
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1,514
    Would you rather them use a plastic on the rear instead or pay more up front to have the steel on the front? I guess they could have put a lot of aluminum on it and then put a brushed motor in instead to keep the cost down but that would have been no fun.

  6. #6
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    19
    I prefer to pay a few dollor more to have Steel Parts in the Driveline. being that the RTR doesnt have a center diff the front is getting alot of power also.. and funny thing is the Steel 6888x is cheaper then buying the plastic 6888 stock part

  7. #7
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1,514
    Well, I guess we know what should be upgraded then huh?

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Crestwood, Il.
    Posts
    459
    same thing happened to me. i did a mod using pieces from a rusler. but you have to cut down the center shaft. if you want info and pics, let me know.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Accepting requests for bashing at GREENWOOD BASHPLEX in Pittsburgh PA!! Check the thread in the track buddy forum and reply there or pm
    Posts
    13,626
    Firesprink, ... Of course we want info and pics. Bring it on.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Crestwood, Il.
    Posts
    459
    all pieces i used were from a rustler vxl. you need a out drive (4628r), a axle stub(2753x) and a metal u-joint(can be found it 1951). put all that together. the axle stub slides perfectly into the center shaft of the slash. measure down the center shaft to where the pin hole is in the axle stub and drill a small hole first(just to make sure you got it rite) once you got it, drill a 3/32 hole into the center shaft and the axle stub and secure with a screw pin from 4628r. you have to grind it flush with the center shaft. then cut down the center shaft to fit. use the other screw pin to attach the yolk to the diff and you get this.
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...1/100_1179.jpg
    as you can see, i just got done running in the snow with a 5000 3c lipo. no probs. this will also give you a little play in the joint, i think having the stub into the center shaft like it is stock makes it to rigid. any kind of movement will break that out drive. and a steel one would bend the center shaft. but thats just my opinion.

    Edited for image size. Please keep all images at or below 640 x 480 pixels. -cooleo
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-02-2010 at 06:07 PM.

  11. #11
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    19
    What I did.. was I took a bic pen casing.. make a small spacer to push the the shaft up further. the 6888 piece was like broken in half but still had some spline left. so the spacer at the rear I made pushed the shaft up enough.. been working.

  12. #12
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Bowling Green, KY
    Posts
    1,035
    Darn it! I just broke this part too. I wasn't even jumping, just running around the parking lot at work in the snow. It was my 3rd time out in the snow so I guess it was the cold that made it brittle. I wonder when the hardened steel part will be available? I don't know if I want to do the mod up here to it. There is still a little bit left on it so when the snow melts off of it, I hope I can rig it up to work.
    It stinks. All the big parts that can break but this one little part will keep me from running it. It's all good though, I have had my fair share of fun runs with no problems. Can't complain too much.
    ****** out Rustler
    Slash 4x4 gettin' close

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Escondido
    Posts
    324
    Mine came with a steel one,It was on the optional center diff

  14. #14
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Oak Ridge North Texas
    Posts
    52
    Do you guys not grasp COLD and plastic don't mix??
    Into The Fence Racing
    SlashTMaxxRustlerVXLRazeST

  15. #15
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Bowling Green, KY
    Posts
    1,035
    Well MitchD, I just got excited and tried to replace that part with the one that came on the optional center diff, it didn't work. The size and shape of the shaft coming out of the front diff isn't the same as that part. O well, I tried.

    lookn, I do grasp the cold and plastic thing. But how can you resist throwing some snow around?!? It hardly ever snows here.
    ****** out Rustler
    Slash 4x4 gettin' close

  16. #16
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Bowling Green, KY
    Posts
    1,035
    Well, super glue and hope didn't hold it together so I went on and done the mod. Thank you firesprink for posting. I never would have thought this up. It's ugly, but it works!







    I ran it for a while in the snow and it held up fine.

    michellelane, did you get yours fixed?
    ****** out Rustler
    Slash 4x4 gettin' close

  17. #17
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Bowling Green, KY
    Posts
    1,035
    So towerhobbies finally got in part 6888 a while back so I decided to go on and pick one up with some other stuff I needed. I have ran the truck several times with stock tires with the new one with no problems. First time out with MT tires, after about 10 minutes, I notice I'm 2wd again. Part number 6888 is stupid. Now tower says part 6888x will be there early march. When early march arrives, will it then say mid march? How bout then? Late march? I just want 6888x. That would make sense. Why o why can't good parts be available after 2 months?

    (Sorry, a little aggravated)
    ****** out Rustler
    Slash 4x4 gettin' close

  18. #18
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Everett,Wa
    Posts
    145
    Sorry to hear your having such problems. Did you check and adjust clearance for a lil slop in the driveline? Front to rear movement can be adjusted a lil bit by adjusting the steel hub piece on the slipper clutch output shaft.
    I have heard Traxxas now has the 6888x available, try giving them a call.
    Does it look like it is twisting apart of just snapping apart?
    CasGar Bashers UnInc.
    Est. '02
    a.k.a garcol

  19. #19
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Bowling Green, KY
    Posts
    1,035
    The first one split more like front to back (compared to truck). This one broke the whole tooth part off the base. You know, I called about some bent axles, the guy said he would send some out to me, I asked him about this part, he said it would be available in a few weeks (about 3 weeks ago), and then he must have thought I didn't want the axles then because I never got any. I don't care too much, they would have bent anyway. I have tougher spares for the 2wd and rustler. I will try to call about this part. But if they are just going to send me another 6888, I'll still keep my ghetto fix on it until 6888x is out and use 6888 for emergency.
    ****** out Rustler
    Slash 4x4 gettin' close

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    785
    Mine does not look like a U-Joint mine is one solid part...???

    I have broke as of today now 5 of the plastic front part...

    At least I have the hardend steel joint #6888X in the glove box waiting to go on.

    Do somehave a one peice part and some a U-Joint type??

    PE vs RTR?? Is that why?
    Slash 4X4 PLATINUM EDITION, Revo 3.3 Crawler

  21. #21
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
    Posts
    123
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. eXtreme
    Mine does not look like a U-Joint mine is one solid part...???

    I have broke as of today now 5 of the plastic front part...

    At least I have the hardend steel joint #6888X in the glove box waiting to go on.

    Do somehave a one peice part and some a U-Joint type??

    PE vs RTR?? Is that why?
    This U-Joint is a custom mod/fix, when #6888 & #6888x were not available....

  22. #22
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    158
    Just picked up the steel one in my LHS on Friday!

  23. #23
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Posts
    1,178
    Fishydude, I feel your pain I know what it's like to wait on a part. Typically we try and get all the parts out at the same time as the product releases, if not before. Every once in a while with a HUGE hit like the 4X4 Slash it proves to be difficult.

    Good news is we do have the 6888X in stock. Why don't you drop me a PM and let's see if we can't get you taken care of.

    With a 4 wheel drive I typically try to land "off throttle" when I jump. I know I beat one to death over the weekend and it took all the abuse I could throw at it and then some.

    Chris

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Murrieta, CA
    Posts
    338
    Is there any place I can get the steel hub (6888X)? I have broken several plastic ones and have not been able to find this part available anywhere.

  25. #25
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    5
    RC Boca has them in stock www.rcboca.com

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Murrieta, CA
    Posts
    338
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick53
    RC Boca has them in stock www.rcboca.com
    Great, thank you!

  27. #27
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    2
    I break part number 6888 atleast 2 times everytime I go to my local track. Sucks but atleast its only a $4 part. They are back ordered everwhere. I finally have built up a stockpile after calling many hobby shops around the county .Can't wait to try 6888X.

  28. #28
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    New Orleans area
    Posts
    1,188
    Quote Originally Posted by RiChHoBo
    I break part number 6888 atleast 2 times everytime I go to my local track. Sucks but atleast its only a $4 part. They are back ordered everwhere. I finally have built up a stockpile after calling many hobby shops around the county .Can't wait to try 6888X.
    Call Traxxas. They may have them even though they don't show in stock. Ask me how I know!
    HARDCORR RACING

  29. #29
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    St. Pete FLA
    Posts
    543


    My solution is an old t-maxx cvd drive cup, a screw and some JB weld. It won't be the next thing that breaks.

  30. #30
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    785
    Quote Originally Posted by dtnel
    A++ on the mod.

    X2!!!!

    Anyone else have issues with the metal hub number 6888X

    I was putting mine in and the set screw strpped to well it's pretty messed up.

    I can't get it all the way in or out.

    But it's in enough to not let the hub off the output shaft on the diff. GRRRR...

    So now I have a new part in the truck but because the screw sticks out I can't trun because it rubs and locks up the drive line...

    What do I do now??

    I tried using a lil cut off wheel to remove the nub but can only get it down so far.

    Think traxxas will send me a new metal hub?

    I spent 9.50 for the thing to be shipped and now I'm worse off then I was before...
    Slash 4X4 PLATINUM EDITION, Revo 3.3 Crawler

  31. #31
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    43
    You could either use a file or grinder on a dremel and grind it off, or even use a drill bit to drill it out just so it's flush with the surface. You could even drill it a bit below the surface and use some JB weld to glue it in place.

    Just a couple of ideas.

  32. #32
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    St. Pete FLA
    Posts
    543
    You want to be able to take it off for bearing maintenance. I wouldn't recommend anything permanent. I would drill it out. Only problem will be saving the threads, or you will end up buying another once you have it off.

  33. #33
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    5
    I also had some trouble getting the setscrew to thread all the way in. It kept trying to crossthread. But when I removed it the setscrew would go right in. It just took a little patience and some wiggling to get it to thread in.
    The 6888x is threaded on both sides, but the setscrew only uses the threads on 1 side. So you should be able to drill it out and insert a new setscrew from the other side.
    The 6888x is quite a bit longer than the 6888 so it engages better with the driveshaft.

    Good Luck!!

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    785
    I took the dremel to it last night then took it for a run around the yard.

    It seems to be holding up fine, but if this one breaks then I'm in a sticky situation. The set screw is almost all the way in and now it it's ground down theres not really a way it can back out. I guess uif I have to replace it or get it off for working on the front diff I can drill it out at that time.

    Is the set screw for the steel hub larger then the ones for the plastic one?

    I have 5 set screw from all the plastic ones I've broke. But when I opened the steel one it seems a little larger in diameter...
    Slash 4X4 PLATINUM EDITION, Revo 3.3 Crawler

  35. #35
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    NB, Canada
    Posts
    293
    You know, I was just saying the other day "I don't understand how all these people are breaking these things, I bash the heck out of mine and it's still running strong"

    And of course, tonight I'm running the truck easy on asphalt and what happens next...yup, broken front drive hub lol. But when I was jumping the truck 10 feet up in the air, nothing, not one broken part lol go figure!

    So add me to the list of two wheel drive 4x4's

  36. #36
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Bowling Green, KY
    Posts
    1,035
    I have experienced the same thing. I jump the truck like crazy and bash it hard but both of my 6888 parts broke while driving around on flat ground. Go figure.
    ****** out Rustler
    Slash 4x4 gettin' close

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •