I had a brand new pair of Venom Lipos 3s, 6400mah and both did the same thing, the LVC kept on cutting in, so I just switched the LVC off :-)), works perfect, now making a novak smart stop....thanks vxlrocket
rustler vxl stampede vxl 3s lipo power
the ones having troubles, what temps are the batteries before running. Try getting them up around 90 or so, then running them.
ok and how do we get the temp to 90?
rustler vxl stampede vxl 3s lipo power
This has just been touched on in the posts above mine but with much of the USA stuck in the dead of winter I thought I'd toss in my 2c. I typically keep my rc stuff in the garage where its not much warmer than outside (Indiana). I am having the same issues, esp with a brand new 3s pack I bought off of ebay. I think the cold weather is causing cell voltage to drop under acceleration and causing the cutoff. Going to bring in the batteries to warm them today and try my theory out.
I can tell you I hit LVC way early on a few packs at the track Thursday with my MMM/2650 system..
It was 25*F in the track...it was darn cold!
I know of other guys with all typs of trucks complaining about LVCs that day...
Originally Posted by virkdoc
They do make specific items, such as linked. I usually just set them in front of a small ceramic heater for a few minutes before I run them. (while I am getting everything else ready, or on the computer). Or if going somewhere to run, I set them on the dash with the defroster on. I assure you it will make a world of difference with the lvc problem. I started following some threads on heli forums, because my copter was acting fishy this fall when it was getting down around 40 or so. Just didn't have the oomph to get it up and run like usual. Same deal with the slash, moreso the 4x4 than the others, but if the pack is cold it just will not perform as well. You may pull it off, check the voltage and still say 7.9 or so on a 2s, and it may only take 1500mah to put back in it. I have 4 vxl powered vehicles, no problems at all with warm packs. I think a bunch are getting sent back that aren't necessarily faulty.
I don't think the vxl issue that we are talking about here has to do with the cold though. Mine does it when it is 100 degrees out!
I guess those moderators dont like truth....therefore its worth bringing up again!!!!Originally Posted by 951prerun
So when should ur vxl shut off at what volts on the battery. I check everytime when i recharge my batterys and they are just below 3.5 volts
Stock Slash 4x4
Generally between 3.0 and 3.3 per cell......VXL usually will shut off early thereby reducing your run times.......other brands of SC's will allow you to program it to what ever you want.
ok so mine is acting normal then
Stock Slash 4x4
Resting voltage will always read higher than operating voltage.
When I use a low voltage alarm also it does not indacate low voltage when the vxl lvc trips and shuts down.
3.0 is pushing it. Your cells won't last very long if you take them that low regularly. I like to stop running mine around 3.7 actually... some believe that 3.5 is even a little low. On cheaper lipos I don't mind running them until they hit around 3.0 but on my expensive ones, I really don't ever want to see anything below 3.5 per cell.
This is a VXL issue the MMM does not do it.Originally Posted by milkman
havnt failed I just found 1000 ways that wont work
Back in the day... Mechanical Speed Controls, did not care about the temp, it just worked ! And your 1200mAh NiCD's you just ran them till the car wouldn't move anymore... no voltage checking, no expensive chargers, no temp monitoring, just plug in the overnight wall charger for a full tricle charge.
All this new tech is great, and hard to believe the amps that are being used with recent LiPo etc. But it does make me miss the good old days, of simple RC, if you had a bunch of $20 packs you could just run as long as you want, no thermal overload protection, no LVC, and you didn't worry about the battery packs at all since they were so low power and only 7.2 volt. Makes me want to set one up old school to go along with the new brushless/lipo....
Any old farts in their 30's feel what I'm talking about ? :-)
Sure do BT EMT
BUT... I sure don't miss the long charge times. I am loving the 45 minutes that it takes to charge a 5000 Lipo or 3000 nimh. I will tell you what I really DO MISS big time though. I remember buying my first rc car (it seemed really really fast, and would spin out and almost do wheelies) I got it from Radio Shack for $25 and you could even buy parts for it if something broke. I sure do wish I could buy a decent rc truck for my kids to bash around and not worry about them breaking one thing that would ultimately take the entire vehicle out of comission. It sure does pay to spend a little more money and get a "real" rc vehicle... even if it does mean dealing with LVC issues and such :-)
Well I'd say an XL-5 Bandit or something would be close to what we had years ago. Maybe find one with a MSC to make it even easier and cheaper. Go with some 2400 NiCD's so you don't worry about draining the pack all the way down for your kids.
Over 30 guy here raising his hand.Originally Posted by BT_EMT
I keep it simple... I turn the LVC off and run 5000mah nimhs in my VXL Slash baja Bug. I was going to jump into lipo, but it seems like more trouble and $$$ than it's worth. All I do is bash with friends.
I think it's the $620 BL Emaxx that got me thinking about all this. This is supposed to be a hobby. How many people in here have more invested in their RC than their real car is worth ?
Add a charger for $80-$150 or so, a pair of 5k plus LiPo's for maybe $150 or more for top brands, and you are close to $1,000 ! Holy smokes that would pay for a lot of real car repairs or a down payment !
Mods, if you want to move this to the Alley, I think some more old farts would like to continue this conversation....IMHO...
Well, nothing is saying you have to go with, brushless, lipo, lvc, and so on. You can still keep it perfectly simple if you want to. I don't think there is too much to miss about the days of old at all except for the cars themselves. The manual speed control burning up resistors, with anything other than a stock silver can, contacts getting worn/dirty, servo and linkage out of adjustment. 1200mah packs that you had to watch gearing to make a 4 minute heat. Not to mention cutting comms, replacing brushes. I'll take the new stuff for an actual runner anyday.Originally Posted by BT_EMT
charging over night to run for 5 min is over rated...lol...if your car is only worth $600 bucks you shouldn't be in this hobby...and it's all about how far and fast you wanna go and for how long....u can still "keep it simple"...just not with an advanced truck like these...there are other companies still selling model's with mechanical speed controls and other companies selling nicd's...i'll give you my wall charger for the shipping cost's...buy all that stuff, sell the stuff you pull off and you'll end up with a cheap simple rc...but it will still take 8 hrs to charge, run for 5 min and be slow...i'm not 30 yet...but close...i would have to say that the wal-mart settups are the most comparable to the old rc's (grasshopper etc) (not trying being a jerk just trying to put in my honest 2 cents)
Last edited by streetsports; 02-07-2010 at 12:03 PM.
@ 80% for years?
Originally Posted by BT_EMT
Well honestly I think you get a heck of a lot more for your money now than years ago. Yeah that truck is $620. But look at what your getting. Lets just compare to a late 80's clodbuster, the popular mt of the day and probably the closest comparison timewise. Looking at a 89 tower hobbies add, $220 for the kit, $49 for bearings, $100 for a set of decent oil filled shocks, $60 for a low end futaba mag sport, $120 for a novak t1x that would probably be pushing it with a couple mild mods, and no reverse. $35 each for a couple monster mash motors. That has you at $619 for a truck thats going to run maybe, maybe 25mph, for about 7 or 8 minutes at best with some super high dollar packs, not going to take near the beating that e-maxx would, and have three times the maintenance. Not to mention that $620 was a lot harder to come by 20 years ago than it is now.
I do realize this is a railroading of this thread, but would like to carry it out somewhere else, I think its pretty fun to see different points of view.
Last edited by junkman; 02-07-2010 at 11:52 AM.
Old fart here, 47. I dont miss the old days. With proper gearing and decent batteries I love the convenience of plug n play still. And the run times of 30 minutes + is awsome. With the performance of a machine that can powerslide around corners wheely down the straight aways and run with electronics that are water resistant. I am not looking back.
Yes it is more expensive, but still good batteries and chargers "back in the day" werent cheap either.
I think maybe it could be the fact that we want more power and longer grins that has lead us to where we are.
You can still buy a cheap rc car and run cheap batteries etc. But why would anyone want that now days with the high performance that is available.
I burn up less equipment now days than in the old days and I get ALOT more grin time. I like it ALOT, lol.
With proper equipment and proper set-ups, I think it is easier now than it used to be. And a whole lot more fun.
Just my humble opinion.
Have FUN all.
CasGar Bashers UnInc.
I'm not even that old and I remember when only the elite racers had the Sanyo 1800 SCE's, matched packs even LOL. I agree that you get a lot more for your money than you used to. Can't even compare a clodbuster to today's r/c's with its all plastic gearboxes and plastic (or if your lucky brass) bushings.
On another note, I also have a VXL problem and remembered this thread so I thought I'd post. I have the older VXL-3s system in my e-firestorm (not waterproof) Was going to play with a 3S pack the other day and it wouldn't turn on or it would turn on and when I hit the throttle it would turn off. Sometimes the off/on button wouldn't even turn the car on. Did this with a couple of my 3S packs and I believe both are charged pretty well. So I took it inside to let everything warm up (i'm now keeping batts inside all the time) and tried same thing - plug battery in (get a small spark), turn on speed control and get red light, then give it the throttle and speed control shuts off. If I'm careful I can get the wheels to turn slightly with light throttle but the thing shuts off pretty quick. I plugged in my 2s pack and things seem to work just fine. I'm thinking its a problem with my 3S pack but it is fine in my Slash 4x4 so I'm not sure whats changed here. Any thoughts before I call tech support? btw, I've ran this setup many times in the past and never had a problem. I do need to pay attnetion to the fact that this is the non waterproof version of the speed control when i'm cleaning or running car in wet conditions.
I have 3 trucks are running VXL system. I turn off the LVC on all of them cuz the early shut-off problem. I just stop the truck when ever I feel it slow down.....works OK to me.
Slash PE & Ja-two.
As a 47 year old I agree...Heck I built a associated rc 100 back in the 70's I think I had like a grand in it. I remember delivering newspapers for like a year to pay for it (I still have it).Originally Posted by junkman
Try running the VXL3s in Profile#2(Race Mode) to see if this helps with out shutting down. Slayden is running this speed control with no problem.
1/16 Revo/Slash 4x4/Revo 2.0
HPI Baja 5T-Loaded
i am having the same problem with one of my vxl .i didnt think to try lvc off. does it actually solve the problem.i think most people are having problems with internal esc.factory glitch?my 4x4 shuts off periodically also. very random,could b dirt in the button.no prolems last race.but the race 2 weeks ago it just turned off twice luckily right before the race not during.in traxxas defence i see lots off people having trouble with other brands of esc at races.
I actually have had my ESC shutoff here and there, even though my pack was fully charged. I'm not sure what's causing it. Apparantly something is too sensitive for certain packs. Not sure. I'm sure whatever it is, they will get it fixed.
I prefer Lipo packs for racing due to their power and performance and also runtime. You can't get the same punch and power/runtime curve with NiMH's.
Does everyone NEED this??? NO.. Most people and I mean most everyone, but the small crowd that actually takes racing seriously will want to run Lipos.
For those people, I recommend turning the voltage cutoff mode off if you are experiencing this problem until it is fixed. You'll just have to monitor the pack closely after ten minutes of running or so.
For racers, you're only running for the length of the race. Put the battery back on the charger after each race. We did it all last year with the stock 2wd Slash. No one ever races until their battery dumps competely - or intentionally anyway. As soon as you see the power fall off, stop it and pull the pack and recharge it.
For people that aren't ready to mess with Lipos, then don't mess with them. Use NiMh's. They offer great performance and can be discharged all teh way over and over and over/
The whole this vs that stuff is just silly and a waste of time.
Bottom line, is to let Traxxas know about your troubles. They're rarely fixed by posting problems on the internet alone. You must send it in and/ or call cust service and let them know what is going on. If they have a voltage cutoff for LiPos then it should work correctly. If it's having problems with specific packs and or packs that are older, then I'm sure they can adjust their parameters to accomodate. One way or the other, it will get fixed. But you have to communicate the problem to them.
If the huge sudden current drawn were the cause of LVC early engagement, can we install a Power Capacitor on VXL to smooth out the voltage drop? say 10V(for 2s) 8200uF?
I haven't quizzed the engineers on it yet, but a cap makes sense to me. However, anything like that will obviously void the warranty or any kind of free help you'd get from the service dept.
I only race my Lipos, which means I only need them to run for the race length, and then I put them back on the charger. I disable voltage cutoff and it works great.
I understand that you shouldn't have to do this, but until it's resolved, it's what I recommend
I did this with my Tekin system and problem solved. They make stutter stopper that plugs right in your reciever, along with the stock cap they give you in the box.Originally Posted by Wilsonf
Maybe the Novak Glitch Buster would be a worthy investment...
I also want to add that if you have a bad cell in your Lipo batteries, or if your packs are not in 100% good condition that this can in fact cause your receiver to go into fail afe when the voltage drops below a certain amount.
This situation will make it look like your ESC is tripping even when it's disabled.
Really? I ran my PE for the first time today and it left me wanting more.Originally Posted by h82b2nd