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  1. #1
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    Slash 4x4 motor and battery overheating?

    Hey guys, I just had my 15th birthday and for my present I got the slash 4x4. This is my first really good quality rc car. So just then I was running it at the local school and I was doing speed runs across the ovals when it suddenly stopped. I panicked and took the body off and touched the motor and the battery and they were really hot but I hadn't done any research on overheating so I didn't know the 5 second test. Please help I really don't know what to do and will my car be alright. Please text 0475 522 868.

    Cheers in advance

  2. #2
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    What battery are you running? Stock gears? How long did you run it for, the battery might have just died. If you are running a lipo it will run good until it stops.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=CoccaCola01;6273142]Hey guys, I just had my 15th birthday and for my present I got the slash 4x4. This is my first really good quality rc car. So just then I was running it at the local school and I was doing speed runs across the ovals when it suddenly stopped. I panicked and took the body off and touched the motor and the battery and they were really hot but I hadn't done any research on overheating so I didn't know the 5 second test. Please help I really don't know what to do and will my car be alright. Please text 0475 522 868.


    First toss the five second rule and get an IR temp gun for about $10-$15.
    Next if its 80 outside that motor can feel like 500 and in reality be around 200 or less, just yesterday my neighbors son had a 1/18 scale traxxas latrax teton he thought was toast as he couldn't hardly touch it at all, after I went in the house and got my temp gun is was about 130f but had probably cooled about 20 buy then but still nowhere near to hot.
    That said NiMh batterys will get pretty warm as well when pushed to the end which has already been mentioned.
    If you are running the NiMh that came with it I doubt you hurt your car at all.
    A little something to remember, to little power from the battery can get the motor and esc warm as fast as to much can, then theres the fact the esc has a thermal shut down if it got to hot, the motor doesn't but the esc does.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the advice much appreciated

    Also on my first run I hit the curb quite hard and bent the centre driveshaft and bent it. So I ordered a new one and replaced it today and it's a bit clicky I guess. So when I'm going slow it jolts forward is there any way I can fix this
    Last edited by cooleocool; 07-15-2016 at 11:34 AM. Reason: merge

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoccaCola01 View Post
    Thanks for the advice much appreciated

    Also on my first run I hit the curb quite hard and bent the centre driveshaft and bent it. So I ordered a new one and replaced it today and it's a bit clicky I guess. So when I'm going slow it jolts forward is there any way I can fix this
    Theres a good chance there not in phase, this would cause a slight bind at each revolution, for some reason it is more pronounced with the stock shafts.
    There are many threads where guys have put there mips on and experienced a clattering or shaking until they position the two half's correctly.
    If this is the issue it can be fixed simply by separating the halfs and making sure when you put them back together where the lower stub axle meats and the upper end connects to the diff output shaft.
    see below.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  6. #6
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    Sorry for being so brief but it is the blue aluminium tube downwind with the middle

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoccaCola01 View Post
    Sorry for being so brief but it is the blue aluminium tube downwind with the middle
    No I'm sorry as I misread your post, I now see it says center shaft.
    That said they are going to make some noise but the distance the shaft can move forward and back can be adjusted buy loosening the rear splined input piece on the slipper shaft back and forth, I like to leave a fare amount off movement available so if the chassis flexes in a crash it has room to give.
    If you make it to tight (less back and forth movement) it will cause the center shaft to bend in a easier in a lesser impact hit.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum and the addiction! You are among a group of people who share the love of the Traxxas Slash 4x4! If you have any questions please feel free to ask. Remember we are here to help!

    I have experimented with moving the rear spline of the driveshaft forward. I had negative results as it created a wobble. I just keep it in the stock position. Does its job.
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier MikeMcE's Avatar
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    Or ditch it all together and get a Tekno Big Bone...it wont bend and has orings to keep the noise down
    HANG UP AND DRIVE!
    Slash 2wd 4x4
    PRO MT Yeti 4x4

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeMcE View Post
    Or ditch it all together and get a Tekno Big Bone...it wont bend and has orings to keep the noise down
    if you notch the chassis it is ok... but it is way louder than stock
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nhgfjrKi0o

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier MikeMcE's Avatar
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    Slash 4x4 motor and battery overheating?

    I spent 3 quality minutes with a round file..... Non issue

    If you set this up correctly along with the slipper, and the kings head long brass bushing not the blue traxxas one, a dab of green slime on the two o rings on each end, it is quiet compared to a rattling stock one I run the off and rub was minor, but then my chassis and arms do not flex. The whole enchilada works because of all the small tricks , not just screwing parts together.

    My rig screams in a straight line,wheelies at will at speed , turns , stops, and runs cool.......after months of fiddling
    Last edited by MikeMcE; 07-20-2016 at 06:05 PM.
    HANG UP AND DRIVE!
    Slash 2wd 4x4
    PRO MT Yeti 4x4

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeMcE View Post
    I spent 3 quality minutes with a round file..... Non issue

    If you set this up correctly along with the slipper, and the kings head long brass bushing not the blue traxxas one, a dab of green slime on the two o rings on each end, it is quiet compared to a rattling stock one I run the off and rub was minor, but then my chassis and arms do not flex. The whole enchilada works because of all the small tricks , not just screwing parts together.

    My rig screams in a straight line,wheelies at will at speed , turns , stops, and runs cool.......after months of fiddling
    I like the big bone as well and run it in my MT slash but had to go back to the stock unit with the 6s power in my speed run rig.
    I even tried the solid HR shaft but both wobbled so bad under full power pulls the shafts would hit the esc and battery even on the stand, the stock unit with a center XO-1 carrier bearing was the only way to stop it.
    I'm working on a center bearing mod for the big bone now that I'm going to the top center motor mount as 27/34 mod 1 is as tall as I can gear it right now.
    After the mod gearing of any range should be a non issue.
    But yes tho I used a dremel it takes a couple seconds to remove the small amount of material causing the chassis /contact.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

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