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  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    28

    DeWalt Conversion

    A few people have asked me how I did my conversion. If you can solder, the mod is fairly painless. Itís also cheap. The whole thing probably cost about $75. If you keep the dual mount plate and tape the hole and skip some of the other stuff, you could probably get it done for less than $35. Hereís a thread with my truck: http://www.traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=492844. Also, there are many other links in the forum with pictures and other ideas on this conversion. This is just how I did it.

    Supplies
    6Ē - Black 12ga wire (motor to ESC)
    6Ē - Red 12ga wire (motor to ESC)
    4ea - Male bullet connectors
    3ea - 100nF Capacitors
    1 - Rear motor mount; TRX p/n: 5660
    1 - Single motor mount plate; TRX p/n: 5690X
    1 - Single gear cover; TRX p/n: 5677X
    1 - Spacer (fabricated)
    2 - Motor to motor mount screws; 4mm countersunk head
    1 - DeWalt motor; p/n: 396505-20
    2 - Replacement brushes; p/n: 493511-00
    1 - RRP pinion; 18t (w/ 5mm hole - stock pinions wonít work on the DeWalt)
    1 - Spur gear, 62t; TRX p/n: 3959
    Heat transfer compound
    Semi-gloss black testers model paint
    Shrink tube


    Procedure
    1. Remove the brushes from the motor; solder on the power wires. I used solid brass bullets from my LHS. They plug right into the Traxxas ones. As for the wires, I used (2) 3Ē wires for each side. I used el cheapo bulk wire from Lowes, not very flexible but its sufficient.
    2. Remove the pinion gear from the DeWalt. Be careful not to bend the shaft. I scored the gear between 2 teeth with a dremel cut off desk (also score the gear on the opposite side). Then while firmly supporting the gear on an anvil, I hit a chisel placed between the teeth on one of the score marks. The pinion cracked in half.
    3. Slightly flatten 1 side of the motor shaft for the pinion set grub screw. Dremel it, then smooth with a file. Donít install the new pinion yet. Be sure to blow all of the debris out of the motor.
    4. Solder the caps to the motor as follows (you will need a powerful iron to heat the tabs enough or the caps will pop off every time you crash):
    a. [1] Positive terminal to motor can
    b. [2] Negative terminal to motor can
    c. [3] Positive terminal to Negative terminal
    5. Paint the motor black. Not sure if it really helps, but there are arguments that the black paint helps to dissipate heat. Regardless, it looks better anyways. I also painted the motor mount & spacer (detailed below). Also, some argue that you should run the motor in a cup of water to break it in. I broke mine in at full throttle on the street. Works great!
    6. Reinstall the brushes w/ power wires.
    7. Enlarge the holes on the motor mount. I filled the original holes all in with JB weld. After letting it cure overnight, I smoothed out the inside surface for a clean look then drilled & countersunk new mount holes to perfectly align with the oversized motor.
    8. To get the pinion to fully line up with the spur you may have to make a spacer. The spacer fits between the mount and the motor. I used a 1/8Ē piece of aluminum. Youíll have to notch the spacer so the tabs on the motor can donít interfere. I put the heat transfer compound (computer supply store) on both sides of the spacer. May not be necessary, but oh well.
    9. Assemble the motor/spacer/motor mount; use the 4mm countersunk screws. I had to do this at the counter of my LHS so I could get the best grip length. Now, install the pinion. Some people have not had to use the spacer. You may be able to just put the pinion on backwards. Wouldnít line up for me that way. Do what you have to do.
    10. You may have to assembly everything in step 9 a few times to get the gears to align (including adjusting pinion spacing on the motor shaft & varying the thickness of the spacer).
    11. Install the new motor mount plate on the gearbox (youíll have to remove the gearbox)
    12. Install the new motor setup & new gear cover.
    13. Plug everything in, install batts & bash.
    14. Note - the gearing I used, 18/62, is a good mix between speed & acceleration. Also, Iím using 16.8v NiMH, not lipo.
    15. Hereís a few I referenced (and thanks to the authors):
    a. http://www.traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=478448
    b. http://www.traxxas.com/forums/showth...t+installation
    c. http://www.traxxas.com/forums/showth...ghlight=smoked


    Parts
    DeWalt motor p/n # 396505-20 (I actually bought mine from a local DeWalt repair center + they gave me some stickers to go with it)
    http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...ken=&pop=flush
    Brushes p/n # 603754-01
    http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...ken=&pop=flush
    Caps
    http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062365

    Note the brushes are in case you need replacements. Iíve abused this motor for several months now with no problems and Iíve never replaced them. And to save a few bucks, you could reuse the caps & wires from the titans.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 11-18-2010 at 11:36 PM.

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