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Thread: New Revo

  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    New Revo

    So got a brand new 5308 Revo 3.3 in the mail today, and it is awesome. I am having some trouble getting this thing tuned properly though. I broke it in following the Traxxas directions to a "t", and then started to go from there. Being new to nitro, I didn't know what I was doing. My tune was all over the place. First I was way too rich on the low speed, then I was getting the chewbacka noise, then I was at temps of like 330 degrees. At that point I got a little scared and decided to call it quits for the day. Needles are now reset to factory and I will give it another shot tomorrow. Any tips?
    Go Big or Go Home.

  2. #2
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Check out Youtube, check out the tuning sections posted a sticky in the Engine forum and search for this specific topic as it comes up every other day.
    Tune in small increments. These are small engines and large twists of the needles will cause you to miss the tune.
    The Super Derecho

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    basically the factory settings will get your car to start... I like to go richer on the HSN but leaner on the LSN... the HSN must be set so you at least hit second very fast but not too high of temp at WOT obviously, if you go too rich the car wont hit second, you must try getting it just above... leaner on the LSN will keep your idle nice and smooth but it will sound like its too high but it aint... 1mm idle gap or less is also essential before any tuning, without that correct you will basically as a beginner never get the tune right...
    If you don't like Nitro, you don't like anything!

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. icepick832's Avatar
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    http://monster.traxxas.com/showpost....7&postcount=26
    Try that link for alot of useful tuning info.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    the good old flowchart... very good "Tuning for dummies" hand book...
    If you don't like Nitro, you don't like anything!

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. icepick832's Avatar
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    lol. I wouldnt call it that, just a great asset for newbies and veterans alike.

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    those early days... getting into it all... thats the first and most important thing I reckon before getting upgrades and all... if you cant tune its useless to do anything else... if you get that flowchart right it will pretty much stay in your head, what to check for when... but it can be made much simpler... once you get it right you will see what I mean...
    If you don't like Nitro, you don't like anything!

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. icepick832's Avatar
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    Couldnt agree more. The flow chart does make it look very intimidating, but once you get a feel for it (as with anything) it becomes second nature. I am at the point that if I have troulbe starting mine, I can tell just by the sound of it cranking, whats wrong, and same with running. And yes, no amount of hop up parts, will make you able to tune or drive for that matter....lol.

  9. #9
    RC Racer
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    Wow, tons of info. Thanks for the help! It's raining this morning, so hopefully it stops by the time I get out of work so I can try tuning this thing again. If it doesn't, well I have the shocks to rebuild with some thicker oil and heavier springs.

    Also, what should I cut out of the body for cooling? I haven't cut out any holes in the windshield or anything yet for cooling. Is this necessary with this truck?
    Go Big or Go Home.

  10. #10
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    It isnt neccesary but its very useful. Just the windshield on the engine side........

    You can only have 2
    Cheap-Performance-Reliability

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. icepick832's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gckless
    Wow, tons of info. Thanks for the help! It's raining this morning, so hopefully it stops by the time I get out of work so I can try tuning this thing again. If it doesn't, well I have the shocks to rebuild with some thicker oil and heavier springs.

    Also, what should I cut out of the body for cooling? I haven't cut out any holes in the windshield or anything yet for cooling. Is this necessary with this truck?
    Depends on your ambient temps (i have never been to Korea, so cant say for sure) whether its needed. It cant hurt it at all though, and just make sure you dont cut a perfect square. Drill the four corners first, to keep them rounded, as this will prevent the body from damage there (less you hit a wall, or roof slide alot.....lol).

  12. #12
    RC Champion
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    One of the biggest keys to tuning is to make very small adjustments to the needles. When you look at the needle thing of a clock face and when you move your needles only move them 1 hour at a time you know like from the 12 O'Clock position to the 1 O'Clock position then make a run to clear out the carb and crankcase of fuel that will allow you to see how the new settings will work. You have to remember that when you change your needle settings they will not take an immediate effect on your engine. Also you have to tune your engine while you have only a half of a tank of fuel. You should never tune your engine with a full tank of fuel as that will cause your engine to run rich for a short time.
    Revo Picco 26
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  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. icepick832's Avatar
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    uhhhh, tuning at full tank, will get you a good running engine at full tank, but lean as it empties. Not really any time rich, less you purposefully have it dripping rich. But I do agree to tune at half tank, engine warmed (isnt this all in the tuning guide?).

  14. #14
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    this should help you.. if you were getting to that high of temps, you were probably running it pretty lean. the "chewbacca" noise happens because the low speed needle is too lean. since the low speed is most likely lean, then maybe other stuff is too. that is what would be causing you to get such high temps. hope that helps!! good luck with it man, and it sounds like you got a nice one so far!

  15. #15
    RC Racer
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    Thers nothing to it for me these days, I mean right now all Ive been doing is going from rich to leaner on the hsn. The lsn I barely mess with.

    Get it started, then watch for blue smoke and lean it out till its fast enough and has blue smoke.
    Brent

  16. #16
    RC Racer
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    First I want to say thank for all the help.

    First successful shock rebuild on the Revo today! Put 50Wt in them front and rear, put tan springs on the back and the stock rear springs in the front (the manual says that they are in between green and gold, but the color on the shock is green. thoughts?), and put the variable damping kit in with #2 pistons. Seems to be good, if only I could test it out.

    So then I took it out, in between the rain showers, and it started and idled just fine for about 20 seconds. I blipped the throttle a few times to clear it out, and did a gradual speed run, not going it much faster than a second or two into second gear. When I let off throttle, I braked, turned, and then it stalled. I can't get it to start now. It is turning over, and I have both lights on the starter. I hear two sounds coming from the truck, the compression sound of the piston moving coming from the exhaust, and also a sound that is hard to describe but sounds kinda like a clicking sound, and is clicking at the same rate as the piston is moving. It sounds like it's not getting enough fuel or spark, or heat rather from the glow plug. I did put a fuel filter on, so I am going to bypass that to see if that's the problem. Shouldn't be, but might as well check. Also I pulled out my glow plug and tried to see if the starting system was heating it but when I pulled it out it wasn't heating it and I got no light on the wand. Will the starting system only heat it in the engine? Put it back in and I got a light, but again can't tell if it's heating it. I'd assume so.

    Any thoughts? Don't have enough experience in nitro to know where to begin really
    Go Big or Go Home.

  17. #17
    RC Racer
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    Oh by the way I just figured out the whole manual vs. on truck spring thing. Was in low light, didn't see the white and yellow boxes. So apparently, the stock springs ARE green.
    Go Big or Go Home.

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. icepick832's Avatar
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    With the plug out, you need to hold it next to bare metal on the head, or anywhere on the truck, to complete the circuit. Also, does the truck try to "lurch" forward when trying to start it?? It may be something in the clutch bell(Clinking sound, if metallic sounding).

  19. #19
    RC Racer
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    Nope it doesn't move. Not even a hint of starting.

    Yet another question, how do I change the gear mesh between the spur and the pinion? It's a little too tight, but the bigger issue is getting it started.
    Go Big or Go Home.

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. icepick832's Avatar
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    For starting, go a touch richer than factory, as long as your getting heat (at plug), air, and fuel, it should start. To much fuel or air, and it wont, but at factory settings, it should. May have to richen a touch, or even lean, just to get her going. As for mesh, read the manual for specifics on how it should be set, but it is controlled by the 2 motor mount screws accessed on the botm of the mount. One of them is just a standard hole (straight through), while the other is elongated, to control the angle of the motor, which controls the mesh.

    EDIT: Starting, will mainly be HSN factory, but the LSN and idle are the key needles for starting.

  21. #21
    RC Racer
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    Yeah I had the needles at the factory setting, and there wasn't even a hint of starting after it shut down.
    Go Big or Go Home.

  22. #22
    RC Racer
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    So I took out the Revo today and started at factory settings. Started right up so I am not sure what the deal was the other day when it would not start. Played with it a little bit and tried to tune it. It's still running rich; lots of smoke and a bit boggy. Even though it's that rich, the engine is still getting up to around 280 degrees, which makes me a bit hesitant about leaning it out. Temperatures outside weren't bad today, maybe 72 degrees, though really humid. Any input?

    Also, what are some of your guys' needle settings (ballpark, I know they change from day to day)?
    Go Big or Go Home.

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. icepick832's Avatar
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    For me, just about factory on the HSN, a 1/16 to 1/8 turn lean on the LSN, but as you said, yours wont need to be the same. Even 2 identical motors, side by side with the same owner, will have different settings. Mine runs at about 220 to 260 degrees. Humidity (makes heavy air) will make it run a bit richer as well.

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