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  1. #1
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    Need help with soldering gun

    Looking for something cheap to just get the job done. What kind of watts is a minimum? I saw one from Home Depot that's electric and 40 watts 900 degrees. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

  2. #2
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    If you have a radio shack near you go there you can get a cheap one to get the job done for like 10bucks that what I did.

  3. #3
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 757RCs View Post
    If you have a radio shack near you go there you can get a cheap one to get the job done for like 10bucks that what I did.
    I'd recommend almost ANY iron other than a Radio Shack product.
    http://m.homedepot.com/p/Weller-WLC1...100/203834068/
    This is a much much better choice.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  4. #4
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    If he is looking for a one job soldering gun why not but a cheap one its not everyday you use it.. Now if you plan on doing a ton of jobs with it then I totally agree with you weller is a great brand.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    I like soldering iron over 80wts for soldering those huge bullet connectors of castle creations;

    Anything below 40wts will be great for electrical circuits or smaller connections.
    Live life to the fullest

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier Strykeviper's Avatar
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    I got a 60w iron from my lhs for around $10 does the job so far.
    ERBE, Summit, Sl4sh MT, P4de, 1/16 GD 4x4

  7. #7
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Wattage has very little relevance here. Soldering is about the ability to transfer heat. Two of the most popular soldering stations today: the Hakko FX-888D and the Weller WES51 are rated at 65W (26V) and 50W (24V) respectively. I bought the latter for under $100 and it is faster, more accurate, and more versatile than any stand-alone iron. The station I linked is even more reasonable and a great performer. Wattage is somewhat relevant to heat production, but a good, appropriate tip and adjustable temperature are IMO much more important. I've had Radio Shack irons. Their tips are generally horrible as is their performance.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    With regards to tips ksb51rl, are there ones that do not oxidise easily; I am using silver lead free solder, but the tips do tend to oxidise a lot. Some people say use water to cool it fats and scrape off the extra,

    Is there a better way of getting rid of the excess and waht solder will not odise the tips as much.
    Live life to the fullest

  9. #9
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    Great answers. Thanks. How about a solder that I don't have to use droplets of flux with??

  10. #10
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Need help with soldering gun

    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    With regards to tips ksb51rl, are there ones that do not oxidise easily; I am using silver lead free solder, but the tips do tend to oxidise a lot. Some people say use water to cool it fats and scrape off the extra,

    Is there a better way of getting rid of the excess and waht solder will not odise the tips as much.
    Depends on the type of tip and temperature. My new Weller uses totally different tips than the one I linked and both of these are different from my old Weller. Being able to turn the temperature down to 400F between solder joints greatly increases the life of tips by decreasing oxidation. And of course I try to always keep the tip tinned - bright shiny silver from the time I turn it on until I put it away.
    I am not a fan of silver or lead-free solder. It is harder to work with and gives negligible benefit for our uses. I like a nice 60/40 multicore solder.
    For wiping I use the standard wet solder sponge and tin immediately after but I really should get some brass wool for the job sometime.

    Quote Originally Posted by garciakcfan View Post
    Great answers. Thanks. How about a solder that I don't have to use droplets of flux with??
    Flux is a cleaner/surface preparer. What are you having trouble with? Application of it or having to use it at all or...?
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 05-14-2015 at 10:40 PM.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  11. #11
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    Having to use it. Part of the problem is that I've never done it before until really tonight. And had nobody but YouTube to help me through it all. I'm trying to solder traxxas female ends to a venom battery... I got it to click in but it wasn't a tight fit and I easily pulled out the gold connector. I dunno where I went wrong but I did. Just worried that I'm going to screw up an 80 dollar battery.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    the correct solder makes a huge difference.... to weather you do a good job or not.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  13. #13
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    Take it to the hobby shop they will do it for you and avoid the hassle. If you solder the connector with the polarity inverted you will short the batt and can damage the esc too.

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NFS View Post
    Take it to the hobby shop they will do it for you and avoid the hassle. If you solder the connector with the polarity inverted you will short the batt and can damage the esc too.
    Very true, this can be an expensive excersise; even after all the experience with soldering I have from yester years and then this hobby. I manage to do the inevitable...hihihi

    When I installed an external bec for my MMP, after verifying that all connection was good, I managed to have the plastic connectors wrong, result...MMP went into flames, luckily nothing else but that was the fastest kiss goodbye of my prized possesion 3 seconfs..got it out fast before the receivers , motor and even the chassis went intoo flames too.

    But also it is the best way to learn everything in the hobby, from maintaing your truck, to understanding the eltronic side and doing these minor soldering tasks. I am sure I am not the only one who has had their days;;
    Live life to the fullest

  15. #15
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    Haha, did the same with an xl-2. Soldered the paralell cabel harnes wrong. A little boom when connected the batteries.. scary.
    Erbe
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  16. #16
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    Newbie problems. Lol. I just got into this a month and a half ago and I'm not the most mechanically inclined person in the world but I've torn apart and upgraded a lot on this revo. Thanks to my addictive personality... Perfect hobby for that as I'm finding out. Ha. After I bought the revo a month later I bought a slash! Lol. I'm learning as I go with a lot of frustration along the way! Their is a sense of satisfaction after I install something and it takes the pain away... Lol. Just need this battery done and I'm pretty much done with both trucks.

  17. #17
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    I damaged some traxxas connectors while learning how to solder before switched to deans connectors. Traxxas tabs are tricky they have a mark don't cross it or the tab wont go all the way into the connector, neither put too much solde on it, sometimes I had to use the dremel to reduce the excess of solder.

  18. #18
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    That's what I was struggling with. The extra solder. So deans connectors are easier to solder?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by garciakcfan View Post
    That's what I was struggling with. The extra solder. So deans connectors are easier to solder?
    Yup, and easier to remove too.

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    copy paste you tube

    How to Solder Traxxas Connectors & Deans

    a few tips.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  21. #21
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    Also, coming from 30 years of soldering, invest in a decent iron. I've been using the same Hakko since 1996 and I've never had an issue where I have to much solder to the point of having to dremel off excess. tin the wire, tin the tab (if you're doing Dean's) and a little drip on the iron tip and it'll all come together easily and with minimal excess solder.

    Don't waste your time and money on cheap crap, you'll end up getting frustrated with the hobby, or pay someone else to do it like a hobby shop and now you've paid twice for one job.

    4, 5, 6 batteries later and you've paid for the good iron already and you'll still have it for years to come.

    here's a pic of my RC10 Worlds car. There's zero excess and all I used was a quality soldering iron and radio shack 60/40 solder. I'd post a closer clearer pic but I'm in Afghanistan right now and my cars are all in SoCal


  22. #22
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    As a follow-up to the above, I'll add that a good soldering station could last the 30 years mentioned. I have been told that the Weller I inherited and just replaced was updated in 1981, but I have the older model. I could still get repair parts for it, but decided to go with slightly newer and more versatile technology.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  23. #23
    RC Racer RcSpeedWagon's Avatar
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    This is the best solder I have ever used. Very easy to work with, and no cold connections.
    http://wsdeans.com/products/solder/index.html
    RcSpeedWagon's the name. Airbrushing is my game.

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