Mamba Micro Pro ESC + Neu 1105/2y + 2S and/or 3S
I will mount it on a custom motorplate which enables me to lower it into the chassis (see this thread). I'm trying to get the weight down as much as I can.
What do you think about this combination in the Merv? Who can do the rpm math for me? Not sure how this works...
Guess I'll just have to find out by myself then :-)
I would appreciate some feedback on max speed calculations. I have seen them around, but I cant seem to find them...
Finally. Another long holiday break and time to setup the Neu 1105 + mamba micro pro. I took a stock mini revo, used a lightweight 800mah lipo (2s) and man, this thing rips! It's not a top speed build, but for bashing, it's really great. The batteries obviously don't last very long, but I don't mind switching every 10 mins.
So far, all I had to replace was the stock servo, as expected. Went with a good old hitec 5085mg I was able to pick up from a local shop here in Calgary. I expect to break less then with my speed build, since it weighs much less. I hope even the dtock drivetrain will last.
Good luck with that esc. It is really to small for that vehicle
What he means iS the Micro pro is only rated for something like 35 amps. Your going to pull way more than that with that motor and 3S.
The stock vxl-3m is rated at 54 amps... The mamba micro pro is great for your average mini. The mini revo however, is not your average mini....
None of us here want to dispute paper math with you or are trying to be mean. We are all just trying to be helpful and save you a little bit of money. If you have already purchased a Mamba Micro then much of this conversation is moot but here is the low down. The stock VXL 3M ESC is has a higher amp rating than the micro. On 2s or 3s the stock ESC has been burned up with the NUE motors, and even the stock motor. Those that have burned up an ESC and want to have a little margin for error in the actual real world amp handling capacity of their ESC have opted to install full sized 1/10 ESCs (Mamba Max, SV3 and others). Is it possible to run 2 and 3s with the stock ESC, if your gearing is sensible, yes. A 1/18 micro? - sure, will you burn it up? - more than likely. I will be following along to see if your success beats the odds with the micro. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Coach I love to read your posts, they has so.much insight in them. I hope to become as knowledgeable as you with regards to this hobby. To comment on the 1/10 th scale esc on the mini revo. It was a very noticeable difference. Like the difference from 2s to 3s on stock vxl there is the same improvement from 2s stock esc to 2s on my sidewinder 2. It was wicked fun. To bad my slash needs that esc.
Thanks for the kind words - I have been in the electric hobby since the 80s (yea - i am that old ). And as my name signifies, I coached kids for a lot of years (20+) so, when it comes to teaching, I just cant help myself.
I agree - the 1/10 ESCs, although kind of a pain to fit in there, are a very worth while upgrade, along with a more robust servo, of course. You can find pretty good deals on the SV3 on EBAY.
Ill remember that once my vxl3m dies.
Please note this is a very small (1105) neu engine, and only produces 400w, unlike my favorite Neu, the 1107 which produces close to 1000w if I am not mistaken. That one I am running with a 1/10 scale esc (mamba max pro).
The main reason I decided to go with the mini esc, is weight, which is what this project is all about.
All input and feedback is appreciated, really!
Those numbers for the motors are max power recommendations. It means that properly geared you shouldn't be pulling more than "400w". If overgeared it will pull more possible damaging equipment. I remember hearing that Castle/neu underrate their equipment anyways.
Dye-no-mite Pow-er Go Fast, Wirrrrr Screeeech BOOM
So in other words, there is no real bottleneck? The engine could "pull" let's say 600w and therefore causing it to request more amps, going over the mini's limits?
If that's the case, would adding a capacitor help? That way, you could limit the max Amps flowing from the battery to the ESC, right?
A capacitor is used to smooth out high power but very short duration spikes in current demand... It doesn't limit power flow in any way, so wouldn't help in this situation...
TheMajekalBum is right. a motors power "rating" is simply what the motor can safely pull without being damaged. The motor will pull whatever it needs, according to gearing, and its up to you to make sure you gear it so that it doesn't pull more than 400W.
On 2 cells that shouldn't be a problem, but going to 3 cells without changing gearing, its almost certain it will want to pull more than 35 amps, assuming stock 28/50 gearing.
The speed controller itself is basically a dynamic resister already. I'd have to say that wouldn't work, but I don't have an electrical degree. Your best bet to not burn up your electronics is to start your gearing on the low side and keep a close eye on the temps of your electronics, max temp I'd want to see is 160*f. The magnets start to demagnetize around 180*f.
Dye-no-mite Pow-er Go Fast, Wirrrrr Screeeech BOOM
Joking aside, no it wouldn't work, a resister like the one shown in your link would burn up instantly at the power levels we use... Mechanical ESC's use resisters, but they work by limiting voltage, not current.
I would think a mamba micro pro esc would burn up long before the motor overheats.
one option, your ESC has punch control, which limits acceleration speed, which will limit amp draw, since the highest amp draw comes during acceleration. You can experiment with different punch control settings to see if you can get acceptable performance without overheating the esc...
Or better yet, just stick with two cell. If you must use three cell, use a bigger ESC.