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  1. #321
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    Wow! Wow! Wow!
    Last edited by FangsCPO; 08-15-2009 at 09:51 PM.
    FangsCPO
    "How fast was I going Officer?" Wow?

  2. #322
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    WOW! WOW! WOW! MisterCrash, you should change your screen name to Mister ERBE Re-Creator. Traxxas should put you on their payroll. All those upgrades are really impressive. Nice job......I'm looking forward to some video of your ERBE in action.
    FangsCPO
    "How fast was I going Officer?" Wow?

  3. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    Modded battery doors that won't pop open in my thread on RC Monster. Starts on the last post at the bottom of the page. Yes I know it might not have happened to you yet so why bother right? Well when it does happen to you, you'll know what to do to fix it.
    Heh, I had the same problem, after a good crash in which my 5000mah 3s *****s ended up sliding about 20 feet down the road I decided I needed to figure out a way to keep the battery doors closed too .

    I like your solution and it looks like you may have tried something similiar to what I did if those are holes I see in your battery door latches?

    This is what I came up with and it has worked well so far.


  4. #324
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Not bad, candyman!
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  5. #325
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    You have a good eye candyman, yes indeed I tried those body clips but they didn't fit as well as yours seem to do, I probably didn't make the hole in exactly the right spot so that is why I had to find a different solution.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  6. #326
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    8th scale center diff ''how to'' in my thread on RC Monster. It starts at post #255.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  7. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    8th scale center diff ''how to'' in my thread on RC Monster. It starts at post #255.
    You never cease to amaze me

    Nice work!

  8. #328
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    MC, you know I fully respect you and your work, but won't the misaligned holes in the below plate cause some problems? I mean, that's where the new output-gear bolts to, and the misaligned holes won't allow it to be centered or spin true...right?

    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  9. #329
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Nevermind, the output gear is centered on the original output bearing and there is enough play in the holes you drilled on the plastic output gear to allow it to center itself.

    Never should have doubted you, MC, I knew better...I am very sorry.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  10. #330
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    Yep like I said in RC Monster, my work is not perfect down to a thousandth of an inch but as long as the output gear is centered on the diff, it will work very well. I wish I would have a mill and a lathe to do more precise work but I make due with what I have. Maybe someone would like to donate a mill and a lathe, I will pay for shiping
    It's been fun. See ya.

  11. #331
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    Fast as a BULLET
    It's been fun. See ya.

  12. #332
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    It's been a little more than seven months since I got my ERBE and extensively modified things on it to see if it could run better and be more durable. During those months, the ERBE went through hundreds of cycles of 4S, 5S and 6S both in racing and bashing. I will review everything I did and posted on this forum, the one on RC Monster and Revo-World and will post a compilation of what worked and what I think is worth doing.

    Hey! I had to find something to bring back this thread from the dead.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  13. #333
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    UPDATE AFTER 7 MONTHS OF USE

    Here’s a compilation of some of the modifications I have done and have worked really well. There’s also a few hop ups I use and like very much. Every item listed links to either pics on my Photobucket account or a manufacturer for the hop ups.

    MODIFICATIONS

    LST XXL diffs (I got them from this guy on ebay)
    Diff blocks (for LST diffs only, doesn’t work with stock TRX diffs)
    8th scale center diff made with a LST XXL diff
    No slop OFNA adapters
    Aluminum slipper pad
    Battery doors mod
    Servo blocks
    Mud flaps (made of Lexan or hard rubber or whatever else works)
    6 mm carbon fiber motor plate
    Bottom screw for motor mount
    Screws in middle of rear bulkhead
    Rear shock tower shim
    On/Off switch in a balloon with ''stay on'' blocker
    Rear skid plate protector
    4 mm screws for motor
    Nuts for screws on axle carriers
    Set screws and nuts on rocker posts
    Rear body mount brace
    Pieces of 600 grit sand paper for the pivot balls
    Rear turnbuckle ball ends everywhere
    O-rings on ball ends to keep them on the ball
    All of the Steve Slayden steering and castor mods.
    Brass inserts where needed

    HOP UP PARTS I HAVE BEEN VERY SATISFIED WITH

    Tekno front sway bar mount with a custom sway bar made with this spring steel rod
    Traxxas rear sway bar
    Racers Edge servo horn
    Traxxas Jato Shock boots (other kinds are available from other manufacturers)
    RD Racing axle carriers (The stock ones are fine but I really like RD Racing stuff)
    RD Racing shock towers front and rear
    Proline servo arm for single steering servo
    Traxxas red aluminum pushrods and turnbuckles
    Variable damping shock pistons
    Aluminum pivot ball caps
    RC Monster pinions
    RC Monster drive shaft coupler to use the center shafts with 8th scale diffs.
    Bullet connectors 5 mm or bigger. I use Polymax 5.5 mm bullets.

    I think that's it. I hope I didn't forget anything. There are other mods I did that worked but I just don't feel they are worth doing. I did everything as experiments remember? For example, the Summit shafts, they worked great but are not necessary with a good and well adjusted slipper. Once I am done going through the Summit shafts I have left (yes they do wear out but none snapped thanks to the slipper) I will reinstall the original shafts.

    That's it! I really feel I'm done with this truck. I need a new vehicle to work on. I really wish I had the money to get one of those to work on. Click here.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 10-20-2009 at 10:20 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  14. #334
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    fascinating MC, have spent the past 3/4hr going through this thread, making notes. A true inspiration.

  15. #335
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blameless
    fascinating MC, have spent the past 3/4hr going through this thread, making notes. A true inspiration.
    I too have gone through for the past hour, lol, cheers to MC!!!!!! Genius!!!

    PS - i don't even own a revo....i'm an emaxxster, none the less this was so interesting and informative, especially regarding the aluminum slipper pad! Traxxas must have been taking notes, new BL emaxx 3908 has aluminum slipper pads!!!!!
    You break some, you buy some.

  16. #336
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    My pleasure, I had a lot of fun doing the mods and if it helps then it's all worth it to me. Traxxas, I'm still waiting on my new 4WD Slash as recognition for the aluminum slipper pad idea
    It's been fun. See ya.

  17. #337
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    My Revo also looks like a MC clone. The o-ring and fuel tubing has been a huge help. I finally got the the little tubes put into the wheel hubs last weekend. Big help, especially when setting camber. Thanks again.

  18. #338
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    You ever climb up tree trunks with your ERBE? You know, you see a nice big tree with big roots that give just the right curve from the ground up the trunk and you just send the truck and it climbs the trunk and you do a back flip and land on the wheels. Well I was at the park with my son and while he was playing with some kids, I brought the ERBE out of the car and started playing around in the leaves. The kids and parents were saying ''oohs'' and ''aahs'' at how fast the truck was. So I started showing off by climbing this tree trunk and back flipping the truck back on its wheels and there was some ''WOWS'' and ''That's so cool''. Well I over did it and climbed that trunk so high that it just caught a branch and it did not back flip, it just fell back on the wing from 12 feet high. Result was a broken rear body mount, one of the ball ends of the body mount brace popped off the ball and my CF rear wing mount tie bar broke. Now I couldn't stop because the kids were asking for more so I continued with the rear body mount, wing mount and wing just hanging from the body. After a couple tumbles, the body just ripped in half But I still continued with just the front portion of the body still on the truck until the LVC kicked in. I couldn't disappoint my fans The ERBE is fixed now but I still need a new body. I have the Baja Bug body but I don't want to damage that one just yet.

    It's been fun. See ya.

  19. #339
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    Now you can get a cool PL Harddrive body.

  20. #340
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    What would we do for kids
    Just play.

  21. #341
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    you're the peoples hero, well done!
    infowars.com

  22. #342
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    Nice lookin truck.
    I was anti-obama before it was cool!

  23. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    Yep like I said in RC Monster, my work is not perfect down to a thousandth of an inch but as long as the output gear is centered on the diff, it will work very well. I wish I would have a mill and a lathe to do more precise work but I make due with what I have. Maybe someone would like to donate a mill and a lathe, I will pay for shiping
    MC Let me know I have a bridgeport and a ton of accessories and some time after christmas PM me. I do not have a metal lathe yet though
    havnt failed I just found 1000 ways that wont work

  24. #344
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    Are you offering to donate your Bridgeport and accessories?
    It's been fun. See ya.

  25. #345
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    So I couldn't wait until I got a new body to run my ERBE. I decided to use my Baja Bug body but I wanted to use the rear wing so I cut the rear engine area of the body accordingly to fit over the wing mount and I kept the part I cut off (engine) and trimmed it to fit inside the wing mount. I used dabs of GOOP to hold it in place and it surprised me how strong it holds. It looks a bit better than to have just a big gaping hole back there. The bigger the wheels, the better the truck looks with that body IMO. The Baja Bug body has a weak area, right in that bend around the flat spot where the rear body posts stick through. Just a couple tumbles and it's cracked already. That is what I would call a major flaw on that body. Disappointing to say the least. I did the best I could to repair it and hope it holds but I wonder. I am not going to show a pic because I am a shamed of that repair, it looks awful The pics below were taken before the repair.

    Last edited by mistercrash; 11-14-2009 at 08:21 AM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  26. #346
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    I like to spread happiness all over the world.

    Quoted from RC Monster forums:
    ''I purchased and MC 1/8th Scale Diff! - Yesterday, 08:10 PM
    First off i want to say that MC is a great person to deal with, he answered all my questions about the 1/8th scale CD and even gave me tips and help on installing it properly.

    unfortunately i don't have access to the machinery required to complete the 1/8th scale diff but would have jumped at the chance to make one myself if i did

    I purchased the MC 1/8th Scale diff and he shipped it out the same day, it came just as pictured in this thread carbon fiber disk and all. The diff itself when i got to look at it up close is made extremely well, all of the cuts and modifications needed to make the diff are top notch!

    Just in case you are on the fence about getting one... DO IT! this CD makes a huge difference in my opinion. on to the review!

    WOW!!!! this thing is awesome! i filled it with 50k only, since i really only run 4s geared 18/54 and this is how a CD should work! it unloads a tiny bit to the front and will only wheelie if i from almost a dead stop punch it. this CD makes the truck handle so much better when it comes to on steer push since its not unloading to the front causing the truck to lift the nose up, slide and not grip the ground. you can also see the difference when going in a straight line, it makes the truck hug the ground and stay planted not wasting that valuable mamba power!

    I'm glad i made the investment this CD it is a must if you like going to the track, I'm sure i will be able to turn much better and clear jumps easier since i wont be unloading motor power to the front. Next test will be to see how well it holds up to all the abuse of brushless over time and at the track but i can say that this thing is beefy and looks like it would out far far outlast a stock E-Revo CD not to mention work 100x better

    Thanks again MC!
    ''
    End of quote.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  27. #347
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    1/8th Scale CD!

    MC you beat me too it!

    That is my review of the MC 1/8th scale CD... SIMPLY AWESOME!

  28. #348
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    I just ordered the Kershaw Design LCG chassis. I will do the swap on my ERBE and it will help me build a second ERBE for my son. While the chassis comes in, here's a nice review of the chassis by a satisfied customer. (Probably one of Dan's buddies ) But still a good review. It's a movie so very little reading involved.

    Le movie of Le Kershaw Design chassis.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  29. #349
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    Good looking chassis but it's $180 and you gotta add the mounts for the esc and reciever??? That's odd to me
    Xerun 150A 2200kv ERBE
    Dewalt 14.4v Summit

  30. #350
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    There's a place for the ESC, for the receiver box, I'm thinking I'll mount it where the second servo would be. I run single servo. I know it's $180 but I wanted something to do on this ERBE for the winter and by doing that, I will be able to build a second ERBE for my son with all the spare parts I have lying around. I also paid for those spare parts so I should put them to use. I have been thinking about an aluminum chassis for a long time and since Gorilla doesn't make their chassis for the ERevo anymore, that's the only option. I want to try it and I will.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  31. #351
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    I'm not saying it's a bad chassis or anything I'm just saying it is sn odd oversight by the designer. I would put the reciever on the same place you mentioned since I also run a single servo. I like the idea of an aluminum chassis but that one is more than I would want to pay. Have you considered the carbon fibre 3.3 chassis like R1 ran? Last time I checked they were on sale for $90( I think) that may be an option
    Xerun 150A 2200kv ERBE
    Dewalt 14.4v Summit

  32. #352
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    That would be like converting a nitro Revo to electric which I mentioned in the past I don't like. In this case, it would be converting an ERBE into a conversion. I don't see the point I'm sorry. But I do like carbon fiber and I'm thinking that the lower plate of that Kershaw chassis would look good made with 3.5 or 4 mm thick carbon fiber. It's just me, I just can't leave anything stock
    It's been fun. See ya.

  33. #353
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    My son's name is Gabriel. So Gabriel's ERBE will be named ''GERBE''

    So waiting for the arrival of my Kershaw chassis, I started work on GERBE a week ago and basically broke down the build into 5 phases.

    Phase 1: Rear end assembled and mounted on chassis.
    Phase 2: Front end assembled and mounted on chassis
    Phase 3: Tranny, Motor, Slipper mounted on chassis.
    Phase 4: Electronics (ESC, servo, receiver, receiver box) mounted on chassis.
    Phase 5: Finalizing odds and ends and painting a body.

    I got done with phase 3 today. This will be a full blown basher at the lowest speed possible. Spool in the middle, no CD there. High ride height, no sway bars. ******* 2S2P LiFe batteries, 68 spur, 17 pinion. The settings of the ESC will be very mild. The speed calculator says a little over 23 mph. I think it is still too fast for a five year old so I will set the transmitter's throttle down to maybe 60%. I'm looking for 15/16 mph. Maybe even less. If a ten pound truck traveling at 15 mph hour hits my boy in the legs, it will hurt but I don't think it will break bones. It could be very dangerous for him if the truck was coming at 40 mph.
    For the body, I still don't know what I'll get him. I thought of the Proline Baja Bug but the rear end is weak. Maybe a Proline Slipstream. Or I thought that for a little boy, a real truck body would be cool and he would like it, like the Proline Ford F650 body.

    Here's pics of the progress. Nothing new really, it's just a GERBE

    It's been fun. See ya.

  34. #354
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    Why not let him pick out the body. Show him the pictures on the computer and see which one he likes. That is if he is old enough to make ONE decision most little kids will say they want about 10 different bodies LOL
    Xerun 150A 2200kv ERBE
    Dewalt 14.4v Summit

  35. #355
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    FYI- I've tried setting the throttle to 50-60% or so so my nephews could run my erbe and the problem I ran into is if you lower the reverse throttle much at all the brakes hardly do anything.

  36. #356
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    That is exactly what I did, show him pics on the puter and he went with the pick up truck.




    candyman, do you mean you adjusted the throttle on the radio or the ESC?
    It's been fun. See ya.

  37. #357
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    well I've been looking at wheels and tires and the choices are numerous. Then I thought it would be nice to stop spending money on this little project (at least for now) and I decided to use a set of new Panther Pythons mounted on Traxxas dish wheels that I already have in my arsenal. The problem I find with this is that dish wheels are boring so I will attempt to dress them up with decals I will print using my laser printer and sticky white vinyl sheets. I put the first design I came up with on a pic of the dish wheels in question. I know it's not as good as the funky cool looking chrome wheels out there but it should be fine for starters.

    It's been fun. See ya.

  38. #358
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    Kershaw Design Chassis

    The Kershaw Design Chassis came in this morning so I had the pleasure of opening the box and inspect the components.

    FIRST OBSERVATIONS:
    - The top plate is made of heat treated 3.08 mm thick aluminum. The machining cuts are nice and clean. The plate seems to have been finished by giving it a light sanding on a belt sander.
    - The two vertical towers are made of ABS plastic.
    - The bottom plate is made of 2.2 mm thick heat treated aluminum with nice machining cuts and seems to have the same belt sander finishing as the top plate.
    - The whole chassis with all the hardware weights around 520 grams. I will have to weight it again once it's all assembled, weigh the stock Nylon composite chassis for comparison and also compare the weights of the ERBE RTR with stock chassis and with Kershaw chassis.

    POSITIVES:
    - Fast shipping to Canada and good communication with Dan. I dealt with him in the past and Dan has always been helpful and professional.
    - Everything is there, no missing parts and it was nicely packaged.
    - All the hardware is packaged in individual numbered bags corresponding to the different steps of the assembly.
    - Once the ERBE is all put back together, I suspect that this chassis will be very stiff and durable. There will be lots of room to use different dimension Lithium Polymer and Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries. The batteries are placed much lower than the stock Nylon composite chassis so the CG will be much lower.

    NEGATIVES:
    - It would ad a considerable amount to the sale price but this chassis would look so much better if it was anodized.
    - I hate to complain about this as I have tried myself to make and sell parts before but the price is a little high. $125 to $140 range would be more reasonable. The present price should include anodizing.
    - No designated spot to mount the receiver box, although it can be mounted on one of the servo spots if only one steering servo is used, or it's a very easy mod to fabricate a small plate to mount the receiver box where it should be.
    - Dan if you are reading this, go buy a new counter sinking bit. The one you used on my chassis is dull and the counter sinks are grungy looking and off center a bit.
    - The ABS side towers were a little rough looking but a light sanding of the edges cleaned them up nicely. I might dye them black as they are a dark gray in color.

    Looking at the different parts on my work table, there is one thing that just screamed CARBON FIBER at me. That lower plate is a flat piece of aluminum that will be easily duplicated in carbon fiber. So I ordered a 3 mm thick sheet of carbon fiber and will make myself a bottom plate.

    More to come as I slowly start to make the swap.

    It's been fun. See ya.

  39. #359
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    A few more observations about the Kershaw chassis. It is heavier than the stock Nylon composite chassis. I compared the completely assembled Kershaw chassis (battery straps and all) with my complete stock chassis (battery doors and all). The Kershaw chassis is around 80 grams heavier. But when the swap is completed and I compare a stock ERBE with a Kershaw ERBE, the Kershaw ERBE is only 30 grams heavier. This is due to the fact that you don't use the stock middle skid plate and the Steering servo skid plate. 30 grams is no big deal and should not be noticeable. By placing the receiver box in the second steering servo spot, that 30 grams is up front so I find this very good. I like to have as much weight up front as possible on my Revos.

    I weighed the two different versions of the ERBEs using two digital scales, one beneath the front wheels and the second beneath the rear wheels. Both versions had a rear weight of 1714 grams. The stock ERBE had a front weight of 1599 grams and the Kershaw ERBE had a front weight of 1629 grams. I weighed the ERBEs without wheels, body or batteries.

    A COUPLE PROBLEMS WHILE BUILDING

    - My ACE 1015 servo did not fit in the opening so I had to use a file to enlarge it by 1 mm. Not a big problem and easily fixed.
    - The two vertical towers made of ABS plastic have some flex to them and you have to watch out how much torque you put on the long screws that secure the towers to the top and bottom chassis plates. Anything more than ''snug'' squishes the towers and distorts the top plate. I seriously think the towers need more meat to them or maybe a different material should be used. I’m seriously thinking of making new ones myself to make them stronger. Below is a drawing of what the Kershaw towers look like and beside it is what I would intend to make.



    - My rear diff did not stay in place, it pivots and the front end of the diff goes upwards making the joint of the output shaft hit the top chassis plate. I had to make something to keep the diff from pivoting.



    - There are two big holes in the back of the bottom plate that accept two long M4 screws that go in the rear bulkhead. These are to stiffen up the rear. The holes are mis aligned so I had to make two new ones in the correct place. I also had to make spacers to go in between the bulkheads and the bottom plate to keep the correct spacing when the screws are tightened down. You can see in the pic where the two holes are, just behind the ‘’KD’’ in the back of the bottom plate, and where I drilled new holes where the M4 screws are.




    I still did not have the chance to go to a suitable bashing site and beat the truck. But just by fooling around in front of my house on the street and grass and making small jumps, I can tell this chassis performs better than the stock one. The stock chassis is very good and I like it a lot but the lower CG of the Kershaw chassis makes a very noticeable difference. More room for bigger lipos or LiFe packs is very cool. I have been shopping around for batteries I never used to look at before. The chassis is stiff, once everything is put together, it feels really solid and with a few tweaks, it could be even better. I will have to tinker with it this winter.

    I don’t regret buying this chassis because it delivers what it says it will. It is stiff, it is easy to make the swap for an experienced RCer, the CG is much lower than the stock chassis, it gives a lot more options for batteries. The following is just my opinion and I’m allowed to speak my mind so here goes. I like the chassis but the price left a ‘’bitter taste in my mouth’’. For that price, I would expect a better finish, anodizing and better chassis towers. If these can’t be achieved then, the price should be a little lower. But it really does make the ERBE look like a high end Monster Truck rather than a big and expensive plastic toy.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  40. #360
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    I will end with some pics of the finished truck (is it really finished )

    It's been fun. See ya.

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