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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    Drill press, disk/belt sander, hacksaw, files and sand paper is all I have. I also have a small router table with a router installed on it that I got at a yard sale for next to nothing. I made an adapter to be able to use 1/8'' shank Dremel bits on it. No mill or lathe.....yet.

    Very Very Impressive, i was sure you done some of the bits with a mill like the CF motor plate. means know i can have a go at making some of my own stuff now that i dont need $2-3000 bits of equipment

  2. #202
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    Thanks and yes, anything I do, anyone can do it with some basic inexpensive tools.

    WOW! more than 1000 views in less than two hours. I guess some people are very interested in my slipper experiments Anybody from Traxxas reading this?
    It's been fun. See ya.

  3. #203
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    48,652 views!?!?! What's going on here? That's more than 32 000 views in one day

    Anyway, I only had time to try the new aluminum slipper disk for one cycle of 4S before I left for work. It was cool to see how it worked. I first did 5 or 6 minutes on my make shift race course simulating a race. Well it's not really a race because it's grass and asphalt and the jumps are not big but just running the truck very aggressively for 5 or 6 minutes non stop is a good workout for the drive train. It went very well. Then I finished the packs just making full throttle starts from a stand still on a clean spot of asphalt. No sand, dirt or pebbles, just a high traction spot of hot asphalt under the sun. Full throttle, come back quickly to the same spot, full throttle, come back and yadiyadiyada. Every time, the MMM would quickly spool up like it does. I could hear the slipper going wheeez right away, just for a couple feet or half a second, the front wheels would start to lift, as soon as the front wheels lost traction, the CD would kick in and unload to the front wheels bringing them back down. This happened every time, just a small wheelie, 2 or 3 inches off the pavement for 4 or 5 feet with always the same kind of sound from the slipper and the unloading of the CD. So this small test showed good consistency. Same performance every time. But like I said, it was a very small test. More pack cycles will show if the consistency stays and if the slipper holds up. And more track testing is needed.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  4. #204
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    I think I need a CD...
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  5. #205
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    4S1P split into 2S1P

    I did a little work on those 5000 mah 30C/40C 4S lipos I split into 2S packs. I am waiting on 2S balance tabs to come in but I had the two 4S balance tabs that I de-soldered before so I modified them on the belt sander to make 2S balance tabs out of them, that way I could finish the wiring on two of the 2S packs. I went with a red wire for positive and a black for negative of course, I had a choice of dark blue, white or yellow for the node. I went with white. Doesn't really matter what color.

    A piece of closed cell foam between the + and - tabs to keep them apart, I made a small cut in the middle of the foam to route the node wire.



    A small piece of heat shrink that has hot glue inside of it at the base of the wires for added strength and a piece of Gorilla Tape at both ends to protect them.



    I now only need some heat shrink to wrap those two packs up. I could go with the thin shrink that is commonly used, it is very thin at 0.15 mm. I will go to my electronics supply store and buy some heavy duty heat shrink which is more like a hard rubber and is 1 mm thick. Those packs will almost be like hardcase packs.

    As for the aluminum slipper disk, testing is delayed due to bad weather up here. Maybe tomorrow.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 04-28-2009 at 11:04 AM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  6. #206
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    Looks nice, man!

    Can you help me out? When you build your own packs, where do the "node" wires go? I mean, 1 goes to the positive, 1 to the negative and 1 (1 less than however many cells are in the pack) goes...where?
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  7. #207
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    http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_lipo.html

    Just enter the number of cells and if you want a balance tab or not and it will show you where every wire goes.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  8. #208
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    Kick-butt, mistercrash, thank you!!!
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  9. #209
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    You can thank BrianG, he created the website for RC calculations.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  10. #210
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    BrianG is like a God, a Revo God...all bow to the Revo God! Maybe the G stands for God?

    <chanting> Bri-yen, Bri-yen, Bri-Yen...
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  11. #211
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    I'll guess we have two gods then "mistercrash"

  12. #212
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    Dude, You are my new Idol!!! I will be moving to a new house with alot of land and will setup an RC WorkRoom and hope for it to be half as nice as your setup. I also aspire to do the mods you have posted here or linked to as they are great! Thanks so much for testing these mods and showing us in GREAT DETAIL how to do them. Keep me interested in the hobby and is great fun
    20% Warning, Now thats 100% funny.

  13. #213
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    Red *****s

    Thanks guys,

    Yup! The *****s are red, I had a choice of black heat shrink or red, I think red will make the ERBE go faster I have two packs done, still waiting on the balance tabs to finish the last two. The heat shrink is really thick and tough, it should be a long time before I have to replace the shrink, might not even have to as it might out last the battery. I had to flip the positive and negative leads around because when they were coming out of the side, I couldn't close the battery doors. Now they sort of stick out the middle and the packs fit very well.

    [IMG]http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/th_*****_2s1p_4.jpg[/IMG]

    I scanned and modified the ***** stickers a bit then printed them on a regular piece of paper and stuck them to the packs using transparent tape to try to make them look factory. I am pleased with the results. The packs weight 280 grams each. I really hoped to use them to go on with the testing of the aluminum slipper but I'm out of time today, gotta go to work and tomorrow calls for rain again

    [IMG]http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/th_*****_2s1p_5.jpg[/IMG]
    Last edited by mistercrash; 04-29-2009 at 11:55 AM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  14. #214
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    I think Google and Yahoo are directing a lot of their traffic directly to this thread...

    63,000 views!?! That's Assinine!!! Of course, several of them are mine, I have to admit.
    60% Warn! WooooooT!!!

  15. #215
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    Oh yea, mistercrash is the God of Revo Gods!
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  16. #216
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    Awesome build...

  17. #217
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    Testing this slipper clutch is boring, just running back and forth doing hard starts to make the slipper slip gets old very fast. So I decided to bore you with a video of part of a boring testing session. I don't like to be bored alone At first, the slipper is too tight, even the CD doesn't prevent the truck from wheelying. After adjusting the slipper twice, I get it to slip a lot to test it's durability. Near the end of the video, you can hear it starts slipping quite a bit. But I didn't tighten it after I stopped filming, I just finished the packs doing my race simulation and surprisingly, despite the fact that the slipper was slipping a lot at the end of the hard starts part, the truck ran very well and the slipping was less noticeable during the rest of the packs. It's probably because it got to be very hot during the abuse of the repeated hard starts and got to cool down during running normally. One thing I found weird is about three quarters into the video, you can hear that slipper slipping and all of a sudden, I pop a wheely and then, it starts slipping again. Things that make you go ''hmmmm'' I was running my new 2S packs I made earlier by the way.



    And after I was done, I took the slipper apart to compare the used disk to a new one. The abuse you see in the video is part three, the used disk in the pic went through the same abuse twice before. The wear is just starting to show in the middle, the thickness is still the same as the new and never used slipper pad. To the left is the new pad, in the middle is the pad presently used for testing and to the right is the stock steel friction ring.

    Last edited by mistercrash; 04-30-2009 at 10:51 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  18. #218
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    In the last session of the video (after 1/8 and 1/16 adjustments), the starts look really good. How was the throttle applied? Instantly pull the trigger of roll it on smoothly? What punch control setting?

  19. #219
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    Punch control is set at 90% and the throttle was applied fully right away, not gradually.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  20. #220
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    I tried the aluminum slipper on 5S this morning, it went very well. Although I loosened it as much as possible without over doing it, the front end would come up quite high from time to time. Enough for the rear wing to touch the ground some but never enough to flip the truck on its lid. I figure when running on 5S and 6S, you can't expect the slipper (and CD) to eliminate wheelies completely. I think some will agree that on 5 and 6S throttle control is mandatory
    But the slipper worked very very well and there is still not much wear to it even with this kind of power. This is very encouraging right now, but I still want to do more testing before I can say that we got a winner.
    Next I will try something a little different... oil. Yup I will smear a very thin coat of regular motor oil on the slipper pad to see if the ''slipping'' will be even smoother than it is now.

    Dan from Kershaw Design is talking about releasing an improved spring for the slipper. He wants to use Belleville springs rated at 75 lbs each. I told him I want a set I'm still waiting for the pics of his updated ERevo chassis to be posted on his site. Come on Mr. Kershaw! Post those pics

    Stay tuned, next time testing will be on 6S. Can you say ''WHEEEEEEEEEEEEZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ''
    Last edited by mistercrash; 05-01-2009 at 11:43 AM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  21. #221
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    Thank you so much "mistercrash" for your findings on the aluminum slipper

    PS You still won't sell these aluminum slipper, will you

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-maxx Sweden
    Thank you so much "mistercrash" for your findings on the aluminum slipper
    My pleasure. I have been talking a lot about the slipper lately and not much about everything else I have done to my ERBE, and that is because everything else is working flawlessly and nothing is breaking. The only thing that happened needing some repair is during those repeated full throttle starts, one of my EC3 plugs got a little hot and the plastic was slightly starting to melt. I could've still used it but I prefer having plugs that are in top shape so I replaced it. I guess those tests don't put a lot of strain only on the slipper but also the MMM, motor, batteries and wiring.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  23. #223
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    Cool

    HI!... Great work "MISTERCRASH". Just a suggestion. How about putting in tiny slots in the aluminum like slots in a slotted car rotor? It would allow any gases from the heated aluminum to escape + possibly allow a slight cooling effect.

    Also, how about making a clutch disc from a automotive disc brake pad?
    53 Tamiya
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  24. #224
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    The slots are not a bad idea, would it really help? Don't know. Do I really feel like starting over all this testing for slots or automotive brake pads? Don't think so I will carry on with the aluminum disk as it is now and if it proves to be unworthy then I'll look for other options. I'll keep your suggestions in mind.

    Some PMs came in regarding the Dubro Prop Balancer I modified to balance MT wheels and tires. So I took some pics and dimensions to educate everyone on how I use it.

    I posted this image before, I used the original base as a template to make the holes in a 150 mm X 80 mm plate of aluminum. The two pairs of holes are spread apart 120 mm.



    This is the rod that goes through the wheel. It comes with two coned shaped pieces. I added an old Maximizer 17 mm hex, a tube of plastic as a spacer and a collar with a set screw.



    And this is a sequence of pics on how I assemble a wheel on the shaft in case you haven't figured it out by the pics above already.

    It's been fun. See ya.

  25. #225
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    Nice Work

    Nice work Mr. Crash...

    I just picked up a bolt-on modded e-revo last weekend, and spent the past hour or so reading this entire thread. Fantastic creativity and great attention to detail.

    Since I'm just down the road, I'd love to see the truck run sometime - maybe snap some action shots and/or video of it for the gang here on TOC!

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave_mackinnon
    Since I'm just down the road, I'd love to see the truck run sometime - maybe snap some action shots and/or video of it for the gang here on TOC!
    Burlington, Ontario eh! Good day neighbor eh! Take off hoser I sent you a PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  27. #227
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    Slipper testing on 6S

    A short update, I ran two sets of 6S batteries today and the aluminum slipper worked very well. I'm starting to get really excited about this slipper. It's really holding up and can take a lot of abuse. I tried the slipper with a very thin coat of oil on it, just smeared a tiny bit of oil on the slipper pad with my finger before re assembling it. I seriously got the impression that the ''slipping'' was much smoother and more predictable. More on that later as my minivan is packed up to go to the track tomorrow morning. I will report the results when I come back. The rest of the truck ran great, my new Badlands don't look so new anymore already This slipper testing really chewed away at the rubber.

    Now I'm not an expert on batteries so I thought of asking about something that happened with a set of ***** 4S 3500 mah 30C/40C packs I charged today. When they were fully charged, they showed to have packed 3653 mah, that's 153 mah more than their rating of 3500 mah. Is that something I should be worried about? They were ran until the LVC kicked in which was set at 3.2 volts per cell.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 05-02-2009 at 08:32 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  28. #228
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    Maybe the packs are just under-rated, and have more capacity than labeled? or maybe the charger just got a tad carried away? Heh!
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  29. #229
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    That's not too big of a variation in terms of capacity. If your charger indicated a 25% or more difference, then i'd be worried. At least it was on the high side.

  30. #230
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    I'm glad, thanks guys.

    So I'm back from the race track and what a crazy day it was down there. The parking lot was full of cars, the pit area was packed and there was a line up to get on the driver's stand at all times. However, I managed to do a lot of testing of the slipper and everything else and go through a lot of batteries. I ran all these packs today until the LVC kicked in:
    2 times on 6S
    1 time on 5S
    4 times on 4S

    I ran the truck like it was the last lap of an A main and I was just behind the first place driver trying to pass him/her before the end of the race. And here is a pic of the exact same aluminum slipper pad I have been using since the beginning of these tests. I took the slipper assembly out and photographed it exactly as it came of the truck, dirt dust and all, no cleaning to make it pretty before the pic.



    There is hardly any wear on it, it is clear what the friction pattern is with the slipper steel ring. The slipper hasn't even started to wear on the whole surface yet, just more towards the center. The thickness of the pad is still the same as it was before the tests started. It ran flawlessly all day today, and ever since I started running it. I can honestly say that I believe we have a winner here. An aluminum slipper pad is the way to go.
    And judging by the condition of my Summit shafts, it is really doing it's job at protecting my drive train. I visually inspected all the shafts and they are all the same, i.e. no visible signs of wear on them. They are like new (except for the dirt)



    That's it for now, get working people and make yourself an aluminum slipper pad. Mine is made of just regular, ordinary aluminum, it's not even 6061 or 7075 T6 aluminum. Here are some dimensions to make an aluminum slipper pad, I tried to be as accurate as I could.



    I will be working on something for the motor, or more on how it is held on the motor plate.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 05-03-2009 at 05:37 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  31. #231
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    Did you check temps on the slipper in between runs?
    Also, what is the thickness of the aluminum slipper pad?

    And about the 153mAh more capacity you were worried about, that's notheing to be worried about . That just means the batteries are actually better than advertised...
    Last edited by Rebelgium; 05-03-2009 at 06:10 PM.

  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rebelgium
    Did you check temps on the slipper in between runs?
    Also, what is the thickness of the aluminum slipper pad?

    And about the 153mAh more capacity you were worried about, that's notheing to be worried about . That just means the batteries are actually better than advertised...
    Running different S set ups I had different readings on temps of the slipper during testing. The hottest noted was 197 degrees Fahrenheit. That was after bringing the truck in and quickly taking the body off to get the temp. The slipper pad is made of a piece of aluminum that is 3 mm thick. At the rate it is wearing out, I honestly think you could go thinner like 2 mm and it would still last a long time. And thanks for easing my mind about my *****s
    It's been fun. See ya.

  33. #233
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    Very nice mistercrash!
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  34. #234
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    Thanks,

    I will try something new for the motor assembly. I did the same mod as candy76man by using two stock aluminum motor plates together. I'm wondering if aluminum motor plates will help dissipate heat better than the carbon fiber one I have been using. I painted them black with the high temp paint I have that has to be cooked at 650 degrees for an hour. Though stuff.



    And this is the idea I had about the base of the motor mount. The top of the motor mount is held firmly in place by the screw that holds the gear mesh, but the base just pivots and floats on the plastic motor mount pivot block. I wanted the base of the motor mount to be held in place has firmly has the top when the gear mesh is set. Here's what I did and that I'm going to try out.

    On the left is the plastic motor mount pivot block I modified. I cut off the little nob and it is now a little shorter than the stock one on the right. I also made M4 X .7 threads in the hole so that the screws would go in easily.



    An M4 X 10 mm screw with a large washer on the back to hold the pivot block firmly on the motor mount.



    The plastic motor mount pivot block has now two screws, the back one to hold it firmly on the motor mount and the front one to pull the motor mount and pivot block against the motor plate and hold it firmly.



    Now when I want to set the gear mesh, I have two screw to loosen, the top and the bottom one. Not a problem at all has I have to loosen the bottom screw only an eight of a turn to have the motor pivot.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  35. #235
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    Very nice, that is perfect!
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    Thanks,

    I will try something new for the motor assembly. I did the same mod as candy76man by using two stock aluminum motor plates together. I'm wondering if aluminum motor plates will help dissipate heat better than the carbon fiber one I have been using. I painted them black with the high temp paint I have that has to be cooked at 650 degrees for an hour. Though stuff.



    And this is the idea I had about the base of the motor mount. The top of the motor mount is held firmly in place by the screw that holds the gear mesh, but the base just pivots and floats on the plastic motor mount pivot block. I wanted the base of the motor mount to be held in place has firmly has the top when the gear mesh is set. Here's what I did and that I'm going to try out.

    On the left is the plastic motor mount pivot block I modified. I cut off the little nob and it is now a little shorter than the stock one on the right. I also made M4 X .7 threads in the hole so that the screws would go in easily.



    An M4 X 10 mm screw with a large washer on the back to hold the pivot block firmly on the motor mount.



    The plastic motor mount pivot block has now two screws, the back one to hold it firmly on the motor mount and the front one to pull the motor mount and pivot block against the motor plate and hold it firmly.



    Now when I want to set the gear mesh, I have two screw to loosen, the top and the bottom one. Not a problem at all has I have to loosen the bottom screw only an eight of a turn to have the motor pivot.
    lol...weird..... I was thinking about doing the exact same thing to mine today. I decided not too but what you did is pretty much what I was thinking about doing except I was also considering glueing the plastic post inside the motor mount as well as the screw on back to completely eliminate any possibility of movement.

    I may still do it if you don't run into any issues.

  37. #237
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    mistercrash, really must say I am impressed by your talents as problem solvers. Your findings are absolute fantastic for people with Neu 2200KV and 6S, 5S and 4S.

    Unfortunately, I do not have your qualifying brain to fully understand the assambling order to build your Slipper clutch. Could you guid me through this

    1. nut
    2. Washer
    3. spring
    4. Washer
    5. Spur gear
    6. One Steel Disc, (without the Three Friction Pads or)
    7. aluminum slipper (is this fixed screwed with the Steel Disc)
    8. carbon fiber slipper plate
    9. slipper steel ring

    Best Regards
    E-Maxx Sweden

  38. #238
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    Everything is stock except for the aluminum slipper pad. You just have to make that aluminum slipper pad yourself, it doesn't have to be exactly round and you can even be slightly off on the diameter. It doesn't have to look good either, it will work even if it's ugly The only thing that needs to be exact is the 6 small holes, they need to be aligned with the 6 small pins of the stock slipper pad holder. The aluminum slipper pad replaces the three small stock slipper pads. Everything else is stock and is assembled the exact same way as stock.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  39. #239
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    Thanks mistercrash, you are my hero, as usual.

    Just one more little stupid question, I have no idea where to put the "carbon fiber slipper pad” in the chain of assembling?

    how do I get it stuck?

  40. #240
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    You do not use any carbon-fiber pad, that's what the aluminum replaced.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

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