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  1. #81
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    Apr 2007
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    Valrico, FL
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    1,678
    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    I didn't like the flex there was with the stock aluminum motor mount so I made the 3 mm thick carbon fiber one. But there was still flex even with the CF, not as much as with the aluminum mount but the flex was still there. After running the truck a few times, I even noticed a notch on my rear shock tower made by the motor hitting it. The rear of the motor moves up and down when you land a jump and it also moves side to side. I made this mount to support the rear of the motor, It is a piece of maple with a hose clamp of the right size. I split the hose clamp in two and secured it to the wood block with screws.



    The block as to be made with precision. It has to sit under the motor without pushing the motor upwards.



    Here it is installed. There is no need to clamp the motor very hard, just snug is enough to get rid of any flex. This I hope will prevent stripped spurs due to motor mount flex.



    The maple block is secured to the chassis with just one screw from underneath.



    And here is the final installation.



    The truck is running great, between each mod I do I run the truck as much as I can. It's a lot of fun. A little wrenching, a lot of running, I'm having a ball with this project.
    Good idea for holding the motor stationary but I have a question. You obviously have the equipment needed for machining cf so I wonder why you wouldn't have just used either a thicker piece of cf or machine a thicker piece of aluminum to replace the stock motor plate and eliminate the flexing. I'm sure you have a good reason but i was just curious?

  2. #82
    RC Champion
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    Aug 2006
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    Using a thicker piece of CF means the cover plate would not fit anymore and I want to use it. Also, it would move the motor back a little bit and even moving it back by one mm means it will hit the rear shock tower so it would have to be trimmed for clearance. No biggie but I chose to make a rear motor stiffener because I knew that it would absolutely work in eliminating any motor movements. I don't have any machining equipment like a lathe or mill. I wish I did. The most sophisticated tools I have are a couple drill press, couple of miter saws, a belt/disc sander and a table saw. I have a couple tools I made myself like a small table saw with a diamond blade to cut CF sheets to size and a cheap router table and router I bought in a yard sale for which I made a special adapter to use tungsten carbide and diamond bits to work with CF. I have a few power tools like drills and stuff but that would be it. I make all the things I do with those and a lot of filing, Dremelling and sanding by hand.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 03-24-2009 at 01:02 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  3. #83
    RC Qualifier
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    Jul 2008
    Location
    Victoria BC Canada
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    302
    Hey Mr. Crash, is that a 2200 MMM? How comethe engine is black and not green?

  4. #84
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    Apr 2007
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    Winnipeg, Manitoba the Slurpee Capital of the World
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    ERBE comes with a awsome black version
    if you dont break something go higher and faster

  5. #85
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    Jul 2008
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    Victoria BC Canada
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    Learn something new every day!

  6. #86
    RC Champion
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    Aug 2006
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    yep, ERBE for E Revo Black Edition
    It's been fun. See ya.

  7. #87
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    Winnipeg, Manitoba the Slurpee Capital of the World
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    lol once u dye the grey parts like u and me did
    Last edited by revo guy; 03-24-2009 at 07:50 PM.
    if you dont break something go higher and faster

  8. #88
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    Aug 2006
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    Well as anyone figured out that this rear motor mount I made, especially the way I made it was totally stupid? I was cleaning up my work space and glanced at the truck and suddenly it hit me, what if I want to change gearing? How am I going to be able to reset the gear mesh if the rear of the motor doesn't move with the front? I still think that something to hold the rear of the motor is a good idea but the way I did it was not well thought out so I ditched it. Finding a way to have a rear motor mount that lets the rear move with the front when resetting the gear mesh is needed is too complicated for my little brain.
    Candy76man's suggestion of having a thicker front motor mount seems to be much simpler to do. I'll have to look into it.

    Since it was poorly made I deleted the pics on my Photobucket account.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 03-24-2009 at 11:24 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  9. #89
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    Oct 2008
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    MC you could make a mount that bolts to the rear shock tower, either the top or bottom but make it so its kinda like a rest for the motor. It will still support it and will cradle the motor and still allow you to adjust your mesh. I may draw a picture to show what I mean.
    What shall I put here?

  10. #90
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    Aug 2006
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    Update on the slipper clutch pad. I deliberately ran it a little loose to see how it would hold up to over heating. It did very well. I could hear the thing slipping like crazy but it kept on going. I did about 20 hard full throttle starts from a stand still and then brought it back in the garage. By the time I took the body and the gear cover off, I temped the slipper assembly at 250 degrees Fahrenheit. There was no damage to the slipper assembly or the slipper pad and no premature wear of the pad. I did not disassemble the unit to look at the disk. I just re tightened the slipper nut to where it should be and went at it again. It worked like nothing happened. I got it set up right now that it slips a little like it should. It seems like when it starts slipping, it gets hotter of course and when it starts getting hotter, it grabs even more.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  11. #91
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    Oct 2008
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    Ignore the drawing of the motor in the upper right hand corner in the first picture, that was a fluke.




    My drawing capabilities suck so bare with me lol
    What shall I put here?

  12. #92
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    I hate to disappoint you but it looks a lot like what I did. This block underneath the motor will prevent the back of the motor to move the same as the front when you adjust the gear mesh. Remember that when moving the motor to adjust the gear mesh, it moves left or right and also a little bit up or down. A back motor mount or support brace would have to allow the rear of the motor to move like the front to allow gear mesh adjustments and also support it to not move once the gear mesh is set and the adjusting screw in front is tighten. If there was a place on the back of the motor can to have a screw like the one in front for adjusting the gear mesh, there could be two motor mount plates, the stock one in front and a very similar one in the back with a curved slot for that screw. Just like the curved slot for the front screw. That way, to adjust gear mesh, you would have to loosen the front screw and the back screw, set the gear mesh and re tighten the two screws to have the motor supported front and back.
    It's been fun.