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  1. #1
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    The Jeff-o build

    So after being convinced by my roommate's (Jacko) erevo, I decided to get an erevo over an emaxx myself. Feb1, I got a coupon from towerhobbies... so I immediately orderd myself the black erevo. This is going to be kind of a project... so sell out stock parts to get upgraded parts.... so here it is... in stock form


  2. #2
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    I have no plans to make a super souped up erevo (I've seen Jacko's erevo and it flies), just a decent upgraded one for bashing fun. So I originally planned to get a KD700 (don't wanna go BL because of cost concerns), beadlock rims and corr truck body as the first few mods. I'm a sucker for nice wheels... even on my car.... so ultimately the first mod... got em in ebay from some guy running 1/8 buggies. one of the rims was all too dirty from the exhaust pipe too.

    Last edited by jeff_o; 03-06-2009 at 11:48 PM.

  3. #3
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    Later on.. after discovering the Dewalt motors... forget about KD700... i'm going cordless drill Called up Dewalt distributor and they wanted $36 for the motor... plus i have to pick it up 20 miles away from me. I tried to call Homedepot and luckily they special ordered it for me. costed me $28 and I get to pick it up at my nearest Homedepot branch.


  4. #4
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    The hardest part was taking the pinion gears off the Dewalt.... i went through all sorts of power tool service center asking them if they have a special puller for the pinion... but man... almost all of them don't do such things.... plus if they will try it... it's like $75 an hour labor. so forget it.. i'm doing it myself.

    During these times... i decided to sell the tires which were LOSI XTT for 1/8 buggies because I wanted something bigger and more monster truck looking like the MOAB XLs. Took the tires out and posted them for sale. So the beadlocks were sitting here for a couple of weeks... and my erevo is on it's chassis... for roughly 2 weeks... imagine it's been almost a month and i haven't even ran this thing.
    Last edited by jeff_o; 03-06-2009 at 11:56 PM.

  5. #5
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    oh no... the digicam has no CF.... i'll just continue some other day once i get my roommate's CF back lol

  6. #6
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    if you willing on spending a little more get rpm true track rear suspension arms and a set for front arms. as well as some aluminum stearing knuckles.

    heres some pics of mine if you want some ideas

    -rpm arms all around (true tracks included)

    - dewalt motor (you allready got that down)

    -2.4 spektrum radio ( bought it for my rusty a while back

    -traxxas aluminum push rods and tubes

    -traxxas sway bars (REALLY RECOMMENDED i mostly bash and they give you a world of control)

    -balloons over the shock shafts to slow down wear of the shock shafts and they just look cool

    -mod1 spur gear and pinion for durability and reliability. bigger teeth can only be better.

    - traxxas 17mm adapters

    - made my motor mount silver because i cant stand the look of scratched blue/ red aluminum ( as seen in the last pic











    and nothing has broken in a very long time. (knocks on wood)

    i hope this helps you
    -Rustler VXL widefront
    -E-REVO
    -RC18

  7. #7
    RC Champion
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    Is it the build thread of rabbithazen or jeff_o ?

    Nice E-Revos ! Can't wait for the next pics

  8. #8
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    im was just tring to help him out because thats what i geared mine towards is durability.
    -Rustler VXL widefront
    -E-REVO
    -RC18

  9. #9
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    lol. it's ok can't wait to get the CF... i'll take more pics of the later updates

  10. #10
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    rabbit, what are them things inside of your shocks? :/
    E-revo for sale. PM me for more info.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    They are rubber shock boots...some people use balloons, but they make actual shock boots to cover the shafts.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  12. #12
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    and they are just to keep the shock shaft from getting dirty? i have shock socks, was wondering what them were and if i should use them instead or something.
    E-revo for sale. PM me for more info.

  13. #13
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    i used the ballonas over my shock shafts to stop any dirt and water from prematurely wearing my shock shafts. i have shock socks on my rustler but dirt and can still make its way through fabric

    -Rustler VXL widefront
    -E-REVO
    -RC18

  14. #14
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    so do you prefer one or the other? will i be fine with my socks or do you think the boots are better.
    E-revo for sale. PM me for more info.

  15. #15
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    Particles fine enough to get through the shock socks will find a way in the end of rubber boots too. I like the socks because they keep the whole shock clean, not just the shaft. And I think I would worry about moisture trapped inside the rubber boots, though I guess these shafts probably don't oxidize easily.
    E-Revo MMM 2200 "The Missile"
    VXL FLM Rustler

  16. #16
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    yea good point man, and the particles that do make it through and around my socks will be so fine that i doubt it would hurt them that much... I think ill just stick with my socks.

    What if I used both?
    E-revo for sale. PM me for more info.

  17. #17
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    What if I used both?
    Overkill.

    Nice build you have going Jeff-O

    -Brett
    4wd Sportmaxx 3.3
    E-Revo - Mamba Monster - Neu 4s

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    The boots are to protect the shafts, nothing else. Smooth shocks depend on smooth shafts, and the boots keep debris from damaging the shafts. They also keep the shafts clean, protecting the seals for a longer-lasting shock with no leaks. I prefer boots over shock-socks.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  19. #19
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    i would have to say that i perfer the boots over the socks because:

    1.the socks get dirty easy/ the boots are rubber making them dirt resistant
    2.i put a little bit grease in the end of the boot to stop dirt and water and the top half of the boot is so tight on the shaft nothings getting in.
    3. i just think boots make a better seal for the shafts.

    but the socks can add aesthetic appeal and also help protect the shafts as well just not as well
    -Rustler VXL widefront
    -E-REVO
    -RC18

  20. #20
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    jeff - more pics

    Been a long time since i posted here. Hump Daddy is taking a breather these days since I'm working on a top secret project... When Jeff gets his lipos, i'll definitely be back. And dude, we need to get vids of our babies when you get ur lipos. Gotta try that place near Florham park...

  21. #21
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    ok thanks to jacko i got his CF back oh man i dunno when will i get my lipos... it's close to -200 in stock already!

    To continue with my build... as i was saying, the hardest part was taking the pinion gear off the dewalt. i drilled... grind until the dremel went dead and i have to recharge it... and i fell asleep. when i woke up.. i continued drilling. I was probably not fully awake yet... and my hands slipped.... i drilled my left thumb *ouch*.

    I used a cutting disk and a metal grinding bit. But i find the cutting disk more effective. You would have to make the cutting disk smaller in diameter so you don't cut the can while you cut the pinion.


  22. #22
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    For you guys who are going to the same (cut the pinion)... you just have to cut a little more than 1/2 or 2/3 of the front part of the pinion and use a screwdriver to push it out. only 1/2 or 2/3 of the pinion grabs the shaft, the inner 1/2 part does not.


  23. #23
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    I also changed the shock weight to 50, switched to stiffer springs front/back provided in the box and replaced steering limit to maximum steering. Changed rocker arms to tallest settings and finally put Bad Horsie shock boots. At this time Jacko traded his GT tires with my Axial beadlock rims, so I'm still waiting for a set of Maximizer beadlocks for the GT tires. For the meantime I'm borrowing his rims.

    Pic w/o body


    Pic w body

  24. #24
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    i'm parting out with the GT tires only because i'm getting a moab xl for something else

  25. #25
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    where can i find some shock boots you guys are suggesting to use?
    E-revo for sale. PM me for more info.

  26. #26
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    badhorsie.com

  27. #27
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    badhorsie is the shock socks, im looking for someone selling the boots that are good.
    E-revo for sale. PM me for more info.

  28. #28
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    go to the dollar store and buy some of those long clown balloons thats all it is. then cut them to size
    -Rustler VXL widefront
    -E-REVO
    -RC18

  29. #29
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    mk, so you just take the shock apart, and cover the shaft with the balloon and put it back together? Sounds kinda easy, pics would be very helpful for me and others interested in doing this. If you have any pics that is ig.
    EDIT: or the pics you posted above zoomed in a lot closer would be nice as well if you dont want to take new ones. I think i see how you do it though
    E-revo for sale. PM me for more info.

  30. #30
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    these are the two best pics i have



    -Rustler VXL widefront
    -E-REVO
    -RC18

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    You don't take the shock apart, really, just remove the lower cup and the spring...put the balloon over the bottom of the shock, then over the lower shock-end, install spring and put the lower cup over the boot to hold it onto the shock-end.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  32. #32
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    exactly
    -Rustler VXL widefront
    -E-REVO
    -RC18

  33. #33
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    Your motor has replacement brushes too. Anyway the upgrades look great. How does the one Dewalt motor do compared to the 2 stock Titans??
    Stampede
    Started life as XL-1 then XL-5 now a VXL

  34. #34
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    ok so i was having interference problems running my dewalt... but after carefully looking... 1 cap's solder was broken and i soldered them some more and installed the 3rd cap and interference went away

    i ran the dewalt on grass on a 3300nimh with 18/68 gearing. temps were good, the motor is less than 100F and ESC is around 115F. batts are the problem. the non bec side got really hot specially 1 cell... probably a bad cell reaching 160F.

  35. #35
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    hey guys... i noticed that the front arms are damper than the rear. even if i put 50wt on both F/R shocks... i played around the F/R arms swinging them up and down... and i just noticed the front moves slower than the rear. are you guys getting this?

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Check your shock pistons...the fronts may have smaller pistons than the rears. Smaller means fewer holes in the piston.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  37. #37
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    i checked my pistons and you're right... the fronts should have bigger holes (#1) and rears have smaller (#2) and i din't pay attention to i switched them backwards.

    after switching them back to their proper place the damping is now fine.

    I did a test run today and man.... the DEWALT 12V + 2S2P lipo is like heaven!!! i feel like i'm running brushless on a brushed motor.... did speed runs on 18-68 gearing and motor temps wasn't even 90. esc was just like 110.

    the sound was awesome too... really sounded like a brushless motor.... pulls wheelies while on the run!

  38. #38
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    has anyone tried to extend their wing more upwards? Here is somewhat my final build and at first i wasn't planning to put the wing but on 2nd thought.. it'll add more protection at the rear specially during rolls.

    I just placed the body on top of it for now because i'm still waiting for my summit posts to arrive. I'm mounting the body higher because it'll rub the fenders.. but the wing stands in the way.



    the lowered version doesn't seem to look good... and i know it'll rub to the fenders.. but i just took the pics as well.


    rear shot


    now comes the wing....



  39. #39
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    That looks great!
    I keep looking at my Proline Slash body, and thinking about sticking it on my Revo.
    Just dont want to have to hack it to death for everything to clear well :-/

    ~John

  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Dude, that looks awesome!!!

    Oh, and I replied to your thread about raising your wing.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

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