So I did the Jato conversion today and took some pictures for anyone who was confused about how to do this.
Here are the stock shafts:
Here is the part you need:
Step 1: Remove the whole driveshaft from the truck:
Here is the old and new side by side:
Step 2: Remove the Yokes and Stub Axles:
Step 3: Find your 2.5mm drill bit and drill out the holes on the yokes and stub axles:
Here is the side by side of one drilled out, and one stock:
Step 4: Reassemble the yokes and stub axles onto the Jato shaft:
Step 5: You're done!
Last edited by SilverPony2001; 07-22-2008 at 07:29 PM.
I wonder though how the stub axles, and yokes will hold up after being drilled out...
My Pede http://www.youtube.com/polishdog69
Thanks for posting this, you convinced my to get out my drill and install those Jato shafts I had put off for so long. I found an american units bit that made the perfect size hole, even though I don't have any metric bits. I would think that, even though you're drilling a tiny bit of plastic out of the yoke and stub axle, if you're using VXL-spec parts it should hold up far better because Jato u-joint pins are thicker and can spread the torque over more area.
You need to ditch that RRP pinion and get a losi pinion so you have full spur gear coverage.
I tried being reasonable, I didn't like it.
what if you have the steel traxxas yokes??can you do this if you have those
vxlrstlr: if you have the steel output yokes and want to do the conversion, you will need to keep the u-joints from the steel yokes (since they can't be removed) and simply attach the Jato shafts to them. That will leave quite a bit of slop at that joint, so you're better off going with VXL yokes which can be drilled out for the larger u-joint.
I've already done the mod (and my mamba on a 3s killed it lol) but great job!
I WILL spank a nitro any day...guaranteed. :)
You can use a filler like I did to fix the slop. Ill take some pics this weekend... Works good...Originally Posted by kavvika
BMW E21 323i.. My baby.
Can you tell me what the advantage of this mod is over stock?
If it ain't broken... your not having any fun.
More splines to transfer the torque to the wheels: 8 vs. 4.
Larger u-joint pins.
Rubber seal to prevent dirt from getting in between the two halves and wearing the splines, causing slop.
FixedOriginally Posted by kavvika
BMW E21 323i.. My baby.
will the jato driveshafts work on the flm extended rear arms?
im loving the carbide drill bits.
How about the stub axle? Is there a mod for them or do you just keep some in stock?
so it looks cool' Thanks for the tidbit! "that's the bottom line"!Originally Posted by Rusty XL-5
that's what i wanna know !