Not that kind of stripping - you pre-verts..
Maybe it's just me, but some of the screws just seems to strip out their holes very easily. It seems like even if I try to apply a light hand I get to the bottom and the screw keeps on turning...
This has happened on the rear shock tower, tranny case and a couple of other spots. anyone else?
I have the same problem in the same spots??
I think whatever type of plastic that Traxxas uses doesn't hold threads well. It's very easy to overtighten a screw and it just spins. I use threadlocker on everything now.
my trans case and wheelie bar had pree stripped screw holes from the factory.... The reason why they strip out so easy is because traxxas now uses allen hex screws and the threads are finer than the stock old philips head screws they used to use and the old screws had courser threads and the old screws are thicker than the new ones.... that's why the hex screws strip out the holes in the plastic.....I think they are worse than the old screws that are in my bandit!!! Replace it with a old screw and it will solve the stripping problem!
put some CA glue on em and put them back in, that helps to hold em in
auto 5, great guy to deal with
I replaced all hex hardware with philllips off my XL5. I use a torque-controlled drill to take apart my truck..........havent had any problems, and it faster than a screw driver!
NOBAMA '08 Welcome to the Greatest Dprsn.
How about a link for that cool drill?
What screws would work good for the trany case and other spots?
I noticed my bottom spur gear cover is toast already, the glue trick will not work well in a spot which i open every other day.
EREVOs, Slashes, 1/16 Slash, EMAXX, VXL Villain
You use thread lock on plastic?Originally Posted by WrathchildDrills will wear the plastic out faster, too. When using them, screws become warm due to the speed at which they are unscrewed. This weakens the threads. I would recommend just using hand tools.Originally Posted by Seattle Slew
"Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle
When I have to. It's not a great solution but on something that I need to remove frequently it's the best option I know of. Several of the screws on the slash stripped their mounts the first time I removed them. I'm not sure that CA glue is a great solution as it melts plastic some to form the bond. I imagine after a few times it would make the part unusable.Originally Posted by cooleocool
Cooleocool - something like this Milwaukee electric SHOULD be fine as it runs at 200/600 rpm and has a torque clutch.
But I think in this case, with these screws you are right in going by hand. Do you think they use hand tools though in the factory? no way, and I bet that some of my problem IS that they came stripped - like SweetZ says.
I'd like to see the older type of screws you guys are using too.
TRAXXAS - Turn down the torque in the factory!
Isn't the plastic the same stuff used in the rusler and bandit? Don't they have hex hardware?
Get your vote on.
The VXLs use he hex hardware, the XL5 models used phillips. I didn't really have as many issues with my VXL but then I went to RPM arms from the start. I think it may be a production issue with the Slash. As we've seen, there is some inconsistencies on stickers that were applied from the factory, maybe they were pushing a bit hard to get the original supply done?