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  1. #41
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    Gee! That's a purdy lookin' 3.3 you got there!


  2. #42
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    Hi Burger,
    Ya right,Not needed.But half the stuff on my ride is not (Really) neccessary.The piston kit was the cheapest single part of my shock setup.Only $7.

    I don't believe that because I choose not to race,I should be limited to having a bone stock Revo.Bashers also will benifit from performance parts.

    Thanks Leanit,
    There is quite a few hours in it so far.I appreciate ya kind words.

    Super RC,
    Purdy,LOL .Glad ya like it.Thanks.

    Supp TRX33,
    Here ya go,Just for you.

    Got both the front and rear ends put together and mounted to the chassis.I have swapped out some stock parts here and added :- Traxxas aluminium toe links,The traxxas heavy duty servo saver spring,And a Proline single steering arm.Every standard screw was removed,And replaced with a stainless duplicate.

    The rear end roll centre was lowered to attain a little more front end bite,And the caster was adjusted to the maximum 15 degrees.All the appropriate hollow ball adjustments were made to compensate for these changes.

    A few pics ta check out.









    Cheers. 3.3
    TRAXXAS...................Should be :- KIXXAS.

  3. #43
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    Are you going to get the RPM Dyable control arms and dye them or is that too much red? So fary it looks great! That color looks nice on a Revo, and it's nice to see a Revo that isn't the same as everyone elses'.

  4. #44
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Jeez that looks good, wanna trade?
    My sig is way extra more better than yours!

  5. #45
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    Trx33,
    It was indeed the brand of dye I used the first time that caused the failure to produce the desired result.My Rit arrived,And I used the previously mentioned method,And it worked a treat.

    Spy,
    Thanks for ya kind words.I'm gonna stick with the factory arms,As they are (In black).I think red arms,As you mention,Would be a bit too much for me.I also find it refreshing to see different/Custom rides.I also enjoy the building just as much as the bashing.

    There are a few people who have inspired my project,Who will be mentioned latter.

    Hi Burger,
    Thanks man.She's comin along nicely.I'm flattered by ya offer,But I think this one'll be stayin in my garage.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I've been dyin ta bring those intrested in my build this update.....Litterally.....LOL.....

    After two frustratingly unsuccessfull attempts at dyeing some parts ,I got some Rit dye in from the U.S. for my last ditch effort.It worked unreal.I got a nice deep black on both my plastic parts,And rubber parts.Parts dyed are :- Rocker arms (Progressive #2),Brake linkage parts,Pivot ball boots,Pivot ball dust caps,Carby boot,And my throttle servo horn.

    The throttle servo horn is from the Traxxas aftermarket horn kit,And from the packet it is grey.I'll be running Hitec servo's for steering and throttle applications.

    I'm finally happy with the results.....RIT IS THE SH!T.....




    Also done some hackin,Choppin,And sandin,On a couple other pieces.
    I have changed these parts to suit my throttle setup,And for bashin.

    These two parts from the Platinum have had pieces removed that won't be neccassary on this ride.

    I don't need a transponder at the sk8 park or BMX track,So the mount was removed with the dremel,And sanded back in an attempt to keep a nice factory type finish.This is also the reason I cut of the mounting lug on the front end of the chassis before it went in for anodizing.

    And on the throttle servo mount,I cut off and sanded back the mount for the throttle return spring.I'm gonna run an alternative,So this would also have only been untidy lookin dead weight.

    The Traxxas factory fit of these two items is outstanding.
    Check em out after a little moddin 3.3 style.....





    Cheers 3.3
    TRAXXAS...................Should be :- KIXXAS.

  6. #46
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    Just a quick update,
    My Traxxas aluminium rocker posts were inserted today.These badboys are heaps lighter than the standard steel versions.

    A quick tip for anyone intrested :- When replacing your rocker posts,It helps to add a small dab of grease to the thread before you screw them in.It made insertion smooth and easy.






    I'll be puttin my rockers,Suspension,And pushrods on her next.

    Cheers. 3.3
    TRAXXAS...................Should be :- KIXXAS.

  7. #47
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    Lookin' good 3.3 , grease the thread good idea, I'm also going the aluminium posts but after the hassle of getting the rocker screws out I'm going set-screw and locknut instead of the screw. You forgot to dye your axle boots mate j/k cya
    Brad

  8. #48
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    I've heard those aluminum rocker posts break easily, might be worth the extra weight to keep the aluminum one. Installation is a breeze with a 5/16s wrench.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bradus
    Lookin' good 3.3 , grease the thread good idea, I'm also going the aluminium posts but after the hassle of getting the rocker screws out I'm going set-screw and locknut instead of the screw. You forgot to dye your axle boots mate j/k cya
    no need to dye use a sharpie
    -Super hopped MERV
    -Lidz by Skrizz

  10. #50
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Coming along real nice 3.3!!!My chassis and front brace should be here by this weekend,I went with an anodized red also.Looking forward to seeing the final pics,nice job man!!!!!!
    About 50mph,Over $1000,very far,Nitro,No you cant!

  11. #51
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    How long till you can beat the heck out of it?
    My sig is way extra more better than yours!

  12. #52
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    Lol, thats what i was thinking cheezburger.

  13. #53
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    Hi Bradus,
    Thanks mate,Gonna do the drive shaft boots with a sharpie.Atomic Punk gave me the good oil on this earlier in the thread.It's definantly on my to do list,But it'll probably be one of the last things to get done.

    G'day Spy,
    I have not yet heard of the alloy rocker posts failing.I guess only time will tell with driving time,And the abuse I subject them to.If they do break,I'll go back to running the steel versions.

    On the rocker post installation,I used a deep tube socket,Then an open ended spanner to do the final nip up.It does indeed make it easier with the right tools,But I found the application of a tiny ammount of grease,Made it even easier again.

    Hi Jag,
    Thanks mate.Finding time is the hardest part for me at the moment.Just doin little by little when I can,And enjoyin every minute of it.

    Burger & Kid,
    That time will come when it's finished,As mentioned above,Time is hard for me to find at the moment.But I'm in no rush.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    O.K. Got my suspension all mounted up,And I am very pleased with both the performance/Smoooooooooothness,And also the aestetic aspect.

    I ditched the aftermarket alloy suspension mounts I was running,And went back to the plastic original parts.They are quite a bit lighter.

    The steel factory pushrods were replaced with the Traxxas red alloy tubular versions,And all fixings were replaced once again with stainless steel ones.

    My rockers (P2's) as mentioned in a previous post were dyed black,And a drop of blue threadlock was used on the 4 x 6mm rocker post screw.All push rods are in the outter holes on the lower arms (Lowest ride height setting)

    Also took a quick couple of snaps of the dyed pivot ball dust boots and caps.












    MMMMM 3.3 likey.
    TRAXXAS...................Should be :- KIXXAS.

  14. #54
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    It looks awesome and I'm glad the dye worked out. I may just have to have some of my parts anodized now...

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3.3
    Trx33,

    After two frustratingly unsuccessfull attempts at dyeing some parts ,I got some Rit dye in from the U.S. for my last ditch effort.It worked unreal.
    Which dye did you use.. the powder or the liquid?
    Reborn Nitrohaulic with a 5308

  16. #56
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    Trx33,
    Thanks dude,There was a surprising amount of awsome colours available at my local anodizers when I went to get mine done.Red was my plan before I got there,And I stuck to it.

    .....I do have plans for another two builds in the future though.....

    Hi Tristate,
    On my first two attempts,I used a brand called :- Dylon.It was in a powdered form.I had no joy what so ever.

    I then used :- Rit in a liquid form,And it worked perfectly first time.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Just a quicky.....While waiting for parts,I decided to trim down my roll hoop.I stumbled across pics of this mod here on the forum a while ago.

    I forget the member's name who deserves the credit for this mod.

    It took a bit of time to get it just right.But for me,The clean straight lines are worth that little extra effort.

    I used digital calipers for marking out,And to measure the finish.4mm either side of the moulded fuel line clamps is an ideal amount of material to leave on.Also when viewed from the side,You can see where I tapered (The top edge) of the small spine that runs down the back from top to bottom.Did it just for once again,A cleaner look.

    The excess material was cut off with my dremel,And then finished by hand sanding.

    It's these little time consuming minor details,That I really enjoy doing.




    Just another part off the to do list.

    Cheers. 3.3
    TRAXXAS...................Should be :- KIXXAS.

  17. #57
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    3.3, the truck is really looking nice. You put some nice time in on this. Just as a suggestion and knowing you are by this part but those aluminum rocker posts will not last on a 3.3. You might look in to the Lunsforgd Ti rockers, they are almost as light and could be capped off with a red anod nylock nut to match your theme. Looks good.
    2009 Florida State Monster Truck Champion
    RBMods

  18. #58
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    G'day PNT,
    Unsullied Spy has also put a question mark over the durability of the alloy rocker posts.

    I do appreciate any imput on my build,Both positive and negative.I also appreciate suggestive comments.

    As mentioned above,I will run them (The alloys) untill they fail.But instead of going back to the steel versions,I'll definantly be getting some of those Lunsford titanium models.Just checked em out at the Lunsford site,And they look sweeeeet.Thanks very much for the info.A red 4mm nylock nut would indeed cap em off.....Thanks for the comments too.Glad ya like her.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Today I got my mill screwed down.I only changed a few small bits and pieces here,Nothing major.

    All screws were swapped out to stainless with the exception of the two that allow motor adjustment for gearing.I could not remove the flat and spring washers on these two fastners without damaging them too much,So I left them stock.I did however manage to get the four spring and flat washers off the four motor mount screws that fix from beneath,And the four from above.These were then transfered to stainless screws.

    All 10 mounting screws were hit with blue locktite upon installation.

    Scince I will not be running a full roll hoop,A 12 x 4mm BCS and 4mm nylock nut and washer was used on the left side were the hoop would normally mount through the chassis and motor mount brace.

    I finally got that throttle boot that was buggin me so bad sorted out too.

    The mounting went smoothly.....Check it.....







    Cheers 3.3
    TRAXXAS...................Should be :- KIXXAS.

  19. #59
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    Everything looks good except those blue boots on the drive shafts. You can buy just the boots separately, so you can dye them. Just get some new ones and dye them, then rip the old ones off and glue the new ones on.

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3.3
    H.

    Just need to find a black throttle boot somewhere.
    sharpie!

  21. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by phoneix-rising
    sharpie!
    He already got the throttle boot figured out. He dyed them with Rit Dye along with his rockers and other parts.

  22. #62
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    I have to say, it's pretty cool to see all the effort put into new anodizing, for a complete color change, but in my opinion, it's just a little to red. It still looks nice, though.
    You have a rodent infestation. Shall I terminate?

  23. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelby VNT
    I have to say, it's pretty cool to see all the effort put into new anodizing, for a complete color change, but in my opinion, it's just a little to red. It still looks nice, though.

    I have to say that this is one of, if not the nicest looking stock Revo builds I have seen. It looks like there is great attention paid to every detail. I can't wait to see this thing complete.
    _
    /_/._ _ _
    / //_ /_ /_/

  24. #64
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    Hi there Trx,
    I'm gonna do the boots with a sharpie later on.Just don't have one at the moment.

    G'day Shelby,
    Thanks for ya thoughts and comments.Funny thing is the anodizing is no effort appart from stripping the truck,As I paid someone else to do it (The anodizing).

    I'm sure if anyone here can appreciate that, :- It's the filing,Sanding,And the manipulation of parts to get them to the exact shape and performance level you want,Is what takes time and effort to achieve,It's you.I'm a big fan of your build,And the documentation of it.

    I was also worried about it being too red,But there is the same amount of colour on the truck as when it came from the factory (Toe links and push rods excluded),Only now it's different hue.

    The actual colour of my parts is not showing true on my monitor.It's a beautiful deep,Uniform red.I think it's the location,And time that which my pics are being taken,That is having an effect on them.I'll try and get some outdoor,Daylight shots soon.

    Atomic,
    Thanks alot mate.....You kind comments are humbling.....It's words like these that make the photography and typing seem worth while.It's nice to know other people are enjoying it as well as me.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    The box...
    A few small tweaks here.All screws,And the 3 and 5mm nylock nuts were once again replaced with stainless versions.And as perviously documented,A one way conversion has already been done.

    My dyed brake linkage parts have been added,And when I found I had missed the blue bung that goes in on the OWC on my dyeing episode,It too was dropped into the pot to be blacked out.

    I have added the front vented disc from the Platinum,And I cut back some springs,And tweaked the tops and bottoms so they have a nice flat surface to push outward against the pads.(Replicating the finish of a shock spring)

    I also changed the 38 tooth spur to a 40.

    There will be no centre diff.....As I enjoy a bit of hang time.







    Regards. 3.3
    TRAXXAS...................Should be :- KIXXAS.

  25. #65
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    You have inspired me to do a colour change on one of my traxxas vehicles....which one will it be?

    I am still wondering if the anodizing inside the head will hurt anything....

    I don't really have anything to add to this thread, but I was just looking through and admiring it again. Free bump I guess. Everyone needs to see this.

  26. #66
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    G'day Trx,
    Hope ya post up some pics of ya build if ya decide to do a new colour scheme.I enjoy seeing people "Puttin their flavour on it",And changin it up a bit.

    Thankyou also for your compliments.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Today I got my servos,Transmission,Tank mount,And the fuel line holder mounted.

    Steering :- The Hitec HS-5955TG was chosen to handle this application,The huge amount of torque it yields makes it the perfect choice for a single servo conversion.

    I've fitted a Dynamite 1/2" aluminium horn in black.I went with black in case I decide to use this servo in another build.Being black it won't look out of place,As it blends in with the servo nicely.This arm will give the servo more throw than the stock arm does.And it won't flex.

    I pulled a Lunsford Punsiher titanium turnbuckle from my old RC10 to link the Dynamite horn,And the Proline arm.It turned out to be a sweet fit.

    All screws were again swapped to stainless,And the standard button cap style used for mounting were changed in favour of the cap style screw.Thread lock was used on the two screws securing the Punisher.

    I have chosen not to run a servo guard.





    Throttle and brake :- Hitec again,This time it's the HS-965MG.I think this servo has a nice combination of torque and speed,For a strong brake,And a quick throttle response.

    I have used the Traxxas aftermarket servo horn kit to attain the Hitec horn.I then dyed it black before fitting.I also chose to use the factory Platinum servo mounting screws.These badboys are sweet.No need for washers with their large heads,And they lock down the servo perfectly.I did use stainless for fixing the mount to the chassis though.Also used stainless to button down the tranny,Fuel line holder,Air filter hanger wire,Servo horns,And tank mount.

    My throttle linkage is currently receiving some attention,And will be mounted soon.






    Cheers. 3.3
    TRAXXAS...................Should be :- KIXXAS.

  27. #67
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I have been watching this build since you started. You are a very **** person and pay very close attention to detail. It's quite possible that you might have a mild case of "OCD" Obsessive compulsive Disorder!.... J/K Dude!!!! Awesome work man!!!! I love it!!


    Quick question? Correct me if im wrong but it looks like a b/b header you used with the spring and all.... What did you go with?

  28. #68
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    The build looks really good !
    Great attention to detail . One quick question , what screw kit are you using ?

  29. #69
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    Gday again bro, this thing is coming together very f@#$in nicely man. Really like all your little custom touches. Ended up take my stuff to a local anodiser, it's costing me $70 to get all my stuff done, hopefully I get them back tomorrow. I'll show'em off when I do. I got the PE header also, seems to point down more the the old one, from looking at your pix. What do you think? cya

  30. #70
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    Coming along very nice
    Reborn Nitrohaulic with a 5308

  31. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3.3
    G'day Shelby,
    Thanks for ya thoughts and comments.Funny thing is the anodizing is no effort appart from stripping the truck,As I paid someone else to do it (The anodizing).

    I'm sure if anyone here can appreciate that, :- It's the filing,Sanding,And the manipulation of parts to get them to the exact shape and performance level you want,Is what takes time and effort to achieve,It's you.I'm a big fan of your build,And the documentation of it.

    I was also worried about it being too red,But there is the same amount of colour on the truck as when it came from the factory (Toe links and push rods excluded),Only now it's different hue.

    The actual colour of my parts is not showing true on my monitor.It's a beautiful deep,Uniform red.I think it's the location,And time that which my pics are being taken,That is having an effect on them.I'll try and get some outdoor,Daylight shots soon.

    3.3
    Thank you. I appreciate the reply, and your comments. Like you, even if a model is taken down a different path to suit it's builder, I can really understand the reason, time, money, and effort put forth to make it happen. The Revo looks good, and it's different. I appreciate all projects that are done in great detail. It's really no different then 1:1 cars. Some people get their undies in a knot because a certain car doesn't have a V-8 in it, and so it is seen as junk. I'm not that way. I appreciate anything built well, with thought, and a good eye to detail.
    You have a rodent infestation. Shall I terminate?

  32. #72
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    I'm an electric guy, but wow. I have never seen anyone be this meticulous with the build of any RC.

    I think I need to get myself some of that dye. As well as take a peek for what businesses are around here... I think there is a place that does powder coating.

    Greg
    E-Revo - IB4200's - Single 700HO - Black Chassis

  33. #73
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    Looking really good with all red. Good work.

  34. #74
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    Got the parts back today. They didn't have yellow so I went with gold instead, the turnbuckles could be better but anyway I think it will look ok.


    cya

  35. #75
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    wow thats gonna look nice when its done
    looking for Revo to E revo conversion parts PM me

  36. #76
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    Not trying to steal your thread man, but getting ready for work I found these in my pack.

  37. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bradus
    Not trying to steal your thread man, but getting ready for work I found these in my pack.
    Start your own thread then

    P.S both these revos are gonna look awesome

  38. #78
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    bradus, you should start your own thread ..This is 3.3's .Im sure he doesnt want your pics on it ..please delete them ..

  39. #79
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    bradus, are you a STEELERS fan? sweet trucks guys.

    Great attention to detail.

  40. #80
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    3.3 you chose the best colour (red)

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